Stevey Y

13 minutes ago, FirstG said:

Hi All,

Does anybody know if switching out interior lights to LED's would bring up a canbus error? 

Thanks 

Hi as long as you buy the slightly more expensive error free bulbs its perfectly ok, I don't think your interior bulbs are monitored anyway, could be wrong but if you use error free its not going to be a problem.

Steve.

2 hours ago, beegee said:

Audi a3 can anyone help with this issue nothing works on dash

Hi its probably the instrument cluster going wrong, it will need repairing, contact ECU Testing they are experts at repairing these and its a lot cheaper by a mile than a new unit which will need recoding to the car.

Steve.

3 hours ago, Ricky Moxon said:

Cheers I have tried this already. The break must be further up the loom.

Hi you did not mention if its back or front, my guess is rear as the cables tend to deteriorate behind the arch liner where the loom travels through the body work, joining them wont help as one is live and the other isa voltage pick up.

Steve.

10 hours ago, Howie Lemans a6 c6 said:

  I also have the same vehicle with the headlight intermittently switching off. Is that your problem? Someone mentioned the headlight ballast could be faulty. Could you elaborate on intermittent and have you fixed it and what bulb? Thank you. It may help me.

Hi I am pretty sure your bulbs are D3s which are readily available along with the ballast on eBay for not to much money, not worth changing just the bulb/ballast as if they are the originals they wear as a pair, personally I would do both sides, just done my daughters Q3 which has the same system, bulbs about £70 the pair, ballasts about £30 each and an easy job to do.

Steve.

7 hours ago, Confused said:

Hi everyone 

I'm looking to get both the dpf & egr removed or deleted which ever is better,( I've got error code P2002 plus been advised by Audi specialists my egr cooler has gone & the dpf, well who needs to replace one of those) but looking for somewhere reliable to do the work, any suggestions? I can get it done  round the corner from me but just have a feeling about the company that I just dont trust them. Oh any ideas on how much it will be. 

Thanks for any and all responses 

Hi if you get the DPF/EGR removed or deleted you will be forever getting dash warnings, no one has yet come up with a software that can delete the low pressure cooler which is I suspect the reason you are considering this route, please observe the following, if you remove the main EGR you raise both cylinder head temperatures as well as the turbo temperatures as the gas will be a lot hotter, this will also raise Nox1 emissions which the sensors in the exhaust stream will pick up hence the lights on the dash, I am pretty sure the code you have is p2002 particle filter bank one above threshold, the DPF is not itself blocked just the cooler, I have had a couple of these apart, also try and disseminate between the cooler and the main EGR which rarely gives trouble also might be worth looking at on site cleaning /mobile where they come to you and run cleaning solution through the exhaust system via the sensor hole on the cat.

Steve.

22 hours ago, Mark b7 said:

Hi Steve thankyou for your comment I wasn’t sure if it had the haldex system fitted to my car it’s a Audi A4 allroad 2012 20 tdi .

Hi if its four wheel drive most definitely.

Steve.

20 hours ago, Mark b7 said:

Hello I can’t seem to find information on changing manual gearbox oil if needs it car done 165000 and it’s 2012 model also need information on the Quattro system for me to get it serviced is it just a transmission fluid change .

Hi Mark, the gearbox oil change is easy enough drain plug at the bottom filler on the side, the trick bit is making sure you undo the filler plug first as they tend to be a real sod to get out if you drain it first and then can't get the filler out you are up poo creek, the Haldex is a different matter as you need the kit with the filter and oil, a word to the wise Haldex pumps have a filter screen on the pump so its worth taking it out and cleaning, on replacement put new seals on the entry neck of the pump or it will leak.

Steve.

1 hour ago, Adam2893 said:

Hi, new to the Forums apologies if this has previously been discussed. Does anybody know where you can get replacement inner rings for the air vents? Not the large rings as whenever I search for replacements I just get tonnes of adverts for multicoloured outer rings. The small silver ring that is on the knob in the middle of the vent where you can turn it?

Thank you  

Hi the rings are bonded to the unit, you may be better served going for used units as I should think new prices would buy you a seat on the next space shuttle.

Steve.

5 hours ago, Magnet said:

Apologies for the now understandable confusion in the middle. JasonJ who was a contributor to this thread is no longer with us. 
Kind regards,

Gareth. 

Hi Gareth Jason would of known what was what, everything that could be useless or misleading all available from google.

Steve.

