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Hi mate so Much I appreciate your reply yer my hearing isn’t great but my wife has great hearing see says the same yes bad when the radio/blower motor can drowned the indercator click 👍

Hi All, Finally got myself an Audi after being in awe of their designs for a while now and I thoucht to make an account to engage with like minded people. So found an Audi A3, 2010, 2.0L D S-Line in black for sale on Autotrader, mileage at 88k. Did a bit of research and thought the price was fair. Knocked him down a hundred quid on the phone then decided to travel an hour and a half to see it on father’s day to make the purchase. I checked the MOT history and it all checked out, no major issues and between MOTs and services there was around 6000 miles, it had been driven around the outskirts of london however the sale was from up north. Full service history also, from afar it looks like it’s been well maintained. I arrived at the car and immediately realised they were wheeler dealers. The documents and history stated one owner from new and they had litetally just got the documents through to flip for a profit I assume. Anyway, got them down to £3300 which I thought was good at WBAC at the time was listing it for £3350. On my drive home the engine light came on, I was gutted but checked it right away and it was the EGR, only one fault code. I can stomach this, so took it to a trusted guy I know and he deleted the EGR and DPF ECU functionality and manually scraped out the DPF and welded it back together and put a stage 1 remap on it (Couldn’t resist) , he actually commented that it was a good car and he didn’t notice anything untoward which I was happy to hear. Car drives absolutely lovely now… Ive touched up a good few scratches with a paint pen which matches the cars colour, not perfect but for a £3300 car I don’t want it to be perfect. Anyway… £300 later (completely fine) I realise there’s a dent under the left door in the sill, I have no idea why I didn’t spot this on the day, I can only imagine my mind wasn’t in the right place on the day, dragging my family up north on father’s day. My biggest fear is that it’s structural damage and therefore a MOT failure. I have seen repair kits online that use hot glue and clamps to pull out dents and a few people use it on sills but i’m not sure if that would be effective on an audi of this model. First question, has anyone had this problem and is it worth trying that repair above myself ? I have noticed also the drivers door hinge isn’t perfect, I think it’s worn and I imagine it would be a advisory on a MOT, it’s functional, in addition the door seal is worn and flapping around, are these two things an easy fix ? I see seals for a few quid online. This is a must fix where as the hinge I think can wait. Overall im happy with how the car drives and looks inside, I was grateful of the single fault code, it feels like it’s been mechanically looked after but maybe the first owner sold because of the sill damage maybe they hit a curb or something like that. I worry i’ve bought a bad car and just looking to understand what your thoughts are. I don’t mind the odd scratch around the car. I have had cars in past which trouble my mind so much because of how pristine they are, now my partner has that car but this Audi I just want it to be functional and safe but without looking too bad if you know what I mean. I can get a photo loaded later this evening when i get back to it Edit, car also has 4 brand new michelin tyres and new injectors. I deffo feel like i’m missing part of the puzzle as to why the first owner sold it. Hence why I fear the Sill damage might be structural (HPI check completely clear no crashes or insurance cat )

Hi guys, I have a quick follow-up question to those who have a spare wheel in their Audi A3. Currently I don't have a spare wheel but intend to buy one (125/80 R17). Do you know - if I put such wheel in the boot, is the boot floor going to be on the lower or upper level (lower level meaning that the boot capacity is larger)? I just don't want to buy a spare wheel and realise that I'll be forced to have a limited boot size...

Does anyone know what colour code the OEM springs are for a 2014 A6 C7 S-Line Ultra Saloon? Tried LLL parts but there's so many different colour codes that it nearly impossible to find which ones are right and I'd like to get the right springs that match the spec of the car. Cheers!

I would look between the intake under the scuttle trim and the interior fan motor. That would be a typical location the sensor you are looking for would be situated. Will be a very basic 2 wire sensor. -50 usualy means sensors has failed/disconnected or broken wire. You can use a jumper wire to quickly test for a change in readings to ascertain it’s the sensor needing replaced

Thank you. I’ve exhausted patience with it, I don’t know a lot to do with cars and less with electronics. Will likely be gone for scrap. Appreciate your replies.

