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You are correct Tony.

Welcome aboard mate, and nice looking motor too. And I have the same problem with the sensors, not fun with the sedan, and that's coming from an ex HGV1 driver.

Looks like you've lost a wheel, somewhere on your drive! 😁

The old trick for cleaning the inside of a fuel tank was to throw in a handful of nut (the ones that go on bolts, not the KP variety!) and then shake your moneymaker like your life depended on it, obviously removing anything like fuel sender etc first.

Not quite it's a coil serving the distributor. Oh, I always thought the coil sent the spark and the ditributor passed it to the plugs.

Other way about Tony. It’s the distributor which ‘serves’ the coil.

Oh ok thanks , I took it to him with a clicking when turning left , got it back and the clicking was gone , but now have the single knock when initial acceleration in drive and reverse . So hopefully the 2nd new outer cv joint will fix this .

No, it can knock in the straight ahead position, though it is always worse when turning.

I suppose my mechanic who's working at it 40 years knows more , also he's covering the cost of the replacement cv joint so not going elsewhere , I can just try the outer and if still knocking i have lost nothing, then move onto inner . My question is can the outer cause this knock noise ? I thought it would just be a clicking while turning .

Well done.

So do you trust Mr. Google or do you trust your mechanic? In your position I would go elswhere.

2 litres of oil in 1100 miles is truly extraordinary, and indicates significant wear of the pistons and/or bores. This is confirmed by your new revelation of excessive crankcase pressure, which is likely the cause of the oil loss. A crankcase gasket will not solve this problem. It's just possible that a new crankcase pressure control valve will help, but it's more likely that the engine has reached the end of its life. That will cost many thousands of pounds to sort out so it makes sense to get a firm diagnosis before making a decision on what to do. I suggest you find an independent VAG specialist rather than travelling to an Audi dealer. Here are two I found on an internet search. There are bound to be others. https://www.autohausedinburgh.co.uk/ https://www.hrmotors.co.uk/

update, thanks for the comments, made me go back & start again, it was a faulty plug in nearside quarter panel that was reading live at socket but not in the plug, breaking the circuit. thank you again.

Not quite it's a coil serving the distributor.

He also doesn't want to change the whole driveshaft he says there's no need. His logic is the only thing that was changed before the knock came was outer cv joint , so it's obviously the outer thats the problem . Has he a point or am I being paranoid?

Is it old fashioned enough to have points? If so, check the gap and ensure the contact faces are unburnt. The condensers in such systems were also prone to failure.

Just another enquire , my mechanic is convinced it's the outer cv joint making the knocking noise when accelerating, but everything iv read on the web suggests that this knocking is the inner joint not the outer , can anybody tell me can an outer joint cause this singal knock when accelerating? Don't want to have to go back again if it was the inner after all this.

Hi Clifford, many thanks for your reply. I have to admit that up until the last MOT in March I have never needed to top up the oil. Obviously the oil was changed each year when the car was serviced. Since March though I have used about 2 litres and I have done about 1100 miles (due mostly to going to Audi specialist in Newcastle several times). There is a pool of oil on the ground below the engine where the car is parked overnight. As for the Audi recall to fit new pistons, I have no receipts from the previous owner for this work. I have just had a quote from the Audi specialist for replacing the crankcase gasket of £1,005 incl. vat but with the following comment - "we cannot guarantee this work due to a relevant TPI in relation to excess crankcase pressure resulting in modified pistons". The vacuum pump cost me £500 so with the cost of this crankcase gasket the total spend will be £1,500 with no guarantee that this work will cure the leak. An impossible situation. Kind regards, Colin Dimes.

who knows why the machine says wiltshire clifford.also the dates wrong,as i had it checked today lol

you make sense gareth....unfortunately i am on a budget(yorkshire man)lol

Hi all I've just sorted out my fuel system but have no spark, I've cleaned the dizzy cap and rotor arm which both look ok and tested the resistance in all leads which were ok too now I had a go at testing the coil but I'm not great with electrics.Has anyone got an idiot proof guide to doing this. Thanks

Thanks! In fact I've spent 2.500 Euros so far to get a promising 2.5Tdi for another 200.000Km without any more issues than the regular oil change. Every year I've spent like 4k Euros on my old car, a Land Rover Discovery Sport 2.0 Ingenium. So... 2.5K Euros for some "peace" is quite good for me! 😁 Cheers

Luckily it's fairly old so I hope it won't be over complicated🤞

UPDATE : took the car back to garage , they took everything apart and retightened all the bolts on the inner cv joint and also the cv hub nut , Absolutely no movement on inner joint . Unfortunately the noise still there , on the plus side it's definitely coming from the wheel area not the gearbox , it's there when put the car into drive or reverse and accelerate hard . So at least he was able repeat the sound . He reckons it must be a faulty part out of box , he reckons theres movement on the spline when accelerating, he has ordered a new part and will fit next week when it comes under warranty , he says it's perfectly safe to drive until then . Hoping the new part will solve the problem , he's says that's all it can be as that's all that was changed on the car . It's an SFK cv joint not sure how good they are but he says they are very good parts .

I admire both your dedication and the size of your wallet Federico.