spartacus 68

Wonder if it's an impulse sender then? They list one for AKE engine under 071957147. Item (17). Your best bet is speak to Audi parts rather than guess. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A4Q/249/9/906/906015

I'll take another look later on. Autodoc can be a bit of a lottery unless you have Audi part number to cross-reference. There's also erWin (pay to view).

Is it engine code BAU (132kw)? Search on Autodoc quoting your registration. My understanding is they are 3-pin hall sensors, and will be located near or behind timing belt cover on both banks. You can also double-check on LLL Parts and access diagrams (likely under electrical), not engine.

Agree with Steve, scan car rather than guessing. As mentioned, could be anything, high pressure fuel pump, skipped a tooth on timing, etc. Tool of choice would be VCDS.

Agreed regards suspension, that said, a Q7 50 TDI isn't a lightweight. Could be hydrabushes on lower arms. Top arms usually knock when worn.

Window regulators are fiddly, but usually straight forward. Weather isn’t on your side just now. Reckon we’ve had 2 weeks of rain where we are. Ideally this is an under cover job, decent lighting and warm. If you’re buying time, then Gorilla tape on the inside may help hold the glass up. I’ve replaced window motor on BMW i3, but similar approach. On this car you can access by removing door skin or interior. On opening the doors, the window drops, suspect coupe is the same, on closing the door, the window automatically rises an inch. Scanned with ISTA. Motors either fail due to water ingress, corroded electrics, or snapped cables. Usually a case of stripping off door card, removing vapour barrier (usually foam membrane). New from Audi will be expensive. You should be able to order from EBay from a breaker such as Charles Trent. Unfortunately this market is unregulated and there are more than a few charlatans, so check feedback before ordering. Order exactly the same part number. Usually held in place with 10mm nuts, Torx screws, etc. You’ll probably have door electrics, stereo speaker to disconnect. Work clean and don’t stress the wiring. Test the window before you reaffix the door card. I’d be tempted to disconnect battery and place on trickle charge while working, or pull the fuse at least.

C7 AdBlue tank is 17 litres. Normally the message will say top up 8 litres. If you’ve put in 30 litres, then it’s gone somewhere.

If it was CalMac, good luck! I’m sure will be fine, as long as departing pier has height adjustable ramp to deal with tides.

Depends how bad the oil leak is. Get the engine steam cleaned or degrease and hose it down (with the engine running I might add). I'd fit a new belt and take the gamble. Assume you're with AA, etc. Personally, avoid motorways. If the worst should happen, it's not a nice place to be. Alternative is hire a car trailer if your current car has ability to tow, and you're within legal limits, etc. If all else fails, just pay to get it transported.

Suspect 5w30. You can double check on Castrol’s site. As long as VW 504 00/507 00 compliant. Use Edge LL and change every 8-10k miles. Mann filters are OE.

My understanding of damaged PCV valve is excessive oil consumption and rough idle, although you say yours improves once warm. This video any use? Regards injectors, you could pull them and get a flow test done, plus get them ultrasonically cleaned. Mark them as they are coded to the car. There’s a few videos on YouTube regards VCDS and injector values. Carbon build up on injectors would cause a bad idle.

If you have access to live data, can you see fuel flow on injectors? Any compression blow-by on injectors you can feel? If you remove injectors, then you’ll need new copper washers, o rings and new torque down bolts. Injector recess needs to be spotless. Cylinder compression seems fine in terms of tolerances within each other. Wiring look fine, no chaffing you can see, near heat shield or otherwise.

If CNHA engine, it’s located on engine block cylinder head. Also known as hall sensor (14) on this link. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A6/717/1/103/103052 Crankshaft sensor here too (15) near bell housing: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A6/717/1/103/103050

Pads usually come with new shims. The shims have flexibility to bend slightly, and again in my experience are usually a tight fit, and even worse if there's corrosion on the pad carrier. There's always the chance pads were wrong in terms of part number right from the get-go, unless you have paperwork and you can cross check?

Couple of links here for 2018 model. This is European build. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/RSQ3/764/2 https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/RSQ3/764/9/906/906000 Looks like Lambda O2 probe after catalyst is 07K906262B, Bosch part. Double check this via Audi parts. £186.50. Can get that for half the price I'm sure via Autodoc, although you might be looking at 10 days or so. Check wiring though, as the sensor may be fine. VCDS handy for this type of job. If you disconnected cable to sensor before catalytic convertor, then that would trigger DTC error, if you're trying to pinpoint one or the other.

