Stevey Y

2 hours ago, Q7man said:

Hi all,

I’ve been having trouble with error codes p0321 and p0322 and come to the conclusion the crankshaft sensor needs to be replaced (based on experiences of others online).

so…. We’ve come to get this replaced and the garage have come to replace the part with what we have been supplied (based on the vehicle registration) to find that it’s different. Upon inspection at the garage they have found the part i need to be a sensor which doesn’t have a wire attached to it. The one provided has a wire attached which would plug in somewhere in the engine bay???

We’re really confused as they bought another from GSF instead and it turns out to be the same again. 
 

Does anyone have experience with the crankshaft sensors for these vehicles? It’s a 2010 3.0 tdi. Do these vehicles have different crankshaft sensors for different year models or are the garage looking at the wrong sensor? Videos on YouTube point to the same sensor my garage are looking at.

Any help is appreciated , thanks in advance!!!

 

 

Hi no such thing as a crank sensor without a wiring connector otherwise it wont work, you have to find the remains of the original wiring the sensor is normally by either the crank pulley or where the gearbox joins the engine.

Steve.

On 4/2/2024 at 1:56 PM, FullnA6C7 said:

Hello all,

I am wondering if anyone has any ideas what could be causing my intermittent notchy steering issue on my 2016 A6 C7.

 

Recently my steering has varied in resistance when turning at low speeds such as coming out at a junction or doing a three-point turn. When I turn the wheel left or right the steering becoming very stiff and then returns to normal as I turn some more in the same direction. When the wheel is at a degree where it is very stiff and heavy the steering does not naturally return to centre when letting go of the wheel and I have to physically pull it back to centre. This issue comes and goes. I am just back from a 1000 mile road trip around Scotland and this issue only happen on a few occasions. When i arrived home everything was fine until yesterday where it was dreadfully stiff. I went to take it to the garage today and sure enough it worked perfectly fine (typical!).

 

My mechanic has looked at it several times (annoyingly each time he has the car the steering is back to being perfect) and cannot see any reason why there is an issue. I asked if it could be a rusty universal joint behind the driver’s side foot well but he said if it was that then the stiffness would remain and not be intermittent. He has ran diagnostics several times and cannot find anything to suggest there is an electrical problem with the steering. Any time I have this problem there is never a dashboard warning message. When this issue arises there are never any unsavoury noises like grinding or clunking.

 

 

Can anyone think what the issue might be that can cause intermittent steering stiffness?

 

Many, many thanks in advance 

Hi I agree with Gareth/Steve the electric steering rack draws about 60amps when operating if its not getting any continuity that will give the symptoms you have.

Steve.

On 4/1/2024 at 5:37 PM, Rollie said:

Thanks Steve, appreciated 

Hi Andrew please find what I have discovered, there are only three sensors not four and I pretty certain that the diagnostics you are using is what's at fault, each platform relies heavily on the software writers interpretation of a fault and through experience with different platforms I have come to the con elusion they must have had a few beers whilst writing the software. 

Steve.

28 minutes ago, NMB2024 said:

Not sure the dealer will accept a return if there is no fault. The thing is, I test drove the identical car but, obviously, missed this Audi "sound".

Hi if you are happy with the rest of the car I know it means more money but go and consult your nearest wheel and tyre specialist and ask if they do a tyre that is different and may solve your problem, if not try the old how much will I get trade in for my stuff against a set of decent 17inch wheels and tyres, find out what your wheel offset is and go looking on eBay, factor in that you may have to have the wheels refurbed and new tyres but you get to keep the old wheels for when you get the car, multiple variables with this problem.

Steve.

7 hours ago, Mickwillow said:

Never had a issue with my 2017 A5 and my father in law has that now , does seem very poor for an Audi just turned 4 year old to have issues like this already, cars only done 28k ! 
 I have found a guy with YouTube that found the same problem when changing his spring on a A4 funny enough 

 

Hi its quite a common problem mostly the rubber bit rotting out but if I were you I would take heed of the term not seriously weakened, get under the back clean the alloy bit with a small wire brush and then give it a coat of Waxoyl that will keep the rot at bay for years, did mine when I first got it 2019 and they were still good four years later.

