Stevey Y

2 hours ago, Borat said:

Hi, my 2008 q7 3.0 tdi will no longer get to full temp on the guage. It will go to about 50 and sometimes 90 after a long time but if i stop then next drive will just stick at 50-60 and refuses to goto normal 90.

Garage has replaced thermostat and water pump but they say it still it wont warm up. Is there something they have missed as it never overheats just runs cool all the time.

Please help 🙂

 

Hi I think you have an airlock get the system re bled, other than that flush the whole system there something causing the lack of flow, if its auto check the thermostat for the gearbox oil cooler.

Steve.

2 hours ago, Meeko said:

Hi all, hoping someone can help - the headlight washers on my 2010 A3 Sportback 1.8TFSI have stopped working. I've checked the fuse (F32) and can also hear a relay trigger every 5th activation of the wipers (with headlights on). When the relay clicks on / off , voltage can briefly be seen at the headlight washer pump.

It would appear that the relay isn't staying on long enough to activate the washer pump. Does anyone have any ideas what might be at fault?

Hi its most likely a dodgy relay, just had it on my daughters Q3, changed the relay all good.

Steve.

19 hours ago, Vorlockfoss said:

Hi Stevey Y,

Thanks for your response.

Indeed, I'm sure I did, but I believe I only changed the last digit & not the last 3.  I've now learned that about the serial number, so that will come in handy.  🙂

I don't believe you can on my A4 B8 as it's non-UDS.  You can only enter 10 or 11 digit part number, 1 or 2 spaces, the battery manufacturer, 1 space and then the 10 digit serial number.

Yes, me too, but every battery supplier, aside from Tanya, suggested a 70Ah 760A battery, so I went by popular suggestion.  As I said to cliffcoggin above, it wasn't until my engine continued to fail to start after I'd installed the A7 battery that I looked further into the suggestion of using the cars 'starter battery', which I learned was a 92Ah 520A.  This is when I posted as above.

Apologies, I should have clarified that I changed the pump in the tank around 3 years ago, less than 12k miles ago, for a new Bosch pump, so that shouldn't be an issue.  I haven't physically tested it, which I will do tomorrow, but it's making all the right noises, at all of the right times and instances.  There is a simple way to test the flow of that low pressure pump, by disconnecting from the HPFP and adding a plastic 500ml bottle; it should reach around 1/3 full when opening the door and after emptying, it should reach a little under 2/3 full when pressing the key.  So watch this space on that.

Thanks again,

Paul.

Hi even if your vehicle is non UDS that wont affect the coding of the battery as non UDS just means that it mainly concentrates on monitoring emissions equipment, EGR, fuelling and ignition/injection protocols, full UDS was developed to encompass recoding of components all over the car as well as fault finding and code clearance.

Steve.

15 hours ago, Vorlockfoss said:

Hi, I'm looking for help with installing my new battery.

I have just replaced the old Exide battery on my 2009 Audi A4 B8 2.0 TFSI Quattro as it was showing 20% charge, 0Ah and only 11.6 volts available, seemingly no matter how long I drove for.  I did try charging it with a slow charger, and got it to 40%, but no more.  At this time my car had gone into 'energy management active', and although my engine would crank apparently easily, it would not fire at all.

The battery suggested by Varta, and bought, is a "Varta A7 - E39 - MPN 570901076 - 70Ah/760A - AGM Battery", which is the same specification as the Exide I've just removed.  Now, according to the sticker in my Audi Service Schedule, the 'Starter' battery for my car was 'J0B', which was a "92Ah/520A AGM Battery", according to what I've learned online anyway; I'm open to correction if I'm wrong.  Anyway, I fitted the new Varta battery, changed the last digit of the serial number of the previous BMS Code via VCDS, saved and cleared the error codes.

