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Avoid going to Halfords, I mean that genuinely. For some things, especially batteries then the main dealer is more reasonable than you think. Likely an AGM battery, and it needs coded to the car. On a B8 model, I’d say it still needs coded to the car. This can be done if you know someone with VCDS.

Hi, do you have any parts left?

Hi, It's almost impossible to hear it when driving, I only really hear it when the car is ticking over, so I'm not sure. It only seems to start about 20 or 30 seconds after I start the car as well, not as soon as the engine starts.

there is one on ebay and he says it does not need coding item no 335930276319 ive heard on here it does.who is right please.regards stephen

That link shows exactly what to do, and yes, it is the front calipers, apparently Audi knows about this. I used a wire brush that is used for cleaning pipe fittings before soldering to get all the crud out of the caliper, and really greased the bushing and where it installs in the caliper to try to keep the water out. The shake/wobble on my car was so severe I thought that people around me would notice!

I went through the same issue, I replaced the front discs twice, pads twice, and still got the vibration. I tried stepping hard on the brakes, my mechanic advised against that, he said the discs would heat distort and make it worse. The only solution was to change the bushings, it is easy to do, you can do it with the calipers on the car, just lift them off the carrier, a bit of manipulation, and then you can get the bushings out. To get them back in I used a clamp, the kind you squeeze with a pistol grip. This is WAY less expensive than changing discs and pads multiple times. The difference in friction between before and after on sliding the pins through the bushings was really significant.

Hey all, I am looking to replace the single din Concert radio unit in my A3 8PA 1.6 to a Pioneer MVH-S420BT, however I’ve seen that I may need to do some wire cutting and buy extra looms? Can somebody explain to me very simply how to do it myself? Or is there a way to buy a plug and play with no extra work? (See attached images for exact unit models and numbers)

Sorry, what is s or D mode?

Evening Cliff, yes I’ve seen that post and I’ve requester all paperwork such as registration document V5 and Certificate of Conformity completely sorted, luckily I’ve only put a deposit down so hopefully they get the paper work sorted before the 7th which is when I said I’ll collect the car. Thanks for taking the time to reply 👌

can someone help me decide which battery would best suit my audi a4 avant estate 2.otdi stop /start as its now showing a few faults,and suspect its the battery.or should i just use halfords and let them decide.thanks stephen

Another member's recent experience with a Japanese import suggests you get all the paperwork such as registration document V5 and Certificate of Conformity completely sorted out by the dealer, to avoid endless confrontations with our bureaucracy yourself.

2000 rpm seems high for changing up, but that depends on how heavy your right foot is, and whether you use S or D mode. It would be as well to have it independently tested before the 30 day option to return it to the dealer expires.

Ill get it plugged in thanks

Hey everyone, picking up this in a couple of weeks Audi A1 1.4 TFSI CoD Sport Sportback STronic Euro 5 Model year: Fuel type: Mileage: 2013 (13) Petrol 23,900 Transmission: Engine size: Colour: Automatic 1.4L Blue This is a Japanese imported car, the KM to MPH and radio frequency have been sorted. The Sat Nav didn’t work, but not worried about this as it’s only for my partner to pop about in local. The car only comes with one key so I will need a spare one, it’s a keyless entry, any recommendations to either garages or members around the Dartford area and an ideas on cost. The picture below is the car I’m getting, been an import there no online passed MOT history anyone no of anyway to find this out ? I suppose once I get the car/ log book I’ll get the colour code, but wondering if anyone knows the colour. Also any recommendations for local (Dartford/Kent ) area for any handy with tools members. If you got this far thanks for reading and looking forward to learning about the A1. /cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down/https://www.a1-forum.co.uk/attachments/img_4743-jpeg.12117/

I recently purchased a Q2 2018 Auto 2.0 diesel. I've never owned/ driven an auto before, so this could be down to expectations but I'm not impressed and believe it could be faulty. My concerns are, first gear it takes a long (longer than my expectations)time to change to second, just over 2000 rpm. When it changes to 2nd the rev counter drops significantly to below 1000 rpm and again builds up ( slowly in my opinion) to over 2000 rpm then changes to 3rd. When in 4th when accelerating there is a "pulsating" I can feel through the wheel,when it goes to five it stops. If I floor it changes in gear are "jerky" and occasionally the engine is juddering before gear change. I've never driven an auto like I said, but I expected drive to be smooth and it's really not, but like I say could be down to me. Any comments, advice on driving etc? It's full history, had gearbox serviced 2 years ago,55k on clock I'm going to call the garage this week and have a word, just don't want to conry across a numpty.,as a guy at work who has an auto Evoque has driven mine and said it seems fine to him. On motorway it's fine at high speed, smooth as anything. Comments welcome.

Ideally scan the car with VCDS to see if it identifies the module that’s not communicating. There’s a Bluetooth module, but I’m guessing. An auto electrician is probable a safe bet with access to diagnostics. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/RS4C/605/0/035/35010 Not sure if this unit is under passenger side seat or in boot given cabriolet could be a different set up given potential for the interior to get a soaking.

Thanks for the tip 👍🏻 but to be clear, it’s for the front calipers not the rear? is it possible to have wobble and vibration from front but not feel it in the steering wheel?

Does it increase with engine speed? First thought was possibly an injector problem but just a guess.

Ethan. Your frequent refilling and short journey make me confidant there has been no damage. No guarantees of course, but I would not be concerned if it was my car.

Fair enough. I can't help sourcing another engine, but I would be wary of a secondhand unit unless it is supplied with a cast iron guarantee. You and your mechanic have probably considered whether repair of the existing engine is feasible. Rattles and misfires could be anything from timing belt to crankshaft position sensor, while low compression on one cylinder could be just a sticking valve. Any of those would be a lot cheaper than another engine. Having metal shavings in the fuel is odd. Rust or grit I could understand, but not shavings. Any idea how that happened?

Hi there, I have a 2019 Audi s3 and recently hit a deer on the road which punctured my driver side auxiliary radiator which made a coolant leak, around 30 seconds to a minute later my coolant light came on and I got out and seen it was leaking. Luckily I had coolant in the car and topped it right up and kept driving again until it came on, when it came on I topped up with water and drove it around a mile to my house without the light coming back on. I looked at the oil temp and coolant temp on the dash which were both still at operating temp. I then switched off the car. These parts are now getting replaced. After researching I see that the driver side auxiliary radiator helps cool the dsg, and am looking for some opinions on if anyone thinks there may be more damage to the engine/gearbox. many thanks, ethan

Thanks Ian, You now need to start testing for voltages and good earths using your multimeter. Regards, Gareth.

Cliff Many thanks for the information, I will have a look to see if this can be disabled. It does not really cause any trouble; I was a bit worried when I first saw the error but I now know that the car will charge with no issue. The MyAudi app for the Q4 is not as good as the app for my previous car A3 8Y, at least I could lock the car if I was away from the vehicle not available in the Q4 version.

Sorry, should of stated. Engine has a rattling noise and misfire & low compression in cyclinder 4.

Kieran. Have you any evidence that the engine is damaged? I ask because if the fuel filter is doing its job, which it appears to be, then the metal should not be getting any further and you only need to consider renewing the fuel pump and pipes.