Steve.

4 hours ago, gazza1298 said:

hi my reveres lights come on when i turn on the light can anyone help me

Hi gary, which light, more info needed.

Steve.

53 minutes ago, NMB2024 said:

Pure coincidence but when i picked up my rental car at the weekend at Inverness Airport it was a '73 plate Audi A3 TFSI 35 S-Line on 18inch Bridgestone Turanza tyres. So, the identical car to mine with similar mileage. That wretched hum/droning noise (think blowing across a glass bottle top) is present from the rental car too. It must be specific to the model - probably the tyre size/profile. I am not impressed because, other than this noise which occurs at speed and on rough surfaces, the car is very good.

Hi it looks like time to broker the deal for other wheels or back the car.

Steve

3 hours ago, shanem1987 said:

My Audi A3 1.6tdi 2011 is experiencing an issue where it will kangaroo down the road at low revs and will idle above 1000rpm. This does not happen all the time but more like once a week. Im suspecting an egr issue but did not know if anyone else had the same issue. 

Thanks in advance 

Hi you wont get a definitive answer until you have had the vehicle scanned and that will give you the codes to get it fixed.

Steve.

1 hour ago, Wilko91 said:

So i was out yesterday and had the warning light came on, with a check coolant level message. This went on and off a few times. Went home and there is bugger all coolant in the housing, and i steam was coming from a connector to the tank. The temp gauge had not moved at all. Looked today and a bit off coolant has reappeared in the housing. Looks a bit splashy with drips and some pooling below the housing. So a leak it appears. Steam must have been due to pressure build up. So do i just put some distilled water in it and get it to the garage. Or chuck in some G13 and top it right up. Car had a health check end of Dec. I must admit i haven't  looked at the levels, thinking everything is fine after the recent health check. So who knows what has occurred though i gather this is a common fault. I have an Audi extended warranty so lets see what comes of it.

Hi Golden rule check all fluids every two weeks, I think you have a leak somewhere and are getting air in the system visually check the hoses around the throttle body and EGR valve as they are prone to leaking also check the hoses under the inlet manifold, the thermostat housing hoses as well, easy to spot antifreeze leaks as they are stained the same colour as the antifreeze even when dry.

Steve.

8 hours ago, Rollie said:

Hi Steve,
 

The one further down the exhaust is sensor 4, for the life of me I can't see where sensor 1 is. Don't suppose you have any plans lol where it's located. I've booked it into the garage but have to wait until 17th April 🤦🏻‍♂️😫. Typical it can't be the simplest one, that's cars for you. 
 

Thanks for your help
Andy

Hi got a new microcat coming Tuesday I will have a look on that and see if I can get a schematic diagram.

Steve.

3 minutes ago, maher said:

Looking for gearbox code QLX.

Hi try eBay or put in a request in breaker link.

4 hours ago, Magnet said:

Hello Nick,

As Stevey says.
 I been putting a dampener on anything to do with large wheels for some time, since the trend seems to be for the largest wheels and the skinniest tyres - because they look good. Yet, you cannot see the wheels when you are sat in the car, but you are the one who suffers the adverse ride quality. 
Add to the potential of harder sidewalls, probably XL etc. and everything gets magnified. 
An equally aged friend found the ride to be not to his liking on an S.Line with skinny tyres chosen for him by his children - it went back. 
Mind, I’d not be too happy about the expense of changing wheels and tyres, but…

Interesting you mention Bridgestone, since I have been considering these on our non-Audi.

For me, I want as comfortable ride as I can get from the tyres, and as much mileage as poss. so any recommendations are welcome.

Kind regards,

Gareth.

Hi Gareth, try TOYO PROXES my mate has just fitted those to his wife's golf and reckons its like driving on air compared to the Continentals he previously had and also reports back the wet grip is phenomenal.

Steve.

13 minutes ago, NMB2024 said:

Hi Gareth, regarding the Bridgestones, I had these (also 18 inch) on my previous car 2018 Audi A6 Avant S-Line and found them to be fine. Its not so much the ride, more the road noise - the tyre noise itself isnt too bad but the resonance from the wheel/surface contact is vrry irritating - a low level drone/hum.