I have to say that I have no idea what values the current code in the BMS represents, but it may be incorrect.  Obviously I can't use the original Starter Battery BMS code, otherwise my car may try to charge the new Varta battery to 92Ah and damage it, IMO.  I am trying to establish the correct code for my new Varta Battery, but it's proving quite difficult.  As is known, the code needs to be 10 or 11 digits long, but the MPN on my new Varta is only 9 digits long.  I have searched high and low, but each time I'm presented with the same manufacturer part number '570901076', which is only 9 digits long as I stated.  I have tried adding 3 spaces to fill the missing digits between it and 'V0A', but no go, VCDS will not allow it; a 10 digit serial is tagged on the end as required.  As I previously stated, the code installed may not be the correct code because, even though there is no error code showing in the log (see next paragraph), the dashboard is still displaying a 'low battery charge' and my car still will not start; it just turns over & does not attempt to fire.

Just to add some context to the above, I was having issues with very rough running, which came on all of a sudden last week, rendering my car undrivable.  Aside from the reasonably violent engine vibrations, I was seeing a considerable amount of white smoke leaving the exhaust and drastically reduced power.  After thorough investigations I was satisfied my head gasket is intact.  Incidentally, the white smoke did not smell very nice, but not 'eggy' as would be expected with the CAT; it was a combination of bad smell & petrol I think.  I also smelt petrol in the oil filler, and coupled with a low fuel pressure error code and much research I concluded the High Pressure Fuel Pump needed replacing.  I installed a brand new Hitachi HPFP, which has made a difference to the consistency of the rough running, i.e. less erratic.  After further investigations I concluded the PCV had most likely failed, maybe in relation to the HPFP failing.  I therefore installed a new PCV (oil separator), and a fuel pressure sensor while I was at it, but my engine has not started since; the installation of the PCV & Sensor/Sender is around the time my car power state changed to 'energy management active'.

My opinion is, I need to install the correct code for my new battery & car combination, or at least equivalent code i.e. 70Ah / 700A / AGM.  As I've previously mentioned, I suspect the code installed may be incorrect as I have been seeing power issues on my car for over 2 years; I don't know in what context the code may be wrong, but it would make sense, especially considering the persistent low battery charge error on my dashboard.  To add, the battery is only 4 years old and I've only driven an average of 4k miles each year.

Any help, thoughts or opinions would be gratefully appreciated, and a correct code would be blooming marvellous...!!!

Thanks for your time.

Paul.

Hi you could have used the existing BEM code and just changed the last THREE digits or just made up any ten digit code you can even use a row of zeros it wont make a lot of difference, as for the battery type you can put in UNK for unknown, I do find it strange they recommend a replacement that has a lower amp hour rating but a higher cranking rating, I would guess that part of the fuel problem may be the lift pump in the tank whenever that goes wonky the first thing it suggests is that the HPFP is at fault, check the lift pump flow on live data when running if its over 600 at idle the pump is on its way out or more often than not they just fail, easy way to test is get a false fuel supply tank connected above theHPFP so gravity is forcing the fuel down in to the feed pie and then try starting it.

Steve.

2 hours ago, Yates said:

Hi,

I have been trying to fix an error and I am unable to find the fault. Based on the diagnosis it might be the EGR and some wiring. the log is below, any help would be appreciated.

Log is attached.

Log-WAUZZZ4F5BN051271-226100km-140492mi.txt 20.83 kB · 1 download

Hi if you could please describe the symptoms of the error as the scan shows up ok, if it was the EGR system it would flag up something.

Steve.

2 minutes ago, KaSk said:

Ha ha, thanks for all of this, interesting to hear the breaking is weighted to the rear, as the noise does seem to be more from the rear.  For now I’m taking the turn up the stereo option 🤣.

Hi it has nothing to do with the braking bias and more to do with the pad material, one of the posters mentioned Audi fitting low dust pads, these are always noisy and a lot harder compound standard aftermarket pads contain more organic compounds which create more dust but generally make less noise.

Steve.

33 minutes ago, John Redd said:

Hi There

Thanks for your reply. Yes i replaced the belt and all the pulleys & tensioner. I did re-check the belt timing and it was spot on & It seems to run ok with easy start so i'm sure it's not the belt.

