All Activity

Thank you for the reply, much appreciated.

Failure of the instrument cluster is well known. Fortunately they can be repaired by several companies for a few hundred pounds, which is a fraction of the price of a new cluster from Audi. As the RAC said, you need to remove the cluster and post it to the company for repair, and then refit it on return. ECU Testing is one such company which has a good reputation on this forum.

While I am pleased to hear Stansted Audi are accepting responsibility, it does their reputation no good at all to have sold the car in that condition. It discredits the whole Approved Audi scheme.

I can't get my scanner to finish the scan. It is a VAG305 which says it is compatible with the C6. I can't remember if I used it before on this car or an earlier model. Just before it completes the scan I get "linking error". I have tried all the suggested methods to get round the error but still get the same message.

Top suspension mount is what mechanic thinks too, only thing if get that replaced and it’s not that 🤦🏼‍♂️, it’s strange as only happens when slow left turn, but annoying …, it’s sounds similar like a creaking old door opening

Bit long winded, sorry. I was checking out the fuses under the bonnet, I took a few out to check... Then disaster!!!!! I got in car, tried to fire it up, no dash lights at all, started engine, it cut out after a couple of seconds, then tried to fire up again on its own. Radio now not working also!!! Got the RAC out, he says it the instrument cluster (report from RAC below) and needs to be sent off for repair. Has anyone had this issue before?? All I did was pull fuses and put them back in (all fuses looked fine). And can someone please tell me how much it would cost and how or who fixes these things. RAC REPORT: non start. instrument cluster inop. racscan found various communication fault codes stored. checked fuses and relays, all ok. removed instrument cluster to check connections, all ok. suspect possible internal fault with instrument cluster, requires further diag at garage. Any help would really be appreciated.

Welcome Ewan - nice looking car. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Saj, I would suggest it’s well worth getting your mechanic to check them first - rather than just embarking on changing them when they are serviceable. Possible suspect - top suspension mount?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Or the ‘sender’ - often incorporated in the hub casting.

Welcome Chris, I have removed the location of the main dealership you post about, since they are unlikely to access this site and openly explain their involvement. Kind regards, Gareth.

It’s not a question of trust Martin, it a question of actual values and their significance. Appreciating opinions differ, but I wouldn’t be in any hurry to replace an expensive battery before confirming that your alternator output is indeed what it should be. Getting the battery tested would be a progressive move however - subject to it being fully charged at the point of testing.

Thanks, I’ll have to probably get them done by mechanic .

Personally I’d swop out the battery. On 2017 car that’s now 8 years old and these cars are very picky about voltage drop or you get into all sorts of issues. Go AGM and get it coded to car, clear fault codes and go from there.

Nice car, cracking colour and I rate CrossClimate tyres for grip and are hard wearing if this is going to be mile muncher. The B7 forum on AudiSport channel is very active for specialised stuff.

Jack up the car at the front, on both sides, drop the engine under tray, and you can access bolts to ARB. Wire brush first and spray with penetrating release, buzz the bolts off if you have a power driver. You will also need to remove the drop links too. If the drop links have play at balljoints, replace with Meyle HD. On fitting new bushes, use red rubber grease. Don’t use any other grease.

I had the ball joint replaced mate, but if you think ARB bushes, is it an easy job to replace?

Potentially if the balljoints are goosed. My money is on ARB bushes. Wouldn’t expect top mounts to have gone on 2017 car unless high mileage.

Would droplink sound rubbery ? Creaking ??

Audi service desks don’t listen to hearsay or talk of forums however well intended. Minimum is they will scan car with VCDS, then perform repair. Their labour charges are horrific.

Worn drop links or ARB bushes. Both inexpensive.

Don’t under-estimate the task at hand. Luckily this is a 2WD version, but you’re looking at 13 year old car, and everything will be seized on. Hat off to you for attempting. Look at parts here: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A6/717/5 If it were me, then absolute minimum tools would be air compressor with air hammer, axle stands, full socket set with 1/2” extension breaker bar, heat (blow-torch), plus gas penetrating fluid, impact driver, battery or power torque wrench, ceramic anti seize grease, coil spring compressors, scissor jack, 2-tonne jack, wire brush, preferable on drill attachment for exposed bolt threads. Put money on rear coil spring rubber seats. being corroded. Given the work you’re going to, this had better not be your daily driver. Allow yourself a few days, ideally under cover. Brake lines, then flexible hoses, clamp where possible, you’ll need to bleed brakes afterwards. Suspension parts, Meyle HD or Lemforder, and only torque with full vehicle laden weight. Prior to dropping subframe, mark position. At the end, you’re still going to need to do alignment. Also use new subframe bolts from Audi. You will likely need VCDS for rear electro mechanical brake, or chance it just leaving handbrake off and refit pads. Put the car battery on trickle charge, during refit. Given you’re going to hassle of replacing, then swap out rear bearings too. F.A.G., nothing else. Once done, spray everything with Lanoguard every year.

Hi all I purchased an approved Audi Q4 from an Audi dealer. At first glance it was a beautiful 73 plate sport with upgrades, registration LL73VNF. I later find out that it had been involved in some sort of prang and had been subject to a sub quality repair. I had a poor experience with the below garage though positively the garage were open to the feedback. They claim they are assessing it and will ensure it is appropriately repaired before it is sold again. I wanted to share my experience with you all, especially if someone else considers this car or garage. I may have just been lucky as many others have had positive experiences with the dealership. https://maps.app.goo.gl/UJDpEHaPUKWUefzv6?g_st=i Thanks all 👌

Good evening, I have just joined this forum after owning my a6 avant for 8 years. At the beginning of the year my MOT reviled that my rear subframe was heavily corroded so I took it upon myself to rub it down and give it a coat of paint. In doing this I knocked a fairly large hole in the right supporting arm of the subframe. Rather than give up on this car and rush to we by any car I have decided to replace the rear subframe. I found a replacement on eBay that appears to be in reasonable condition and I’d like to order replacement parts such as drop links, control arms if required and all the fasteners required. I am having difficulty finding part numbers especially for the fasteners. Are there any diagrams with part numbers available? I have found American ones but not exactly what I need. Has anyone tackled this job before ? I have a fair amount of experience working on cars but haven’t tackled anything like this. I’m worried about alignment of the subframe and haven’t worked out exactly where to start. I’d like to remove the entire subframe with all the arms, hubs, brakes etc then swap everything over on the drive before refitting. Any help would be greatly appreciated! 2012 A6 avant C7 2.0tdi FWD

Guys my S3 has been creaking from the front left side every time I turn left, it’s more prone when it’s slower, I’ve had ball joint and track rod end changed, no joy. It’s so annoying!! It’s sounds like a dry rubbery sound but can’t find what it is… It’s actually worse when the weather is warmer on a hot day. Any suggestions as I don’t want to keep spending loads and it still be there. Mechanic said process of elimination, could be top mount or steering rack. Tbf before it used to come and go, but as weather is warmer now i can hear it a lot more. Anybody had this issue, any suggestions or help would be appreciated

Ah, so you did. Apologies.