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Thanks I will have a look at the coilovers and make a decision, I believe the brand is mts techniq and just a coilover replacement for the original drc setup. I'm looking at swapping them for a set of bilsteins at some point. As for the arms and suspension bushes everything is either new oem or poly bushed. Apart from the strut tops which need replacing. Many thanks Pete

What about a self charging hybrid? Steve.

Hi if the strut is the same as standard but with a coil over set up instead of the spring and pan set up they should be fine but you may be better served just using stiffer dampers and standard heavy duty springs otherwise the coil over option may well lead to a harsh ride which will give all the link arms a hard time unless you are prepared to change the arms as well. Steve.

Steve firstly thankyou for your reply. Will this mean they will be umcompatable with the normal road set up of coil overs then?

I had thought about an electric car but I live in a first floor flat, and my car is parked quite a few metres from the building. Also, the lease prevents me from making modifications to the building so I wouldn't be able to install a charger at home, so I am not sure how I would charge it up even if it was parked near the building. I don't really know anything about electric cars at all to be honest.

Hi the top mounts are solid because they don't have to rotate in the same way as a McPherson strut assembly where the shock turns with the steering, the strut never moves and the hub orbits the strut via the link arms. Steve.

I know you have seen the above two questions Kian, so I can only assume you are unwilling to help other members of the forum by replying. One warning coming up.

Well if you don't know what aspects of a car appeal to you how can I possibly suggest something you might like? From a purely practical point of view of using the car for a daily commute of eighteen miles with minimal wear and cost a battery electric car would be most suitable.

Its the pressing of the lock or unlock on the key fob.

Need to turn the hill hold setting off and hold the car with the footpedal while turning the engine off.

What's a plip?

Is it petrol, diesel, or hybrid?

Coil packs do fail. Odd the cats gone at the same time.

A common problem with Audis of that era is damage to the wires within the rubber bellows between door and frame. It is worth checking all doors and the boot lid.

As the gearbox oil was changed recently it makes me think it's sensor related. I think it needs an Audi independent specialist.

On multi-link suspension, start with the cheap stuff first and then progress. The lower arms are likely hydrabushes, so they leak when they fail. I changed mine at 65k on a 17 plate A4 Allroad. Lemforder is OE specification. Also check the ARB bushes on the sway bar. Next the ARB link, then finally the top arms. Top arms when they go, will knock. They are usually visible if you hold and 10-2 position and try lateral movement. The only thing left is the top mounts and the bump stops on the suspension shock. If you're changing anything, then always do both sides. Lemforder and Meyle HD, that's all I'd fit. Given the state of our roads - also look at the coil springs too. you can drop an inch and not even know about it. Not sure with A5, but on A4 Avant, the rear spring seat/bush corrodes from inside out, so although cheap from Audi, you're looking at labour to fit unless you're spanner handy. I did it myself so as not to disturb eccentric bolt. If I was doing it again, I would just mark then remove that bolt. This is complicated further if its quattro drive. Car will need alignment check afterwards.

Last summer while in the heat of southern France, my A5 (Dec-2017, 40,000 mile) developed a front suspension creak. It was always at low speed and particularly when turning left. The car was completely checked on my return, 'shaked, rattled and rolled', but steadfastly refused to creak once, however, everything was checked, levered, put in a shaking plate, and no creaks or movement in joints found, and so while noisy, the car was declared 'good' (safe). The sound is very like the creak heard here (02:29) ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzRt8SxUbWk&t=149s ... although is not when driving as in this clip, only at slow speed turning. Now summer is back, so is the creak, however, this times the garage have had it creak for them, so at least I'm no longer a nutjob coming in with an imaginary creak 😂 However, again checked, and while the creak can now be heard, identifying which bush of which control arm, is more of a challenge. To their credit, the garage aren't proposing 'Just change everything', and instead trying to be a little more surgical. Lower rear front control arms seem 'popular' as a source of creaks brought on by the loading they get, but so far the the only option seems to be the use of a Steelman Wireless ChassisEAR (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i8x8rY6RRZE ). This provides a pack of sensors that clip to the control arms and help determine which is the source. See an dealer article on this at https://rsautotechnik.uk/how-to-solve-an-audi-a5-suspension-issue/ Has anyone else got any experience of this kind of suspension noise? Is it 10:1 it will be a lower rear suspension arms, or have people got experience of other arms/bushes becoming noisy? The video I quoted above (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzRt8SxUbWk&t=149s) makes the not unreasonable point that once once bush has started to go, the others may not be too far behind, and as you should be considering a wheel alignment after a suspension component replacement, while 'doing the lot' is a little eye watering (8 control arms!), it does get it over and done with and only requires the one alignment post replacement, so despite the (very) low mileage of my car, maybe it's just a case of age getting to the bushes which are starting to complain? Anyway, I'd be interested in other people's experience, thoughts and vote on most likely component. Maybe I just need to get under the car and inspect the bushes myself and make my own decision about how healthy (or otherwise) the bushes look, or just conclude 8.5 years just means the bushes are hardening and cracking, and complete replacement is the way to go given I'm likely to keep the car a long time ... it's an nice car with an absurdly low mileage, and I've had it from new.

Try changing the Hill Hold Assist setting. I had the same issue in a previous A3 but can't remember whether to turn it off or on, but whichever yours is set to, change it to the other. Hope this helps

Hi. My partner's recently bought Q2 has an odd and not very welcome feature. The wing mirrors fold on locking the car with the key pilp, but don't unfold when the car is unlocked with the plip. They only do so when the key goes in the ignition. In some circumstances this can lead to doubt about whether the doors are locked or not whereas before it was obvious as the plip alone folded and unfolded the wing mirrors (as is does with my similarly new A3). The garage says it can't be changed but does anyone know if it can with a hack perhaps? TIA

I have a new A3 Black Edition auto. Within four weeks of delivery the engine cut out whilst driving, the drivetrain under positive power. The car rolled to a complete halt, the retardation entirely commensurate with the wheels driving a dead engine - it did not freewheel. The instrument panel remained powered and displayed no warning lights or fault messages. I shut the car down and after a pause restarted. Since then it has operated normally. The Distributor has found no data supporting the shutdown in the diagnostic system. Can anyone shed any light?

Hi all I have had my A3 since September 2025 and I haven't yet been able to figure how to park it in my garage with the brakes off. It's an auto and I have read lots of stuff but I cannot figure it out. I may be stupid but there you go any helpful advice will be appreciated. JB

Hi all does anyone have any idea on what this distinct tapping noise could be? had the rocker arms, lifters, injectors and all cam followers replaced and is still present. Noise is at idle and speeds up with acceleration and can hear it inside doesn't affect performance. Been advised by three separate mechanics its not bottom end so at my wits end really, any thoughts appreciated. Thanks a7bcf128-5947-4002-afba-29c811dd5d88 (1).mp4

Hello all After a year of owning my first RS6 c5. It seems I'm in need of new strut top mounts. Do any of you have experience of the 034 rubber mounts? I've seen they are solid vs original ones that have bearings. How much of a difference does this make. And on a side note has anyone used RB Racing brake disc. What's your thoughts? Any help will be much appreciated Pete

I bought a 2nd hand A1 TDI from a garage in Plymouth. It too had the same high pitched squeal which sounded louder from the rear right of the car, both inside and outside. We took our car to a local, trusted workshop for a service & they identified the engine bay fuel filter canister had never been replaced in its 75k history, despite the service history showing complete. A new filter was fitted and 10k later the car continues to run smoothly and quietly.

My passenger door only unlocks during summer months, back door same side, intermittent during winter. Is there an explanation please?