56Doc

It went back to him twice, he thought it was a defective radar unit. So I had that checked by a local specialist that I know & trust, he confirmed it, so new one sourced, Swapped, coded & seperate re-aligned. Still doesn’t play full time. Audi retrofits only works Tues - Thurs most weeks & he’s 120 miles away from me, so a full day, early start & £50 return trip in fuel to get it to him! I am cross to say the least! he professes to fit the Adaptive cruise as a retrofit but it seems his skill & knowledge doesn’t extend to fault finding! But he’s messed this up completely. Went to him on a recommend too. I’m pretty certain the issue is in the wiring loom close to the RH unit, I’m just after any insights into any other connector in the engine bay that side for the radar unit. It’s only 3 cores, so once I get the air filter etc out the way & can get at the entire loom, I can just break into it & do a continuity check on the loom to the pins in the radar unit connector. I’m certain there’s a ‘stretch’ break in it somewhere close to the unit connector, where he disconnected it to remove the number, I just need to prove it then find it, replacing, repairing &/or extending those 3 cores is a simple job once I can get in there.

It was done by Audi retrofits in Slough.

Hi folks, Need to pick yr brains on this one; I had my headlights upgraded to LEDs, but that meant removing the front bumper. That did something to the radar units &/or wiring. I’ve had to replace one radar unit, which now works but there is still an intermittent ent fault in that the adaptive cruise will just randomly switch & display the error message, ‘xxxx not available, no sensor vision’. Now, I’ve check to left hand unit & plug contacts, all good, the Right unit contacts should be as it’s been swapped, However, there’s zero slack in the cable run on the right, so I’m thinking that one of the wires or connections has been strained or partially broken. So, has anyone here had to delve into that wiring loom at all? I’m wondering if there’s another connector behind the bumper, or any advice on how to check the continuity on those cores? I haven’t dived in yet, we’re away for a week now then I need the car for the next week, so I’m hoping for some insight from you guys before I dive into it in August! Cheers folks!

Usually, electronic systems/units either fail fairly soon after build, or go on forever. Very few will fail ‘in service’, what we used to call a ‘bathtub’ failure curve, light a very wide U, high to start with, drops very low, very quickly & remains low until it’s close the end of it’s designed life when it shoots up again. It’s quite likely you were simply unlucky and, sadly, vehicle technicians are no longer taught how to fault find, they are only taught how to plug in a diagnostic computer. So if that can’t find the fault, neither can they!

No, it’s been fine ever since in that respect but had an ACC radar unit went duff when the headlights were replaced (for LEDs). Still not right. Guy that did the headlights messed something up, mechanical alignment we think. it's just figuring out what exactly & correcting it. 90% of the way there! But not impressed tbh, especially as he Advertises that he can retrofit ACC systems. It went back to him twice too before he admitted he couldn’t align them as he didn’t have the kit! But again, Audi unit £1700 & 3 months back order, bought one from Hong Kong £300 (a lot of Audis electronics are made in China anyway! ). That sort of stuff on military ships used to be my day job, small radar units like cost very little, Hong Kong price is still about 20% profit by my reckoning. But I’ve found that before. Suspension Air pump for a previous 2004 (same as used by RR, Mercedes, Bentley etc, Audi price, £1100 + VAT + fitting, 3 hours! Bought from the US manufacturer, $300 (so about £250) & took 45 mins in a friends garage with a pit to replace! £50!

Hi John, I run a 2015 A6 Allroad, about 3 years I had a similar issue, drove into town & on the way back, dash lit up like a Xmas tree. No power steering, faults everywhere. Pulled it over (hard with no power steering! Switched off, waited, started again but still the same. But it started, wrestled it home, literally at about 15 mph. When I got it to the garage (non franchised specialist), it was also the steering rack or module. 6 months backorder from Audi & £2.5k! Luckily, he had a used one from a low mileage RS6 (same spec) he’d bought to do a car up but sold the car when someone made an offer he couldn’t refuse. So that sorted me out. But, nothing they’ve built since has really stirred any desire for another Audi, although the Q6 e-tron came close (until now! ). But for any spares to be unavailable within a week or so is pathetic! I was lucky that time but don’t think I want another Audi now. I’m torn between keeping the Allroad for some years or going to just an EV (I run an Enyaq too to stop me wrecking the Audi [Diesel] with short journeys, no commuting since I retired). But the Enyaq can’t replace the Audi for my long trips away with 17’ kayaks on the roof + all the other kit! It’s just Soo comfortable & easy rpthe drive and there’s limited choice of decent large EV estates on the used market at my budget just now. (Just the ID7).

Sorry Steve , I left you another message. I’d got my messages about canoes (I’ve asked a number of clubs) crossed. This canoe I want isn’t in Nottingham, it’s in Runcorn!🤦🏻‍♂️ I’m really sorry. I’ll let you know when I’m next heading to my sisters in Northampton.

Steve, I’m really sorry, for some odd reason I’d thought this canoe was in Nottingham, it’s not, it’s in Runcorn! Got my messages well crossed! Abject apologies. I’ll let you know when I’m next due to go up to my sisters in Northampton.

Great, I’ll sort my travel times etc & let you know once the canoe club responds. Thanks Steve.

I can ask the canoe club if I can get this canoe on the Sunday instead! Would Sunday work for you?

I’m doing a canoe race on the 13th on the Wye from Ross-on-Wye!

Hi Steve, How are you? I’m looking to get up to Nottingham sometime time next week (don’t know exactly when yet, that’s down to when I can get into Notts kayak club, could be the weekend ), to buy a racing kayak, so could bring the wheels up then if you’re still interested in them?

