Stevey Y

1 hour ago, coupe4 said:

hi matty thanks for your reply,the guy who done the compression test said on bank 2 he was getting 6 bar where as on bank 1 he was getting 15 or 16 bar,the previous owner is very surprised to hear about this issue as he said it drove into the spot with no issues,the fuel pump was knackered when i got the car so i fitted a new one thinking it would run but now ive this problem

Hi try pm to Audia4KEV he may well know of an engine.

Steve.

7 hours ago, Jake1991 said:

Good morning
I would be eternally grateful if anybody can help with a very annoying issue I have with the air blowers. When I set the blowers to the dashboard vents, air comes out of the passenger side and middle vents but not the drivers. Instead the air comes through the footwell vent on the drivers side and not the dashboard vent. To make it even more confusing, when I set the blowers to to the footwell it stops coming out of the drivers side and only comes out the passenger side. I assume its some kind of distribution flap motor or something. Does anyone have any idea or can help.

Thank you

Hi think your aircon needs a degass had the same with mine and it was low refrigerant, its probably got a leak and if you look where the radiator is it might as well have a sign on it, Road Debris hit me.

Steve.

7 hours ago, jayformhu said:

Hi Steve,

Thank you for the reply!

By reseting the trans you mean I should go trough the "pedal" method? Which method should I use? Last time it didn't work for me or I just couldn't feel a difference in the trans' behavior. I also have a VCDS so I could use that as well but I'm not sure if it's a great idea for me to do so.

Also I guess I might be kind of a bad guy in this as well because in the past few months I've barely driven it on motorways or main roads and it was a combination of city drives and driving to neighboring cities that are 15mins from me. When the MTF/ATF oil changed was done they redone the adaptation and the car was a dream back then.

Thanks!

Hi maybe it needs adapting again if you have VCDS there are plenty of how to do its on YouTube.

Steve.

4 hours ago, jpskiller said:

Yup, from a trader, and checked battery, its orginal 2015, new on order

Pleeeeeeease code the new battery.

Steve.

4 hours ago, jpskiller said:

Got VCDS figures now if any help:

Engine off car not used in over 2hrs

Voltage (Terminal 30) 12.10V
Battery Current -4.6A
Battery State (of charge SoC) 62%
Battery Ageing (Derived fr.Load) 54%
Battery Ageing (Derived fr.Output) 51%
Internal Battery (Resistance-Actual) 5.4 mOhm
Battery Cpacity (actual/available) 25.Ah

Engine On

Voltage (Terminal 30) 13.50V
Battery Current 12v
Battery State (of charge SoC) 62%
Battery Ageing (Derived fr.Load) 54%
Battery Ageing (Derived fr.Output) 51%
Internal Battery (Resistance-Actual) 5.4 mOhm
Battery Cpacity (actual/available) 25.Ah

Hi I would from these figures assume the battery is well on its way anything below 85% SOC and with availability of 25AH is definitely wrong, how old is the battery?

Steve.

4 hours ago, jayformhu said:

Hi everyone,

I have a 2013 Audi A4 B8.5 Avant 2.0 TDI 177PS quattro with the 7-speed S tronic gearbox. I would like to ask for some opinions from people who have experience with this drivetrain.

The main thing I notice is that on A-road/main road driving, especially around 55–70 mph (90–110 km/h), the gearbox sometimes seems to hunt between 6th and 7th gear. It mostly happens with small throttle changes, slight inclines, or when I try to maintain a steady speed around 60–65 mph (roughly 100 km/h). It feels like the car is not fully sure whether it wants to stay in 7th for economy or drop back to 6th for more torque.

If I drive a bit more positively or at motorway speeds, the car feels great. Above about 70 mph (110 km/h) it is smooth, stable and the gearbox feels much more natural. The issue is mostly in that light-load cruising zone on main roads.

