DSG Gearbox holding gears

[ZakHargz]

Hey, 

I've picked up a project car; and I'm having issues with the DSG gearbox. The car is a 2008 8P BMN.

When I bought the car it needed a new flywheel; I've gone and replaced this and done. DSG service. 

It changes from 1st -> 2nd; and will sometimes change into 3rd at low revs and back to 2nd, if my foot is heavier, I can reach 4000rpm and it'll still be in second. 

This is only in auto mode on D and S; manual with flappy is fine. 

I've used my Topdon diagnostic tool and I'm being prompted with the following; I'm wondering if any of these are contributing to the DSG issue; or they're separate:

00493 - Esp-Senor Unit
01592 - Air Quality Sensor
00562 - Oil Level Thermal Sensor
00778 - Steering Angle Sensor
00931 - Lock Unit For Central Locking:Right Rear
01549 - Supply Voltage For Park Assist Sensor
00576 - Terminal 15

Any help would be hugely appreciated. 

Thanks,

[ZakHargz]

Hey, 

Unfortunately I can't answer some of those questions as I've only just picked it up and these problems were already present.

I don't believe it has any mods (it is showing a DPF sign on the dash, but it could just need a regen); EGR is all in place ETC. 

When I've dived in further, I don't get any output from the Steering Angle Sensor; reading of 0.

Esp-Unit is defective, but I'm not sure I trust this from my diagnostic tool - Last thing I want to do is splash money at problems if this becomes a big DSG problem 😞

Edited February 28 by ZakHargz

[ZakHargz]

So, I've been playing around with this dam car all afternoon and it's starting to frustrate me; and now I've got another code!

1. Hopefully that's not needed; doesn't really want to be spending more on a clutch and taking the gearbox out again! Right nightmare of a job.

2. Multiple lights on the dash:
 - Traction Control
 - Steering wheel 
 - DPF light

3. Car has done 147k

4. I've recently just refilled the DSG fluid; still hasn't had a difference.

5. It idles around 800/850rpm when idle. From cold start, I do get a juddering; but once it's started, it's absolutely fine and idles quite nicely. Before it was knocking due to flywheel, but this has been rectified.

I have noticed that I do have a slow throttle response from stand-still; it takes a while to kick in! It revs nice when in P; but as soon as I set off, there is no instant go - I have now been presented with another code:

P0000 SAE - Reserved by Document ISO 15031-6, 2005.

 

[ZakHargz]

Blimey! Thanks for the videos and information. 

I'm picking up a tablet with VCDS & Delphi today so hopefully it can give me a bit more information than my pesky Topdon scanner.

As for the vac leak; this is interesting! I'll see if I can find the problem on that. 

Might be worth picking up a newish Can Gateway and get it recoded, see what happens. Don't suppose you know anywhere in Lancashire that I could get one of these today? 

Thanks, 

[ZakHargz]

I’ve been playing around with it today, looked like I didn’t plug in a small hose behind the rocker cover; I’ve done that and added the hose to the air intake box.

The car is now driving lumpy, I’ve recorded a video and you can hear it, sounds like it starved of air.

The car has only had a new flywheel,  not a new DSG gearbox.

It does this in forward and reverse. 

 

[ZakHargz]

 

 

[ZakHargz]

Yes, it was running better, but wasn’t picking up throttle as it should. I plugged in the rocker cover hose (at the back near the turbo) and the intake hose, revved better but drove as the video above. 
 

I’ll give it another look over in the morning and see what I can find; I’ll play about with it and see if I can spot anything else. I’ll record the video as mentioned. 

[ZakHargz]

Found the issue to my leak, the pipe had popped off the throttle body, those C clamps are a nightmare. 

Unfortunately, when testing the driving ability, it’s reluctant to go into third, and instantly downshifts back to second, and revs increase to near 4000. I have to intervene and use the paddle to shift up.  It’s still lacking response from the throttle.

I’m at wits end with this car now!

[ZakHargz]

So, I’ve had a bit more of a play around with the car today; and I defo think it has a tune. I’ve blanked off the EGR and unplugged it; and it ticked over better (I’ll insert clip below).  I’m not going to lie, it’s got some right power behind it! Now, here is where it changes again.

I’ve noticed that when I drive, my throttle response is immediate! and the DSG will change from 2nd to 3rd to 4th when I hit 4000rpm, now my question is; why doesn’t it change up gears when I’m light on the throttle; say 2000rpm?

Would this be down to the tune; it’s poor and could do with a TCU tune for it to match? 
 