I think you may be right about getting it professionally diagnosed as i've run out of ideas as to what it could be. Everyone i know is telling me to cut my losses and scrap it but although the car is old with quite high mileage i really don't want to do that as it's not in bad condition and i'm also keen to know what's actually wrong with it.

I've been told by a diesel injection specialist in Colchester that these engines are unique in that the injectors can't be refurbished but are pretty much indestructible so i'm hoping that someone else out there must have had the same issues that i'm having!!

Hi did you code in the new injector, if not it throws the whole thing out, the reason behind coding is it restores the balance to the engine in so much as it informs the ECU of the new injector and the ECU adjusts the parameters to suit the new unit, dont believe everything you hear from specialists, I have always worked on the theory that if an item is made by a man another man can take it apart and put in repair parts to make it function again, we had all this with early Bosch piezo injectors, can't be refurbished, a year later United Diesels were advertising refurbed units.

Steve. 

5 hours ago, Alx222 said:

You mis understand what I’m saying,  I don’t want to take it back to them because I need the car for work, it makes more sense to get a better understanding of the issue before handing it in and saying here you go fix it, the dealership where I bought it from is 3 hours away and by the time I get back from work they are shut. 
 

don’t be so snotty acting like I haven’t thought about doing exactly what you said. I took time to post a question in hopes of help without sacrificing my job. Much like everyone on here they still haven’t had the dealership fix their issue so from I can see it’s pointless taking it in at the minute.  If you don’t have anything useful to say keep ur anger issues to urself.

You did not mention any of the above in the original posts, you just said you did not want to get on the bad side of them which begs the question are you afraid of the dealer?, thats the whole point of having a warranty however short, thats precisely what you do aim it back at them and get it fixed, assuming you are not capable of fixing it yourself which no one else has managed to do I am really at a loss to see what any other poster can offer you, based on your original post Cliff was as usual precise and correct you can either get your smart brain in to gear and book it in and take a couple of days annual leave which I am sure your employer wont sack you for, as for anger management I find persecution complexes far more disturbing.

Steve.

1 hour ago, Andy Harrington said:

Hi , new member Andy .

Ive had my 2011 s3 for 10 months and have had milky residue on my oil cap , a lot not just a little . I’ve had a head gasket pressure test and sniffer test done which it passed . I’ve had the oil changed as it needed doing and for peace of mind but after only two drives it’s back again not a lot this time because I’ve checked it sooner the 1st drive was not even a mile but the second was around 60 miles motorway a lot of it . No coolant loss or loss of power . Any advice would be e greatly appreciated 

Andy 

Hi could well be a blocked/ failing PCV valve on the cam housing, not sure if you can replace the valve or its incorporated in to the cam cover. Short journeys a lot of the time wont do it any favours.

Steve.

6 hours ago, fletchdirect said:

Hi, I'm planning on doing this to save £90 from the dealer as have the tools and a Bosch fuel filter is just £9!

The Bosch filter comes with 2 o-ring type seals. A large one and a small one. I know that the large one goes around the lid and must be done, but unsure where the small one goes. Its the size of maybe a 10p. See the image I uploaded.

Does anyone know where the small ring should go? I read somewhere where its a part for multiple cars and is not needed on some. The online videos have not used it either, just the large o-ring. The car is a 2013 Audi A3 8V 1.6tdi.

Any help would be great!!

Thanks a lot

Julian

Hi sorry the filter you are showing is an OIL FILTER NOT A FUEL filter.

6 hours ago, fletchdirect said:

Hi, I'm planning on doing this to save £90 from the dealer as have the tools and a Bosch fuel filter is just £9!

The Bosch filter comes with 2 o-ring type seals. A large one and a small one. I know that the large one goes around the lid and must be done, but unsure where the small one goes. Its the size of maybe a 10p. See the image I uploaded.

Does anyone know where the small ring should go? I read somewhere where its a part for multiple cars and is not needed on some. The online videos have not used it either, just the large o-ring. The car is a 2013 Audi A3 8V 1.6tdi.