16 hours ago, Bromchild said:

Hi folks,

1st time posting, be gentle 😂

I have a 2002 S6 Avant 4.2, now on 100k

I'm having a mechanic friend do my timing belt. I have belt kit, waterpump, thermostat, aux belt, tensioner, cam locking  bar/kit etc, etc and also the cam seals. I do most things myself but I'm definitely not keen on doing the timing belt myself.

Now, he's trying to tell me the cam seals are a massive job requiring the cam covers etc to be removed to do properly and basically refusing to change them if they're not leaking. I thought it to be good preventative maintenance?

Is it just a case of popping the cam sprockets off (I have the correct pullers) and changing the seals? To to the job correctly the sprockets need to be popped off slightly anyway do they not?

Many thanks 🙂

Hi Eric, I totally agree with your guy, not done the job myself but watched it being done over about eight hours and the next day was the belt change, the rear most cam timing has to be spot on after removing the sprockets, get it wrong and you will end up with 100ks worth of scrap metal, I can see his train of thought, if it aint broke don't fix it, reading between the lines mechanic friend denotes either a favour or a very cheap labour rate, I can understand his reticence.

Steve.

2 hours ago, S-Cronic said:

Very true Steve, the old ZF / Borg Warner Transmissions were pretty much faultless in days gone by, as I say, never had a problem with the units fitted to any of the BMW's I owned and they all did a fair amount of mileage, but once computers and twin clutches got involved it was all down hill from there, as for the FORD Power Shift units they are truly awful ! ... I'm sure you remember the early 70's and 80's Ford C3 and C4 gearbox which again was pretty much bulletproof, then again this was in the days of 3 and 4 speed transmissions, even my 1980's and 90's Audi 100 and A6 Auto boxes gave me no troubles at all, what went wrong ? now Audi have some of the worst reviews and comments online for their Multi-Tronic and S-Tronic gearboxes, and exactly why me and many others are on these forums sharing and trying to get diagnosis information !

But .... I love the A7 as a car, superb quality and pretty luxurious if we're talking interior fit and trim, and great looking cars, the 3.0TDi is a superb engine too if looked after and I'm sure there are owners out there who have not yet had a problem with their S-Tronic gearboxes and would probably wonder what on earth I'm going on about if they read this ( which they won't )

Just as an aside, I've heard it for many years, read untold reviews, and spoken to those I know in the trade who have travelled big distances to have their gearboxes repaired or replaced by them, I'm not in their employ or garnering any favours here when I say they are the absolute tops when it comes to really knowing Audi gearboxes in all guises, not the cheapest but certainly "The Best" if you want it done properly and professionally, the reviews online speak for themselves, MILTA Transmissions of Bristol, formerly Bristol Gearbox Centre I believe ?  and there are bound to be members on here that know of them such is their reputation and knowledge with all things when it comes to Audi Gearbox problems, it's where I will be going if my fault turns out to necessitate ANY internal gearbox work, these units need technicians that "Really" know them, not just guessing or "maybe it will fix it" scenarios. Do it right, do it once ......... Updates to follow as I know more over the coming days and weeks.

PS: Not buying VCDS, I have a friendly technician who lives near me who has multiple free Vin Codes package and is going to do a full read on Friday, but thanks for the heads up on the OBD 11 Pro Steve.      

Hi I only changed over to OBDEleven as I now have a 2021 passat and apparently that is fitted with SFD software which blocks a lot of coding functions to stop people from activating things on the vehicle as you used to be able to do with VCDS,OBDEleven are the only outside diagnostic producers to have an agreement between themselves and VAG, so there software produces a challenge code to VAG main servers and if that code is accepted they issue a token to allow you to perfofm the function, therefore they have a record of every vehicle thats been interfered with which they pass on to the dealerships anytime a trade in reg pops up.

Steve.

21 hours ago, cliffcoggin said:

I did not know a fuel temperature sensor existed on A3s. What is its purpose? I could understand diesel temperature being important in cold climates because diesel can throw a waxy sediment when it gets cold, but surely not in Newquay?

Hi Cliff they are on all later cars as the sensor lets the ECU know the temp of the returning fuel from the rail, this is because part of the returning fuel is used to supplement the level in the filter housing when the car is under heavy load, most of the fault codes that are thrown up by this sensor are either due to bad wiring or most likely air bubbles in the return where it can't read warm air.

Steve.

