Leaderboard

My A3 2007 needed coding so I assume yours does as well. However I would expect a lack of coding to over charge the new battery not under charge it, so it's likely you still have a drain.

Thanks. I spoke to Volkscentre today and they do seem rather helpful. I’ll check out Swift though.

I`ve heard of that garage, I live very close. Another alternative who I have used on a few occasions are Swift autocentre in Westerhope, Newcastle.

Please let us know the outcome.

Quite possibly. If the car had adjusted itself to charge a low capacity battery then it seems to me that it will not charge a high capacity battery adequately. That's a bit speculative so I suggest you get some certainty at a dealer (Audi or independant) that can advise and code.

Mk3, 2017 TT, 1.8 Hi, I changed my battery yesterday and the fob wouldn't work after. The car would start using the touch point by the steering wheel, but doors, etc. were a no go. Scoured the web for a solution, not much info. Several that did not work for the push start / keyless fobs, but eventually found a solution that seemed too easy to be true but it worked. Just thought it would be worth sharing, as below: Get into the driver’s seat and close the door behind you while holding the key fob in your hand. Prepare to place one hand on the key fob and the other on the start button of the car. You’ll need to work rapidly, just like the processes mentioned before, so get ready for that. When you’re ready, quickly hit the start button on your car 15 times, with no more than two seconds passing between each try. Remember, you’re not actually trying to start the engine while doing this, so keep your foot off the brake. Press the lock button on your fob after the fifteenth button press. The car doors will lock and the fob will be fully functional if the pairing process was completed. If the attempt failed, it could be worthwhile to try it again to determine if there was a mistake in the first attempt. The timing of this strategy can be a little tricky and challenging to master the first time.

New on this forum and a new Audi owner!! Having recently purchased an RS6 (2017) i've noticed i don't seem to have DAB!! Is this usual? Or am i doing something wrong? As in the "wavelength" all that is displayed is FM/AM? Secondly would/could i be able to update the MMI system, maps etc? Thanks in advance 🙂

Hi , there is a pipe that slides in from the right . From memory the seal is approx 25mm diameter and approx 10mm width . I replaced it with a genuine one about £9 ( rip off ) and it leaked !!! Another couple of hours to strip back down . Use the old one and apply an appropriate sealer . We put the old one back on With sealer and 30k later still going strong . If you remove the manifold you will probably need a new gasket for that . I think manifold removal would be the easiest way to do it or take it to the garage that’s even easier 😂

Magnet thanks for the suggestions. my sensible car has always been a Toyota RAV4 and the Audi my “Fun” car. The Toyota garage is a small independent and as I’ve been going there for 30 years and bought new from them they have agreed to look at my car to see if they can identify where the water is coming from. I will update this thread with any solution I find in case it is of use to anybody.

Sorry all, should have posted this weeks ago but been busy helping mum, the lift in her flats is busted so she can’t get out! I cleaned the narrow trough the wind deflector seal sits in with cotton buds and glass cleaner (no residue). there are 2 small (about 1 1/2” long) leaf springs (1 either side), that help push the wind deflector up into position when you open the roof, there are 2 holes in the roof cassette under each of them as well, so they got the same treatment. the 2 coil springs (1 each side again), are a bit tricky to remove / replace but a bit of care and patience worked the 2nd time!🤦🏻‍♂️ I managed to drop the sides of the headliner but couldn’t release the front, so I could only reach in underneath for about 8”, I taped up the holes over the 1st 8” from each side of the car in the seal trough from underneath (bit tricky with tight access, best option I found was to use small bits of tape (about 1-2” long) on the end of 2 fingers!), then applied a generous squirt of black silicone adhesive sealant into the bits of the trough I’d taped up, refitted the leaf springs and wind deflector, (I used a couple of bits of wood to tap the seal down into the trough against the pressure of the silicone) and left it for 24hrs before testing with a watering can! make sure the seal sits right down into the trough, as I don’t think there’s much clearance when the roof closes. it’s worked though, no more water getting in. hipe this helps.

Never a truer word said!

Main dealers don’t teach their technicians how to find faults, they get taught how to use the diagnostic computer. There’s a big difference. leaks are basic engineering, which they just don’t seem to teach anymore!