In my case the sensor was functioning perfectly and would give good readings, it just wasn't positioned correctly in relation to the wheel and so would throw up errors while the car was being driven.

I checked sensors, and got good readings on OBD11. I’ve seen forum posts from people with similar symptoms/codes - establishing basic settings for the Steering Angle Sensor is a common solution. Ive tried the whole standard calibration procedure (and a few variations) several times to no effect. The steering angle data is constant at 0 (live torque and rate data is good). Since my calibration attempts the steering is now much heavier, engine idle speed increased, and a new fault code 01309 Power Steering Control Module.

Ideally you need someone who can look and understand the live data readings that a good diagnostics can provide and try to get the fault to occur while doing this to see what changes

2 types of auxiliary heating available, common was a electric heater that goes inside heater box behind dash that gives some heat until the diesel engines warm up, other option is a diesel heater that keeps the cabin warm when engine is not running, first type is most common and can’t see why this would cause a aircon problem.

Took the car for a diagnostic check today, not to an Audi garage, and the fault that was displayed was no communication with the auxiliary heater, would this cause a problem with the air conditioning.

Hi guys, recently bought an audi a4 on 110k miles. since buying the car for £2000, i have spent nearly the same in repairs and garage fees. it has not been kind to me. Recently got the car back after having a new timing belt kit, water pump, 2 new camshafts, aux belt - the list goes on. within a week, my EML came on after dropping down a gear and i have loss of power after around 2600 revs, along with a flashing glowplug light. ive been told by a friends "mechanically minded" dad, that the turbo is goosed, but then i have also been told it probably will be the EGR Valve or even a boost pressure sensor! good to mention that there is no smoke on acceleration etc. codes found when plugged in: p0299 05171 confused is not the word. Any help is greatly appreciated as i genuinely think im going to write the car off at this point.

I think you'll need to get this booked into the main dealer as MMI issues are well documented.

Looking on autotrader of 24 models onwards most are not hybrid and all the 204ps ones aren't hybrid.

Please keep us posted on how you get on 🙂

Yep it will do.

Thanks for the detailed report Vytautas.

So i have done the Heater core matrix change and it was not difficult without any mechanical knowledge, however would recommend to have someone to help you as at some stages it looks like you need another pair of hands just for holding a pipe in position or a torch. Started by removing the glove box and some covers on the passenger side: Then you will be able to see the heater core and pipes. After this, remove the media unit and disconnect all cables, all colour coded and different types of connectors, so it will be easy to connect back, but just in case, take a picture for reference. Remove the foam cover And remove the fan, few screws holding it. Remove the sensor in front of the heater matrix, which is blocking the bottom part of it. Place a tub under and start loosening the pipes. After that, push the pipe out of the way and slide the heater core out. Change the core and do everything back in reverse. I have bought new seals and clamps as well for the pipe, don`t need to, but it was just in case. Would at least recommend changing the seals. Was very difficult to alight the pipe and at the same time tighten the screws when putting back together as there was not a lot of room and make sure you put clamps facing the same way as they were due to not blocking the plastic going back in at the bottom of the heater core. Prior to the task, I completely flushed the coolant and changed the coolant tank, which I bought for 30£ as there was a lot of residue sitting at the bottom of it. Job done in April. Any questions I will try to answer when I can. Thanks and good luck,

the hard rise i am used to most of my prev cars have had it , ie /golf tdi, seat frtsi all have a hard ride and road holding superb, but the road noise is excessive with the audi a1 i have bought ,i have had suspension etc all checked over ( no faults i have read that the 16" tyres with low road noise work better than the 17" inch ones , thank you for your reply

John. Do you have question or did you join the forum merely to rant?

Upgraded hybrid turbo from turbo technic or similar. Powerflow for the exhaust. They have suppliers nationally.

It really couldn't be simpler or more straightforward if you've got two keys mate.

Oh super job I’ll try that out later thanks very much appreciate that dave I replaced the key batteries yesterday so I’ll watch the video later thank you

It already has a turbo or do you mean another ? And in regards to parts, do you know anywhere I can get them sourced ?

Good afternoon All. Can anyone tell me if the front o/s wing on the A3 2009 will fit my A3 sports back 2010, please.