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I have a 3.0 TDI 2014 and cannot find an answer to my problem. When you press the accelerator from a standstill the engine revs rise as you would expect but the gearbox takeup is not immediate and some times not until the revs are quite high This doesnt happen all the time and is only from a standstill. Can be alarming when pulling out etc. I have had the gearbox oil changed Nd it has been remapped but no difference. Help please.

Hi, having a nightmare with a knocking noise coming from drivers side front. The knock happens when going over rough ground (but only when the car is not under load) when accelerator is depressed the knocking doesn't happen. It also happens under heavy braking. Car has just gone through Mot and asked the mechanic and he said nothing that was checked has wear of any kind that would cause this. Has anyone has similar issues or know what the issue could be. Worth mentioning that when braking it seems to be uneven you can feel the brakes letting off. thanks

Hi on the contrary, thank you for posting your resolution as it gives the other people who read this a chance, as so many people just fix the problem and never post the resolution, its like watching a really good film and the TV packs up fifteen mins from the end, I wasn't quite sure about the coding at first and then dredged my memory about the electrical shunt which I was told about a long time ago, it performs the way a can bus does by fooling the control module in to thinking its the original, this is also done on most aftermarket alternators to get round the coding drama. Regards Steve.

All went smoothly. No issues with coding. I ended up changing the complete calliper and actuator assembly - the new one feels super smooth in comparison to the original. Thanks for your assistance.

Tank you for your help. I will try this tomorrow.

This might be the problem , 183000. Full service history and runs sweet as a peach though.

Hi everyone! Had an issue with the temp gauge showing I was getting hotter than usual last week. Always run flat at 90c but last week was running above the 90c and spiking to the line above. Went and checked the bottom hose and low and behold was stone cold so did a full flush and switched the thermostat. Since then the temp gauge is still reading hotter than usual. Checked the pipes with a thermo gun and they were running at 90c, bottom hose gets hot, thermo opens and fan comes on. The issue is the gauge is still reading hot, casual driving around it sits at above 90c and fluctuatea between the first line above 90 and just above 90. I've read and re-read the Haynes but I can't seem to find where the coolant temp switch lives. There is Nothing on the flange that comes out of the side of the head and only the thermostatic switch on the front (which controls the manifold pre-heater/auto-choke for the pierburg 2e2). I've ordered a new temp coolant sensor but not much point until I can see where it goes! Also, the gauge is behaving totally as it should do in the sense it slowly gets up to temp. I've bleed all the air out by massaging the hoses/jacking up the expansion tank point and there is no more air coming out Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

I tried the other key , same issue. But I will try to change the battery in my main key, maybe it will help.

Audi A4 2.0T FSI B7 Manual. Before this happened I had no codes and the car ran perfect. I drove the car yesterday and about 1 mile into my journey I lost most power and the engine is running very very rough. I only drove it at 30MPH before this happened. I have the engine check light flashing. I scanned for fault codes and got all of these together. P0299, P2181, P2309, P0300, P0304 fault codes What can cause all these codes together? What should I check for first? Thanks

Thanks Jasonj for your time and help. It was number 4 on your list. a bad coil. I got a new diagnostic tool and it showed number 4 cyl and the counts of misfiring on that cyl. The misfiring count just kept going up. I swapped the ignition coil from cyl 4 to cyl 1 and the misfire count shifted to cyl 1. Fitted 4 new Bosch ignition coils and rechecked on the scan tool, no more misfires detected and all fault codes have disappeared/gone. I put the 3 old working ones in the boot with a small tool kit for next time. For any one reading this that are short for cash you can just change the bad one for a new one although the others are just as old so it's good practice to change them all once confirmed the coil pack is faulty. Thanks again

I bought a brand new Q5 PHEV in December 2023. Runs fine on electric. With combustion engine there's a whining noise whenever I accelerate; it clears when ease off the throttle. Comes at different speed levels. After lots of hassle, and the car with the dealer for over a week, the response from Audi is "it's a characteristic of the car". The dealer says it's noise from the turbo. If that's the case, it's a poor design or a faulty turbo, but the dealer's having nothing of it. It's driving me mad. I have an open case with Audi but am getting nowhere. I'm close to rejecting the car and fighting to get my money back. Has anyone else experienced this? In desperation.... Andrew

Hi. If you have any issues with insurance at all for any changes to the vehicle interior then please feel free to drop me a line. Regards, Dan.

Hi, I have a 2020 Q5 55. I don't get this whining noise. I also suspect it could be from the turbo. I'm sure the engine (and everything else), has changed in the last 3-4 years. Just also wondering if they have reduced on the insulation / noise dampening? Could be my car is making the same noise, just that i'm not hearing it (or i'm going deaf). If you want to double check it yourself, you could take it to a Rolling Road (someone who does remaps). I'm not asking you to do a remap or rev the engine hard or anything. Just put it on the rolling road and ask them to stick their computer on it, and then rev the car up gently (or how you wish), and you should be able to hear the noise and directly compare with the Turbo boost. If it matches, there you have it. You won't void the warranty, as you are not actually doing any work to the car (unless you get a remap :D). I hope you can get it sorted. Thanks, Joe

Hi. That’s interesting as mine definitely is OK with pure electric and I only hear it with the combustion engine. Hi. That’s interesting as mine definitely is OK with pure electric and I only hear it with the combustion engine. I am getting nowhere with either the dealer or Audi UK. The dealer is the worst I have ever come across. Tetbury Audi. Don’t touch them with a bar pole. Completely disinterested now they’ve sold me the car. with either the dealer or Audi UK. The dealer is the worst I have ever come across. Tetbury Audi. Don’t touch them with a bar pole. Completely disinterested now they’ve sold me the car. Audi UK are fobbing me off saying it is a characteristic of the car and to take it up with the dealer. They are refusing to give me any of the assurances I have requested. I am so disappointed but I’m not going to give up. I would be interested to hear of other peoples experiences with Audi UK.

G’day Andrew, We just picked our Q5 55 up a week or so ago and I notice the same high pitched whining noise, though I suspect mine is from the electric motor. I’ve not noticed it when in pure combustion mode. it is very loud and I seem to be able to replicate it when the engine is under load, I.e up a hill, higher gear acceleration etc. have you had any luck with Audi?

Thanks Jason, the whole story is that I had a new p/s hose fitted recently and the system isn't working properly, low revs and it's stiff more revs and it eases up. It's going back for a investigation as to whether the pump has gone. When I checked the fluid I thought it had a redish colour which was obviously put in when they did the hose.

Hi most motor factors sell the stuff but I have found the Ford sump sealant is the best, its a bit more money but when it never leaks again, thats where the extra money went. Steve.

I have located them and had a little play around with them but no chance however have done an OMS check at the obd2 port at pins 6 and 14 and got a reading of over 120 OMS so this is telling me that a resistor has failed in one of the two modules they're in. I don't know where that are located