Stevey Y

23 minutes ago, Davidacarrick said:

Also air intake pipe from maf to engine has been changed. This was apparently collapsing under acceleration so changed some time ago 

The only other thing I can think of is the low pressure EGR valve butterfly is clogged and may be slightly open, they are monitored but wont throw a code unless stuck completely, did you check the pipes were clear before fitting new sensors.

5 hours ago, BinksyBinks said:

Hi all. Audi a3 2008 2.0 tdi. Black smoke on acceleration and diesel smell, slight whistling sound . Plugged an obd2 scanner in. No fault codes but maf reading a lot higher than it should be. Could this be the culprit for the smoke and smell? Any thoughts? Thanks

Hi black smoke is due to over fuelling, the high MAF reading is due to the ECU trying to combat the extra fuel with more air, so you either have a leaking injector or the car has been remapped at some point.

Steve.

3 hours ago, WhisperingAl said:

Hi

Is it possible to switch off auto windscreen wipers on my A4 B7?

 I have had several different cars with auto wipers and none of them work. 
Either one wipe every three days or ten every second, well a slight exaggeration but you know what I mean. 
I guess the sensor is in the back of the mirror housing. What if I tape over it. 
 

Hi if you tape over it the thing will work all the time as it works on opacity so the more its blocked the harder it works, this is quite a common problem on A4/A6 2012 up and is usually down to a cruddy control stalk on the steering wheel which is why there are so many second hand units for sale, you have to replace the whole unit which is a bit of a mission especially when you replace it as if you have not placed the squib ring in dead centre the steering goes bananas, try cleaning it with contact cleaner first.

Steve.

41 minutes ago, Davidacarrick said:

I am having running issues on my 2015 Audi a6 2.0 TDI avant 122,000 miles. 190ps ultra. Manual transmission. 
 

Car has been scanned with VCDD no DTC/fault codes or engine management lights.

 

To explain:

 

when I drive in 1st, 2nd and 3rd fully smooth through rev range whether I accelerate slowly or floor it. 4th is a bit intermittent until higher revs 3000+, 5th and 6th I get shaking and vibrating but also feels like it effects power. When I accelerate slowly at half throttle it’s not as bad or prominent but if I floor it in 5th/6th for acceleration anything about 1500 revs it’s a shudder acceleration (not like a flywheel failure) but more like you were going on and off throttle every second until revs increase.

 

recently had wheel bearings changed and drive shafts so not related to that, tyres are new, intake to turbo pipe has been replaced, new air filter and no obvious blockages. MAF sensor showing as measuring correctly with no faults.
 

It’s as if something is struggling (air/fuel) but no fault codes and I can’t get my head around it.

 

any suggestions or advice?

Hi I would suspect an air leak the other side of the MAF, also check the MAP sensor and the DPF sensor I had the same on my car and ended up changing both MAP and DPF sensors to cure this as the EGR was staying open when and allowing gas recirculation when you were trying to clog it in higher gears when it needs the maximum amount of fresh air, what diagnostic reader are you using as anything other than VCDS/OBD Eleven wont necessarily flag any codes, before I bought new sensors I had already changed the EGR valve which was pretty much mint because of the design it only gets hot exhaust gas and no recycled crankcase gas because that gets fed in further down the stream only to discover it might be a blocked pipe to the MAP/EGR sensors, no blockages so it had to be the sensors, don't ask why because they all communicate with each other and I never found out what wasn't working, took me ages playing chase the ace, all part of the wonderful Ultra technology and a very complex engine management software.

Steve.

1 hour ago, Steve Q said:

I don't think you can. See if you can source one on eBay but I don't think do lipsticks are available 

Hi Steve yes indeed lipsticks are available on eBay my daughter buys them a lot.

Steve.

6 hours ago, MileyFinley1 said:

I have yeah, I spent a good 2-3 hours on it yesterday and there was no joy. 

