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So I’m having some problems with my turbo actuator on my 2015 Audi a6 2.0 TDI….read a lot of places these can be adjusted however the one I have and the replacement one part number doesn’t look as though it has any adjustment capability. im advised the actuator should read 3.6V with power on (tolerance 3.3v to 3.9v) engine off and 0.76v with engine on at idle. my readings are currently 3.2v power on, engine off and 0.72v with engine on at idle. the actuator itself has not nut/bolt to allow adjustment. have ran turbo adaptation on VCDS but no change to readings. basically my cars running like rubbish especially 4th, 5th and 6th gear as if it’s struggling. No EML, not fault codes. if I were to replace the actuator I take it that it would just be a straight swap over. image of actuator

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Thanks for coming back on this Alan. My (jaundiced?) view on ‘fancy large wheels’ is that they may appeal to some onlookers who take any interest in looking at car wheels, but such people can be rare to come across. They will also appeal to owners who want, or expect, others to fancy their large wheels, and if that is what turns anybody on, then that’s fine too. The practical and downsides:- So that gearing etc. is not affected, the total diameter of wheel + tyre has to remain constant, so the larger the wheel dia. the lower the profile ( sidewall height) of the tyre has to be, and dictated profiles can be reduced to silly levels as with your current 30. The lower the tyre profile, the much harsher the ride quality the driver has to suffer, for the ‘benefit’ of being able to view the static car with the large fancy wheels - which can’t be seen by the driver when using the car! Does that significant disadvantage add up? I guess, yes, to some owners. Convertibles are for enjoying with the hood down, with a nice comfy ride, while you take your time to smell the flowers along the way. Just one person’s point of view, and very much open to debate. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks for the update Paul, In addition to Cliff’s queries, I think I’m reading it correctly, that you changed the actual bearings in the original hub casing- correct? If so, any particular reason why you chose this labour intensive route, rather than renewing the hub assembly - complete - already fitted with new bearings? Kind regards, Gareth.

I have never come across wheel bearings that have over-heated unless there is a lubrication fault, which seems unlikely if the car has been well maintained. That leads me to wonder if the caravan is over loading them. Have you checked the load on the tow hitch?

Gareth, Thanks for the welcome to club and your thoughts on wheel size. The 20" wheels are what where with the car. Also appreciate your thoughts on going to 18" and I will start looking for some fresh rims and tyres to do a changeout. Many thanks. Alan

Hi Gareth, I am in the same position. Did you ever get to the bottom of this. Regards

Well, fancy that! Many thanks Cliff. Great shame you weren’t able to be one of the S. Wales’ valley academics who got me into this bad habit. I like the ingrained bit - this certainly has been exactly that with me over too many decades to recall. Kind regards, Gareth.

It is an S4 Avant B9 but I imagine the dimensions are the same. My partner has a 62 plate S5 and that also works but the low sloping glass window at the very back does require more fiddling. Mind you these are road bikes (42cm wide handlebars). With the wheels off, it should be much easier.

As far as I am aware, the 2.0l 35 and 40 TFSi share the same engine. The 2.0l 35 replaced the 1.4l petrol engine. My first Audi was an A5 35 TFSi. It was a good car but I found it to be a bit sluggish for want of a better word. It was almost like the factory tune was restricting things a bit too much to get it down to 150ps. It tended to hesitate before accelerating. Both of mine were DSGs and I found that if I put the foot down, even in sport mode, the 35 would just rev away in neutral when I tried to overtake anything before finally selecting a gear. Usually by which time the opportunity to pass had gone. The 40 is so much better in my opinion and accelerates much more freely. If you can find a good tuning place then they only need to remap it to be similar to the 40 and it will become a better car and still well within the tolerances for reliability etc.

Thanks Gareth. I've taken your advice and emailed Audi customer services. They are a tad slow to respond though. So far they've only responded to say that my issue doesn't sound right 😯 and asked me for my VIN and address. Given that I have now found dozens of threads on forums all over the world complaining of exactly the same issue I have, I'm not sure what they are going to be able to do for me. TBH all I need is the ability to change it to "late" like I was able to in my last two A5s and I should be ok.

Well, after all this time, still no new tyres as they still legal.... turns out the tyres are not noisy at all.... driver side rear wheel bearing changed yesterday and what a difference.... the car is almost silent now! 2 sets of bearings, inner amd outer and one of the sets, all the balls bearings were a psychedelic blue almost from the heat.... Good to know the noise I had heard did exist as the other half said it was just road noise..... must admit though this last journey pulling the caravan back from the lakes it got alot worse. I got the wife to drive after I'd dropped the caravan off, climbed in the back and lifted the floor cover up to get my head down to the wheel arch and was pretty clear which side..... Happy at last but tyres are coming with another handful of pound notes to hand over 😭

Two words I'm afraid Gareth, not one, and it's definitely not an Americanism. It's odd how simple slips become ingrained. For example I used to be able to spell accomodate without a thought, but now I have to look it up every time because I double the "m", single the "c", or substitute an "a" for an "o" or various permutations of the three. Cliff.