There are no warning lights and no gearbox fault messages. When I bought the car, the gearbox behaviour bothered me more, but a throttle/pedal reset seemed to improve it quite a lot. Later the S tronic oil service was also done, and that improved the overall feel as well. At the time I was told that this is more or less normal behaviour for this gearbox/drivetrain, so I accepted it.

The car also recently had a professional DPF cleaning/refitting job done. No DPF removal or performance remap as far as I know, just cleaning and related work. I am not sure if this is relevant, but I thought I should mention it in case DPF condition, regeneration behaviour, engine load, ECU adaptation/reset, or torque request could have any influence on how the gearbox decides between 6th and 7th. The gear hunting itself was not completely new after the DPF work, but I have started paying more attention to it recently.

I also sometimes notice a slight bump/jerk in stop-and-go traffic when accelerating with the queue and then lifting off the throttle to let the car slow down on engine braking. It is not a huge bang, but it can be felt as a drivetrain knock/torque reversal. It seems worse in situations where the car is crawling and the throttle is applied and released repeatedly.

My questions are:

• Is this 6th/7th gear hunting around 55–70 mph (90–110 km/h) normal for the DL501/S tronic in a 2.0 TDI quattro?

• Could this be mostly gearbox calibration/normal behaviour, or should I suspect adaptation, engine/gearbox mounts, drivetrain play, mechatronics, clutch adaptation, etc.?

• Could DPF condition/regeneration/ECU adaptation have any effect on this kind of light-load gear hunting, or is that unlikely?

• Would a proper S tronic adaptation/basic setting with VCDS or ODIS be worth doing, or is it better not to touch it if there are no faults?

• For those with similar cars, how does your gearbox behave around 60–65 mph (around 100 km/h) in D mode on slight inclines or with small throttle changes?

• Is there anything specific I should check before worrying about the gearbox itself?

I am not looking to immediately rebuild the gearbox or overreact, I just want to understand whether this is normal S tronic character or something that should be investigated further.

Any experience with A4/A5/Q5 B8/B8.5 2.0 TDI or 3.0 TDI quattro S tronic cars would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Hi just try a gearbox reset that may well help with this, having the DPF cleaned won't affect the gearbox, normally after a gearbox service they do a reset so all the mechatronics can relearn its values.

Steve.

8 minutes ago, crashoverride said:

I apologize if I came across rude. However often times over the years I've found some less than helpful people think they are helping by saying just run the diagnostic scan and basically don't bother us until you've done such. It's an obvious statement that helps no one.

However the diagnostic scan can be both very telling and very misleading.

As for the diagnostic scan, of course several have been done and it is kicking out every bad fuel pump code and fuel related code and then some. Nothing that would narrow down the problem. From misfires, to running lean to it doesn't matter as we know the fuel pump isn't happy and none of the codes has led us to a fix and believe me we've chased every code down.

In my instance I have what they are referring to as a "New engine" it probably didn't come down the official Audi line and might have a few remanufactured or aftermarket parts. I'm not here to quibble but it sure is pretty and appears to have never been used. All I know is it was bench tested and fired up and run before it was shipped and my problems do not indicate the engine itself to be the problem.

So hence the problem. How do I find someone to respond to my question with something other than a flippant read the codes response who couldn't even be bothered with reading the detailed words I wrote (the person I responded to is obviously not going to be the person to be able to provide any meaningful help) I know we all want to help, but sometimes posting when you don't know much can actually derail a discussion and get in the way of getting the very real problem solved.

I guess I'm posting and looking for someone and people input that can say hey that's weird and here is how I overcame something similar. It might be when my buddy installed an engine this is what was done wrong or we overlooked that other thing that then gave codes and caused the fuel pump to not work right.

Cars are complex unfortunately codes are not always the holy grail solution that weekend backyard mechanics think they are. What happened to being able to have a meaningful conversation and discussion sharing of experiences etc. without being fixated on code reading.

