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Alex. Search these forums for problems related to "mild hybrid". In particular see https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/24906-alternator-failure-related-to-mild-hybrid-system Personally I would not touch one with a barge pole in view of Audi's outrageous behaviour to its customers.

As with any diesel used mainly for short journeys you can expect DPF problems at some point.

Can’t find specific details, but this brochure from 2016 shows the model line up. PDF brochure By 2016, the Q5 2.0 TDI was available in (150PS) and (190PS) engines or 3.0TDI 258PS. All were 7-speed S Tronic transmissions. They need serviced every 38k miles, which is fluids and filters. Seems the 8-speed Tiptronic box was only available on the TFSI models or BiTDI on SQ5. 2014 models may have been different, and the top of the range 2.0 TDI was probably 177PS or there about. 2.0 TDI would be belt driven, so new toothed drive belt and water pump every 5 years or 60k miles. On 3.0 TDI, suspect it’s chain driven and good for life of car, however they can get chain rattle or stretch if not maintained properly. Pretty sure by 2013/14 Ad Blue was fitted to make them Euro 6 compliant. So you’ll have EGR, DPF, cats, etc. Car needs to have been serviced regularly. If it’s been on a daft 18k long service intervals, or missing history, walk away. Real life mpg, basically these are heavy 4x4 SUVs who don’t expect anything mind blowing, probably 40-50mpg in summer, worse around town, and during winter. The difference between 2.0TDI and 3.0TDI is power delivery and low end torque. If you plan to tow, then 3.0TDI would be a good shout. With all diesels, then they don’t like short run trips or you run the risk of clogged DPF and EGRs. As long as they are doing long trips too to help DPF regenerate, that will keep things ticking over. Use a can of Forte fuel conditioner on nearly empty and change the fuel filter afterwards (every 20k miles), plus Forte anti-crystal on every AdBlue top up. I’d also say use premium diesel. Do your research before parting cash. Also consider VCDS to scan any prospective car. This holds all fault codes unless they have been cleared. Very useful tool down the line if you DIY service, fuel pump, rear electro mechanical brake reset, etc.

Possibly, but it may be better to have the car scanned to find any underlying or systemic faults.

Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones. p.s. Please avoid using non specific locations such as U.K., England etc. etc.

I think you should fight this considering there are a number of us with cars out of warranty where Audi have paid the labour. In my case they paid the recovery charges £300 plus cost of repair and labour plus a courtesy car for a week. Don’t let them off the hook.