Any help would be great!!

Thanks a lot

Julian

Hi the small ring is for cars equipped with the housing that can be drained for water in between filter changes which I assume your version does not have.

Steve.

7 minutes ago, Jkha said:

After looking around i found nothing under 100$ that fit my car. As it breaks, will the check engine reapper i assume? I havent tested long enough for it to be certain.

because code P0122 is the sensor itself. Could there be a possibility that the whole problem only is the sensor? As P2100 is a following fault related to the sensor?🤔

cause i can possibly return the throttle body, and replace the sensor.

ty!

Hi the sticky throttle valve will cause strain on the pedal sensor and quite possibly fry its location discs I normally replace both items when one goes, IE the throttle body they generally wear as a set, if you were looking to buy a car thats cheap to repair you have unfortunately bought an Audi which will never be cheap to fix even the old ones, if you stick a new sensor on with the old throttle it will most likely kill the new sensor in record time, no part has an infinite life/milage span and often as not you have to bite the bullet and just replace the parts.

Steve.

12 minutes ago, Jkha said:

That’s what i’m thinking. But as it functions normally while driving, im not sure if it’s worth doing over some idle numbers. But can it be changed by itself? Or does the whole pedal assembly need to be replaced.

Hi it is from memory not part of the pedal but its attached to the side of it, but if you are not that bothered by it leave it until it breaks then replace it.

Steve.

13 minutes ago, Jkha said:

Hey! I have an a4 b8 2008. I recently got check engine light for P2100 and P0122.

after a good read on different forums, i ended up replacing the full throttle body as a solution. This included the relearning sequence etc.
for the time being i have no check lights, so that’s good. But on my OBDII reader i look at ‘throttle position’ as a guideline to how the swap is doing.

This is showing 84.5% at idle. When i push the pedal it goes down to an appropriate level  (equivalent of the amount pushed down on the pedal) but when i release, it goes back up to 84.5%.

So what i’m asking here is, are these normal values? As I presume the flap is moving as it should following the numbers when pressed. To me it seems like an electronic issue with the brain or some other sensor.
Any thoughts about this?

thanks in advance! 
Sincerely Jon

Hi it could well be the throttle position sensor on the pedal it should be showing about 23% at idle.

Steve.

10 hours ago, JDL said:

Diesel pooling in and around injector well on 1 pair of injectors. The top of these injectors and around seem to be greasy and covered in what is most likely diesel. I can't see any leakage when engine is idling so i assume it's only occurring under load. Injectors have been refurbed by previous owner. 
im hoping its just the copper washer but does anyone know if this is the case or is it something worse? 
thanks 

Hi when injectors are renewed unless you are really lucky and dont go mad tightening the feed pipes up you normally need to use new feed pipes tightened to the correct torque, diesel has what's known as capillary action and will seep through the smallest gap, you can try just giving the unions just the smallest tweak to see if that solves the problem but if whoever fitted the injectors has tightened the unions very tight you run the risk of snapping something or increasing the leak where the pipe union seal has become deformed.

Steve.

1 hour ago, EmilyBrown1995 said:

Gareth,

 

Funnily enough, after reading your comment and checking the paperwork for the car that precedes my ownership (see attached- I got the date wrong that the battery was replaced, it was 2021, not 2018 as I originally stated) and googling the battery that was purchased and checking against my reg, all sites say that the battery is indeed not correct or compatible for my car, which brings me to question how it has and continues to run, fine? 

No idea on the coding front as was done by previous owner, I had no idea you even had to ‘code’ batteries? I thought that was only the case for start/stop batteries?