Hi the idea of publishing the codes you have is to narrow down the components that may be causing this, you say that the vehicle was laid up for two years and you have blown two HPFPs therefore I would suggest that the high pressure side is in overrun which is eminently checkable on live data, my guess is that its the fuel pressure regulator playing about, this meters the fuel pressure within the rail and is electro mechanical therefore it can stick slightly and cause insufficient fuel to the rail causing flat spots or stick wide open and the HPFP tries to keep up with what it thinks is demand, the return system just loses what it won't use, using live data check the rail pressure at idle and then through the rev range and see if the figures add up, don't know what the rail pressures should be ideally on the DETA engine you have but I know if the lift pump in the tank is high around 600lpm you have a problem further up.

Steve.

4 hours ago, cliffcoggin said:

It's true I can not help you Josh if you are not prepared to either do any testing or provide suitable information to aid a possible diagnosis. If all you want is speculation and guesses then you don't need my help. After all you claim to be "fairly car literate and I'm usually able diagnose and know the problem..."

I looked up Power Engines and saw the company supply new and re-conditioned engines, so can you be sure the engine you received was genuinely new? The company lists this for your car:

https://powerengines.com/collections/all?filter.p.m.custom.make=Audi&filter.p.m.custom.model=Q5&filter.p.m.custom.year_multi_selects=2016

The price of $3199 is impossibly low for a brand new engine, even before it is shipped from Germany, so what do you conclude from that?

Hi the engine could well have been new or classed as such under American consumer law despite being classed as refurbished in the U.K. , the other key bits of information such as milage of the original unit would affect the value of bolting well worn parts on to a new bare unit, my suspicion is someone has used a faulty/old gasket in the system or fitted parts incorrectly, this particular poster seems very reticent to provide answers to simple questions that are simple building blocks towards diagnosis, why these people come to this forum requesting help and then abuse the person trying to help is beyond me, they expect a solution with the minimum of Information and then throw their toys out of the pram when they don't get what they want to hear, he has probably run out of sites to abuse in the states, so now its our turn, lucky us.

Steve.

2 minutes ago, Nelly26 said:

The video is fine to watch its from my phone! Nothing dodgy but many videos are saying its a flange but i feel its a pipe video really helps

Hi tried to watch the video but it won't play maybe a photo would be better?

Steve.

19 minutes ago, Zacy2566 said:

The A/c has stopped working. If it’s a hot day it just blows warm air regardless if it is set on cold.

Hi I would get someone else to check if the system has any gas in it, most independent garages have a decent aircon machine and will check it by seeing if it has ay gas and then pressure checking the system for leaks chances are its either run low on gas or has a hole in the radiator either way Cliff was correct when he said they can't block, therefore I would give the ZOONS at Halfords a wide birth.

Steve.

3 hours ago, Jon c said:

Mines done the same. Adblue fault. Got a feeling it’s going to need replacing.

Also having juddering every time I turn left and right. They changed the oil before. But looks like it’ll need a new transfer case. All this at 37k on the clock. My first Audi. Not really impressed as the car is so nice to drive and looks the part too. Got another 2 years warranty and will probably get rid after that.

Are Audi’s unreliable these days?

Hi the newer Audis are mostly the same, not good except for possibly Q3s that use mostly VW engines and running gear, in saying that most car manufacturers are having the same cost cutting driven problems with the exception of Toyota that consistently produce good reliable vehicles, not as plush as the Audi but why pay that money for the A4/A6 with no inherent reliability.

Steve.

9 hours ago, spartacus 68 said:

Look up your own car via LLL parts, especially the stock steering wheel and take a note of the part number. Now cross reference that with other steering wheel variants of the same model up to the final build year, which I think was 2015. They should all be compatible.

Auto electricians, recoding, sounds like a lot of work.

Hate to point this out but even if you fit a new steering angle sensor you have to recode it, if it sounds like a lot of work, its not half as much work if you don't get the wiring right as well as the coding, the electronics on these vehicles has always been complex and if you fry a body control module [any one of about five] you then have a serious problem.

Steve.

