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Ayoop folks, we took her out for a run (breakdown services unknowingly on standby!) and put her through her paces on comfort setting, so roundabouts, fast exits from junctions etc and all seems good......I kinda wonder what's going to sulk next, but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. In the meantime, the fuel gauge isn't working and I sometimes can get it to work by folding down the offside rear passenger seat, or placing something heavy on the seat cushion. I wonder if this means a wiring fault as opposed to a failed(ing) sender unit. As I rarely use the performance, 600 miles between refills is what I go with, but the range data would be nice to have again.....thanks again everyone.

Hi guys can anyone suggest a part no. checking site I'm trying to confirm parts for a front brake upgrade on my b3 16vq I've got the twin pot calipers but have been told I also need the hubs from a 90q so got hold of 2 part no DE 895258 & 7 k just want to make sure they're correct before they're refurbed thanks

Unfortunately it hasn’t made any difference whether I start it cold or hot. I’m at ends meet. I was thinking the N80 valve.

Wowsers that's a big saving. Thanks for the write up Dave I'll pin your post so it'll be easier for other q7 owners to find

Think it takes a reading from the gearbox

Wife drove the car today when the alternator not charging message displayed on the dashboard and the steering got heavy. Crank shaft pulley rubber dampener had sheared off throwing the auxiliary belt off. Quite easy to replace it’s held on with 8 multi spine bolts but needs a pry bar and a gentle work on both sides to get the old one off. You need a slightly bigger multi spline socket for the auxiliary belt tensioner to pull it back to get the bolt on and can all be done from above. Quite a common thing to happen so hope this helps somebody in the future. Quite pricey if you try getting one off the internet as euro car parts list it at £339 but if you ring them for a price with a trade account it’s £96.

OK Charlie, Changing auxiliary belt and tensioner was unlikely to cure this issue unless they were at fault. Other possibility:- mixture too weak. Has the cold and/or hot starting varied at all since this noise has occurred? Regards, Gareth.

Didn’t work, changed auxiliary belt and tensioner too and that didn’t work

Ok that's doable cheers

A blast of compressed air should shift any crud/water/fuel in open-ended lines. If you don't have compressed air I don't know what to suggest.

Cheers for that seems straight forward enough to get the tank out, it's metal. Any suggestions on cleaning fuel lines & pipes.

Where have you tried so far? You could try eBay, or the old fashioned way and Google local breakers yards that might have a VAG group vehicle with the same engine.

It’s the fuel pipe quick release connector

What, in words, is this spare part or connection you need? We may be able to suggest a temporary fix until the real thing arrives.

If the fuel tank is steel there's the potential for a lot of rust to have formed in it during 12 years of inactivity. If it is possible, which I do not know, I would want to remove the tank and vigourously slosh a gallon of fuel around before pouring it from the filler neck, then repeat until no more rust is seen. The fuel guage will have to be removed so that is the ideal opportunity to test it. If the tank is plastic there will naturally be no rust, but there may well be condensed water which needs to be removed somehow. I doubt there is a drain plug so maybe a syphon pump down the filler neck would do the job.

Hi anyone got any recommendations on where to get spare parts quick? I need to get a part before next week and the part I need which is 04e133723dg will take 10-14 days to come I don’t actually need the whole of that part just the quick release connection but apparently that’s not something you can buy

It's only condensation and nothing to worry about. Water vapour is formed during combustion which then condenses in contact with cold steel. It will be worse in cold weather and will disappear when the exhaust system is hot.

Hi guys I own a 1991 B3 16v quattro that's not moved for about 12 years and I've decided it's time to get the old girl back on the road, my first point of call is the fuel system so new pump and filter but would like to clear the system of all the old stuff. What would be the best way to go about this before I start on the other fluids. Thanks

Hi all, I've been noticing a really odd water drip when we reverse the A3 onto the drive, its just leaves a small trail. It did it again at the weekend and I go underneath an noticed water leaking from the exhaust, but there was nothing leaking above it and the exhaust isnt rusty or blowing, so no wear/tear holes. I did a quick google search and it transpires this is quite common, however is this normal? I've never seen this before so I am "baffled", pardon the exhaust pun. Have you guys also got this? Is it normal? Should I be concerned or remediate some way? Thanks.

SET OF 4, AUDI A6 S-LINE 18" INCH ALLOY WHEELS & GOOD TYRES. MANUFACTURE PART CODE: 4K0601025D CAME OFF A AN AUDI A6 C8, MAYBE THE ALLROAD QUATTRO ALSO. CODES OFF THE BACK OF THE WHEELS: - E 8Jx18H2. - ET39 - 4K0601025D - DOT - 008868/2013 - AlSi7M - AUSTRIA - AA3 - AU191 K4 WHEELS ARE IN PRETTY NICE CONDITION. ONE WHEEL HAS A MINOR GRAZE ON THE EDGE OF THE SPOKE AND EDGE OF RIM, WHICH HAS BEEN TOUCHED UP SO YOU CAN HARDLY TELL. THERE ARE A COUPLE OF VERY MINOR MARKS ON A COUPLE OF OTHER WHEELS. COME WITH 225/55/18 TYRES. - TWO TYRES HAVE AROUND 5-6 MM TREAD REMAINING - ACCELERA IOTA ST68. - ONE TYRE HAS AROUND 3 MM REMAINING BUT HAS SOME MINOR EDGE WEAR - TOYO PROXES. - ONE TYRES HAS AROUND 3-4 MM TREAD REMAINING - MICHELIN PRIMACY 4 ALL TYRES HOLDING AIR PERFECTLY. ALL WHEELS COME WITH ORIGINAL CENTRE CAPS. NO CRACKS, CANNOT SEE ANY FLATSPOTS OT BUCKLES. CANNOT SEE ANY PREVIOUS WELDS. BOUGHT THESE TO USE AS A WINTER SET ON MY A3 BUT THEY ARE THE WRONG TYRE SIZE. WOULD CONSIDER A PART EX WITH A SET OF 18" A3/S3/S-LINE WHEELS - LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU HAVE. LOCATION, BIRMINGHAM. £295 ono .

No i haven't, i did replaced belt tensioner too

Is this the vacuum operated locking system? I recall a similar forum question a year or two ago to which there was no resolution sadly.

Tony. If the water pump was not replaced at the same time as the belt as it should have been, that could be the source of the noise. As Steve said, get the car to a garage ASAP, because a belt failure is usually sudden and the consequent engine damage can be catastrophic. Opinions on belt duration, even from Audi, have changed over the years. I would stick with the older 70000 miles recommendation for peace of mind. It's an expensive job at £700 but a lot cheaper than a new engine.

Get yourself a cheap multimeter and test whether: [1] power is getting to the motor, [2] the resistor is working, [3] the switch is working, [4] the motor earth connection is not broken.

Is there a belt tensioner that you bypassed with the short belt?