 

Em

 

Hi, I would like to dispel the myth that coding a battery is only for stop start equipped vehicles, with the advent of smart charging systems circa 2000 the coding/registering of batteries is required to inform the ECU that a new unit is fitted therefore the charging parameters have to change from maximum charge most of the time for a failing unit to a more fluid regime I.E.the alternator will only step up its charging to near maximum to maintain the batteries prescribed optimum voltage when using lights, heated screen, higher levels of blower use during the summer/winter, now throw in a battery that has not the right amp hour requirements even if coded the alternator has to work twice as hard to maintain the optimum voltage for that unit thus accelerating the alternator wear factor, when you consider old charging systems had to use a regulator to dissipate over voltage conditions by running the excess charge to ground, the new systems are smart insomuch as this never occurs and the alternator ceases to charge via the free wheeling clutch on the alternator until more voltage is required, hence the alternators generally speaking last longer.

Steve.

7 hours ago, fathands said:

Hello,

I’ve had the following code pop up on my diagnostics for a while now. 
looking at it’s description it is either:

Possible Causes

• Leakage in Intake and/or Exhaust System
• Catalyst faulty
• Oxygen Sensor(s) faulty
• Oxygen Sensor(s) Control fault

i don’t really want to just start throwing money at it by replacing a part at a time, is there any way to diagnose further?

Which o2 sensor may be faulty, how do I test them and what readings are out of tolerance?

I assume if the o2 sensors are testing ok, then the catalyst is likely to be the issue?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. 
 

Thanks

Andrew

Photo.pdf 25.73 MB · 3 downloads

Hi its probably the Cat becoming clogged my first go personally would be to give it a dose of Cataclean then  if its still playing up you may well have to replace both oxygen sensors as generally speaking they trade information and if you renew one on a car that old it will cause the other older sensor to fail, trying to test oxygen sensors that old would be a waste of time, try the cleaner first.

Steve.

21 hours ago, spartacus 68 said:

True Stevie, but if you start listing every potential diesel issue you’d never buy one.

This will be my last diesel. Have come from Audi 80 1.9 TDI, wife had A2 1.4 TDI, then A4 2.5 TDI Quattro, then Allroad 2.0TDI and my current Allroad 3.0 TDI. Throw in a couple of daily drivers including a Skoda Fabia 1.4 TDI and Polo 1.4 TDI.

What are the advantages? Better fuel economy, low end torque, engine longevity? All my previous Audis were at 150k plus, except my B8 Allroad which was just 65k miles and treated like a princess. My daily commute before Covid was 50 miles.

Euro 6 technology pushed diesel technology to the limits. Yes you can have lower emissions, but VAG engineers left potential ticking time bomb with EGR valves and AdBlue tanks.

What’s the option? Petrol? Forums are littered with excessive oil consumption threads or disintegrating rocker arm needle bearings. Electric, well funny you should mention that, wife now has BMW i3 REx, so hybrid. Cracking little car, but it has its quirks.

You have a couple of options and this has stood me well. Service it within an inch of its life. On 2.0TDI, then 8-10k oil changes miles. Fuel filter ever 20k miles. Run a can of Forte diesel conditioner through it under 1/4 tank and drive it like you stole it. Always get to temperature and use on journeys of up to 1 hour  minimum 2-3 days a week. Use premium diesel every few tanks.

If you’re spanner handy, get VCDS. I changed my attitude about mechanics when I was a nipper (circa late 90s) and discovered a ratchet still attached to the underside of my mum’s Vauxhall Astra 1.8 CD (incidentally not a diesel). Returned it to the service desk with a curt “I believe this is yours!”

 

Hi yes I agree with what you say in principle but the poster was asking what are the likely problems owning that model within a certain year band, the problem I quoted will happen at some point I had three coolers over 270k and it did not matter how much chemistry/care I lavished on the car that problem still persisted, there are legions of posts on this site about adblue and cooler problems its an inherent flaw with Audi A4/A6 within those years which is very much peculiar to the brand, you can't generalise its VAG engineering, no its Audi engineering, dont get me wrong I loved my car but over the miles the costs are prohibitive, ask yourself the question why are these cars being sold at around 80k, answer its around 80-100k the real fun and expense begins, I now have a VW Passat as a cab had it from 60k now on 100k and in terms of reliability and part costs it knocks spots off of the Audi and I would say in sports mode very little to choose between the two power wise as you are not dragging along all that weight.