I'm not sure whether the car can go back as I have had it for three weeks and have done around 600 miles.

However, anyone considering an A3 Sportback S-Line should be prepared for above average road noise at motorway speeds.

Hi the Bridgestones would probably work better on the A6 but the denominator is that the A6 is a far heavier car.

Steve.

6 hours ago, Rollie said:

Unfortunately it’s defo sensor 3 by the looks of it when I’ve doubled checked. 
any other help would be appreciated 

cheers

Andy

Hi in that case it could be the one underneath as the exhaust goes under the bulkhead, weird thing is on my VCDS when mine started acting up it was the top first sensor that I changed, the one further down the pipe is a sod to get to.

Steve.

2 hours ago, Rollie said:

Hi, does anyone know where I can locate EGT sensor 1? I know where 2, 3 and 4 are. Thank you

Andy

Hi I think you will find the sensor you have marked three is actually number one as its at the beginning of the exhaust stream next to the adblue the others run downstream.

Steve.

14 minutes ago, Wrootrhino said:

Hello,

Does anyone know of a reasonably priced tool that allows me to reset the service indicator? Not just the oil service re-set that can be carried out on the Infotainment screen but the Service Due message because I have serviced the car but cannot reset the indicator.

Thanks

Bill

Hi to effectively put out the light you will need something like OBDEleven not exactly expensive but very efficient this will also let you change the inspection due.

Steve.

7 hours ago, tuba said:

Really struggling to find the exact same part number anywhere in the UK, seems like they're all from places in the EU. I found this plug and play one, but does this look legit to you, I'd send them my old ECU, they'd copy it onto another used one (same part numbers), and I can 'plug and play'. 

https://www.cartechelectronics.com/plug-play-siemens-engine-ecu-audi-5wp4078901-5wp40789-01-06a906033pa-06a-906-033-pa-simos-7pp/

Sounds too good to be true, but wanted to see if it actually is a trustworthy solution!,

 

Thanks

Hi the trustworthy solution is get in touch with ECU Testing and get it tested, no problem there is only a nominal charge, if there is a problem they will inform you with a repair price. Plus being as its your original unit its plug in and play.

Steve.

21 hours ago, msmith93 said:

The car gets up to temperature in good time and sits at the correct level. If the stat was needing changing surely this wouldnt be the case? Thanks

Hi its the thermostat on the water pump that controls the engine temp the other one before the the heater is the one that controls the cabin temp, if that one is playing about all your hot water flies through the bypass system.

Steve.

8 hours ago, Ruby said:

Hi Steve,

Funnily enough I've spent a fair bit of time looking at hose clips after your first post.

There are two I like the look of, the spring clips (easy to fit and remove) or the ear type (one manufacturer is Febi Bilstein) which you crimp up to fit and are one use, and harder to remove. Another downside is the official crimp tool is pricey, there are cheap ones but would that allow for under or over crimping so you'd get a poor seal?

I believe both offer some thermal give which, as you say the jubilee clips don't, or very little.

A new rack to cooling loop pipe is £178 inc VAT (TPS) and needs to be ordered from Germany, 5 day wait.

My plan is to remove the pipe end, clean the area, look at the damage, if only at the very end and if I can make a clean cut and the pipe still reaches ok I'll then reattach it with a proper clip.  Otherwise it's 5 days and £178 worse off!

 

Hi the upper picture is the clip to get, they are a pain to fit but not a problem if you have the right tool about a tenner on fleabay, good idea cutting the pipe back as long as you don't go nuts with it there should be enough slack let to get it connected again, can't believe the price of that pipe, if you get any length problems get a section of copper pipe the same diameter as the inside of the rubber pipe and then you can make up the length  by doing a cut and shut further up the pipe it just means three clips instead of one.

Steve.

2 hours ago, Nathan1111 said:

Hi just wondering if anyone can help 

I’ve had this problem that happens randomly so not all the time but more likely between 3-4k revs coil light will come on and throw to car into limp mode, if I turn the car off and on the light disappears and isn’t in limp mode anymore. 
I’ve had the car checked and the fault codes that came up are related to the o2 sensor and an oil pressure switch but the oil pressure switch was changed roughly 2 month ago, just after a bit of a point in the right direction before I waste money and time on something it might not be also wondering if anyone else has ran into something similar and what helped for them 

thank you 

Hi I would say its the O2 sensor, easy fix and relatively cheap to buy.

