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Think i have found the correct locations. The picture listed in the haynes workshop manual page 1A.10 calls this the filler but it looks to be the drain plug. The filler looks to be located higher up at the back of the gear box. The picture with the drive shaft shows the drain plug 17mm hex in the lower section. Other picture shows the filler plug just sticking out at the rear of the gear box. Will give this a go next weekend if the weather stays dry.

Get new fans with housing?

Update - received my obdeleven today and plugged it in. 3 persistent faults. MAF - understandable as unplugged Fault code 01314 Fault code 01592 Anyone think that either of these could contribute? Could 01314 be due to maf being unplugged?

Hi, I purchased a car soft audi v3 old reader and it has option for resetting and reading airbag codes was only £199 on amazon, something like that might be worth a try

Happy days, thanks for coming back to me, I really appreciate the advice. I will upload comments once i find out 🙂

As you said, the housing is loose so it's likely the fans are hitting it or something else in the vicinity. The solution I would say is obvious.

Good. Your mechanic should have warned you of the potential for failure. Perhaps consider going elsewhere next time.

Welcome Phil, Admitting I don’t know on this model, but logic will obviously point to the filler plug being above the drain plug. Haynes Manuals? - notoriously generic - so don’t always accept all that you read. Might be worth looking at LLL Parts website in the hope they have an exploded view diagram. This bit is of vital importance and should be written in caps:- Always - without exception- make sure you can undo and access the filler plug, before removing the drain plug. Let us know how you get on Phil. Regards, Gareth.

This might help but check the engine code https://r-techperformance.co.uk/axx-bwa-tfsi-k04-turbo-conversion/ Obviously it won't make the power on this website unless you add a whole load of supporting hardware. If you don't change the fuel pump at least change the follower if not already. Same with the PCV will most probably fail with more boost, rocker gaskets often go also. My TT has the KO4 from the standard since it uses the CDL engine. I got compressor surge trying to get past 350BHP so I had to get a better turbo and ditch the stock KO4

Hi. I'm looking to change the gear / transmission oil on an A3 1.6 petrol 2010. I removed the front passenger wheel and took a few pictures but not sure where in earth the hex drain plug is... the haynes manual says the bottom hex bolt is the refill overflow one? The one over to the right

Hi all When I go and switch the ac on, both fans come on (which I believe is normal), but the housing seems loose and the whole car shakes when they're running. I've turned them by hand and bearings are smooth and they're not loose, apart from the slight cushioning that, again, I think is normal, when I press them towards the radiator. Please see video of them running. Thanks! 20250531_180006.mp4

Ok sound. I messaged him and showed him the U Joint. He said that’s the one he pushed. So I’m just gonna order a new Audi immediate steering shaft and replace. This should hopefully fix it.

If the joint your mechanic moved was the universal joint that I mentioned and if it is still loose, then your car is in danger of suddenly losing its steering. Please get it repaired immediately.

Hi cliff, thanks for the reply bud. I forgot to mention I took my car to a mechanic and he honestly fixed it on the spot, temporarily though. Must’ve taken him 1 minute to do. I asked what he done, he said there’s a ball bearing/joint/something down there. He said he pulled it down. He either pulled it down or pulled it up. I honestly can’t remember. This fixed the problem that day. I took the car home parked it up next day went to work and problem came back and I think it came back worse? Might be in my head. But I hope this information helps. I will take ur reply into consideration and remove the plastic shroud today. And inspect it.

Hi cliff, thanks for the reply bud. I forgot to mention I took my car to a mechanic and he honestly fixed it on the spot, temporarily though. Must’ve taken him 1 minute to do. I asked what he done, he said there’s a ball bearing/joint/something down there. He said he pulled it down. He either pulled it down or pulled it up. I honestly can’t remember. This fixed the problem that day. I took the car home parked it up next day went to work and problem came back and I think it came back worse? Might be in my head. But I hope this information helps. I will take ur reply into consideration and remove the plastic shroud today. And inspect it.

Maybe, but lack of coding can lead to the new battery being damaged by the charging circuits so I still suggest you get it tested.

It's unfortunate that nobody here has been able to help Stuart, but please let us know of progress.

I think this stage im just paranoid about my A6 , I've waited for years to get one as I could never afford one before in my life and I have now finally got the one I wanted " my dream machine " ( a 10 year old a6 I suppose some would say it's not much of a dream ) , but not that I have it im listening out for every knock and click and i find myself actually to nervous to enjoy it , with the fear of a major bill . And the thought of major gearbox damage has me actually sick to my stomach. I think it's time I just drive it and enjoy it , because it is a joy to drive . Thanks

That takes me back 50 years. I must have been mad, but I got away with it.

Thanks - it’s had a new battery 6 months ago but it wasn’t coded. That said it must recognise it’s a new battery as the start/stop is now working

To be honest at this stage I don't think it's a crack , it's showing no sign of oil coming through it , and like I said there is absolutely no sign of oil anywhere i park . Also surly if it was leaking out oil there would be traces of it the whole way along the bottom side of the car , of which there's none . And also the car is driving extremely well surly a crack gearbox would show alot of symptoms. Thanks

Like Magnet, I am not convinced the water pump has anything to do with the symptoms. Before committing to any major expense I suggest you get the battery professionally tested. A failing battery can cause limp mode and false error messages, amongst other problems.

So I think that pin 1 is sending 5v from the ecu to the maf in error. Does anyone agree? Pic attached shows pin 2 as ground. Pin 3 routes to B277 positive connection 1 in wiring harness. Pin 2 should be for maf to to send voltage to pin 22 in ecu, not send 5v to maf sensor. So what feeds pin 22? Anyone understand where in the ecu it can produce the 5v? Or where else in the system 5v could be fed into the ecu which is then going to the maf? It'd be good to know what other wiring I can investigate that could be causing this.

Imperfections in the sand mould can often create surface imperfections in the metal that look like cracks in the casting, or it may actually be a real crack. The only way to be certain is to take it off, clean it thoroughly, and apply a penetrating crack detector dye.

I was initially tempted to point to the universal joint in the steering column, but the sound does not match what I would expect to hear from such a joint. I suggest removing the plastic shrouds around the upper part of the column to see if there is anything out of place there.