Steve.

20 minutes ago, spartacus 68 said:

Just looked on Autotrader so £14k gets you a manual (66 plate) 2017, S Line Avant with around 65-80k miles. That’s the 2.0 TDI (190PS), £35 road tax, etc. That’s without Quattro.

Nothing wrong with manual 6-speed, but you’re reducing the potential number of cars with any searches. Again, absolutely nothing wrong with S Tronic box as long as it’s been serviced. So every 38k miles.

With 2.0TDI, whether low mileage or average miles say up to 80k, then timing belt and water pump need to have been done. Factor this in would be my advice, and replace every 5 years.

If you do same search with S Tronic Quattro you can get 17 plate with around 60-70k miles for around £16k. Road tax now £190.
 

Hi surprised no one has mentioned the dreaded low pressure EGR cooler thats common over the whole range of 2.0 engines CNHA,DETA .....what a hoot at around £600 for the parts and then the various gearbox seals etc, not to mention eight hours plus on the labour.

Steve. 

22 hours ago, cliffcoggin said:

I consider myself lucky to have paid no tax, (or Road Fund License as I still think of it,) for three years so I am not unhappy. Roads need to be paid for, and if it was not Rayner taxing us it would be another Chancellor of any political persuasion you care to name.

Sorry chaps, but I shall continue to discretely laugh up my sleeve at you unfortunate fellows paying exorbitant prices for liquid fuel plus duty plus 20% VAT, while I refuel on cheap overnight electricity plus 5% VAT.

Hi Cliff please feel free to laugh at us but when they start charging the electricity from the chargers at a vastly inflated rate circa 2027 we will all be on a level playing field, you did not think they were going to miss out on that one in view of the drop in fuel duty they predict they will get, no its all shaping up nicely, far more VAT on the new overpriced milk floats and getting rinsed for the electricity the other end, the day will be here soon when everyone will have fond memories of £1.45 a litre instead of £1.80 + a unit for electric, then you have the added bonus of owning something that depreciates faster than a lead balloon, add to this the higher carbon rates to produce the balloon you begin to wonder what is the point, I think its a case of the Kings New Clothes, most sensible lateral thinking people just dont buy it.

Steve.

9 hours ago, Anton8 said:

Possibly found a loop hole for all of us with 100% electric vehicles. Mine will need it's VED tax renewed in June. That means that it will attract the new taxation class and possible the luxury car tax as well, which starts in April. There is nothing to stop me from renewing by March 31st at zero VED and getting almost another year at zero rate until March 2026. I will try it anyway.

Hi well gents you did not expect the zero rating to last ?, they have pulled this stunt before but you dont expect Ms Rayner to miss that grabbing opportunity do you.

Steve.

1 minute ago, Weeder said:

Cliff,

Thanks, got it booked in with independent that advertises “ dealer level diagnostic”. We’ll see what they find tomorrow. Fingers crossed !!

Hi was the new battery coded to the car?, that would explain the lights on the dash if not, the low pressure fuel pump is probably he culprit for the fault, get them to check the live data on the pump when idling if its high it means the pump is struggling to keep up the pressure and is on its way out.

Steve.

2 hours ago, Kev-P said:

Hi All,

 

Would anyone know what size socket I need for the oil filter housing cap?

 

 

Hi either 27mm or 32mm unless they changed the sizes again, the correct size is stamped on the top of the housing.

Steve.

6 minutes ago, Borisk7 said:

Hi all. I got bank 1 sensor 1 showing on diagnostic but don't know the location of it. Any help would be appreciated.  P2251

Hi it should be on top of the cat but if you post a picture of the engine bay it should be easier to identify

Steve. 

8 hours ago, CHRI1111 said:

Sorry, forgot to mention it is an Audi 1.6 FSI 2006.

Try looking for a delete kit it holds the flaps in the right position so they never move, no more lights.

Steve.