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See if you can do a MMI factory reset and then search for the phone. Radio signal and poor reception are normally antenna related. As far as I know the antenna on a cabriolet is built into the rear window, so start looking at broken or damaged connections there. Search LLL parts for more details.

Hi guys I know it not a vw but I have audi a1 66 plate I bought the car last year before I bought the car the left headlight there was an issue which they repaired it was ballast costing 410 after 3 months i had the same warning light come up head light malfunction dipped beam, so scanned it with obd2 nothing came up so we bought a cheap ballast for 25 and it worked then failed after 2 days so as the orginal part was from audi we put that back in the car and it worked perfect which is weird as it had failed it worked fine for 5 months solid and tonight it decides to fail has any one experience this? I replaced the bulb too still same also also done a check on the other headlight to make sure if not electrical but nope that worked perfect it a total mystery...I'm trying to look solutions as I can't think what it could be I mean every post I looked at they said they taken cars to audi and they don't see a problem or they say it the ballast if it the ballast it failed twice the part is under warranty for 2 years and I think if I take it there and they put a new one what saying that won't fail too... If any one can suggest or had this experience and fixed it I would love to know... So here what we done so far Scanned for codes and run test on obd2 No errors Check fuses all fine It has new ballast Check wiring all looks fine New xenon bulb

Just bought a 2006 RS4 cabriolet and I cannot get my phone to link as it cannot find anything to link to in the phones Bluetooth menu. All it says on the car is "Telephone is not available". Also, the reception of the radio is terrible and plagued with interference! Any help in respect of the above would be much appreciated, thank you.

I'd recommend a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. Could be an issue with the cam sensor, lambda sensor, maf sensor.

Thanks for the reply, it seems bad when cold but when warmed up , in S or not it just pulls well for as long as i need it to but sometimes feels a little missfireish? traction control light doesn't flicker and it makes no difference if i turn it off. its not really bad but noticeable, maybe pulling through from say 2k to 6k its a little lumpy but then when its on its at the top end its fine. not sure if it fuel filter? pump? or it is the really bang average tyres it came with? maybe its just an aged v8?

Also check wires within the flexible harness twixt tailgate and body. Favourite place for fractured wires due to opening/closing tailgate over the years.

I did another test, drove a little bit in city to raise the engine temp to 90, parked, checked the radiator fans they were blowing hard, then shut off the AC and the fans stopped as well even though the engine was at 90 and it didn't drop... it seems like only after i drive on highway is doing it.

Check the earth connections.

Hi all, looking for some advice please, I have a 2011 A3 1.8 TFSI sportback, Number plate lights not working, replaced bulbs, still nothing, replaced light holder still not working, the connector which goes to the boot release ( which has the only power supply ) only has one live, there are 4 wires ( brown & white/ brown & grey / 2 brown) should there be 2 lives? any help appreciated. Thanks

i am considering the same. But my actual daily has to go in for repairs. Ill have to see if i can afford an electician.

Were the comments above of any use to you Tony?

It has now. Thanks for the update.

Over 4 weeks now and my latest post hasn't been approved by an admin?

The fans should only run when the temperature is high. I believe there is a module that controls the fans which you may need to renew, but I do not know the details, so a first step would be to get it tested.

Thanks Geraint, If it were mine, I would certainly not be treating the ‘getting it to run better’ as a priority over getting it inspected in relation to the long list of previous advisories, before even driving it quietly. Regards, Gareth. p.s. Did you indeed look at its MOT history before going to look at it?

Report! got a little bit better. Driving “nomaly” like my wife etc don’t feel anything but I can still get it to vibrate in certain speeds and applying brake lightly, I force it to feel it. will do the same procedure on front brake in a couple of weeks and see otherwise change everything because I cannot have the slightest vibration or I go crazy 🤪😂

Hi I'm want to quickly test that fuel is not only reaching each injector but they don't leak and the spray pattern is ok. I did this some years ago but old age and lost info has left me needing my memory jogged 🙄 so after popping each injector and resting them in seperate jars I know I have to pull the relay and use the bridging tool then after raising the flap on the metering head I can time and measure but which relay and what position to put the bridge is where I've gone blank. 91 80 16vq Cheers

To be honest, I didn't get around to doing this. I had new tyres fitted and it did seem a bit better afterwards so don't know if the old ones were out of balance. But the problem was still there. However, recently it seems to have improved. I've been on some long journeys and do, if it's safe, try and brake hard once in a while as I read somewhere that some deposits can build up so it can help clean up the surfaces. Might be worth giving that a go one evening or early bank holiday morning. I find it hard to believe that cleaning up that surface is going to make a difference, especially given how the symptoms for me aren't always consistent with speed/braking power.

So did it today on rear brakes a lot of corrosion and rust especially on left side. Pictures from right side feels a bit better but not 100% Should I do this on front brakes aswell?

Hi, if you talk about the ones mounted on the radiator then yes, they are not swtiching off...also, they always spin when AC is ON. are you saying this is not normal behavior?

George. I suspect the electric cooling fans are not switching off when the engine temperature drops.

Hi all Thanks for the feedback I bought it privately from a Facebook market place post. Was a good general post said he put an MOT for a no show and then reposted it he didn’t mention in the advert about the mileage being 999.999 on the 2017 MOT but said was a typo. I didn’t pay the world for it and runs ok to be fair hasn’t overheated since but havnt drove it hard and gonna work through the jobs to get it running better. I’m going to pop it to a garage up the road for a once over but unsure whether I’m better finding someone who more clued up on Audi TT rather than a standard mechanic. Could do with someone checking the MAF sensor and a few other bits to rule out a faulty sensor or pipe. Also gonna look at replacing the clocks whether that be a reverb or new and recoded. I have also read that the diverters are problematic am I worth changing that out for a dump valve or something a bit more reliable Thanks again Geraint

David. It might help if you gave a more detailed explanation of what you mean by lumpy power delivery, along with conditions at which it happens. Conditions like engine speed, hot or cold, load, service history, state of tyres, etc.

Gary. I have no doubt there is an electronic fault of some kind and therefore the error messages are all meaningless. I suggest you find an auto electrician.