Leaderboard

You're right, strictly speaking, it should be coded. I've got an old OBDElevan, can't recall if it was possible using that, so will give that a try. If not then a local mech has vcds, so will give them a shout.

Glad to read the problem was non existant. However I believe you still need to code the new battery to the car despite maintaining 12 volts during the swap.

Hi Stevey Y, Thanks for your response. Indeed, I'm sure I did, but I believe I only changed the last digit & not the last 3. I've now learned that about the serial number, so that will come in handy. 🙂 I don't believe you can on my A4 B8 as it's non-UDS. You can only enter 10 or 11 digit part number, 1 or 2 spaces, the battery manufacturer, 1 space and then the 10 digit serial number. Yes, me too, but every battery supplier, aside from Tanya, suggested a 70Ah 760A battery, so I went by popular suggestion. As I said to cliffcoggin above, it wasn't until my engine continued to fail to start after I'd installed the A7 battery that I looked further into the suggestion of using the cars 'starter battery', which I learned was a 92Ah 520A. This is when I posted as above. Apologies, I should have clarified that I changed the pump in the tank around 3 years ago, less than 12k miles ago, for a new Bosch pump, so that shouldn't be an issue. I haven't physically tested it, which I will do tomorrow, but it's making all the right noises, at all of the right times and instances. There is a simple way to test the flow of that low pressure pump, by disconnecting from the HPFP and adding a plastic 500ml bottle; it should reach around 1/3 full when opening the door and after emptying, it should reach a little under 2/3 full when pressing the key. So watch this space on that. Thanks again, Paul.

Hi, £30 for pick up in Norwich area. Otherwise plus shipment costs.