1 hour ago, S-Cronic said:

Going on full VCDS fault code read this Friday, talking to numerous Gearbox specialists and the excellent guys at "ECUtestingltd" (Excellent You Tube Video for anyone else with similar issues on here ) who really know these 7 speed S-Tronic gearboxes and Mechatronic units inside out ( and in fact do various work for Audi Main Agents ) it seems my symptoms point heavily towards a Mechatronic fault, maybe the pressure sensors, valves or most likely the circuit board itself just starting to break down and sending the wrong pulses at the wrong time ........ know more once we've pulled the codes, then hopefully its just a case of removing the Mechatronic unit and sending it off to be completely reworked with new hard and software.

Hi the mechatronic units normally suffer valve failure due to bad oil or as you said PCB failure, trouble is Audi tried to be to clever with the design and I don't think they ever sought the advice of ZF, lets face it they are the fount of all knowledge regarding automatic/ manual gearboxes and have produced most of the bullit proof boxes over the last ninety years but the manufacturers don't want to pay the design royalties, made me smile when you said about the reliability of the BMW units, where do you think they got their designs, instead we are left with the Ford power shift and multiple others that consistently fail due to inherent design flaws, PS Billericay boy myself and have many memories of walking through Hadleigh to get home because no taxi would take us out of area at that time of night, the reading will throw up the problems, as a rule that type of box needs a service every 30k or two years whichever comes first, with regard to purchasing VCDS you might as well buy OBDEleven it does the same as VCDS but at a fraction of the price and works on a credits system where as if you buy VCDS its all free  but is around £300 for the basic, I just bought OBDEleven Pro that does all Audi,VW, Bently ,Porsche and host of others with a hundred credits for £100.

Steve.

3 hours ago, jon sparham said:

I have fault code P0183 fuel temp sensor.

Does any body know where it is located on an A3 8p.

Thanks

 

Hi its usually on the fuel return pipe from the fuel rail.

Steve.

47 minutes ago, S-Cronic said:

So firstly Hello as a Forum newbie ! but not new at all to Audi as a brand, I apologise if this is a little drawn out but I'm definitely old school and been around the block a bit when it comes to cars, all will become apparent.

I'm going to be straight up from the word go here regarding my Audi journey, I first came to the brand way back in the 80's with my first Audi 100 and later the same but in an Avant, over the years I've had classic early 80's and later a couple of Quattro's from circa 1986 on a D registration and a 1987 on an E registration, I had two Audi A6's into the late 90's and by the 2000's I had worked my way though another A6 and an A8 ( business was good and so were the cars ) ........ BUT .... then I bought a 2009 A6 2.0 TDi Avant with the multi-tronic gearbox and it was nothing but a disaster, three times over 100,000 miles it had serious gearbox issues, so much so that when the last attempt to repair didn't resolve it I simply had had enough and I foolishly traded it in for another 2012 Avant, again with what I hoped would be a better experience, within 70,000 miles it too had failed and I decided there and then to go over to the dark side and bought my first 330d BMW Tourer, in 90,000 miles it never missed a beat, that gearbox in my mind was bulletproof and silky smooth, in late 2016 I sold that and got me a 530d M-Sport Tourer, again I did many European work trips and it never gave me a moments problem, in 2018 I had a life changing experience which focused my mind pretty intently to say the least, I sold the business, moved nearly 200 miles away from my home town and went to live on the West Coast of the UK, I didn't drive for a while, but when I did I bought a BMW 320d Tourer loaded with everything you could want and used that sparingly up until a few months ago, again I have to say that Auto box was faultless and it had 113,000 miles on it when I sold it ........

What has all this got to do with a post in the A7 section of this forum I hear you ask ? Well, not long after that a very good friend of mine offered me his 2011 Audi A7 3.0 TDi Quattro 250bhp S-Tronic which he had had since 2013 and bought from his local Audi Main Agent, I knew the car very well and it has always been serviced on time, had a full gearbox service and adaption at 60,000 miles, has the original purchase invoice with nearly £18,000 of factory extras, and every MOT from new, every service stamp, and every single invoice for anything he has bought or had done over his ownership, needless to say I have always admired the A7 3.0 TDi "Quattro" and with little persuasion I happily bought it as my motoring needs are simple now with rarely any long distance or European driving. It has now done 120,000 miles but I kid you not when I say it looks like a five year old car in and out, not even a car park or supermarket dent on it, not a single warning light or electrical fault, in fact it drove faultlessly ! ..... Note I say "Drove" not Drives ..... Last Friday I did a 400 mile round trip to Kent to see my elderly mother, on the way there I pulled into the services on the M25 at Fleet and as I slowed down on the slip road and into the car park the gearbox jolted and thumped slightly as it changed from 2nd to 1st, not harsh but noticeable, as I came to a stop the yellow "No reverse Gear" warning flashed up and indeed when I put it in reverse nothing happened !  a little stunned that history was once again repeating itself I turned it off went inside to grab a coffee and a re-think about my journey, when I returned it started as normal, no warning light went into reverse no problem at all ? off I went up the Motorway and all was smooth once more, fast forward as I came into Tunbridge wells and at the first roundabout off of the motorway as I slowed down once more it jolted into the last two gears and the dreaded "No Reverse" came on again, as I pulled away the change ups from 1st to 3rd were jerky and slightly higher revving than usual, luckily ( or unluckily) I've experienced similar before in the past with Audi and used the technique of knocking it into Neutral and coasting to a stop before engaging Drive again to pull away.

