spartacus 68

On multi-link suspension, start with the cheap stuff first and then progress. The lower arms are likely hydrabushes, so they leak when they fail. I changed mine at 65k on a 17 plate A4 Allroad. Lemforder is OE specification. Also check the ARB bushes on the sway bar. Next the ARB link, then finally the top arms. Top arms when they go, will knock. They are usually visible if you hold and 10-2 position and try lateral movement. The only thing left is the top mounts and the bump stops on the suspension shock. If you're changing anything, then always do both sides. Lemforder and Meyle HD, that's all I'd fit. Given the state of our roads - also look at the coil springs too. you can drop an inch and not even know about it. Not sure with A5, but on A4 Avant, the rear spring seat/bush corrodes from inside out, so although cheap from Audi, you're looking at labour to fit unless you're spanner handy. I did it myself so as not to disturb eccentric bolt. If I was doing it again, I would just mark then remove that bolt. This is complicated further if its quattro drive. Car will need alignment check afterwards.

Yes and no. RS and S models bought from new and maintained as per manufacturing guidelines will still be excellent examples if serviced properly. The trouble is, as these cars have changed hands to new owners over the years, some of whom have potentially bought them on tight budget drawn by their performance, the servicing may have slipped and corners have been cut. Some will have had performance upgrades, aftermarket parts fitted, or been used for track days, etc. It’s a minefield, which is why it’s critical to have history. In addition, chain stretch, camshaft sprocket wear, premature rocker needle bearing wear and carbon build up are real issues that surface, primarily because of the tolerance these cars are built too, but also because VAG group have been steadily economising in the face of competition from other manufacturers to save costs. I’m sure regular oil changes will keep a lot of these issues in check, but it’s best to be aware. These are performance cars, so I think you need to be practical regards it being a daily runner based on its intended use. At the end of the day, if you have the budget, go for it. Ultimately this is a forum. We only offer insights, to avoid potential issues issues down the line based on our own experiences.

No idea on warranty, but I’d like to think so. If you’re spanner handy, these jobs are not difficult. Water reservoir normally accessed by removing road wheel, then inner wheel arch liner. Normally a series of Torx screws and a couple of 10mm hex nylon nuts. If the reservoir has a crack, replace. Pump usually attaches with 12v supply, with rubber pipes. It could be leaking at a pipe attachment. Main Audi dealer is £200 an hour, not including parts. This is bread and butter work for an independent garage you trust.

Getting a car to operating temperature is important for a number of reasons. Efficient fuel combustion in petrol (helps reduce carbon on intake valves and sparks), oil pressure and viscosity to lubricate engine components as oil heats up, battery health as alternator recharging battery. B9 battery health comes up a lot on the forum, and cars very susceptible to electronic issues if battery on the way out. New AGM battery probably £250-300 or so and needs coded to the car. Short runs can potentially lead to water vapour as it’s not evaporating in engine and turns to sludge. Regular oil changes can help combat this. Battery drain, as alternator hasn’t fully recharged battery. Engine heat can help burn off carbon to a degree, but the car will always generate carbon. I’d recommend at least 30 mins to an hour on a motorway or A class road once a week to help. Short runs over time are going to introduce issues. As Stevey has suggested, check out VAG Technic YouTube. Few horror shows on poorly maintained engines, primarily S4, but also S5. I particularly remember this one. https://youtu.be/y-d0ymYi09o?si=0YcncBnJxZvYvh2A There’s also an issue with rockers on some of these cars with needle bearings that disintegrate, as Audi subsequently revised the part. Regular oil changes can help.

Part is called turn signal indicator. Right hand side is 4G5949102B. Double check that with main dealer based on your registration. Think it should be around £45. Avoid Temu or EBay. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A6/798/9/949/949000 To access, normally pop out glass, see if any screws, then prize mirror cap off, again using the trim tools, as usually clipped in. Unscrew the existing module, until electrics, and fit by reverse. Can be more complicated if lane assist or camera fitted. This is 2015 A6, so should be roughly the same. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hqps2U43fzI

