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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/25/2025 in Posts

  1. Hi guys a quick update on my driving issues, turned out my injectors were the cause of my issues, I've put 440cc injectors in and it drives a lot better, due to a broken n75 valve im not getting much boost but I've a new one on the way, now do I get the car mapped again or get the original injectors serviced decisions decisions 🙃
  2. 1 point
    That's the thing though, the rubber coating on the sidewall has no strength in it, all the strength is from the carcass ply and steel belt plies. The rubber on the sidewall is to protect those from the elements, so if there not exposed then there is no degradation of the strength of the tyre.
  3. It was necessary I would expect a decent garage to have done it. It wouldn't hurt to phone the garage and ask.
  4. Perhaps Dean and Paul it would help to look through the relevent section of the forum for that marque to see what problems owners face, though bear in mind only bad news is written there. We rarely get to hear the good news.
  5. Hi Caroline, Have you checked the bonding around the top of the windscreen?
  6. Front bulkhead plenum drains block easily. They are rubber grommets. Get a torch and take a look. You will need to remove the plastic cowl next to windscreen. On the headlining, is there actual staining?
  7. 1 point
    When assessing cuts in a tyre, it is permissible to check whether a cut is deep enough to reach the ply or cord by using a blunt instrument to open the cut taking care not to cause further damage. The following criteria should be used when assessing a cut in a tyre: any ply or cord that can be seen without touching the tyre - fail if by folding back rubber or opening a cut with a blunt instrument, so as not to cause further damage, exposed ply or cord can be seen irrespective of the size of the cut - fail if a cut which is more than 25mm or 10% of the section width whichever is the greater, is opened with a blunt instrument and cords can be felt but not seen - fail Before failing a cut, you must make sure it’s the cords that you can feel not a foreign object. If you’re not sure, then you should pass and advise. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/5-axles-wheels-tyres-and-suspension#section-5-2-3 If cords or ply are not exposed then it shouldn't be a fail. The pic I posted above went through at least 1 MOT and wasn't even an advisory.
  8. Never heard of a roof rail issue as cause of water ingress on A6 or even A4 Avant, but never say never. If no panoramic, then that kind of rules the obvious culprit which I’ve dealt with before, however if the car has been subjected to heat, and I know there’s been some daft temperatures down south, then anything is possible. The fix won’t be straight forward, but leaving it, then you risk mould, damage to electrics, airbags and interior trim, etc. Wet seatbelts, is that at the mechanism lower down or higher up? The reason I’m asking is if there is wet staining higher up, you have no choice, you’ll need to drop the headlining. Prior to doing any of this, rule out blocked plenum drains. They live behind the bulkhead behind the engine under the wiper mechanism. Also check the rear spare wheel area where the space saver and amp lives, including both rear arch compartments. If it is leaking above, then you’d likely see condensation in the car. To drop headlining, you need to detach battery leads in boot, leave 30 mins. Most tools are anti-marr plastic trim tools, Torx screwdrivers, plus special tool for interior grab handles. You need to work clean. Light grey interior trim marks very easily with dirty hands, so clean tools, nitrile gloves, etc. I can post more details on the headlining drop but confirm some details first. The trouble is it’s labour intensive and most garages aren’t set up for this type of work, it’s really more a body shop thing.
  9. That's probably the best you can hope for in the circumstances. It may even prompt Audi into action.
  10. How long have you had the car in days? If under 300 days then you can easily reject the car. I would write an e-mail to the dealer informing them of your rights of rejection. These may help you. https://www.thecarexpert.co.uk/rejecting-a-car/ https://www.themotorombudsman.org/knowledge/what-are-a-consumers-legal-rights-when-buying-a-car/
  11. An additional fault popped up yesterday, one to add to the growing list. The rear/reversing camera no long works. I've contacted the lease company and notified them that I want to reject the vehicle. I accept things go wrong now and again, but surely it isn't normal to have so many issues with a brand new car.
  12. I hope yours gets sorted but for me the having no headlights in the dark and the car keep doing emergency braking when there is nothing in front of you is a issue and my neck cannot take more emergency braking stops.




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