Hi if you take the bar off and run the holes through with an oversize drill bit the two parts should come apart as the top and bottom plates are held together around the bolt holes, but before doing this measure the roll bar itself with a vernier caliper to see which size bush you need as there are three different sizes, also pay attention to the other shape of the new bush so its the same, they are going to be murder to fit but do not lubricate the inner part of the bush and use washing up liquid on the outer part, once on the bar the new bushes can be coaxed into the upper part of the metal mounting using a piece of wood either side and a large G clamp this should get it far enough in so when you put the base plate on bolting it up should pull it in the rest of the way, unless you have the facilities to grind off the old captive nuts you will need longer bolts and new nuts.

Steve.

2 hours ago, DanS said:

Thanks for a quick reply Steve - i had heard of this but wasn't sure on the effect of it and whether or not it would flag up in future diagnosis', also would that then also remove the fault warning and engine light?

 

Hi yes it will remove the light as the map fools it into thinking the adblu tank is always full, the cars will run perfectly well without it just don't get talked into having the EGR and DPF deleted at the same time as that will definitely cause problems, have you tried the tank level reset as this can be done with VCDS or OBD Eleven and often sorts the problem.

Steve.

2 hours ago, cliffcoggin said:

Believe what you want Tony, but I can assure you that coding is a neccesity for things other than stop/start. The car's electronics are sensitive and require a stable power supply from a battery with no internal faults in order to function properly.

I wish you luck with your problem, but it seems I am wasting my time trying to convince you so I am withdrawing from this discussion.

Hi Cliff how long has this been under discussion and for the benefit of anyone who wants to know, since 2007 most of the major manufacturers installed some sort of battery energy monitor, Fords use a battery counter system as do Vauxhall, Audi and Mercedes use a monitor system which is attached to the earth lead, both systems need reseting when a new battery is installed this informs the ECU and the Alternator to learn new values about charging, what is painfully clear having studied the brand of this battery it comes from no definitive source, even the company website only mentions the batteries are developed by them and their partners who are their partners are is anyones guess, basically its a cheap range of European parts that are being flooded in from Europe a bit like the NAPA parts from America, from what I can gather EUROREPAR have been going for twenty years if you lodge that against Bosch and Yuasa who have well over a Hundred years between them you can see where your extra money goes, I have recently had to change the battery on my wife's Alfa which does about fifteen hundred miles a year the last Yuasa unit has lasted five years so I bought a new Yuasa which has a four year guarantee, so yes you are right the battery probably is defective.

Steve. 

7 hours ago, Denise Frost said:

Heater plug light flashing and engine management on. Air filter and air flow meter changed but lights still showing. Any ideas? 

Hi its no good playing chase the ace with fitting random parts in the hope of curing a problem you need a diagnostic scan to pinpoint the problem.

Steve.

On 5/16/2024 at 7:17 PM, LG99 said:

Hello everyone,

I’m hoping I can get some advice on this issue, been happening for a while now. A4 65 2.0 TDI quattro S tronic, currently at 71,000. 
 

when accelerating usually between 3rd and 5th gear there is a knocking/fluttering noise coming from the engine. Tends to be worse going up hill. 
 

I initially thought it was the octane rating, switched to v-power, did not solve, I use arch oil in every tank which helps but not solved. 
 

cam belt is due a change, could this be the issue? I’m hoping it’s not an issue with injectors?

a strange thing I have noticed is the car is brilliant to drive when it is doing a regen, no noise when accelerating, car is smooth to drive feels like new. I assume this from the extra diesel being used which is making me think there is an issue with the fuel injection or ratio which could cause the knocking on acceleration. 
 

any help would be appreciated!

Hi the car runs better during a regen as the EGR is shut off [no exhaust gas] they all do, I would recommend a full diagnostic scan before condemning anything.

Steve.

2 hours ago, Weldted said:

Had this car since 08/2016 bought when 6 months old, done 26000 miles full Audi Service History. Had this warning come on, previous to this had a recall message to book in for a software update and safety check, have not booked it in yet as been away. Is there a link between these problems?