I still have my list of electrical faults, but I can fix them as and when, as long as it drives. 
 

Here is the startup…

 

 

[ZakHargz]

Not sure if this is related, but it came up on the dash; brake light 🤷‍♂️

Wondering if these electrical faults could be down to brake light switch? I’ve read on other forums it’s common. 

[ZakHargz]

Hey Jasonj,

Some interesting points you’ve raised there; 

1. Would you be concerned about the rattle of the engine when it starts (video above)

2. It’s had some HIDs installed which to be frank, are poor and don’t work; they’re barely noticeable in the dark; I’ll 100% be taking these out and putting standard bulbs back in. 
 

3. I can’t say for certain if the EGR blanking plate (only at the front, not blanked the cooler, I’ve unplugged the EGR too) has worked, but it’s defo performing as it should! I still think it has a map on the car; but it’s the first I’ve driven of this type. 
 

4. It did have wires running from the radio to the back where it looks like a sub was installed! I’ve ripped the power cable out, and yet to remove the radio and pull the remainder, this may cause less obstruction on the electrical side, but I won’t know until I do this. 
 

5. As before, I still have similar codes on the Topdon. I’ll let the bus system sleep and grab the codes in the morning. 
 

Note: It looks like I need a new rear wiper motor which I’ll pickup soon; but this shouldn’t cause any issues… I wouldn’t have though. 
 

Thank you for helping me over the past few days; it’s certainly been a great help in getting this back up and running! 

[ZakHargz]

I’ve removed the HIDs and installed a cheap H7 bulb but I think they were installed as full beam; the actual headlights don’t work and I have no idea why! 
 

I’ve too pulled out the radio; removed all the aftermarket rubbish they’d installed which is beyond a joke! Still coming back with the same problems. 
 

I’ve bought a new brake light bulb, but since I’m on my own I can’t determine if this is actually a problem, or the car is throwing a wild code; but it doesn’t appear all the time! 

[ZakHargz]

Hey Jasonj,

Todays update:

1. Low/High beams are now working as they should, along with the reverse lights. Final piece is license plate lights which look goosed, so I’ll get some off Amazon and replace those tomorrow. 
 

2. Still some codes on the Topdon…

Codes:

03 - Brake Electronics - 00493 ESP-Sensor - Defective

08 - Climate Control Module - 00819 / 01952 - Open or short to ground

17 - Instrument Cluster - 00562 - Open or short to ground

44 - Power Steering - 00778 - No message with this one?

76 - Parking Aid - 01549/00576

I’m not sure which I should begin with. 

[cliffcoggin]

Zak.

This may seem an odd question, but it is not trivial, and may be relevant to the problems. How old is the battery?

[ZakHargz]

Sorry for the long awaited reply back; had a few personal issues to contend with. 
 

I have replaced the battery (before doing the flywheel replacement). So wouldn’t expect that to cause any issues. 
 

I’ve managed to resolve a few of the error codes that were coming up; I’ll update with the latest list shortly. 

[cliffcoggin]

1 hour ago, ZakHargz said:

I have replaced the battery (before doing the flywheel replacement). So wouldn’t expect that to cause any issues. 
 

Was the replacement battery new or secondhand? Did you get it coded to the car?

[ZakHargz]

It was brand new. I don’t believe it needed coding to the car; I can’t see any options for this in my diagnostic machine. 
 

I have the same codes as before starting work on the car. 
 

I have noticed this though:

 

 

IMG_0711.dngIMG_0705.dngIMG_0707.dngIMG_0706.dngIMG_0709.dng

IMG_0708.dng

[cliffcoggin]

The battery needs to be coded to the car, otherwise you will get a variety of electronic faults and spurious alarms.

Sorry, but I will not download files from unknown sources.

[ZakHargz]

There isn’t any options for battery coding; my vehicle doesn’t support it. 
 

Attachments are images uploaded from my iPhone 

[cliffcoggin]

Then your car must be unique. Every other A3 of that era needs the battery to be coded to the car.

[ZakHargz]

Still, even with the battery coded, I can’t understand why that would be causing ESP; ABS and steering wheel light to be on; registering defective?

Unfortunately, this is a learning curve for me. 

[cliffcoggin]

As I mentioned two days ago, "The battery needs to be coded to the car, otherwise you will get a variety of electronic faults and spurious alarms."

I am not saying the lack of coding is definitely the cause of your problems, but until you eliminate that possibility there can be no logical resolution from error messages.