Long story short I made it my Mother's by this technique and every time I shut it off the warning goes away, reverse returns and you can you can drive it with impunity providing you don't do any stops from 7th gear to 1st, around town and in low gears its sort of fine, and it drove back the nearly 200 miles without fault until I stopped in a petrol station where as I came to a halt the yellow warning and "No Reverse" returned, but turned it off, went and paid and when I restarted it had gone again and all was well ? 

I like to think I'm not a novice or no clue mechanically having owned and supplied parts for Motor Vehicles (especially classics for many many years ) I've read many of the technical bulletins on these gearboxes, watched untold amount of professionally made You Tube videos from gearbox specialists, Mechatronic reconditioning companies, long term owners etc on the perils of the S-Tronic 7 Speed DL-501 which I believe my vehicle has, I have lost count of the amount of stories online concerning symptoms of this gearbox that Audi themselves farm out to other garages, quote for a New Gearbox, or simply don't want to touch the older out of warranty examples, I know I could go down the route of DIY programming, holding the throttle down for 30 seconds etc ( in fact done that, works for a day only ) or have a reconditioned or later circuit board Mechatronic unit fitted and hope that works, as an aside there is no burning smell whatsoever so hoping the clutches are good as this has only just started to happen in past few days, Its mainly the jerky, slightly clunky downshift in low gears ( 1st & 2nd) throwing the warning light, everything is smooth and silky, and as I say it goes away every time you turn it off and sometimes depending on how you come to a stop in traffic it doesn't happen, but at the next set of lights or queue of traffic it will ?

Sooooo .... my question here is really to any Tech Guys on this forum who know their stuff, have experienced this problem themselves, or have fixed this fault by way of "Pattern" parts or non manufacturer parts ( which I can probably source through my contacts ) but just thought I'd ask the question as I'm always open to "Good Sound" advice, no guessers or "Go to a Main Agent" advice please, I'm a bit past that and am cynical for a reason with my dealings with Main Agents on older higher mileage vehicles ( of any brand ! ) although in fairness some are way way better than others.

Its an old but really lovely thing, seeing is believing but I'm not about to throw silly money at it, sensible yes, but not silly.

Thanks Folks, sorry to have waffled on, I hope you are enjoying your A7's as much as I was enjoying mine ! ............ Vehicle specific targeted advice gladly welcomed.             

Hi it could well have been the mechatronics unit and you have said you have tried the reset which only works on a temporary basis, but at no point have you mentioned getting the vehicle scanned preferably with VCDS, you can also do a gearbox reset with the same system, I have heard a lot of this with well serviced cars but most people forget about gearbox services every 30k which are critical to the longevity of this type of box.

Steve.

4 hours ago, Lola said:

Hi there... Just brought a 2011 audi a1 1.6 TDI.. It has 97k miles, 3 owners from new and looks and drives mint! 

No smoke from exhaust but is a little smoke from oil cap and dip stick when hot... Dealer says all lile this and is expected with those miles on the engine but my dad is worried its a bad sign.? Any advice please 

Hi could well be the breather on the rocker cover is becoming blocked so the gas will take the path of least resistance, dipstick/oil filler cap.

Steve.

4 hours ago, Sheffield Col said:

Hi, many thanks for the replies, the car is not actually mine, it belongs to my GF. I will have a look first chance I get and see what bulb's are fitted. 

Hi Colin, if she is anything like my missus the nagging is off the Richter scale, please if possible post some pics, I imagine from your first post it could be something as simple as a bad earth.

Steve.

2 hours ago, Simon7 said:

Morning all,  new user here any after some real world advice.

I am currently downgrading my car due to a house move. 

I have found a 2011 Audi Q5 2.0tdi SE quattro 143ps manual.  It has done 109,000 miles and has had 3 owners with the seller having had it 5 years.  It looks in very good condition and has been well looked after.

