spartacus 68

Suspect some sort of pyro fuse. It’s usually a safety related thing to cut power to the starter and fuel pump in the event of a collision if airbags have been deployed. Use VCDS and multimeter once that’s been replaced, as you may have other things given this is a crash damaged car.

Replace in pairs. There’s a danger of damaging the diff otherwise. On the N/S tyre, suspect it’s not the air suspension as such. Our roads are full of potholes. You need an inspection on the front multi link arms and bushes to check for damage. Then get full 4 wheel laser alignment. Also check air pressures. I’m sure car has onboard system if one was over or under inflated.

In my experience these service packs are normally tied in with finance and a waste of money. It covers one oil change as minor service and the following year a major service, which is basically air, pollen and oil, plus possibly spark plugs if petrol. There's normally a mountain of small-print too regards engines up to 2.0 litre.

Typical Audi. Double check the small-print of your contract. These service offers are always weighted and aren’t comprehensive. Generally speaking, then brake fluid in a new car will be fine for first 3 years, then every 2 years thereafter. After car is 3 years old (manufacturer’s warranty expires) and your service schedule too, then find a trusted independent.

You’d need a separate 12v battery, or use a jumper lead from the main battery to the seats. If you can see the motor, then add positive and negative to that. Before doing this double check if the car has thermal fuses related to the seats.

See if you can find the part here. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A4/849/8

Any indication of a fault before? If both seats have stopped working, then that suggests a linked power issue. Check fuse, if that’s fine, then check the actual wiring connectors. Trouble with electric seats is you can’t move them to access the splined bolts that hold them to the floor to really see what’s going on. You can of course add separate 12v supply to the motor to move them if you were stuck. Has floor ever been wet tghat would indicate corrosion or oxidisation? Any work done recently where seats were removed? Inspect the connectors underneath for anything obvious, broken wire, etc. you could even try full 12v disconnect for 5-10 minutes to see if that physically resets them. There’s a module on both seats 8T0959760C, that controls memory function. Pretty sure it’s not this.

It’s a typical tactic, no different to webuyanycar. The auction winning bid is a bit of a fallacy, as the winning garage then start deducting anything that they would consider they would need to replace in order to resell. It’s down to you if you want to accept or refuse. You could also find that the winning garage could plug in VCDS on collection to see if any outstanding DTC codes need further investigation. At the end of the day it’s a performance car and RS genuine OE parts aren’t cheap, so they’re just covering themselves. If discs are as good as you say with small lip based on mileage, then they could be skimmed to remove the lip, and unclog the holes, as long as they are within spec. You’d have to cancel the sale though, so not sure if you’d still have administrative fee with Motorway?

I don’t know exactly how this works, so just pointing out a few of the pitfalls as I see them. Feel free to correct me if I’m wrong. Even if you’re not claiming against your own insurance, they need to be informed, or you’re in breach of contract, and insurers talk and share information. If it’s a cover thing and the terms of the policy wouldn’t pay out anyway, then that’s different. Again I suspect you’ve had that conversation already. As mentioned, avoid main Audi dealer. This is not their area of expertise. Some main dealers will have affiliated body shops, or even their own body shops to help prepare or repair cars prior to sale. They also use a host of other businesses for everything from refurbishing alloys to paintless dent removal. That said, you do get Audi approved bodyshops, ones where the franchise brand recognises the standard of workmanship and the business use OE parts, OE paint and observe certain repair processes. Details here: https://audiapprovedbodyshoprepair.co.uk/audi-approved-repairers/ For whatever reason this can’t be claimed against the insurance, then you’ll know it’s going to be expensive. On a 2025 S3 which probably retailed for around £40k, if you cut corners on the repair to reduce costs, then you’ll ultimately be hamstringed if or when you come to sell it. Without seeing the damage, it’s impossible to say how much. Even paint on a couple of doors you’re looking at a £1-2k easily. With new doors, they need to be built up, electrics, trim, even if you’re swapping over. Certain trim pieces, the bodyshop will just buy new, they won’t strip off parts and refurbish. Anyway, get a few quotes and build in a contingency budget. It’s often when work is underway you get a call because they’ve discovered something broken. Even things like alloy wheels could be bent and need replaced.

Any reason insurance is not covering? Car would need to ne scanned with VCDS to see what's triggered. If it hit kerb, then suspension front and rear, including arms could be bent. Doors straight forward, but you'll need paint, which means blending. Front spoiler and air intake will be unique to S3 so probably Audi only to source. Whichever bodyshop take it will want it on a jig to check the chassis is still true.

Coolant expansion tanks can become brittle with heat. If it’s only started over the last week, then that’s as good a place as any to start. Check the rubber tubes and clips too. If you have access to a diagnostic reader, then it wouldn’t do any harm to scan the car too. My brother has a Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0TDI and they are known to have coolant issue in the valley of the V6 engine as a coolant pipe fractures. Earlier Audi 3.0TDI engines also potentially suffer similar fate with a couple of plastic valves that succumb to heat and plastic becomes brittle. Unfortunately it’s quite a labour intensive job to fix, for relatively inexpensive parts. This video is good explanation. https://youtu.be/Vki9TDVINM0?si=qO2s3hoR7-txs6-W

You may have to buy the bullet on OE stock, as there’s still no guarantee once June arrives given the state of the world and raw materials stuck in transit. Have you tried Darkside Developments here: https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/genuine-audi-a4-a5-b9-1-4-tfsi-clutch-kit-with-release-bearing-oil-seals-and-bolts.html?

