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Hi all, I bought this lovely S8 knowing it had an abs pump issue. I purchased a 2nd hand abs pump which had the exact like for like part numbers however, I can't get the thing to code successfully. The old faulty unit can't be read either to copy the codes. Does anyone know how to code the replaced unit to the car? Im happy to pay whatever the price is and I can travel too. Thanks

My 2022 Q5 PHEV will take a charge and will display it has 23 miles on the charge and within 2-3 miles the battery is completely depleted. Any advice on what to do would be appreciated.

My new toy. Stumbled across it whilst at work and after showing interest, the owner offered it to me for a fair price. Anyone happen to know this car?

Thanks for your advice Clifford. It wasn't what I wanted to hear but it is what it is, I guess. I have already been in contact with the two leads you supplied. Any idea what the scrap value of my car is? Kind regards, Colin Dimes.

Please answer the question Cliff asked Tony - distributor has points and condenser or not- ?

So how do I go about testing my coil without removing it.

I'm only on my second Audi but it does seem that water ingress, electrical issues, and a combination of the two are a constant problem whatever the age of the car. It's like owning a 1970's Alfasud but without the rust. Shame as I really love styling and the way they get down the road.

What Clifford said.

The LT current flows from the contact breakers to the coil where it is transformed to HT. That HT current goes from the coil to the centre of the rotor arm in the distributor and thence to the spark plugs.

You are correct Tony.

Welcome aboard mate, and nice looking motor too. And I have the same problem with the sensors, not fun with the sedan, and that's coming from an ex HGV1 driver.

Looks like you've lost a wheel, somewhere on your drive! 😁

The old trick for cleaning the inside of a fuel tank was to throw in a handful of nut (the ones that go on bolts, not the KP variety!) and then shake your moneymaker like your life depended on it, obviously removing anything like fuel sender etc first.

Not quite it's a coil serving the distributor. Oh, I always thought the coil sent the spark and the ditributor passed it to the plugs.

Other way about Tony. It’s the distributor which ‘serves’ the coil.

Oh ok thanks , I took it to him with a clicking when turning left , got it back and the clicking was gone , but now have the single knock when initial acceleration in drive and reverse . So hopefully the 2nd new outer cv joint will fix this .

No, it can knock in the straight ahead position, though it is always worse when turning.

I suppose my mechanic who's working at it 40 years knows more , also he's covering the cost of the replacement cv joint so not going elsewhere , I can just try the outer and if still knocking i have lost nothing, then move onto inner . My question is can the outer cause this knock noise ? I thought it would just be a clicking while turning .

Well done.

So do you trust Mr. Google or do you trust your mechanic? In your position I would go elswhere.

2 litres of oil in 1100 miles is truly extraordinary, and indicates significant wear of the pistons and/or bores. This is confirmed by your new revelation of excessive crankcase pressure, which is likely the cause of the oil loss. A crankcase gasket will not solve this problem. It's just possible that a new crankcase pressure control valve will help, but it's more likely that the engine has reached the end of its life. That will cost many thousands of pounds to sort out so it makes sense to get a firm diagnosis before making a decision on what to do. I suggest you find an independent VAG specialist rather than travelling to an Audi dealer. Here are two I found on an internet search. There are bound to be others. https://www.autohausedinburgh.co.uk/ https://www.hrmotors.co.uk/

update, thanks for the comments, made me go back & start again, it was a faulty plug in nearside quarter panel that was reading live at socket but not in the plug, breaking the circuit. thank you again.

Not quite it's a coil serving the distributor.

He also doesn't want to change the whole driveshaft he says there's no need. His logic is the only thing that was changed before the knock came was outer cv joint , so it's obviously the outer thats the problem . Has he a point or am I being paranoid?

Is it old fashioned enough to have points? If so, check the gap and ensure the contact faces are unburnt. The condensers in such systems were also prone to failure.