One of my cars Is an 8J TTS I Sometimes get a little water coming in the passenger footwell from the bottom door seal. I CBA to replace the whole door seal so I just leave it. As I have custom rubber floor mats it just creates a tiny puddle on random occasions. But if it is leaking badly you should look into it. Also worth checking the frameless windows are seated correctly as this can cause leaks. Also there is a drain hole on the bottom of the door which sometimes gets blocked, as the door is designed for rainwater to run down the glass and though the door not over it. Regularly applying rubber conditioner and cleaning the seals helps prevent issues. Something like liqui moly gummi-pflege works very well. (especially during winter when the rubber can freeze) If you think water is coming in via the HVAC - you could first try removing the pollen filter which is super easy - no tools required and see if it is damp.

Hi all, my car is jerking heavily sometimes when let’s say driving out of a roundabout picking up speed from 3rd to 4th and 4th to 5th.Also let’s going through a town around 30-40 km/hr. No hassle taking off from stopped, idling, motorway etc. Automatic gearbox. Can’t get help or answers locally. Dunno what to do. All help graciously accepted. 🙏

Welcome Alan, and thanks for joining. I fear this could become on a par with ‘what is the best brand of petrol to use’? What I would start off by mentioning is - why on earth would you want 20 inch wheels - dictating extremely low profile tyres - on a cabriolet? Those wheels, coupled with the S Line suspension is likely to result in a ride akin to that with solid tyres! Appreciating it may have come to you like that, but a need to renew tyres, might be the time to rethink the whole set up, and move to say 18 inch wheels with a much better ride giving profile. Tyres? I too have come from the school of using premium grade tyres and have always favoured Michelin, generally for their longevity - giving you more long term miles/£. The humble A3 has just been re-fitted with a new set of Michelin, but I find they now have a tread depth of c6.5 mm compared with the past norm of 8mm. Also, the tread grooves are wider, so all in all, less rubber for your extra £s! Continentals? Tried these in the past, and have not been impressed with their longevity. As a complete departure, I have just had a set of mid range Kumho tyres fitted to (sorry-prestige)a non Audi, after taking advice on the appropriate forum. These were available on a good offer at my local ATS, who I must say are now a super set of chaps, and their prices are far more competitive at last. Just some food for thought. Kind regards, Gareth.

Does anyone have any knowledge of the what the turbo actuator voltage readings on a 2015 2.0 TDI 190 should be? with ignition off mine is showing 3.269v or 3269.0mv, with engine running and at idle it shows 0.7294V or 729.4mv

Thanks 👍 is that in an A4 Advant? I'm still wondering if I can fit them in my 4 door S5 with the seat laid down. Not thought of laying the bikes down as opposed to standing then up 👍

Thanks Steve as always I appreciate your knowledge and help.

Hello , I'm a newbie Audi owner and need to change out the rear tyres on a 2019 A5 Cabriolet - I'm looking for some advice / guidance. The existing rears are : contisportcontact 265/30R20 (94Y) and are not in brilliant shape . The front wheels have a pair of new looking Toyo 265/30ZR20 (94Y) tyres on them . I'm planning on using the car for predominantly for summer use and it's an S Line Edition 40 model. I guess my questions are : 1. Are the contisportcontact tyres worth the price (supposedly to protect the alloys from scuffing) ? 2. What are peoples opinion and experience on the Toyo 265/30ZR20 tyres on an A5 ? On previous cars I've avoided having mixed tyre types and have tended to gravitate towards Michelin, Goodyear , Pirelli . I'm not too sure if I'm being over conservative here or what. So your thoughts are appreciated. Cheers

I can easily fit 52 and 56cm road bikes without removing wheels in the boot with the seats laid down. It sometimes takes a bit of jiggling to free handlebars from wheels but I lay them top to tail - handlebars facing front on the bottom bike.

There you go then Allan.

I was referring to cambelt quote Lance.

Thanks Cliff, Now that’s food for thought, on the never too old to learn theme. I’ve always written ‘in case’ as Incase ( without the capital I) from the days when I had hair. So are you saying that’s incorrect, and it should be written as ‘in case’, and if so, is that anything to do with an Americanism, or the pitfalls of an ill informed Welshman!? No probs. either way, since I’m now offence-proof. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi sorry no cover, Fords used to do it but I think everyone learned from that, the ECU gets warm and a cover creates condensation which corrodes the units connections Steve.