Tricky one. When the car first went into limp mode when the DPF was there, then the data would have revealed what was wrong, such as blocked filter, combination of clogged EGR valve, etc. Now that it’s removed or blanked off and remapped you’re in unknown territory as to what’s happening with the engine. Pretty sure on 2014+ cars, no DPF will invalidate insurance, etc. On 2008 car, then there’s not much physical value, other than to you, given the parts that have been invested. It’s Euro 5 too. Have you cleared DTC codes, and then driven and rescanned? The EGR valve is probably still there so that would be my first guess and it will be blocked. For injectors, check the flow rates. Suspect you’ll need to record live data to see what they are doing. With all emission related issues, empty a can of Forte diesel conditioner into the fuel tank when the low fuel light comes on and drive it hard. Replace fuel filter afterwards and top up with fresh diesel.

Have you downloaded the app to your phone? To be honest, technology these days should be easier to use and the UTR isn’t I’m afraid. The camera will record simultaneously front and rear. With the app, you can choose to review forwards or rear facing and any sensor notifications. So here’s the thing, I think mine has 8GB card, which to be honest isn’t big enough. I put in a 32GB card, it worked for a few days, then stopped working, so back to the 8GB. Try a reset on the actual front camera. Download the UTR app. In phone settings connect to Audi UTR (password: 1234567890), accept terms, etc. Surprised the main dealer didn’t take you through this, customer service and all.

Cheapest Gen 2 R8 on Autotrader is 2017 for £65k and it's a Cat S. I suppose you just need to study the market and be prepared to travel for the right car. A few are private sellers too. Goes without saying you'll need to do your own due diligence, with history and finance checks before parting with cash.

For something as specialist as an R8, speak to Ricky Elder at RE Performance. Various videos on YouTube on the horrors that can unfold on poorly maintained examples. They don't sell cars as far as I'm aware - but can point you in the right direction I'm sure based on budget.

If current gearbox is ZF Tiptronic 6-speed, then it should handle any increased power output. From stock the 3.0 TDI V6 was 240PS, although that's when it rolled off the production line. Just bear in mind, new injectors, turbo and intercooler won't be cheap, then you get into argument of investing into 18 year old car. At the end of the day - it's your money. Darkside Developments is a good call. Like all mapping, you want a rolling road to test before and after, otherwise it's hearsay on any extra torque. As far as I know S Tronic 7 speed boxes were 2010 onward. Tiptronic 8-speed was introduced 2011 on the A5.

There was a VW tech bulletin in March 2018 that relates to misting on shocks. The tech background is that it's unavoidable as it's necessary for the lubrication of the piston seal. A minor film of oil on the shock absorber pipe is normal. A leak will be clearly evident as it will extend into spring seat, accumulated debris from shock absorber oil and road dirt, etc.

Adding Forte anti-crystal won't eliminate future issues down the line, but considering you've replaced, what I assume is the tank (as heater, pump and level) are integral, then you should be safe for a few years. I really rate Forte products, so it's a few quid in the scale of things and not much of an inconvenience at AdBlue fill ups. Forte diesel fuel conditioner is good for injectors and emissions. Usually add to car at low fuel and drive hard, then replace the fuel filter afterwards.

Engine, or is it a gearbox remap only? Stage 1 engine map usually alters the power delivery curve to the car's ECU, that delivers more power, but realistically that can wear a clutch prematurely as it depends how you drive, etc. There's not one size fits all approach. Further stages usually involve physical hardware, upgrading turbo, cooling, etc. You can also get gearbox maps that alter gear changes, but then you're getting into specialist territory. You would need to know the gearbox code and maximum torque that can safely be applied. Also any business offering remaps, is not just plug and play, but are reputable, has rolling road to physically test and measure and has experience working on VAG cars. Do your own research on any potential pitfalls of a remap, given we've no idea how old the car is, existing mileage, etc. If you're replacing the clutch, then you're already looking at financial outlay even if your best friend is doing the work.

This post would be better in the Q7 forum. Admin, can you move please. Making a guesstimate, but have you scanned car, other than just the dash fault? If 2011, then suspect bi-xenon and possibly linked to range control modules which live on front and rear suspension, passenger side. The units have a pivot arm that adjusts with the suspension at rest or when loaded. Try that first. You’ll need wheels off to see it. Check the arms and wiring.

Ok, so Euro 5. Not having AdBlue is probably a bit a bit of a blessing. I’m assuming the DPF regen was aborted due to the cooling fan error. Get that fixed, clean the EGR, run some Forte through it and wait for the DPF regen, rather than forcing it. You’ll probably need to remove the bumper to access the fan. Hidden bolts under the wheel arch liner.

What's the current mileage and is this car doing short journeys at all? If you can do the work yourself, then that's half the battle. So this is one of a number off issues with Volkswagen Audi Group (VAG) diesels and Euro 6 engines, namely gummed up EGR valves, DPF and hopefully not AdBlue which is also known to fail. If you've already called a DPF specialist and they have confirmed soot levels aren't enough for DPF to regenerate, then it does point back to the EGR. If you can do the work yourself - that will certainly help. Search on LLL Parts for diagrams particular to your A6 engine code. In addition - look at videos from Dave Sterl related to P0403 fault on an A4 and O'Rileys Autos with P200200 fault, on a Q5 2.0 TDI. So what can you do? Short term you might be able to dismantle and clean the EGR valve, then run a can of Forte diesel conditioner through it on less than a quarter tank, drive it hard then replace the fuel filter. Should be done every 20k miles. I'd also run premium diesel.

I had a 15 plate daily driver Polo and it had the silica bag as it had G13 coolant. More details here. Dave Sterl is old school, but very knowledgeable. The fact you’re getting intermittent heat I’m thinking this is a motor flap issue. Get the car scanned with VCDS. If the flaps are stuck, or the motors have failed, it will show up straight away.

This my take on them (posted on another forum). https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/452313/ They are more expensive compared to equivalent petrol S4, and there's not many of the on the road. You want full history, and anything on long service intervals - then walk away.