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it just started working again after a couple of weeks .. but who knows this time !! xx

Yes, sounds like cabling/loose connection - good luck!

Hi - I have recent acquired a 2008 A6 (C6)avant sline and I am experiencing rattle from the front brakes driving over rough road surfaces. I note the car has recently had new discs and pads and only 10% worn. I have renewed the caliper springs on both sides and this has largely improved the problem but annoyingly there still some rattle from both sides. Being a sline with harder suspension is this a common problem on these cars on our bad roads. Further my local garage has inspected the suspension and can only find that anti-roll bushes may required to be replaced in the distance future, and could only be an advisory on the MOT, but offer no more advice. Anybody had the same problem and solved it?

Exactly, I was shocked when I found out. Definitely worth looking for speaker adapter kits first.

You're welcome and yes.

Hi I'm thinking of buying my first Audi what do you think of the Audi A7 55tfsi c8 2018? It's has full Audi history on 34000 miles. Just wondering it there are any major issues with this car. Thanks for any advice in advance

Could it be an issue with the injector seals or flow plugs?

I tried Bosch Aero Twins as they were the recommended result at another retailer for my reg and they didn't fit either.

I have to make you aware of the legalities of it as a staff member. I fully understand why you went down the remap route. This is the thing, regardless of how old audits become the servicing is always expensive.

a part 2 to come as got to change the usb and heat shrink came today youtube video

Could be leaky injectors. Not suggesting you replace the injectors. You could pull them, clean and replace the copper seating washers. Not sure if there’s an ‘o’ ring on the main mode of the injector too? If you do pull them, replace the bolts, they are stretch bolts and torque to yield, once only. Use a little ceramic grease on refitting. If an injector was damaged, I’d expect a further error code. Any new injector needs to be coded to the car. P0420 error likely to be inefficient catalytic convertor. Not sure any of the off the shelf products work. If it were me, you could try Forté products, including injection cleaners. Another option is to access primary oxygen sensor to inspect the cat itself. A lot of work, yes, but only way to confirm visual inspection with endoscope camera (with light) that works with your phone, just to be sure it’s not broken up. Bear in mind this was a crash damaged car.

Don’t skimp on budget is my advice. I understand you’re looking at B&O, but that needs to dovetail with car model, engine and gearbox and even colour. B&O was expensive feature, so it’s not likely to be found on poverty spec car. If you find B&O, then it’s bound to have leather, folding mirrors, possibly virtual cockpit would be my experience. Retrofitting anything is expensive, and usually you need VCDS to remove codes, even if plug and play. I know this is on an Allroad brochure (2017), but it elaborates on the comfort and sound packs. https://autocatalogarchive.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/Audi-A4-Allroad-2017-UK.pdf Trim level aside, you want history and lots of it. On cars that have been on long service intervals, personally I’d give them a wide berth. No oil should be in the car for 18k miles. Be prepared to travel too, once you’ve done your due diligence checks. Additional checks such as Car Vertical which you pay for are useful.

VCDS Hex2, absolutely no question. You can source from Gendan. You get OBD cable and lifetime updates. 3 VIN licence will cover your car, plus whatever you source in the future. Works across VAG range of cars. On air suspension, if you’re fitting yourself, you might even need specific feature to ‘relearn system’ after installation, similar to panoramic sunroof synchronisation or one touch windows. On VW Golf 8 for example, you can’t even swap out rear pads without access to ODIS which is dealer level software, so you can see the way things are going.

So two weeks in and i am loving my A4. But I want to add my own touches too it. So I want to add an SLine badge to the front grill. Looking through Ebay etc there are so many to choose from. Does anyone know the correct one for the B9.5 with the Hex Grill.

I'd recommend you speak to your local Audi dealer who will be able to tell you what outstanding recalls you have.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 looks lovely 👍

Hi, Hi have audi a3 2014 2.0tdi sline. It suffers with a starting fault. (Intermittent) car turns but sticks then after 2 or 3 turns it starts. Drives fine. I'm having error codes p223700 and p031400. The camshaft position sensor has been changed the belts etc have all been changed. Oxygen sensor has been changed. My fuel flap doesn't lock. I'm thinking I may have an electrical issue. As stated the car maybe fine for a month or two. If I adjust the heaters that work fine it's like it can make the fault happen. Any suggestions ? Thanks in advance

Yeah, mechanic replaced power steering column with a used one (costed around ~300 euros all in), haven't seen this issue once ever since.

Bought new sensor from audi and tried to replace it myself. I was able to release the wiring clip but not able to release the clips at either side. Any advice?

Hi everyone, I'm currently a happy owner of an A4 but giving serious consideration to a petrol Q3 Sportback, not sure whether to go for front wheel or quattro drivetrain. Any tips here would be helpful thanks. More importantly, is there anything you discovered after you got your Q3 that you wish you'd known beforehand? Thanks in advance.

Thanks gents for your replies, i’m still investigating the problem, once i have the solution i will put it here although feel free to continue with any advice cheers Dave

On mine it feels like I'm running low on fuel and the engine is stuttering. The RPMs also judder slightly. As soon as I start accelerating, even lightly, it's gone. In my experience a good way to manifest my problem is by cruising at low speeds (30-50km/h) and just barely feather the accelerator in a lower gear - e.g. 3-4th. No acceleration, just cruising at a consistent speed. I can also let go completely and very lightly press again and it might start doing it. Same happens at higher speeds, but due to the high gear, it's less noticeable. It's worth mentioning that it's not happening every time. Like I previously wrote, it's a bit hit & miss. I have the feeling that it's happening the most when the engine is still not up to temp. I hope this helps.

I have never had any problems took car out dropped roof electric, all fine went diy store roof still down locked door by key later wen home went to put roof up not happening all solenoid sounds working light on panel flashing then the boot won’t open by key or fob but once again all solenoids clicking working. any help please .ps can I open storage manually. Regards .

Thanks for the tips Gareth - I'll take a look. Here are some more photos of the blower Dave, let me know if any other angles would help. Unfortunately I think the one you found wouldn't fit - if you can see it has the electrical connection in the middle of the fan, whereas on my one the socket is off to the side.

Your best bet is to get a complete Bose set up from a donor. You'll need the sub too. I thought it was under the passenger seat. But you've also looked in the boot too. Should definitely be in one of those locations I think