On a 2021 car, you can probably wait until later in the year to get the timing belt changed. That said low mileage is still no guarantee, or is a visual check of the belt. If you’re keeping the car, get it done is my advice. As mentioned, VAG are constantly revising timing belt intervals for their cars in order to remain competitive. Ultimately it comes down to your attitude to risk. Audi introduced long service intervals of up to 18k miles which was utter madness, primarily for fleet buyers or private cars on finance deals, so servicing costs would reduce. Of course when 3 year PCP deals ended, the cars were back on the forecourt and it’s usually unsuspecting owners down the line who have footed the bill due to excessive engine wear. I can guarantee if the belt snaps, the service manager will remark it’s highly unusual. Audi may throw in a goodwill payment in kind, but who knows. Anyway, we’ve given you the facts. Best of luck to you.

Not unheard of to have worn wheel bearings. Reverberating sound at 40-50mph is usually tell-tale which alternates on left or right hand corners. Sometimes difficult to determine simply by spinning wheel, even if it spins, with Quattro (AWD). I’ve usually dismantled to rotate the actual hub and get a feel from there. If it is a bearing, the renew in pairs. F.A.G. brand is all I’d fit given labour involved. You can rule out tyres if you go to a tyre shop, check it’s not lost weights and any tyre flat spot. Grinding could have been corroded brakes if it’s been sitting in the damp for some time. If car new to you, then VCDS scan worth it for any logged DTC faults.

Sounds like you need a brake dismantle and rebuild. Depends on the caliper set up, but in my experience, there’s usually a stainless steel shim that the pad shoulders sit in the carrier. Usually a smear of ceramic anti-seize on the backs or contact edges. Brembo means nothing I’m afraid in terms of quality these days, it depends where the pads were manufactured, and overall quality. Personally I like Zimmermann and TexTar products. I think the car would probably have come with ATE pads. If they’re loose in the carrier, then something isn’t right. I’ve also seen issues with loose pads from corroded brake carriers, seized brake sliders, etc.

Interesting import. Regards upgrades. These are rarely economical, unless the car is a long-term keeper, however coming from a BMW 650i to an SUV, then it’s about what you want, rather than need. There are lots of Audi retro-fitters, so anything is possible. Couple of things I’d point out. Pretty sure Q3 is Haldex, so keep on top of servicing. You can read more into it yourself, depending on version and removal of filter, as well as oil change. I’ll bet Singapore roads aren’t full of potholes. If you’re thinking of larger road wheels, then consider any impact on handling or ride quality.

To be honest I'm not aware of low reliability on 4WD quattro system, quite the contrary. In normal usage, rear diffs are good for 100k miles plus before treating them to a gear oil change. I started to think, was it a Haldex related thing, as this is common fault on Q3, S3, if not serviced? Quick scan - finds a couple of links. There's a control solenoid that engages the rear diff. Now it got me thinking - is this Quattro Ultra, but I don't think it is, as that apparently works on revised central lock differentia, so basically 2WD majority of time unless the wheel loses traction and system engages 4WD? I suspect real reason is that anything that's mechanical and engages and disengages needs to be fit for purpose. The teeth or ridges on the clutch fork don't look up to the job, possibly not hardened sufficiently. Shows the solenoid and how it works: https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=1317144666299348 Shows the read diff disassembled, and wear on shift fork. I wonder if Audi have revised this part - as it flags up a few times?

Remember with suspension, final torque with vehicle weight on ground or you’ll stress bushes. I’m going to treat myself to Milwaukee impact driver for my birthday, cracking tool. Have air impact gun, but it didn’t have torque to undo front carrier brake bolts which were seized on. Handy attachment is swivel socket.

They will quote chapter and verse and you’ll be even more confused. It’s not just the belt, it’s the bearings on the pulleys. New kit comes with tensioner pulley, etc. normal course is to replace water-pump and auxilliary belt too.

Injectors need new bolts and usually clamps. I would do all 6 too, plus new seals. Half the battle is getting injector out.

Sounds like you’ve had a mare with the car. Good job on the injectors. Leave the suspension until the spring. Trust me you don’t want to be arguing with multi-link suspension in the winter. Days are short, it’s cold and I can guarantee you will have seized bolts. For the suspension, invest in PlusGas penetrating release. Always wire brush exposed threads before undoing, and a propane torch is handy too. If your budget stretches, invest in air hammer. Milwaukee 1/2” impact driver handy too.

The B8 A4 made from 2008 to 2015. I think B8.5 (facelift) introduced around 2013. Tell-tale was going from round to square front fog-lights if trying to tell-apart. B9 from 2016 onwards, with facelift around 2020. Then Audi in their wisdom reincarnated A4 to A5.