I don't presume to know what you're looking for Alex, but buying an S5 will likely have a decent specification on even a base model, minus things such as sound package or panoramic sunroof. Incidentally, LED matrix isn't gimmicky lighting. Far from it, this will have been a very expensive extra from new, over and above standard LED lights with features such as full beam assist, cornering lighting, etc. This type of specification helps sell it down the line unless you're planning for this car to be a long term keeper. You asked if S5s are typical for lack of servicing. No, not necessarily, but its a 2017 plate, so a 9 year old performance car, so it pays to do your research. The original owner may have sold it, and it could have traded hands a few times or been run ragged on a track or indeed modified. Without some sort of service log, then you've absolutely no idea what the history is. In terms of history, especially on an older vehicle such as this, then if its been maintained meticulously, even by the main dealer on a database, they can give you a print out. If the previous owner(s) were old school, then a physical service record is better. Doesn't need to be garage stamps, but receipts in a folder from a VAT registered garage, or simply parts purchased, and service mileage, in some sort of chronological order. That speaks volumes. I've had quattros for years, so I understand tyre wear. Normally you replace tyres in pairs on the same axle. There's no dark science to it. A car failing on tyres tells you the owner isn't aware of condition, wear pattern or tread depth.

Wouldn't go as far as to call Evans Halshaw a dealer, they are a reseller at best, and 37k miles on a 2017 car is very low. That sounds like a careful owner, however where's the information to back it up? £23k isn't small change either. Quick check of the MOT history - so either tyres or coil springs that it's failed on. Sounds odd to fail on tyres - so that's a potential red flag for me. Regardless of mileage this should have had oil changes probably every 5-8k miles. Personally I'd walk away. I'd rather higher mileage and history (doesn't need to be main dealer), but you want receipts and lots of them. People who look after their cars tend to document any work done. Why? This is a cam-chain driven car, if it's been on long service intervals, then you could get potential chain slap on start up, then it's an engine out job to replace, plus guides. Tiptronic transmission is bullet-proof, but I'd still look to do a transmission oil change on or around 8 years or 60-80k miles so that's due too. ZF-8 make a specific kit. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202604261891333? This is a 2018 car on 54k, but full loaded, panoramic, red leather, LED matrix, and yes more expensive at £27k. Unfortunately there's no short-cuts with these cars. This one has full history. Goes without saying I'd be running an independent check with car vertical or such like, full scan with VCDS, etc.

Not aware of any Audi that runs on mismatched or staggered tyre sizes. My wife runs a BMW i3 REx and it does have slightly wider rear tyres, but that’s from factory. Only explanation, as it is odd, is the previous owner ordered tyres online with fitting and mistakenly used wrong size. Pretty sure 18” wheels are standard on C7 model. Refer to sticker on driver’s door shut for the tyres that are compatible. Regards Quattro, yes you can overwind the rear diff with the wrong tyres.

We don’t know your driving history to date, but £400 a month on insurance is insane, considering cost of fuel and running costs as it is. Unfortunately males under 25 are deemed high risk, and of course the area where car is left overnight and your job will also have impact. Use some of the insurance comparison sites, on a standard 1 litre car for example and see what comes back price wise. You can also add telemetric box, which means you need to drive within speed limit at all times and even when you drive. Additional advanced driving qualification may help, but ultimately you need to be over 25 with no claims to start bringing it down.

Vacuum leak, wiring issue, restricted airflow or the MAF sensor itself. Difficult to say. If it were me, I’d scan with VCDS and go from there. If you’re replacing the MAF sensor, it needs to be OE. Pattern parts usually doesn’t resolve, or issue returns. If there’s been a performance air box on the car, not sure if anyone still uses oiled K&N filters these days, then yes, replace the MAF sensor.

On subject of transmission, on 2.0 TDI on C6 will be either manual 6 speed or multitronic CVT auto. Needs gear box fluid and filter every 40k. Manual 6 speed treat to gear oil change at 100k.

