Trevor

Hi Mark I would suggest it is a faulty sensor or wiring connector attached to it. If the oil level is fine and not too thin (washed down with fuel) then it's worth taking a chance on the sensor. I would certainly get it checked sooner than later just in case. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

Hi Mohammed...welcome to the forum! Did the noise start when you had the Hankooks fitted? I have battled with this problem before and it was the tyres...changed them for another brand..sorted! Maybe worth seeing if you can borrow a set of different wheels/tyres for a short period to see if there is any change? Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

Hi Rob...I have move this post into Cars for Sale as well as leaving a link here...may help to attract interested parties. By the way...it looks great in that trim! Cheers Trevor

That still could be a clutch fault but worth checking how much the engine moves backwards/forwards as in a faulty engine mount...just a thought

If the service history is with Audi themselves and the chain has broken I would imagine it is down to them as you could have had no influence in diagnosing or damaging the chain. Broken timing chains and tensioners/guides is quite common on a lot of diesel engine cars nowadays...Nissan X-Trail, Ford 2.0 TDCi to name but a few, but not so common on petrol engines that I know of. Please keep us informed on how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

Hi Martyn...welcome to the Forum I would imagine it just needs a clear out. Would advise running a cleaning additive through the engine and use each time you fuel up until it clears itself...generally works a treat. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

Hi Mahidul....welcome to the Forum The car looks great! Not sure where I would go next, except for maybe a debadge? Keep us updated with your mods Cheers Trevor

In normal circumstances Gareth I would agree if it was carrying a large current, but I think (i may be wrong) that the connection on the strut top is a potentiometer type sensor and it is only measuring a reference height for the suspension so it will only either raise or lower the headlights if its the wrong way round. As I said, I might be wrong but I would measure the reference voltage first to determine if it is high enough to do damage to wiring, etc. before attempting to reverse the connections. Thanks for offering the advice though, it is important to check these things first, otherwise take it to a competent auto electrician to avoid damaging any systems.

Hi Tilly...welcome to the Forum If there are only two wires there, I would try it one way and if going the wrong way just swap them around. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

Larger brake discs is all relative to heat build up and dissipation with a larger surface area but essentially the braking effort will only be increased by the clamping effort of the calipers (four, six pistons,etc). The first thing I would do to improve braking at very little cost is to convert over to steel braided hoses (Goodridge supply them) and see how you get on.

I would think it may be a sensor fault...gummed up with oil/soot? Can you by-pass the sensor?

Hi Paul...welcome to the forum Sorry to hear you've had a nightmare of a time so far. I would check the rear of the cams (if fitted with gears to synch the cams) as did a similar job on an Alfa recently and found the gears were out of phase as had moved on the cams with having keyless pulleys when the pistons hit the valves, took me a while to suss that one out....just a thought! Also, if fitted with hydraulic lifters, maybe empty them out before fitting. Alternatively, you may be right about the height of the valves being incorrect Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

Hi Dave The adjustment should only alter the firmness of the spring and not really the ride height. You would need to replace the springs with ones that haven't got so much drop height on them. It shouldn't be an issue with retaining the adjustment adapter I wouldn't have thought, which would allow you to tighten up the handling to where you want it. Let us know how you get on with it. Cheers Trevor

Hi Ricky...welcome to the forum Sounds like the clutch as sometimes they can make a similar sound when under load, but generally that should occur in any gear when down shifting Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

Hi Craig...welcome to the Forum Sounds like the S mode is selected by default...not sure if you can programme it out using VagCom or similar? Let us know what you find out Cheers Trevor

Hi Jay...welcome to the Forum Not sure about the compatibility issue but here is a link to some ebay sites where they might know if you email them directly http://www.audiownersclub.com/parts-results/A6-S6-RS6/Subframes--Mounts/174094 Cheers Trevor

I would imagine bridging the wires would complete the circuit to switch the lamp off (if the code is showing open circuit) but does it affect the engine smoothness at all?

Hi Carl....welcome to the Forum I think you will need all of the components to complete the upgrade (e,g, caliper carriers, etc) ...best to look for a breaker to get all the parts Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

I can't see where the hoses go off to but they look low pressure as only have jubilee clips on them which could just need tightening up slightly. Also, worth seeing what colour the fluid is, engine oil, Power Steering Fluid, etc. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

Hi Robert....welcome to the Forum. I can only imagine that it is a fault door locking servo motor in the door although I would check there is not a fuse that may control the individual door locks. Otherwise if you lock the doors with the central locking override switch inside the car and if that door locks then it can't be the motor, maybe just a connecting link to the latch mechanism. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

Hi Gavin...welcome to the forum Sorry no one has responded to your query yet...I must admit that I do not know whether it will work or not but I guess there's only one way to find out. Let us now how you get on with it once you get your new A4. Cheers Trevor

Hi Angela...welcome to the forum! I guess nobody has done the mod yet....or if they have, they're not sharing it Are you planning to do this on your Audi? Cheers Trevor

Hi Doug...welcome to the Forum Was hoping you would have had some replies by now. I would also like to know the answer to this as well. Will pop this up as a featured post to see what responses we get Cheers Trevor

Hi Mat if you don't get a recode anything electrical introduced into the system can throw up faults and also lighting system can be affected. Always worth fitting it and seeing what does/doesn't work and then worry about just getting it coded into the CanBus system then. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

Hi Bart You certainly do have a big problem there... I think you may be right with your diagnosis although I would check the aerial receiver for the immobiliser around the ignition switch, wiring and connectors first for any faults and then you may be right with the instrument panel as that is the gateway for the CanBus and any problem there can cause the issues you are experiencing. Let us know how you get on with Cheers Trevor