spartacus 68

Avoid going to Halfords, I mean that genuinely. For some things, especially batteries then the main dealer is more reasonable than you think. Likely an AGM battery, and it needs coded to the car. On a B8 model, I’d say it still needs coded to the car. This can be done if you know someone with VCDS.

Ideally scan the car with VCDS to see if it identifies the module that’s not communicating. There’s a Bluetooth module, but I’m guessing. An auto electrician is probable a safe bet with access to diagnostics. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/RS4C/605/0/035/35010 Not sure if this unit is under passenger side seat or in boot given cabriolet could be a different set up given potential for the interior to get a soaking.

See if you can do a MMI factory reset and then search for the phone. Radio signal and poor reception are normally antenna related. As far as I know the antenna on a cabriolet is built into the rear window, so start looking at broken or damaged connections there. Search LLL parts for more details.

No video upload. Your best bet is to upload to YouTube and link from there. Rotational sounds could be anything, stone stuck between brake shield and rotor, sticky brake piston, wheel bearing (tends to give dull drones at 40-50mph). Also flat spots on tyres.

To be honest this is specialist territory, there’s Decimal Tenths which is close to you, or drive to VAG Technic in Dudley.

Usually scan with VCDS to see if any error codes. He's a similar issue and how it was resolved.

See if you can cross reference it here. There are huge numbers of spring options available, depending on electronically controlled dampers, standard, sport, etc. The springs should have coloured dots. Frustratingly LLL Parts don’t give a particular breakdown in this instance. Double check with your engine code. This is for 2017 S5 Coupe/Sportsback. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A5CO/897/5 Don’t under-estimate work to fit. It’s a Quattro, so space is limited. You’ll need coil spring compressors and a bottle jack to extend the lower arm. I’d disconnect the shock absorber too. Replace the rear spring seats too, likely they are corroded. Check bump stops while you are there. No reason to adjust the rear subframe, but if you do, only one bolt at a time. Also watch you don’t release the eccentric bolt on the lower arm or you’ll need to get the camber realigned. You might want to get the car 4 wheel tracking done for peace of mind afterwards. In terms of brands, Suplex has good reputation.

Pay to use erWIN is probably your best bet.

Think your best bet is to phone a few VAG transmission specialists in the central belt, agree on repair and estimate cost. Drive through and leave the car and get a train or bus back. Now unless you’re on the islands, then you could spend a few days in Glasgow and then return with car once fixed. It’s difficult to assume anything with transmissions, so only once it’s checked, can they repair or replace parts. Inverness Audi would take a kidney as part payment as you know.

Is the car driveable?

What make are the pads and rotor? Is there excessive corrosion on the brake carrier so it’s lost shape. Have a look at diagrams here and cross-check on your engine code. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A6/448/6 For brake sliders, pad shoulders and piston face use a little ceramic brake grease. The brake carrier bolts should be okay to undo if you’ve new hardware. These bolts tend to seize if left untouched for periods of time.

Looks good. Do you know the age of the car the rear subframe came off? I know it's belt and braces to renew the bushes. No idea how to replace, either pushed out with a press or drawn out with threaded bar and cup. You find more details on erWIN (pay to view).

Any pics? There are ride height sensors on rear passenger and front passenger side. Works with headlight levelling, etc.

Not sure what else to suggest. A mechanic will get a pry bar on the lower arm bushes. Any flex, then swap it out. On the bright side you’re rebuilding the front suspension piece by piece. 😉 Double check the coil spring hasn’t lost an end and it’s sitting properly. I’m sure if you had top mounts done that would have been spotted.

Load it to YouTube and link it from there.

Could be leaky injectors. Not suggesting you replace the injectors. You could pull them, clean and replace the copper seating washers. Not sure if there’s an ‘o’ ring on the main mode of the injector too? If you do pull them, replace the bolts, they are stretch bolts and torque to yield, once only. Use a little ceramic grease on refitting. If an injector was damaged, I’d expect a further error code. Any new injector needs to be coded to the car. P0420 error likely to be inefficient catalytic convertor. Not sure any of the off the shelf products work. If it were me, you could try Forté products, including injection cleaners. Another option is to access primary oxygen sensor to inspect the cat itself. A lot of work, yes, but only way to confirm visual inspection with endoscope camera (with light) that works with your phone, just to be sure it’s not broken up. Bear in mind this was a crash damaged car.

