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All now fixed. The sensors can be replaced without taking off the bumper. In my case the actual faulty one was on the corner, just take the 6 visible torx T25 screws out of the lower side and corner of the wheel arch liner and put a hand in the gap; unclip the sensor (took a bit of effort as the clips are strong and difficult to get purchase, see note below). Then withdraw and unplug. Plug in the new one and refit. A bit of silicon grease helped the new one in as it was a tight fit. The inner front one was damaged but still worked; but replaced just in case. Can be accessed thru the grill with small fingers. For both a bit of strong nylon string looped around the clip and pulled from below gently allowed the sensor to be pushed out, on the one in grille it was simple but for the one on the corner fed it up thru a handy slot in the plastic. Overall time to change about 10mins each one.

Normal regeneration is every 300 miles and is linked to ash/soot level once it gets to 40-45%. Normally after a decent journey, when car is up to temperature, then it will kick in. On stop/start, then it can be switched off via VCDS software. Car is new to you, and on 160k, so anything is possible. Yes, you can manually disable too via instrument switch, but that would reset, each time. A weak battery could also be attributed. You’re doing well to get 7-8 years from a battery now, and cars are susceptible to voltage drops. New ones are usually AGM and coded to the car. On cold, not started, with a multimeter, you should be getting 12.4-12.7V. VCDS software isn’t just for scans, as mentioned, you can prime fuel filter, retract rear electro-mechanical brake for new discs, perform learn process if you were replacing sunroof motor for example, add sweep on rev counter on start up, dip passenger wing mirror on reverse, etc. Something to consider down the line.

Thought I would follow up on this post, just in case anyone else had the same issue, I’ve picked up my car from a Audi dealer and they updated the software which has resolved the flickering issue.

Forgot to mention, its a timing belt too. Personally speaking, 5 years or 60k miles for interval. Change tensioner pulley and water-pump at the same time. These are very good engines and will run for years if properly maintained. Change oil annually (5w30) or by 10k miles. VCDS is diagnostic software available via Gendan. No real issues with these cars. Panoramic sunroofs are known to leak. If bi-xenon headlights (better than halogen projectors), then headlight washers should work. Rear spring seats corrode. Check the exhaust central clamps (usually rust through), replace with stainless Mykalor clamps. Brake calipers if still original suffer oxide corrosion that forces dust sleeve to swell and you end up with sticky caliper, brakes overheating. I rebuilt mine with Budweg kit.

Hi Meera and thanks for your response to my post. I choose to believe that no other responses means there is no best option so I will follow my instincts and go for a 225 BAM Quattro however with my 1988 Coupe GT occupying the garage the TT would be outside most of the time so I need a Coupe and not a Roadster. I had a 150 FWD Roadster a few years back and that was a lot of fun. Yours looks great with great history but as I'm not interested in buying I would say that at £1200 you are greatly under pricing it. I have been looking for some months now and prices are rising for good ones with good history. I think with the history you have and the apparent condition (plus summer is near) I would at least double that price or maybe even chance it at treble for a while. I wish you luck!

Hi Again, I found that the toolkit was very robust. I'm sure you will find it ok.

Euro 5 common rail diesel engine (177PS), no AdBlue. However will have DPF, EGR, cat, etc. Tail pipes shouldn't be sooty. Any indication of turbo or actuator work in history? Engine will normally regenerate after a long drive once up to temperature. Car should have start stop. If that's not working, it's either been disabled, or needs regen. If you're concerned about emissions, add Forte diesel conditioner to the fuel tank when you're on low fuel light and drive hard for 10-20 miles. Replace the fuel filter (lives under the driver's side). Mann filters are very good. Few underbody fasteners to remove to get to it. Assuming you don't have VCDS, (as there's a prime function), then engage ignition to hear fuel pump prime (but don't start), a 5-6 times to prime it. Top up with some premium diesel and see if situation improves.

Ask away! If we know the answer then we'll sure help 🙂

Hi I don’t think I can truly answer your question regarding which TT is the best between 1999-2005, but I’m selling mine which is a 2001, 225 BAM quattro☺️ and its fun to drive! I just posted it today happy to answer any questions and open to offers thanks!

Good morning Scott, Fortunately, you don’t have to concern yourself with the potential rights or wrongs of this issue, or the reason for the wrongs - if wrong. All you need to do is to book it in and get it sorted under warranty. Please let us know how you get on. Regards, Gareth.

I do t think it's normal. I think it'll need a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up