Hi quite possibly the answer to this is yes, especially if the car has had no prior updates during your ownership as the dealers wont do them automatically, so you have to ask and they have to charge, the updates are normally for the first four years, these are to counter known problems that the dealers have found during service, after four years they don't do anymore updates as they say they have covered most upcoming faults, my niece has had a MINI 1from new which started to run badly last summer, the car was bought new in 2010 and had never had an update so when we took it to a BMW specialist I know he said yeah no probs the update will take ten minuets, forty five minuets later it was still down loading, but to be fair it went like a rocket after.

Steve.

14 hours ago, Delberthot said:

I've discovered since buying my A4 that there are a few safety features that, even if you deactivate them in the MMI, they are reactivated every time you start the engine again. These seem to be mandatory for 2024 models.

Lane assist is an easy one to turn off - just press and hold the button on the indicator stock to deactivate.

Thanks to information I read on the forum, the speed limit warning "bong" that lets you know you're doing 31 in a 30 that was just a matter of adding to favourites.

The one that's troubling me is the pre sense. There's a road I drive every day to work that has a narrow double bend with a wall on the near side. I've driven this road hundreds of times but pre sense thinks that I am about to hit the wall at the side of the road most days.

Most of the time I just get the red warning but the other day it decided that my driving wasn't good enough and fired on the brakes. Luckily, it was a dry road and there was nothing behind me at the time. That's the wall on the left hand side just after the chevrons:

It doesn't look like you can add this to favourites as pressing and holding doesn't seem to do anything and there is no longer the option to set it to late as I have done on earlier versions.

I don't believe that it can be deactivated using VCDS, plus I'm unsure of the insurance implications if I was to have an accident and they discovered that I had permanently deactivate it. Does anyone know if it can be accessed quickly without having to go through all of the menus?

Hi might be worth getting in to dialogue with OBD Eleven and ask them if their system will deactivate the system as your vehicle is SFD protected and to date they are the only system to have access to the tokens to perform such functions, you wont have problems with insurance as these things cause more damage than they prevent and I suspect in the future they may even load your policy if you have it.

Steve.

1 hour ago, A Watkins said:

Having bought a 2017 Audi Avant Tdi SE auto estate in the last few days...I was familiarising myself with information settings on dashboard and scrolled and checked all then engine oil showed a display to say reduce engine oil level. Checked on level ground...same message. Was serviced by Audi dealership in Fen and engine oil service was conducted. Has been driven over 100 miles dance that service. How would they determine if any damage has been caused to engine or cat converter?

Hi it wont damage the engine, its most likely the oil sensor in the sump going sideways they are a rubbish design which is doomed to fail, I service my own car and had the same message so I drained out a litre of oil and it was still the same message so I had to change the sensor, these sensors are very twitchy even after opening the bonnet you have to drive at least two cycles [3-4 miles] before you can check it again.

Steve.

1 minute ago, cliffcoggin said:

2 amps when switched off? Perhaps you mean 2 milliamps?

Hi sorry Cliff I stand corrected.

21 hours ago, DanDum said:

The O2 sensor was replaced by a garage, I hope they readapted. I noticed I have 2 pressure sensors (one has both ends connected and the second only one) and they are next to eachother. Should I replace them both?

Hi the one with only one connection is for the low pressure EGR, the sensor with two pipes is the DPF sensor they are both the same part number but the EGR sensor on the low pressure side uses barometric  pressure from the open side to make its calculations, replacing both is not a bad shout but they will both need adapting, I would still be interested in your soot/ash loadings.

Steve.

9 hours ago, Sheffieldyorky said:

Hi, there peeps,

I have an A3 1.9Tdi 3-door hatchback from March 2009 making it a 8P1.

>

As the title states I have had this drain for some time now and have been unable to find the source despite the usual testing methods, i.e. digital meter on the mA range with the leads in the correct orientation, any way to cut a long story, I took out all the under dashboard cover's, steering column, glovebox etc. in a search for an obvious short etc.

At this time I was disconnecting the positive lead from the battery and I manually locked the car.

At the same time as this was happening, I purchased a new Junsun multi-media entertainment system ( I was awaiting arrival from China) to replace my Audi Chorus which I took out, it then started raining due to various other circumstances including the weather I was not able to get back to the car.

