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Solved the noise... it's was the condenser The valve has failed on the condenser & blew the pin through the new pressure switch that I purchased from Audi at £116 😭 we did have ac for 5 minutes before it failed. No more noise now the condenser is broken.

Hello Roger, Thanks for posting your advert, but I think you need to list far more detail, ideally some photos, and lastly the price. Regards, Gareth.

That's very good news. Compliments to the dealer for accepting the situation, though frankly he should have noticed the problem before putting it on sale.

Update. Car went back to main dealer, ( not Audi) and "they" couldn't fix it,advised had to go to Audi with a 6 week wait time. Rejected the car, and went for a similar car they had in stock, but with manual box. Took a few weeks but had courtesy car, all in All can't complain how they handled the situation.

Sorry Andrew, I don't know of a solution.

Tell us more about the driver's door. Can it be moved up and down on its hinges? Do the hinge screws still have their original paint? Does it align with the striker plate when being closed, or does it need to be slammed hard to latch? When fully closed, does it align with adjacent body panels, or is it twisted?

My Audi is looking for a new home. 147000 ISH on the clock but going well. Interested (I am in mid Sussex)

Hi. When I fitted my spare wheel it dropped in underneath the boot floor, so there is no difference in the space available in the main boot. However, depending on the tyre and the fittings already fitted to the chassis underneath the floor you may get either more or less space for tools etc. my tools sit inside the spacesaver tyre which is handy. Hope that helps you out 👍

Hi mate so Much I appreciate your reply yer my hearing isn’t great but my wife has great hearing see says the same yes bad when the radio/blower motor can drowned the indercator click 👍

Hi All, Finally got myself an Audi after being in awe of their designs for a while now and I thoucht to make an account to engage with like minded people. So found an Audi A3, 2010, 2.0L D S-Line in black for sale on Autotrader, mileage at 88k. Did a bit of research and thought the price was fair. Knocked him down a hundred quid on the phone then decided to travel an hour and a half to see it on father’s day to make the purchase. I checked the MOT history and it all checked out, no major issues and between MOTs and services there was around 6000 miles, it had been driven around the outskirts of london however the sale was from up north. Full service history also, from afar it looks like it’s been well maintained. I arrived at the car and immediately realised they were wheeler dealers. The documents and history stated one owner from new and they had litetally just got the documents through to flip for a profit I assume. Anyway, got them down to £3300 which I thought was good at WBAC at the time was listing it for £3350. On my drive home the engine light came on, I was gutted but checked it right away and it was the EGR, only one fault code. I can stomach this, so took it to a trusted guy I know and he deleted the EGR and DPF ECU functionality and manually scraped out the DPF and welded it back together and put a stage 1 remap on it (Couldn’t resist) , he actually commented that it was a good car and he didn’t notice anything untoward which I was happy to hear. Car drives absolutely lovely now… Ive touched up a good few scratches with a paint pen which matches the cars colour, not perfect but for a £3300 car I don’t want it to be perfect. Anyway… £300 later (completely fine) I realise there’s a dent under the left door in the sill, I have no idea why I didn’t spot this on the day, I can only imagine my mind wasn’t in the right place on the day, dragging my family up north on father’s day. My biggest fear is that it’s structural damage and therefore a MOT failure. I have seen repair kits online that use hot glue and clamps to pull out dents and a few people use it on sills but i’m not sure if that would be effective on an audi of this model. First question, has anyone had this problem and is it worth trying that repair above myself ? I have noticed also the drivers door hinge isn’t perfect, I think it’s worn and I imagine it would be a advisory on a MOT, it’s functional, in addition the door seal is worn and flapping around, are these two things an easy fix ? I see seals for a few quid online. This is a must fix where as the hinge I think can wait. Overall im happy with how the car drives and looks inside, I was grateful of the single fault code, it feels like it’s been mechanically looked after but maybe the first owner sold because of the sill damage maybe they hit a curb or something like that. I worry i’ve bought a bad car and just looking to understand what your thoughts are. I don’t mind the odd scratch around the car. I have had cars in past which trouble my mind so much because of how pristine they are, now my partner has that car but this Audi I just want it to be functional and safe but without looking too bad if you know what I mean. I can get a photo loaded later this evening when i get back to it Edit, car also has 4 brand new michelin tyres and new injectors. I deffo feel like i’m missing part of the puzzle as to why the first owner sold it. Hence why I fear the Sill damage might be structural (HPI check completely clear no crashes or insurance cat )

Hi guys, I have a quick follow-up question to those who have a spare wheel in their Audi A3. Currently I don't have a spare wheel but intend to buy one (125/80 R17). Do you know - if I put such wheel in the boot, is the boot floor going to be on the lower or upper level (lower level meaning that the boot capacity is larger)? I just don't want to buy a spare wheel and realise that I'll be forced to have a limited boot size...

Does anyone know what colour code the OEM springs are for a 2014 A6 C7 S-Line Ultra Saloon? Tried LLL parts but there's so many different colour codes that it nearly impossible to find which ones are right and I'd like to get the right springs that match the spec of the car. Cheers!

I would look between the intake under the scuttle trim and the interior fan motor. That would be a typical location the sensor you are looking for would be situated. Will be a very basic 2 wire sensor. -50 usualy means sensors has failed/disconnected or broken wire. You can use a jumper wire to quickly test for a change in readings to ascertain it’s the sensor needing replaced

Thank you. I’ve exhausted patience with it, I don’t know a lot to do with cars and less with electronics. Will likely be gone for scrap. Appreciate your replies.

In my case the sensor was functioning perfectly and would give good readings, it just wasn't positioned correctly in relation to the wheel and so would throw up errors while the car was being driven.

I checked sensors, and got good readings on OBD11. I’ve seen forum posts from people with similar symptoms/codes - establishing basic settings for the Steering Angle Sensor is a common solution. Ive tried the whole standard calibration procedure (and a few variations) several times to no effect. The steering angle data is constant at 0 (live torque and rate data is good). Since my calibration attempts the steering is now much heavier, engine idle speed increased, and a new fault code 01309 Power Steering Control Module.

Ideally you need someone who can look and understand the live data readings that a good diagnostics can provide and try to get the fault to occur while doing this to see what changes

2 types of auxiliary heating available, common was a electric heater that goes inside heater box behind dash that gives some heat until the diesel engines warm up, other option is a diesel heater that keeps the cabin warm when engine is not running, first type is most common and can’t see why this would cause a aircon problem.

Took the car for a diagnostic check today, not to an Audi garage, and the fault that was displayed was no communication with the auxiliary heater, would this cause a problem with the air conditioning.

Hi guys, recently bought an audi a4 on 110k miles. since buying the car for £2000, i have spent nearly the same in repairs and garage fees. it has not been kind to me. Recently got the car back after having a new timing belt kit, water pump, 2 new camshafts, aux belt - the list goes on. within a week, my EML came on after dropping down a gear and i have loss of power after around 2600 revs, along with a flashing glowplug light. ive been told by a friends "mechanically minded" dad, that the turbo is goosed, but then i have also been told it probably will be the EGR Valve or even a boost pressure sensor! good to mention that there is no smoke on acceleration etc. codes found when plugged in: p0299 05171 confused is not the word. Any help is greatly appreciated as i genuinely think im going to write the car off at this point.

I think you'll need to get this booked into the main dealer as MMI issues are well documented.

Looking on autotrader of 24 models onwards most are not hybrid and all the 204ps ones aren't hybrid.

Please keep us posted on how you get on 🙂

Yep it will do.

Thanks for the detailed report Vytautas.