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Welcome to the forum Kevin you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 Have you had a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up? If it's a petrol could it be faulty coil pack?

i will. wont be sorted till dec as im on holiday but ill post the outcome to all

Good luck with the switch. I suspect they are scarce for an 18 year old car.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

Here is an opportunity for an early Xmas present for someone with a A5/S5 sportback 8T 2008-2016. I have a set of roof bars to suit that model that I got in 2015 when I bought my car and have never been out of the box. Part # 8T8071126A I've found them while tidying the garage and they are no use to me as I sold my Sportback a couple of years ago. So they are going free* to the first member who can collect from Egham (Surrey) in said car. Please PM me if interested. *a festive beer token might be appreciated but is in no way expected!

The one symptom that stands out to me is the key becoming hot. That can only be caused by a high resistance at one of the switch contacts, and may be responsible every other symptom. I suggest you get the ignition switch replaced or repaired as the first step.

Finally found the two issues that were causing my problems 🤦🏻 Bit the bullet and bought a smoke tester on eBay. Two vac leaks, one was the brake booster (the check valve was also passing) and the other was the egr cooler solenoid. So I assume with the leak the egr solenoid wasn't opening the bypass door to allow the car to regen, so the car was constantly stuck trying to regen. Hopefully this helps anyone else with this issue.

It should run at a steady 90 after a few minutes and shouldn’t fluctuate. Worth getting the thermostat renewed. Whether that would cure your coolant leak is very debatable, but you have to have the car running at its optimum temperature.

The correct term is " resetting the BMS, ". Battery monitoring system " . It's not exactly coded in like a Led headlight would be for instance. In all my years dead AGM batteries won't recharge, infact if the charge levels drop too low ,it ruins an AGM battery . Also a battery that died in cold weather ,but was ok in warm weather was considered to be kaput!! Some cars, also keep track of the charging profile, and increase the voltage as the battery ages. On BMW/Audi, if you do not register the battery, they will overcharge and kill the new battery in a short time , if the BMS isn't reset. Maybe try Halfords if Audi prices are too high. They also offer a battery check.

Sorry for the delay in responding, it has taken a significant amount of time to find the issue with my car, I have now been informed by the garage that it’s an issue with the electronic steering lock mechanism, apparently this prevents the car from starting and links in with the immobiliser this has now been replaced and the car is now working.

@Magnet - 100% with you eliminating as much as possible 👍 I'd wrongly assumed checking the mounts would be a crawl-under-the-car job, but a bit of googling's given me a couple of easy checks, so I'll definitely give the mounts a check over, as well as checking for sticky brakes as you suggest. Cheers!

Unfortunately I don’t but I have access to abit more info which might be of use

Coding means matching the battery to the car's charging system so that it gets charged at the correct rate and to the right limit. It's a "feature" of modern cars that was unecessary years ago when cars did not have the delicate electronics that are present now. Coding is done with a computer gadget such as VCDS via the car's OBD diagnostic port. Skip the coding and you may damage the battery. A defective or dying battery can not store as much power as a new one, even though a simple no load voltage test may show 12.4 volts. You can get away with a weak battery much of the time when conditions are favourable, but the onset of winter always reveals the weakness because the power requirements at low temperatures are much greater. This time of year we always get a flood of queries about poor starting and other electrical problems which in many cases are because the battery is dying, which is why we have suggested getting the battery and alternator tested professionally.

A few variants but hope this is helpfull

very likely will fit. I have one from a 2011 car that fitted mine.