cliffcoggin

A common problem with Audis of that era is damage to the wires within the rubber bellows between door and frame. It is worth checking all doors and the boot lid.

The ability of a battery to crank and fire the engine is not evidence that it is in good shape. That was true years ago in the days of points in distributors, but not since the advent of sensitive electronics. I suggest you get the battery properly tested (not by a multimeter). I'd go further and say that if it is more than five years old you should renew it irrespective of the test results. Don't forget to get the new battery coded to the car.

My guess is that one of the locks has not operated fully. To be sure you should get the car scanned on a decent code reader.

Was the reply of any help to you Steve, or did I waste my time writing it?

Ask Audi. If the car has been serviced at any Audi dealer the service record will be available to all Audi dealers.

Allesandro.
Fracture of the wiring in the rubber bellows between door and frame is a common problem. I suggest you forget about sensors until you have proved the wiring is intact.

I don't know if it is a mild hybrid, but if it is I would not touch it with a barge pole. See other parts of these forums to understand why. There have been many problems with that drive train and its BSG, and much frustration at the lack of a general recall by Audi, let alone an admission of responsibility by Audi.

Comfort and road holding are conflicting parameters when comes to tyre & wheel choice. High profile tyres on small wheels will generally give a more comfortable ride, but reduced road holding in corners.
Again I stress that the two cars may have different spring and damper rates. Changing the tyre/wheel combination without ensuring they suit the suspension could lead to dashed expectations.

Have you seen this topic:
https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/30800-creaking-sound-coming-from-front-end-urgent-help/
 

Get the battery professionally tested as a starting point. Your symptoms are typical of a dying battery so that needs to proven or eliminated before getting the car scanned for faults.

The dealer's feeble excuse sounds suspicious to my cynical way of thinking. Nevertheless if the problem has been solved rather than concealed it's a good outcome.

Quite possibly. If the car had adjusted itself to charge a low capacity battery then it seems to me that it will not charge a high capacity battery adequately. That's a bit speculative so I suggest you get some certainty at a dealer (Audi or independant) that can advise and code.

Yes, it's true the battery/car will need coding, however it isn't only VCDS that can do the job. Others can as well, though I don't know specifically which ones.

I'd agree with Gareth that the fault is probably in a low quality after market cylinder rather than a missing or damaged component.

An internet search for Smith and Allen Ltd. worked for me. Have you tried?

Very risky without a service history. Walk away from the deal.

Were the comments above of any use to you Tony?

The fans should only run when the temperature is high. I believe there is a module that controls the fans which you may need to renew, but I do not know the details, so a first step would be to get it tested.

Daren.
You seem to have covered the obvious causes of low oil pressure. I think it is significant that the low pressure only happens after hard acceleration when the oil would get hotter than normal, so I wonder if there is a restriction in the oil cooler, assuming you have one.

All I hear Hamza is tyre noise. I hear nothing unusual, which is a common problem when recordings are played back. You have become mentally attuned to the sound your car makes.
Note that some tyres are much noisier than others, and affected more by the road surface. What happens if you refit the winter tyres and drive along the same stretch of road? Does the noise change or disappear?

Mansour.
Have you come to a decision on this? Were the responses of any help?

New battery needed. Don't forget to get it coded to the car.

Robert.
I believe the car will warn you when Adblue needs to be topped up.
Do look through this forum's history for knowledge of the potential Adblue problems you may face in the future, and how to resolve them. You may get the impression there that Adblue is a disaster waiting to happen, and indeed it can be if left to its own devices, but with the right care it can be a trouble-free system.

Tony.
Look through recent forum history. I recall seeing a few weeks a post about something similar. I believe it was a limiter for seat travel adjustment.

Colin.
Those are classic signs of a defective battery. When you buy a new one ensure you get it coded to the car else you will get even more problems.