Don’t skimp on budget is my advice. I understand you’re looking at B&O, but that needs to dovetail with car model, engine and gearbox and even colour. B&O was expensive feature, so it’s not likely to be found on poverty spec car. If you find B&O, then it’s bound to have leather, folding mirrors, possibly virtual cockpit would be my experience. Retrofitting anything is expensive, and usually you need VCDS to remove codes, even if plug and play. I know this is on an Allroad brochure (2017), but it elaborates on the comfort and sound packs. https://autocatalogarchive.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/Audi-A4-Allroad-2017-UK.pdf Trim level aside, you want history and lots of it. On cars that have been on long service intervals, personally I’d give them a wide berth. No oil should be in the car for 18k miles. Be prepared to travel too, once you’ve done your due diligence checks. Additional checks such as Car Vertical which you pay for are useful.

VCDS Hex2, absolutely no question. You can source from Gendan. You get OBD cable and lifetime updates. 3 VIN licence will cover your car, plus whatever you source in the future. Works across VAG range of cars. On air suspension, if you’re fitting yourself, you might even need specific feature to ‘relearn system’ after installation, similar to panoramic sunroof synchronisation or one touch windows. On VW Golf 8 for example, you can’t even swap out rear pads without access to ODIS which is dealer level software, so you can see the way things are going.

Lot of car for the money. Personally, I’d opt to change the oil every 6-8k miles. This will be a Tiptronic transmission 8-speed and generally bullet-proof, but again, if it were me, get the fluid changed. Yes, Audi will tell you it’s sealed for life, but ZF who make them have a service kit. Turbos, your guess is as good as mine. Don’t hammer it, and if you do, make sure it’s warmed up.

Assume these are heater water jets? At £30 each or so, it is what it is. EBay, then you’ve no idea, possibly cheap Chinese made and boxed as authentic. Link here, there’s a left and right part number. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/AQ5/751/9/955/955010

The car needs to be scanned with VCDS. The fact the fault is intermittent will still register the error, and time it happens. Given it’s the gearbox, then act sooner rather than later to have it checked. This gearbox needs an oil and filter service every 38k miles.

Not aware of specific OBD readers that will clear what is a very specific fault. VCDS will see it and you can clear the DTC. Side note, how old is the battery? These cars are sensitive to battery degradation, and wouldn’t put it past Audi not to have checked. A cheap multimeter is handy. Get AGM and code it to the car if it’s in any way suspect. For VCDS, you can get a 3-VIN package from Gendan for £222. Personally, get one with a case. What does that get you? Access to Rosstech software updates for life, update to OBD dongle on occasion. You just need a cheap laptop to run it on. Worth its weight in gold. https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VCV23NC.html

Most wiring for hatchback/coupe boot lids will enter the car near the hinge. Usually a rubber grommet, and not unheard of to have a break or some other anomaly there, so worth investigating. Regards the alarm horn, I’ll bet it had a failed rechargeable Ni-Cd battery in it and the previous owner stripped it out. More details here. https://www.ttforum.co.uk/threads/how-to-mk1-alarm-siren-fix.73315/ Getting the car connected to VCDS would help. If you’re chasing wiring diagrams, consider subscribing to ErWIN. You can buy access for a day and download or print what you need. https://audi.erwin-store.com/erwin/showHome.do

Pretty sure you'll need to undo drive shaft bolt and remove lower balljoint so you can withdraw driveshaft and CV from hub to see. A wobble impact triple square is handy. See videos for Dave Sterl on YouTube. He's done A4, so can't see A3 being different. You'll need a new driveshaft bolt, and torque with wheel off the ground. Bearing wise, F.A.G. every time. Make sure hub face is spotless before fitting. Wire brush attachment on a drill, that sort of thing.

Looks like Scuba Blue, however, check the build sticker in the boot recess, assuming this has a space saver, you’re looking for LX5Q or similar.