Steve.

3 hours ago, msmith93 said:

Hi, new to the forum.

I have purchased my wife a 2013 2.0tdi with the heater playing up. Only blows luke warm air from the passenger side.

Believe that this is the heater matrix, which I plan to replace.. I just wondered whether people are using the cheaper brands or something like Valeo/Febi Bilstein?

 

Also both pipes for the heater matrix are warm at the bulkhead.

Any advice appreciated.... Sorry if this has all been answered before!!

Hi its most likely the thermostat sticking open so I would change that first if that wont work change the matrix its only worth using Valeo/Febi as a lot of the cheaper ones fail, might be worth flushing the system as the silica bags in the coolant tank rupture and block the matrix, so try the thermostat and flush first you may well save some money and a lot of grief.

Steve.

6 hours ago, K200CWC said:

Steve,  I have no issues with the Brembo product, I trust the brand.

My original post states

your feedback possibly negates the last six words, thankyou.

I have no wish to spent many thousands on a ceramic solution but so far nobody has come up with an alternate.  I might try a set of the Brembo's on the front of my car and feedback to Joe, as requested, before changing to a ceramic solution (if one exists) and if they don't resolve my issue. Finally, and with all due respect, your perspective is wrong and you clearly don't know me.

Hi on the original post you quoted 50m from the the sea is that 50 miles or metres, I did not at any point say you don't trust Brembo just trying to fathom out why I have never had the same problem other than sporadicly as I live seventeen miles from the sea and if I get what you have the rust is gone within 900yds with no detriment to the longevity of the discs, if you factor in road salt over the winter months and all the various acidic compounds in the water when it rains its a no brainer the discs will along with everything else under the floor will corrode the time table for this is heavily dependent on the quality of steel used in making the bolts and even the plastic trim clips holding the under tray and wheel arch liners on they eventually harden and fail, I only use high carbon discs with no small success, with both ceramic and carbon fibre disc the downside is the extra time they take heat to the level where braking efficiency is optimum, this is caused by the fact that both mediums are 50% better at losing heat than carbon steel and should realistically used on cars that are driven aggressively, so in essence you only have one of two choices.

Steve.

52 minutes ago, tuba said:

Is this the same as crankshaft sensor? If so, we've already tried changing this

Hi no camshaft sensors are different but from your faults and seeing as you have changed the the throttle body I would be looking at the throttle position sensor on the pedal.

Steve.

12 hours ago, Dan_34 said:

My 2013 Audi A3 is misfiring. Taken it to the mechanic but they don't seem to know what the issue is. initial diagnosis shows an issue with Cylinder 2. 

On ideal it is seems ok. when starting to accelerate, it runs rough and starts to backfire. This problem  doesn't occur when vehicle is warm but happens when cold.

 

Here are the current repairs that have been done but still no results

Parts changed

Intake manifold

high pressure fuel injector 

Camshaft Adjuster Magnet

Gasket

Low pressure fuel injector 

spark plugs

ignition coil

throttle body 

ECU

 

Has anyone experenced this issue ,  what steps did you take to fix them ?.  

Hi have they scanned the car for fault codes, if so what were they, confused by the list, high pressure and low pressure injectors not heard of them.

Steve.

25 minutes ago, K200CWC said:

I might be misreading the Brembo document but surly once the disks have done a few miles the coating will have warn away and we'll be back to surface rust??

Hi all E11/E9 discs are rigorously tested to get this E mark therefore they will have taken the surface rust in to account, the corrosion you are suffering wont make the discs rot any quicker than anybody else's , I use ATE/BREMBO on my car and occasionally get rust spots or complete film rusting over the whole surface and I still get 70k  out of them, it seems from my perspective that you are trying to build a case to buy what is basically a very expensive piece of kit just so your discs look nice in the morning, you make no mention of track days, if thats what you intend doing by all means go for it.

Steve.