Finally, I then started looking for any signs of a fault using my HEX-V2 dongle, there were several fault codes but NONE that related to what I was experiencing.

I don't know what made me do it but I checked the multiplug for the Audi Chorus (the radio is in the house) for any signs of a supply and I found it in the multiplug, at this stage, there was no key in the ignition and both doors were shut, while sat in the car I pressed the remote to lock the car and waited and waited and I still had a supply from the multiplug.

So after a bit of research etc. I found the fuses are located in the engine bay # 8 and 9 I proved this by removing them and checking the multiplug supply it has now gone, so reinstated said fuses now back to square one.

First thing if I go out to the car in the morning take off the positive lead and then tap the positive battery post I get a very small spark which tells me something is energized but take out the fuse and there is no spark, I forgot to mention the door and the bonnet catch have been put into the lock position and I have to wait about an hour to start this procedure (sorry cart before the horse).

 What is really puzzling me is why is the multiplug still live even when the car has gone to sleep etc.

Hi the multi plug for the head unit always has a supply normally about 2amps this maintains the memory functions within the unit otherwise when you power it up the settings need to be altered.

Steve.

10 minutes ago, DanDum said:

Hi everyone,

I hope I'm not going to create a double post (couldn't find anything similar). I have a A6 2.0L UltraTDI 2015. My issues started last year in April when the DPF light came up on my dash. I had an error for the O2 sensor which I replaced. Since then it keeps coming and going all the time. After it comes up, if will not take it on the motorway to do a regen, eventually it will go into limp mode with error DPF regeneration duration. In the last year I've replaced the O2 sensor, EGT2 sensor, turbo, EGR. Nothing changed. I took my car to 7 different garages including Audi garage and Audi specialists garages. No one can find the reason. I've cleaned the DPF with one of those company that comes to your house and does it but nothing changed. When I have the DPF error on my dash it's not showing anything on VCSD. Any ideas of what might be? Thank you

Hi did you readapt the O2 sensor and the DPF after it was cleaned as it has to learn its new soot/ash levels from empty, if so and it still keeps doing it it may well be the DPF pressure sensor, thats the one with two pipes that measures the gas flow pressure before and after the DPF  if its not performing as it should it allows the DPF to fill up to far before trying to initiate a regen, check your soot levels as they should not exceed 30 grams.

Steve.

1 hour ago, hoolieman said:

Thanks for your reply Steve.

The diagnostic platform's not mine but I think the reductant related codes will clear as the light comes on when AdBlue's low and then goes out a little while after re-filling.

As for the p2002, I'll look into it as you suggest and maybe I should get the DPF cleaned.

I'm hopeful that if it comes to it the EGR cooler would be covered under warranty.

 

Hi I wish you luck with the warranty, its a hell of a job and requires significant stripping down as well as elastic arms and fingers to get it out, the easiest way is remove the front end and drag it out with the cat attached, I tried cleaning it in situ with every chemical known to man but ultimately it always needed replacing.

Steve.

2 hours ago, Renato Rea said:

I

Hi looks like a good part as a lot of refurbished parts suffer poor finish and make you wonder, this looks like they have really gone to town on the refurb, these guys are definitely going to make a name for themselves, let us know how it performs.

Steve.

58 minutes ago, hoolieman said:

The following codes are lurking in the background of my beloved 2.0L diesel A4.:

P200200 PARTICULATE TRAP BELOW THRESHOLD

P204B00 REDUCTANT PRESSURE SENSOR CIRCUIT RANGE

P204F0ON REDUCTANT SYSTEM PERFORMANCE BANK1

The car currently drives well, although I'll begin to feel the pinch if the cost of AdBlue increases.

Could someone give me an idea of what I might have to do to prevent catastrophe?

Many thanks in advance.