You want a year's MOT on any of these cars. If buying privately, do your research. You can pull previous MOT history via government check. Also speak to owner. Genuine owner will have paperwork and lots of it, plus history. For these sort of vehicles, keep your search area tight. No point travelling for 'immaculate example' only to be disappointed. Always drive a car from cold, and cross reference vehicle VIN on inspection. For a car you're prepared to buy, and given we live in a world where we're surrounded by scammers, then pay for a vehicle report such as carvertical. RAC offer something similar, but less detailed. If you have VCDS, definately scan the car. Diesels on the whole are robust. At this age, its Euro5 technology. Regular oil changes are key to engine longevity. Anything on long service intervals 15-18k intervals, walk away. All 2.0 TDI engines will be belt driven, so again, when was toothed belt done? My advice is 60k miles or every 5 years plus waterpump. If any cars have panoramics, then check carpets, and headlining for water leaks. Test all electrics, central locking, etc. Sat Nav likely out of date, but it is what it is. Scuffed wheel rims, someone can't drive. Alignment will be out and I'll bet it pulls to the kerb. Check coil spring height. Easy test with your hand on level ground from tyre to arch.

Main Audi dealer will be minimum £200 per hour for a technician, not a mechanic. As suggested, find a trusted independent and expect to pay for health report. A 16 year old car, if serviced properly can still be kept on the road, however, except you'll need to budget for some of the repairs. You don't need to do everything at once. What's critical? And what's worth doing, say in 6 months.

Should be good for 80-100k miles if not longer. Doubt Audi had your thoughts on access when they built the engine! Just watched a video on I think it was Kia or Hyundai rear break pads, to access rear carrier, one of the rear arms and the shock absorber needs to be removed to access the bolt, I mean, what the actual? Regards harness, search Charles Trent. I’d be very sceptical of anything from breakeryard.com

Heavy duty as name suggests will handle weight better. Are you towing for example, are you planning to carry heavy weights? Sport is stiffer than standard when negotiating bends, less body roll. It might even have an uprated rear ARB. Call me old school, I’d probably keep it original on sports, and keep rubber bushes too instead of going down poly bush route. Regards getting clearance to use breaker bar. Get a decent trolley jack such as 2.5 tonne low profile one. Costco usually have ones at reasonable price and quality is good. Also invest in deep slot jack pads to protect the sills. Once you’re comfortable with height on one side, get an axle stand in. Then do the other side. Now return to the side you’re working on, you can still afford to go up a little in height, as long as axle stand extends. Front wheels must be securely chocked. Same with other side. Throw in another trolley jack and the road wheels for good measure. You’ll find this should give you the right height, to break the tension. As suggested, I’ve even used a small Halfords 1.5-tonne trolley jack to lift the breaker bar if space is tight. Socket needs to be hammered on, and no lateral flex on the breaker bar.

First thing to do, since car is new to you is determine age of battery. If battery is old, say 5 years+, then replace it. If no paperwork, do some digging. Not sure on 2006 model if it needs coded to the car if you replace with VCDS? Most batteries these days are AGM. Fit based in same cold cranking amps. Again on batteries, there may be a date stamp on the terminals, or printed with serial number, etc. You can get a cheap multimeter and charge the existing battery on trickle charge to do some tests. For arguments sake, say 12.4-12.6v from cold. Once running, the alternator should bring it up to around 14.4-14.7v. I’ve never heard of a defective ECU causing battery drain. That said, if the ECU has been subject to water damage as it normally lives under the windscreen cowl, then anything is possible. Car sirens have inbuilt lithium back up battery. They eventually fail. Search YouTube for fixes. I’d also be looking at aftermarket electrical work, sub woofers, stereo, aftermarket lights, any additional security, etc. If you or a friend has VCDS, run a scan. That might not tell you the source, but could point you to a potential culprit, as existing DTC errors are logged. Any come back regards how you bought the car? You have some protection within first 30 days, unless private sale. If you trust garage in their diagnosis, search out a business that can replace the ECU and recode. There are businesses such as Autotronics that do this type of work. Never done it myself, but worth investigating.

Heat, PlusGas, and an air hammer (with compressor) if your budget can stretch. For caliper bolts, access to use an extension bar is by far the best solution to get leverage. On the fronts they are probably 18mm bolts, and the rear, I think 8mm Allen hex bolts. Invariably corroded. Wire brush first. Then hammer in Allen bit on a 1/2” drive. That’s where I would use the air hammer first to shock it, then the breaker bar. I’ve even used another car jack to raise the extension bar given vehicle is on the ground, apart from being jacked up. On older cars, especially suspension, then you’re going to come across seized bolts. If any of the parts are aluminium, then you’ll get oxide corrosion on steel bolt threads. That’s why the infamous pinch bolt on the front strut on VAG cars was such a pain. Of course they make one-trick ponies such as the Klann tool, but you can also get opposite end and use Laser which can be as effective. Meyle suspension components are good. Normally 2 year warranty. Meyle HD (heavy duty) is 4 years. Lemforder is OE. If you’re looking for spring set ups, as Audi, in fact VAG would have multiple combinations, check out LLL parts to get a part number, to see if heavy duty ones can still be sourced. Existing springs will be colour coded with paint dots. Not sure if your 2002 A6 is Quattro, but details here on heavy duty springs. Cross reference with engine code. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A6Q/264/5/511/511016 Front wheel drive version here for 4/6 cylinder cars. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A6/264/5/511/511012

