Hi All just purchased a 2012 A4 Allroad 2.0 Quattro, I’ve been reading the owners manuals and now I’m confused! Do I have a timing chain or belt? There’s no Adblue filler near the fuel cap assume I don’t have Adblue? Tail pipes are sooty is this a sign of DPF problems?

Thanks Andy

Euro 5 common rail diesel engine (177PS), no AdBlue. However will have DPF, EGR, cat, etc. Tail pipes shouldn't be sooty. Any indication of turbo or actuator work in history? Engine will normally regenerate after a long drive once up to temperature. Car should have start stop. If that's not working, it's either been disabled, or needs regen.

If you're concerned about emissions, add Forte diesel conditioner to the fuel tank when you're on low fuel light and drive hard for 10-20 miles. Replace the fuel filter (lives under the driver's side). Mann filters are very good. Few underbody fasteners to remove to get to it.

Assuming you don't have VCDS, (as there's a prime function), then engage ignition to hear fuel pump prime (but don't start), a 5-6 times to prime it. Top up with some premium diesel and see if situation improves.

Edited May 12May 12 by spartacus 68

Thanks for the info, I’m not sure what VCDS is?

It’s going for MOT in a couple of weeks guess they will pick up any emissions issues from the DPF??

Forgot to mention, its a timing belt too. Personally speaking, 5 years or 60k miles for interval. Change tensioner pulley and water-pump at the same time. These are very good engines and will run for years if properly maintained. Change oil annually (5w30) or by 10k miles.

VCDS is diagnostic software available via Gendan.

No real issues with these cars. Panoramic sunroofs are known to leak. If bi-xenon headlights (better than halogen projectors), then headlight washers should work. Rear spring seats corrode. Check the exhaust central clamps (usually rust through), replace with stainless Mykalor clamps.

Brake calipers if still original suffer oxide corrosion that forces dust sleeve to swell and you end up with sticky caliper, brakes overheating. I rebuilt mine with Budweg kit.

Edited May 12May 12 by spartacus 68

Thanks for all this info it will be useful as I like to keep things well maintained, no mention of turbo works in the history which has been carried out by an independent specialist, it’s done 160k which is more than others I’d looked at but the history was far superior, is there any way to see when the regen is happening / attempted? the auto start stop doesn’t work, the symbol with a line through appears on the dash, I assume the manual switch for it is illuminated when turned off? I have an Icarsoft I’ll give the codes a read see if there’s any signs

Is there an ‘ideal’ journey distance for a regen? My daily commute is 18 miles on various roads and takes about 30 mins

Normal regeneration is every 300 miles and is linked to ash/soot level once it gets to 40-45%. Normally after a decent journey, when car is up to temperature, then it will kick in.

On stop/start, then it can be switched off via VCDS software. Car is new to you, and on 160k, so anything is possible. Yes, you can manually disable too via instrument switch, but that would reset, each time. A weak battery could also be attributed. You’re doing well to get 7-8 years from a battery now, and cars are susceptible to voltage drops. New ones are usually AGM and coded to the car. On cold, not started, with a multimeter, you should be getting 12.4-12.7V.

VCDS software isn’t just for scans, as mentioned, you can prime fuel filter, retract rear electro-mechanical brake for new discs, perform learn process if you were replacing sunroof motor for example, add sweep on rev counter on start up, dip passenger wing mirror on reverse, etc. Something to consider down the line.

Appreciate all the info 👍