Hi Jim what diagnostic platform are you using?, try deleting the two codes for the reductant and see if they come back, the code I would be more alarmed about is p2002 thats a nasty one, its not that the DPF is blocked, thats still working, no its the low pressure EGR cooler, this is well documented on this forum and normally requires replacement I got through at least three of them in the time I owned my A6, the engines are common to the A4/A6 and due to the Ultra technology share the same emissions problems, the design is basically flawed as it takes gas for the DPF and burns it again problem is as it cools the gas through the cooler tubes the adblue crystals become solid again and block the tubes  and the valve mounted on the cooler filling them with a slimy white mess, adblue wont harm paintwork etc but when it comes in to contact with basic steel it will corrode it and rot the tubes out and then you end up with adblue crystals in the expansion tank and causing a white film on the tailpipes, if you do search there is ton of info on here with pictures.

Steve.

6 hours ago, Renato Rea said:

I will be posting pictures from the packaging to on the car before and after fitting. 

Hi good shout, pictures always make the imagined part more realistic and potentially more attractive to people who are chasing the same problem.

Steve.

2 minutes ago, Linda p said:

I was just coming off the motorway tonight and my engine light flashed a few times and then went off, the other day my oil light flashed on and then went off …. Oil is ok, does this sound like an electrical fault? 

Hi the only way you will get to the bottom of this is to have the car scanned for faults, its the only way to pin down what is going on.

Steve.

3 hours ago, Reno Pro said:

 euro 6 were from end of the 2014  September   

I have 2015 euro 6 Audi A3 TDi 2.0 sportback quattro  184 bumped to 230 bhp manufactured in 2014 september.. 

Then the word ''fluid'' wouldn't be used in car terminology ..  The engine oil burns because it is used in combustion cambers where the fire meets the oil that's why is always immediately black ..  Nobody says  normally engine fluid but oil..  In Audi or VW-AG will automatically say trans fluid or haldex fluid etc. 

The transmission fluid is closed chamber where combustion isn't present and if u saying u had experience with very bad trans fluid that means the user of the car or owner or whatever was ruthless and and abuser of the car.. Driving car in top high speeds in long period of the time and often overheating transmission. 

Well everyone teaches different depending of the person or teacher.. 

Hi I hate to tell you this but transmission fluid does get very hot despite not being part of the combustion process, its called kinetic friction the base material is the same as engine oil but is heavily refined to a point where its thinner and has more of a propensity towards a hydraulic state then additives are employed to enhance the hydraulic properties as well as the rapid cooling properties of the fluid, after a suitable period or milage the additives break down and via the heat from the gear meshing and being pressurised through small detent valves the fluid looses its viscosity and also changes colour, it has nothing to do with abusers driving the car to hard, its all to do with ambient temperatures over a given time or milage, do you think that would be a selling point in a dealers, sorry sir you can't drive this 400hp flying machine fast for any length of time because you might wear the gearbox fluid out.

Engine oil is a completely different product although it comes from the same base product its additives are designed in such a way to protect internal components and the additives involved allow it to do this at a much higher thermal grade whilst absorbing the moisture from the combustion process along with the carbon within that water, sorry but its a one way street, the engine wont burn sump oil unless your oil rings are knackered in which case it will kill your catalytic converter in record time as engine oil when exposed to super heat will crack and revert back to hard carbon unless its fully synthetic in which case it just coats the cat core in a slime that totally negates the function of the precious metals such as palladium which convert the harmful gases in the exhaust stream.

20 hours ago, AndyHY said:

OK thanks, I'll get the battery checked and I have an auto electrician coming 3rd June so I'll get the module checked too.

Appreciate your time.

Andy 

Hi Andy thank you for the update it gives the forum value and continuity.

Steve.

18 hours ago, Reno Pro said:

That must've been old car not from 2015 .. and up... but trash cars... I replaced after 45 or 50k and it was still gold..  

Hi quite the opposite in fact, my daughters Q3 2013 my friends 2020 BMW his sisters 2021 Mercedes GLA and finally my 2021 VW Passat, as for your statement about transmission fluid not being an oil I can only conclude that the college Bmec fluid and gas disciplines course I took was a waste of time and money and the lecturers were talking b@ll@cks, therefore I must bow to your superior experience on one vehicle and opinion on Trash cars which you have neither seen or driven.