Phils2

I'd start by getting it to about 2 bars and check the rad and both hoses.

How many miles does it take to get to 90? Did it used to heat up faster? How long have you had the car? If either front and or rear are set to hot from a cold start, it will take longer to heat up. Is the main radiator and both inlet and outlet hoses the same temp as it warms up? When I got mine, I made them put a stat in, because I thought it was taking too long. When mine gets up to temp on the motorway, it stays there, does yours?

The STP lowers the combustion temperature of the soot. I've heard good things about Dipetane, but never used it long term. The DPB-100 is cetane booster and has several other benefits. They both go in every tank. @Stevy, you nearly sold me on OBDEleven, till i kept reading. I never thought about the ambient temp vs regens, I've heard the same about the returns thing recently,but having mine for over ten years it's not something I need to deal with. I can't understand why so many people want to return it. Yeah, with the gen 1 and 2 adapter, it was 'pull your !Removed! hair out time' due to !Removed! connections. But the gen 3 is flawless. I also have genuine VCDS from Gendan, but Carly is so much easier for diagnostics and live data. It'll only regen when the pressure goes up, or possibly when it's covered a certain amount of miles or even when the soot loading gets to a certain level. Her soot level gets to between 15 and 25 grams. Now you've got carly, you can monitor it regularly to watch the soot level and differential pressure rise over time. I'd definitely recommend fully synthetic oil (well known brand) and Bosch, Mann, or some other top quality filter, same goes for fuel air and pollen filter.

Sweet. Let me know how you get on. The "live data" has soooo many to chose from. I selected, coolant temp, exhaust temp( 3 of them) Exhaust back pressure and soot level (critical to monitor, as these will tell you roughly when regen will occur). I always try to make sure the regen has completed, even if it means taking her car out once she got home from work. Named brand fuel (doesn't have to be premium),Hydra's DPB-100 and STP dpf regenerator also get used in hers, and my laguna(and previous to that, my BMW. Just got rid of the 2005 318d M Sport with 243,000 miles on original dpf. I did have it cleaned professionally, but turns out the injectors were just getting leaky, making the dpf fill up too fast.

I've got 'all brands', yearly subscription. Worth It's weight in gold. Even if used a few times a year. Carly (previously Bmwhat) had lots of issues over the years, but now with the latest gen 3 universal adapter, it's great.

I've read through all of this forum and the 190 seems to have more problems (maybe more of them?) than the 177. My wife has a 2012 SE 177, with 146,000 miles and it's had one egr cooler, that's all. I regularly check the dpf with carly.

C'mon Johnny.

If it's the same as mine, take the inner rear indicator out and put on a radiator for at least a few hours. Then put some sealant around the seal (I just used silicone grease) and reinstall. I've just caught my left one early and (hopefully) fixed it this way. My right, I left too long and had to buy a new (genuine)one. The left had no condensation, the right, did.

I've had 3 cars recently with loose drop link nuts.

Guess not lol.