There’s an aftermarket upgrade to the MMI & maps you can get. Not sure if it dies anything with the DAB radio but you could ask: Satnavmapupdates.co.uk MMIupdates.com I used the 1st one to update my maps but don’t know if it did anything to the radio.

Look up the website - ‘Satnavmapupdate’ I’ve used them for both MMI & map updates via an SD card. Worked flawlessly.

Hi Ryan, I don’t have a clue BUT, I know someone who might! Lukas at Autotek in Clevedon, he’s an Audi specialist, runs an old RS himself. I’m sure he could help but you might have to get the car to him. Look them up but Their tel no is: 01275 873693

That means it was just dirty contacts, WD 40 washes some of that off but it leaves a sticky residue that will collect & hold dust & dirt over time. Weeks, maybe months. So it’s best to get some contact cleaning fluid (any electrical or car parts supplier should carry it) to wash off the wd40. (Think of wd40 as a sticking plaster).

This is what google says about it. Yes, wheels from a 2011 Audi A6 Allroad (C6/C7 generation) are generally compatible with a standard 2011 Audi A6 . Both vehicles share the same 5x112 bolt pattern, a 66.5 or 66.6 mm center bore, and similar wheel offsets. However, there are important factors to consider regarding tire size and overall fitment: Bolt Pattern & Hub: Both cars use a 5x112 bolt pattern and a 66.5mm (or 66.6mm) center bore, ensuring they will physically bolt onto the hub. Allroad vs. Sedan/Avant Specs: The Allroad often uses a slightly different offset to accommodate its wider stance, and it typically runs a taller tire profile (e.g., 225/55R17 or 245/45R18) than a standard sedan. Tire Size Differences: While the rims fit, the tires on the Allroad might be wider or taller than what is recommended for a standard A6, which could lead to speedometer inaccuracies or rubbing if the car is lowered. Suspension Clearance: If you are using the Allroad wheels and the original Allroad tires, the tires may look too "meaty" or tall on a standard A6. Conclusion: The rims will fit perfectly, but you may need to swap to standard A6 tire sizes for optimal performance and appearance on a non-Allroad model.

Looking for something else I spotted these, which may answer the question! https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&source=web&cd=&ved=0CJIBEI_yBGoXChMImI3CkfLbkwMVAAAAAB0AAAAAEAs&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2F167550624099%3Fchn%3Dps%26_ul%3DGB%26mkevt%3D1%26mkcid%3D28%26google_free_listing_action%3Dview_item&psig=AOvVaw32W3rca_2Syqfki2fm062W&ust=1775656468793744&opi=89978449

Thanks Steve, fortunately all Ok, little one had become very jaundiced then there were issues at the hospital. Daughter is still very distraught. It’s been hell for them but little one is fine.

Niether did I!🤦🏻‍♂️

There’s another useful site I found.: Tire size.com to compare different tyre & wheel sizes. However, there is a better site, I’ve lost the link but it had vehicle details in too, so it could check which offsets fitted, bodywork/suspension & brake callipers clearances too. Try a google search, although I suspect 17” wheels may fit that M.Y. Brake callipers & discs being the big issue. (I think it was only the 1998-2005 models that used 17” & 18” wheels.). Not certain though. if you can’t fit smaller alloys, some winter tyre suppliers can also provide a set of steel wheels, which may be an option & they may know if you can fit 17” wheels.

Hi Steve,,my car is post facelift, so the headlights wont hysically fit yours anyway.

That’s a rough way to find out about an accident!. When I got mine, it was missing heated seats, so I Bought a set of heated & ventilated seats from Germany, then when it went up to Audi Retrofits I had the 360 camera & matrix headlights fitted, but the battery went flat, it then it developed an ACC radar problem. A month later & after a new battery (£300!), A trip up to Hereford showed up a cooling issue! So I can’t use it just now. It’s 11 yrs old now but only just over 80k miles. I love it, even though I run an EV for all the local stuff & to see if I could use an ev exclusively. (So far, I don’t think so!) So the Audi will stay for a few years yet (I’ve had it 4.5 yrs now.) Reckon it’s the best car I’ve ever had, just not cheap to maintain! 😆

From what google said, it maybe just some levelling sensors but it might be worth asking someone with a lot more knowledge if they can be by-passed in vcds to a default setting. I use an Audi specialist in Somerset, so I can ask him Tuesday about it all if that helps. But, what’s wrong with yours?

I asked google too, sadly it doesn’t look quite as easy as you’d hoped! So you’d need someone to do the Vcds coding & possibly fit suspension level,sensors, although I suspect there’s a way round the sensors bit. AI Overview +3 Retrofitting a non-xenon (halogen) 2012–2018 Audi A6 with OEM xenon headlamps generally requires VAG-COM/VCDS coding to avoid errors. While the physical units fit, the car needs to be coded to handle different resistance (cold/hot checks), headlight levelling, and shutter mechanisms for bi-xenon function . Without coding, you may experience flickering or dash errors. Reddit +1 Key Considerations for Retrofitting: Coding Required: You must update the Central Electronics (09), Instrument Cluster (17), and CAN Gateway (19) to recognize the new xenon systems and disable halogen-specific monitoring. Hardware Changes: Full OEM functionality often requires more than just the light housing, including new suspension sensors for auto-levelling. Plug-and-Play Alternatives: Some aftermarket bi-xenon kits with dedicated CANbus wiring harnesses can work without coding, though they are not factory-grade solutions. Connector Differences: Halogen to Xenon swaps typically require adapters for the different wiring harnesses. For a reliable retrofit, you should plan to use a tool like VCDS to map the new headlights, or you may face ongoing bulb-out warnings or improperly functioning shutter systems.