spartacus 68

I think part number is 8W8827851E. Personally I’d avoid EBay and order something from Autodoc. Makes including Bugiad (Germany), and Stabilus which I think is OE. They are £250 per strut. You will probably have to go to relearn mode once fitted and sync them.

Normally the ‘o’ ring. The mating surface on the sump needs to be clean. I’ve seen this job done before with a vacuum without draining the oil. Lightly lube new oil sensor seal with fresh oil, and nip up bolts. Don’t quote me, but think only 10Nm.

My understanding is Audi just change the oil, however there's a mesh filter which needs cleaned. Pretty sure it will be 5 generation Haldex.

Item (18) here. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A4AR/673/8/820/820031 Genuine Audi £240, but labour, potentially 4-5 hours. It’s a fiddly job, trim to remove, etc. Depends what they find. VAG group were using silica bags as had moved to G13 coolant. System may very well need flushed, etc. Not sure who made original part, possibly Mahle?

To be fair to Halfords, it’s a pretty niche question. RS4 exhaust tips are funnily enough stainless steel, but painted. Normal wear and tear, you are going to get pitting, tar spots, etc. Tar spots are easily removed with petrol on damp microfibre. Pitting and scratches, use a very fine wire wool, #0000 with warm water and mild detergent. All you are doing is prepping. Degrease with rubbing alcohol. Next stage is to mask off and use high temperature VHT primer, followed by matte black paint.

Vibration could be anything, wheel balance, bearing, brakes. Wheel balance is as good a place to start - relatively inexpensive. Bearings usually have constant drone from 40mph up and really bad ones will have a wobble. Brakes, then sticky caliper will force contact with disc. You can usually smell. Drive for 10-15 minutes and coast to a stop. Brakes may be warm, but definitely not hot. If all that checks out, the only other thing is suspension arms. You'll normally feel a clunk over uneven road surfaces. If car has auto lights - it may be ambient light sensor. VCDS might mick this up in a scan.

Good find Adam. If that still doesn’t pop up afterwards, I’d be looking to remove the MMI from the dash for closer inspection so you can observe. If you have access to VCDS that would be worth scanning too.

Look in the boot, there's usually a build sticker, that will have engine code, 3 or 4 letters next to small print that says 'engine code'. Usually sits under the total KW capacity of engine. LY9C is Ibis White.

Reboot here. https://youtu.be/hvxQfG812wY That said, if it was previously making a noise, suspect broken nylon cog on the motor or such like. Trouble with these infotainment screens, is the dash is under constant heat in summer, so any grease will dry out. Search YouTube. Couple of videos they’re accessing screen by removing air vents and accessing screws. You’ll need plastic anti-marr trim tools.

Have you checked the fuse? Pretty sure you can manually over-ride. The hydraulic fluid reservoir will be in boot, etc. https://youtu.be/XQsxjGBmEeg?is=upf2_ZM2pLvaf6FR

On sites, have used Euro Car Parts and basically collected. Autodoc is good, however will take at least a couple of weeks to arrive. Avoid buying direct from Germany. I used to use Hubauer Shop for genuine BMW kit, however they don’t add tax, so you pay Royal Mail to release. That’s Brexit for you.

Have used Febi before, top mount for wife’s BMW i3, VW brake shields, that sort of thing. A 3.0 TDI is a different kettle of fish though. I have an A4 Allroad with 3.0 TDI, so know it’s heavy. Pretty sure the front and rear (front suspension) lower arms are hydra bushes, so basically fluid filled. Lemforder as you say is OE. Only other thing I’d consider is Meyle HD as comes with 4 year warranty. I broke a rear spring on my car and fitted Lesjöfors after cross checking part numbers. Car is jittery as anything, so that’s all coming back out and I’m fitting genuine Audi. With suspension, don’t cut corners. Not saying Febi is bad, but those arms will last fraction of OE Lemforder arm, plus you’ll have labour again to swap out.

Restrict use of the car until Monday and get OEM part from Audi, otherwise you’ll brick your ABS system is my advice.

Have had all three. Projector halogen in B5 A4 2.5TDI Quattro, no headlight washers. Bi-xenon in B8 A4 Allroad with headlight washers and LED rear, and now B9 A4 Allroad with LED front and rear, that ironically has headlight washers (in bumper) but was never fitted from factory. I’m planning to retrofit. Halogen and xenon generate heat, LED doesn’t, hence requirement for washers. Suspect the headlight washer bumper flap is for those that request it as extra or LED Matrix which I think is available on top of range Vorsprung. Upgrading lights is never straight forward. Minimum is you will need VCDS for coding, and parts need to be new as usually have security protection.

Do you have to use their app? My wife has a BMW i3 that has onboard computer that can delay charging. We recently switched electricity providers (don’t ask me who) as we have solar and battery storage. The 7kWh wall charger is currently out of action until an electrician tests the cable. It’s been on from 2018 but I suspect it needs a new tethered cable as works intermittently. In the meantime she can use 13A granny charger or a public charger. Cheap tariff is midnight to 6.00am. The new electricity provider wants us to use their custom app. However the car has its own software to delay charging, so we use that. It’s also intelligent enough to start charging earlier if need be as 13A will take longer compared to 7kWh. Granted, some of this power is outwith low tariff but that’s fine as we have battery storage. My point is, does Audi have this interface, rather than use the app which has to work across multiple car platforms?