30 minutes ago, Peter aeddon said:

Hi I’ve got start stop not working engine management light on dash

Says contact dealer

Hi it always says that, thats how they make money, you could try getting your garage to open the bonnet before plugging it in, if that won't work you are going to have to go the VCDS or OBDEleven route as both these have the capability to generate the challenge code to get in,

Steve.

49 minutes ago, Peter aeddon said:

Hi I’ve been told by my garage that he can’t get into diagnostics as it’s locked Why is this done as I think this is illegal and how do I get it unlocked

The lock is called SFD and any car post 19 that is VAG has it, most garage scanners won't touch it except if they have a newer platform software VCDS or similar OBDEleven pro which is the cheapest option, what are they trying to repair.

Steve.

22 minutes ago, cockneyrick said:

Stage 1 about 3 years ago. Most other improvements are wheels, Interior leather, S/wheel & brakes.

Hi that would do it, the remap has possibly done the damage as the pistons on these EA111 engines have a weak point insomuch as increased boost pressure and fuelling cause the ring grooves to fail and bits fall off of the castings where the rings locate which is probably why you have compression failure, having spoken to my garage they reckon timing chain tensioners can fail anywhere between 40k-60k which probably explains why in a short time they phased this engine out and bought in an upgraded belt driven engine.

Steve.

19 hours ago, Zajjja said:

Hi guys so I have Audi a6 4g c7 2014 2.0 ultra diesel. Long story short my romanian mehanic thought it would be smart to replace this part in pyro fuse with handsaw blade and my battery have cought fire and burned some cables.Now i have replaced all mains battery cables but i'm having hard time finding where does these small cabels goes when I connect my battery I have power on all thing except my control panel and when i try to start my car it just won't do anything so If anyone would help me I would be thankfull for a picture of battery cabes and photo of these tiny cabes to see where do they go

P.S Sorry for my bad English I am from Bosnia

Hi I think you need an auto electrician to sort this one out but I have a sneaking suspicion the comfort control modules have possibly been fried as they don't like water or being shorted to earth, my advice is tell the mechanic he has to pay for the fix.

Steve.

8 hours ago, GiannisTz said:

Hey I have a Audi A4 B8 and I want to change my steering wheel. I bought a new one online and it was suposed to work . Unfortunately It seems that the connectors are not the same and hence dont fit . From my knowledge and research the airbag code comes from a A1 . Some people told me that I just need to change the airbag not the whole wheel . Others told me i have to change both . Others told me that I might be able to rewire the harness . Could you give me some insight on this matter ? See images bellow for reference ! Please any help would be useful .

Hi you can't just swap the airbag module as the steering wheel originally fitted is completely different, an auto electrician could probably sort the wiring but the new wheel would need coding in and thats if you don't need another control module.

Steve.

5 hours ago, cockneyrick said:

So my 2013 1.4tfsi has been into 2 garages for coolant loss & random "Stop engine low pressure" light.

First garage said head gasket & quoted £3,055 for the work, but they added w/pump & belt plus timing chain on a 60k engine.

Second garage concurred but refused the job saying Tfsi engines were rubbish & couldn't guarantee it was head gasket alone! And fitting another engine would cost 3-5k!

Third was online community who all say both are a joke, & a few mentioned the intake manifold cooler as possible reason?

So sniff test done & failed, compression test & failed (none said what readings were or what cylinder(s) )

Now it's losing coolant rapidly, however there's no white smoke, oil is still clean & runs absolutely fine with no misfires.

Car on a good day could fetch 5-6k due to improvements made over 4 years i've had it. Now stuck on what to do or go next? I live in Crewe & no particular VAG specialists nearby other than official garage.

Hi if its failed a sniff test its academic the gasket is leaking, I personally would do the same as the first garage if you take in to account that the head will most likely need a skim to correct any surface defects, then the valve seats would need to be lapped in, the timing chain is worth doing as even at 60k its probably stretched and the guides will be worn, factor in possible bore wear and you have the potential for a catastrophic wallet failure, from memory these engines were not good from new and if driven hard don't generally take to much action, you also mentioned improvements, one of them was not mapping was it?