Can anyone give me any advice, what potential issues/costs might I incur and potential prices of repairs.  I need it to be a cheap as possible but fully appreciate I am buying a 12 year old car with high mileage.  I have never done this before, I always buy nearly new!!

Thanks in advance

Simon

Hi the milage is not so much of a worry as they do that with ease provided they have been serviced regularly, ask for any service history the main ones being clutch and timing belt changes as if there is no evidence at that milage they could be looming heavy expenses especially if the car is auto, having said that the best way is to have a diagnostic read out before purchase this will unearth any underlying problems.

Steve.

2 minutes ago, m33ufo said:

All went smoothly. No issues with coding. I ended up changing the complete calliper and actuator assembly - the new  one feels super smooth in comparison to the original. 

Thanks for your assistance. 

Hi on the contrary, thank you for posting your resolution as it gives the other people who read this a chance, as so many people just fix the problem and never post the resolution, its like watching a really good film and the TV packs up fifteen mins from the end, I wasn't quite sure about the coding at first and then dredged my memory about the electrical shunt which I was told about a long time ago, it performs the way a can bus does by fooling the control module in to thinking its the original, this is also done on most aftermarket alternators to get round the coding drama. 

Regards Steve.

2 hours ago, jasonj said:

 

Jasonj

Hi is that really the best you can do, another YouTube video, I wouldn't mind but its not even the same suspension set up the video demonstrates Mcpherson strut suspension with a bearing turret top mount, Not static shock absorber with multilink pivotal hub steering, I am now convinced you are not even close to informed about what you are quoting and don't understand the dynamics of the suspension type on the posters vehicle.

5 hours ago, pete2477 said:

Bought a Audi Q2  2lt tdi quattro 

As soon as I picked it up the engine management  light cam on 

Returned to dealership and was told needed the two add blue pipes replacing that was done 

Picked it up again 3 miles later the lights back on again !!!

Once again returned to dealership 

New diagnosis  aðd blu  tank fault heater not working they have ordered this back In Dec. 23  and told.me.its on back order 

They have told me it's OK.to druve the car as normal ??

Could this cause any other problems.to the vehicle  

Thanks 

 

Hi I doubt it will affect the car as the only reason the car will stop is if the ECU has been told there is no more adblue and the ECU shuts down the ignition, all the old pony about Adblue failure burning up the pistons is simply not true, how many owners are floating around out there with the adblue deleted years ago the whole system is gauged towards an emissions enforcement strategy.

Steve.

11 hours ago, jasonj said:

Hi Ben ,  The mechanic at the MOT, has obviously checked any of the usual arms and linkages .

So That would suggest  to possible Drive shaft .?  Jasonj 

Well I hate to point out that you would have to have the vehicle on a four poster ramp with the wheel off and a large pry bar to check if the bushes have gone soft or drop link travel, and if you could please explain why the topmount on this model fails, I await your empirical deliberations.

8 hours ago, David021 said:

I tried the other key , same issue. 

But I will try to change the battery in my main key, maybe it will help. 

Hi David, you will often find the spare key battery is in a worse state than the one you use as the batteries run down quickly when not used, if you change the batteries in both fobs and still have the same problem the chances are that the pick up ring that circles the key port is intermittently not getting the right information from the transducer in the key fob.

Steve.

9 hours ago, SJOKZ said:

Hi guys,

I recently had my engine management light come on (the day before my audi extended warranty expired).

It was out of hours, so had an Audi Tech come out via AA and audi roadside assist who diagnosed a nox sensor fault and error P200200.

I have now had diagnostics done at an Audi dealership who said that it needs a new low-pressure exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) cooler, as it is blocked and a new NOX sensor.

I'm waiting to hear if these repairs will be covered under warranty as I was covered when the light came on.

Does anyone know if it is covered or have had this repaired under Audi Extended Warranty?

The cost of the repairs are:

NOX sensor - £1093

EGR cooler - £2456

The dealership don't seem to very helpful so not hopeful they will come back with positive result.

If this is the case do I stand a chance of fighting the decision?

Any advice appreciated.

Thanks

Hi go find a decent independent if not covered by warranty usually around a grand.

Steve.

2 hours ago, Azhar said:

I broghut Auid A5 sportback 2023, getting audi pre sense malfunction please contact service, please let me know how get ride of this, Is it safe to drive car?

Hi you wont get rid of this one easily its either the sensor heading east or my humble guess it needs a software update.

Steve.