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I recently purchased a Q2 2018 Auto 2.0 diesel. I've never owned/ driven an auto before, so this could be down to expectations but I'm not impressed and believe it could be faulty. My concerns are, first gear it takes a long (longer than my expectations)time to change to second, just over 2000 rpm. When it changes to 2nd the rev counter drops significantly to below 1000 rpm and again builds up ( slowly in my opinion) to over 2000 rpm then changes to 3rd. When in 4th when accelerating there is a "pulsating" I can feel through the wheel,when it goes to five it stops. If I floor it changes in gear are "jerky" and occasionally the engine is juddering before gear change. I've never driven an auto like I said, but I expected drive to be smooth and it's really not, but like I say could be down to me. Any comments, advice on driving etc? It's full history, had gearbox serviced 2 years ago,55k on clock I'm going to call the garage this week and have a word, just don't want to conry across a numpty.,as a guy at work who has an auto Evoque has driven mine and said it seems fine to him. On motorway it's fine at high speed, smooth as anything. Comments welcome.

Ideally scan the car with VCDS to see if it identifies the module that’s not communicating. There’s a Bluetooth module, but I’m guessing. An auto electrician is probable a safe bet with access to diagnostics. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/RS4C/605/0/035/35010 Not sure if this unit is under passenger side seat or in boot given cabriolet could be a different set up given potential for the interior to get a soaking.

Thanks for the tip 👍🏻 but to be clear, it’s for the front calipers not the rear? is it possible to have wobble and vibration from front but not feel it in the steering wheel?

Does it increase with engine speed? First thought was possibly an injector problem but just a guess.

Ethan. Your frequent refilling and short journey make me confidant there has been no damage. No guarantees of course, but I would not be concerned if it was my car.

Fair enough. I can't help sourcing another engine, but I would be wary of a secondhand unit unless it is supplied with a cast iron guarantee. You and your mechanic have probably considered whether repair of the existing engine is feasible. Rattles and misfires could be anything from timing belt to crankshaft position sensor, while low compression on one cylinder could be just a sticking valve. Any of those would be a lot cheaper than another engine. Having metal shavings in the fuel is odd. Rust or grit I could understand, but not shavings. Any idea how that happened?

Hi there, I have a 2019 Audi s3 and recently hit a deer on the road which punctured my driver side auxiliary radiator which made a coolant leak, around 30 seconds to a minute later my coolant light came on and I got out and seen it was leaking. Luckily I had coolant in the car and topped it right up and kept driving again until it came on, when it came on I topped up with water and drove it around a mile to my house without the light coming back on. I looked at the oil temp and coolant temp on the dash which were both still at operating temp. I then switched off the car. These parts are now getting replaced. After researching I see that the driver side auxiliary radiator helps cool the dsg, and am looking for some opinions on if anyone thinks there may be more damage to the engine/gearbox. many thanks, ethan

Thanks Ian, You now need to start testing for voltages and good earths using your multimeter. Regards, Gareth.

Cliff Many thanks for the information, I will have a look to see if this can be disabled. It does not really cause any trouble; I was a bit worried when I first saw the error but I now know that the car will charge with no issue. The MyAudi app for the Q4 is not as good as the app for my previous car A3 8Y, at least I could lock the car if I was away from the vehicle not available in the Q4 version.

Sorry, should of stated. Engine has a rattling noise and misfire & low compression in cyclinder 4.

Kieran. Have you any evidence that the engine is damaged? I ask because if the fuel filter is doing its job, which it appears to be, then the metal should not be getting any further and you only need to consider renewing the fuel pump and pipes.

My guess is that the car has noticed the lack of charge 20 minutes after plugging in and is sending the report. (It is known as going to sleep, and some cars can not be awakened again until unlocked.) The Hypervolt charge point knows nothing of that and will begin charging at the scheduled time. Communication between charge points and cars is supposed to meet a certain standard, but apparently the standard is open to interpretation, so some odd behaviour is not unexpected. Is there an option to disable this report in the application?

Thanks for the update Tony. Note that the job is not trivial so it would be worth renewing the water pump at the same time while the engine is apart. The pump life is similar to the belt and requires the same effort for access, hence the recommendation to do both at once. We have noted before problems with forum access when done through Google. I don't know the details or whether a solution was found.

Hi guys, due to engine fault (finding metal shavings in fuel filter) I am looking at getting the engine changed on my S3, working alongside my mechanic. Engine in the car is currently 'CJXR' on chasis and 'CJX' on side of engline block. Is there any other engines in an S3, Golf R or Seat Leon Cupra what would fit into mine so i can search for more engines, also any tips or things to look out for? Would i be better off looking for a rebuilt or 2nd lower mileage engine? Audi S3 2014 Quattro DSG

Really interesting, thanks. It could be that mine have loosened so will have a look. Did a quick google and found guide in case it's useful - https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-c7-platform-discussion-194/2015-caliper-guide-pin-bushing-corroded-2974183/

20 minutes after plugging in.

This is the bushing pair for a 2016 A6 TDI

There is something else you need to look at. In Canada, corrosion is a severe issue, and putting a non-sieze compound on the wheel hub and disc face is standard good practice. However, the aluminum of the caliper corrodes around the bushings that the pins slide on, causing restriction to movement, so that the brake caliper does not move freely. This can cause you to chase an issue with the disc, and not find the solution. There are 2 bushings, you can knock them out, clean the caliper holes with a round wire brush, and install new bushings with lots of silicone grease. There is a soft bushing and a harder one, make sure you note which goes where.

Hi, thanks to everybody who took the time to reply to my message, i did try to reply ealier, but for some reason, my log in details wont log me in, i have gone in google browser setting and passwords, and typed this forum in, and found the details, which are the same details on the page to log in, but it just doesn't work, so i have had to log in using google. many thanks to all of you. i am planning or having the belt and the whole of it changed, i was going to DIY.

Yes the squeal is most likely to be the release bearing. Adding that to the high bite point confirms that the clutch is defective and needs to be renewed. Others here may be able to recommend a source for a new clutch.

Is the report 20 minutes after plugging in or 20 minutes after the charge begins?

Hi Cliffcoggin, I was hoping for other replies from A4 owners to say where their clutch biting point is in comparison. I’ve done some research regarding the squealing sound, and it seems like that could be the release bearing, or (worse) something to do with the flywheel surface. I’ve also tried to ascertain whether it is actually slipping yet and it isn’t, as far as I can tell from the normal tests. If it was cheaper then I’d give serious thought to changing it out anyway, but apparently this clutch pack isn’t available from 3rd parties yet so the Audi price is something like £2K5 just for the part. I need to verify that’s still the case.

Hi, I own a Q4 45 bought in late April 25 and to date no real issues except one. I have a Hypervolt charger programmed to charge only at night, I plug up the car and everything is setup for the night charge. But I have noticed that after about 20 minutes, the MyAudi app reports that there is a charging issue and it has failed? I let the charger do its thing overnight and next morning everything is OK, battery charged to 80% and My Audi app reporting correctly. Has anyone else experienced this or Is this a known issue with the MyAudi app? Apart from this really enjoying the car.

Was the reply of any help Gerry?