Steve.

11 minutes ago, dutchy87 said:

Hi all,

I had had my front pads and discs and rear pads replaced last week. (Not by Audi as they wanted over 1k) There's been an intermittent faults of the pre sense not working then into main beam assist fault, followed by lane assist disabled and and adaptive light fault.

Daft question but could this be linked?

I also took it in for a software update (to Audi) for dodgy door locks

Any help is appreciated

Cheers

Ryan

Hi I doubt the brake change caused this it could well be the update or the camera mounted in the screen.

Steve.

1 minute ago, enc said:

Im not sure steve, it was just a direct replacement.

Im thinking of putting the original valve back in until Audi can get me an OEM replacement.

Hi might well be with doing if the pressure slows down it may well be the valve, how many miles has the car done as around that year they are famous for burning oil where they used skinny oil control rings, problem is they let oil up but also down which pressurises the sump, fingers crossed its the aftermarket valve.

Steve.

2 hours ago, enc said:

2012, 1.4 tfsi

Im topping up the oil more than i used too...seemingly a common issue with these engines .

To start with, its worth replacing the PCV valve apparently. In the absence of Audi UK not having stock i opted for an unbranded aftermarket replacement.

On reaching home after my commute this evening, i noticed a flute like noise coming from the valve/hose?!

Ive attached a short video clip ... any suggestions?

Thanks in advance

Hi are you sure the new valve has a diaphragm in it the worrying thing is the amount of pressure coming out of the valve.

Steve.

2 hours ago, Duane1611 said:

Thanks for everyone's advice, was very helpful. I did some youtubing and realised it's way above my talent level. But almost certain it is the cooler gasket. Booked it in with my Audi man but can't see it for 3 weeks so off the road for now. I'll update when it's fixed 👍

Head gaskets would be a whole new world of wallet pain but your description was very precise giving no indication of system pressurising, looking forward to a glowing success.

Steve.

7 hours ago, Bobby Dazzler said:

Hi all, can anyone tell me how to code Lithuanian Injectors to a UK car. Stupidly it seems, I bought a complete fuel system fromLithuania. When trying to code using the 7 digit code from the injector VCDS tells me it the wrong country code and I know have FFFFFFF. Is there a possible workaround. I jad just replaced the HP fuel pump. Easy enough but a lot of work as im sure many of you are aware. Any advice even telling me ive wasted £900 buying the complete fuel system. Thanks in advance

Hi I don't think you have wasted your money, find another C7 and use the codes from that as far as I am aware the coding number is an acceptance code to let the ECU know its had a new unit, the injectors are all the same and once accepted will re learn their values very quickly.

Steve.

4 hours ago, Duane1611 said:

In worried it might be too late. I've done probably 30 miles of (genuinely) gentle driving, haven't driven it since I realised what was happening. I'm really hoping a good flush will be enough, the engine sounded normal last time I drove it.

I'm going to book it in tomorrow and find what the actual damage is, mechanically and financially... I'll update tomorrow 😕

Hi don't worry it only gets critical when you reach the level of a pint of water per pint of oil then the ends rattle and the valve gear rattles as there is not enough lubrication for the lifters, I am quietly confident it is no where near terminal, seen worse where its cooked the head and big end bearings, did a Vauxhall Astra a while ago, same problem but worse and two gallons of flushing oil and three filters its still doing a nightly commute to London no issues.

Steve.

3 minutes ago, Duane1611 said:

Mmm, will speak to my audi specialist but I suspect it's beyond me.

Hi just had a look on line and its a Barsteward inlets off and the worlds supply of crud underneath the unit which sits in the middle at the top, easy enough to get to but a multitude of Torx fixings, all different lengths for certain holes so you have to draw a map of what goes where and a murderous amount of new o rings, only reason I think this is the problem is lack of reassure from expansion tank therefore not head related and you water is being fed into the oil system which is not good for any bearing within the engine so it will need a double engine flush after fixing to clear it all out.

Steve.