I didn't realise the charges involved, unfortunately it's a bit of a minefield if you go down the import route. You mention worrying about the car's depreciation if you opt for this car which is currently on 82k miles. Even if you stay within a modest 4k miles per year, then you're going to get to around 100k miles in 4½ years, but by then the car will be over 23 years old. At the end of the day - you're over-thinking this. You're buying a performance car, and it will require servicing and spare parts while you own it, plus insurance, road tax, etc. It is what it is. I don't think you can realistically guarantee a future value, short of sealing it in an air conditioned garage on axle stands. If you were thinking of a physical investment, you could potentially go down the B5 RS4 Avant route. That said - there's a mint example on Autotrader under 20k miles finished in Avus Silver. That's never going to be realistically driven and will probably spend the rest of it's life trailered to car shows, plus it's £70k. Best of luck of luck though whatever you do.

B7 RS4s are indeed sought after, but here’s the rub. There are some beautiful examples out there, but there’s also some high milers, and that’s reflected in the price. They also need to be driven, but I appreciate it would be a summer car, rather than daily driver. €50k is roughly £42k GBP. That’s top money, and I’m not convinced this car, although desirable necessarily falls into that camp. Again, just my opinion. Few reasons, I think the Avant is generally more sought after, especially when it comes to resale. In addition, colour is everything. Sprint blue is attractive as a factory colour, but Audi also made the RS4 in Imola Yellow, which is very rare under their Audi exclusive scheme which would have been a custom colour. It’s not everyone’s cup of tea, but it has provenance having been used on the B5 RS4 Avant a few years earlier. History is everything too. To command a top selling price it needs documented history from new, all keys, and any remedial work such as a recommission if it’s been in storage, so basically it’s turn key and go. My advice for what it’s worth is to potentially travel and set up a few appointments. At the end of the day these are getting to be old cars, so pictures can be deceptive. What are undersides like, any corrosion? Also, do some research on parts availability.

No, not used it personally. According to LLL parts, it is a subframe bolt (item 4) in this diagram). However I see its used on suspension bolt too across VAG range. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/n90924103/bolt-hex-hd-with-pin-combi-n90924103 Anyway back to your dilemma. Have you tried https://spareto.com/products/volkswagen-ag-bolt/n90956803 Based in Estonia I think. Doesn't say they are out of stock so ypu might be in luck. Be aware you'll probably pay tax at post office, thanks to Brexit. Dealt with the same ordering BMW parts via Hubauer Shop (Germany).

Is that torque to yield though Gareth? TTY fasteners are designed to stretch once torqued to final specification, whereas high tensile bolts can theoretically be reused. I know the frustration of searching for a part number and going down every route to source, but if the same characteristics of the bolt was used, I don’t foresee an issue. Your idea to add a nut is good, simply to clean the thread on removing once cut, then dispose.

So the key information for this part is its M12 x 1.5 pitch x 120mm. Tough times call for tough measures. Could N90924103 be used instead? As far as I can see the only difference is it’s 130mm. It’s a subframe bolt, so will be torque to yield and have the strength characterises of the original bolt. Remove 10mm off end, clean thread, etc.

If anyone with VCDS close to you, then that would be the next logical step. A Yuasa 9000 AGM is a decent battery, but for all you know there’s a parasitic drain, who knows. Any remedial work since then, such as dash-cam install? They should last minimum of 5 years. Bear in mind, visiting a main dealer to diagnose will be the same as renewing the battery. You can test battery with cheap multimeter. Should be around 12.4-12.6v with car not started, and running over 14v when alternator kicks in.

I doubt you will just find the bulb holder on its own, but just replace the rear light. Suspect original was made by Valeo or Hella. Get part number off the original. Now EBay will be full of dodgy parts, so look for genuine Audi OEM, not some LED retrofit made in China. With the part number you can search for the part.

Be interesting to know what the smoke test limit is for your car is. CO2 levels from new on diesel ultra ranged from 99-109 CO2g/km. I know the MOT smoke tests soot opacity only. Not mechanically related - but if for any reason car fails MOT and it's linked back to AdBlue delete, then you risk your insurance being invalidated. Insurers share this information for future. Also, when and if the car is sold, I'm assuming new owner will need to be told?

Check out LLL parts - that will tell you if part is available separately.

Publish your clip to YouTube then link it back here. Loud turbo, not sure. Granted, it will kick in around 1,500 rpm, but if it was noisy such as over-boost, I’d expect it to go into limp mode. If car is scanned with VCDS that should rule that out. Brakes, sticky caliper can make a noise, but disc would heat up and you’d smell burning. Stone behind disc and brake shield? Discs heating up then you’ll see heat spots. To rule out, drive for 10-15 minutes and coast to a stop. Discs should be warm, but definitely not hot. When auxilliary serpentine drive belt was changed, no issues with job, no bearings on way out? No loss of coolant or other indicators?