Didn't even know there was such a thing as a G-Tron. Can I ask is this a UK based car? Like all new technologies, that comes with its own issues, such as knowledgeable technical support, main dealer only (that comes at a price), and with Audi that doesn't always equate to quality. Anyway, enough of my ramblings. B9 Matrix, great headlights. Never experienced them personally when driving. But have long been an advocate of decent headlights. Bring back Bi-xenon headlights! Appearance is normally a series of cubed sections on the headlight. Once you've seen one, you know what to search for. I think you need to be stricter on your car searches. As soon as say the extras you're looking for, such as panoramic, a particular colour, virtual dash, then the seller knows you're particular. Matrix LED will be an expensive extra or fitted as standard on Vorsprung editions. Cornering lights. No idea if that's included in the technology. I would assume high beam assist is one of the main advantages. Anyway, good luck on your search.

Glow plug 4 is cylinder 4, so typically furthest from timing belt on 2.0TDI. Personally, I’d be changing them all. Think OE is Beru and uses either deep 8mm or 10mm socket. Spray penetrating release such as PlusGas on all plug seats a few days prior to work and only once car to operating temperature. Use 3/8” or 1/4” ratchet, and don’t over-leverage. If it snaps you’re in a world of pain. Use smear of ceramic grease on new threads. Ensure the cylinder bore is spotless, you might need a vacuum cleaner to suck up any debris first, then microfibre rag on a flat head after removing plug. If not confident, leave it to a garage.

Hi Steve, 2016 A4 is B9 platform, not B5. Admin can you please move. Any indication of history of this, mileage? Could be anything, but if it’s been checked out, then assuming garage checked ARB links, front coil springs, upper and lower arms. Upper arms can be tested in situ. Raise car and hold road wheel at 12 and 6 o’clock. Watch the strut where the arms and rubber bushes join for any movement there. Lower bushes (are hydra bushes), can only tell with pry bar. Lemforder are OE. ARB bushes are relatively inexpensive. Meyle HD or Lemforder. Replace in pairs. Early B9 A4s (prior to 2017) suffered chassis creak or knock. More details here as there was a TPI issued. https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a4-b9-platform-discussion-212/creaking-noise-due-faulty-body-panel-lemon-2952951/page9/

I personally like to remove brake carriers, if nothing else, to run a smear of ceramic grease on bolt threads. It’s also easier to wire brush and file any corrosion. That broken bolt will probably have to be drilled out. With that sort of corrosion, usually induction heater, plenty of penetrating release.

No, that’s not normal. So basically 19k miles from Feb 2021 to April 2026. You want complete transparency from seller. If car was in storage, then I’d be looking for receipts. Even if car was doing 4k a year, then I’d still oil change annually.

I’m not planning on selling the A4 anytime soon, it took ages to find, panoramic, electric towbar, virtual dash, etc. Servicing is key, but we’ll see how tax regimes in the future work, as often it’s just too expensive. Brother used to have 3.0TDI X5, but road tax was getting daft, plus it used to eat tyres.

If you mean why my last diesel - that's easy. Right now I'm on a B9 3.0 TDI Allroad on Euro 6. Beautiful car to drive, 600Nm of torque and importantly you can still service them yourself if you choose to do so. If you look at what VW are doing - they have removed ErWin service recently so dealer only, plus on Golf 8 platform for example, you can't even change out rear pads without ODIS dealer level software. Besides, diesels are paying heavy price. AdBlue satisfies NOx emissions, but they have high failure rate as it's integral unit, as contains heater, level and pump. Euro 5 technology was more robust.

I don't know what you mean, you'll need to elaborate please.