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Just been on a short run, second still not changing to 3rd untill 2000+ but not experienced the pulsating in 4th. I'm currently on the "auto" setting. Going out soon will try the efficiency modem

Thanks Tavi - this worked for me.

Dan. How about a longer description of the problem, and what you have tried to do about it. The extra words don't cost anything.

You're welcome, please keep us posted on how you get on 🙂

A6

Unfortunately there is no simple solution to changing from one radio brand to another. Functions are different, plugs/sockets are different, wire colours are different, so there is always some wire cutting to do. To make matters worse, some Ebay sellers are not very helpful in supplying the right conversion wiring.

Please keep us posted on how you get on

Keep us updated Gustaf. Does anyone know if the brake calipers are the same on all models? I've got a 2015 BiTdi Allroad so trying to identify the correct parts for it. Thanks

So as I thought no screws in the slide out panels or under the triangle, just a load of push in clips that need a bit of gentle persuasion. I used a trim tool bought in readiness, Wetado 8 piece £9 on Amazon, to get the right hand side off first then just gently work all the clips out. The light and boot switch have a small push down clip to disconnect the wiring plug. The adapter for the wiper washer, picture attached is blocked

Hello Stephen, Yes, best to avoid Halfords if you have respect for your wallet - also main dealers. Of possible help:- I now avoid Varta/Bosch due to recent dissatisfactions. I currently favour Exide ( their Premium grade for those without stop/start. Have a look at Tayna Batteries website and tap in your registration number, and that should point you to the correct battery - beware, Tayna will likely to point you towards their own brand ( sorry cannot recall the brand name at the moment) but I would simply stick with Exide. Also have a look at Parts in Motion website - they now do Exide. For both these companies, look on EBay before committing since they are generally listed as free shipping on there. Double check your current battery spec. for Ah and CCA figures and ensure the recommended replacement meets/exceeds these figure. Also check dimensions, but do not ( in caps)use a metal tape for fear of touching terminals! New battery will need coding. Regards, Gareth.

This thread will now be deleted.

Hi, do you have any parts left?

Hi, It's almost impossible to hear it when driving, I only really hear it when the car is ticking over, so I'm not sure. It only seems to start about 20 or 30 seconds after I start the car as well, not as soon as the engine starts.

Ideally scan the car with VCDS to see if it identifies the module that’s not communicating. There’s a Bluetooth module, but I’m guessing. An auto electrician is probable a safe bet with access to diagnostics. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/RS4C/605/0/035/35010 Not sure if this unit is under passenger side seat or in boot given cabriolet could be a different set up given potential for the interior to get a soaking.

Ethan. Your frequent refilling and short journey make me confidant there has been no damage. No guarantees of course, but I would not be concerned if it was my car.

Fair enough. I can't help sourcing another engine, but I would be wary of a secondhand unit unless it is supplied with a cast iron guarantee. You and your mechanic have probably considered whether repair of the existing engine is feasible. Rattles and misfires could be anything from timing belt to crankshaft position sensor, while low compression on one cylinder could be just a sticking valve. Any of those would be a lot cheaper than another engine. Having metal shavings in the fuel is odd. Rust or grit I could understand, but not shavings. Any idea how that happened?

Thanks Ian, You now need to start testing for voltages and good earths using your multimeter. Regards, Gareth.

Cliff Many thanks for the information, I will have a look to see if this can be disabled. It does not really cause any trouble; I was a bit worried when I first saw the error but I now know that the car will charge with no issue. The MyAudi app for the Q4 is not as good as the app for my previous car A3 8Y, at least I could lock the car if I was away from the vehicle not available in the Q4 version.

Thanks for the update Tony. Note that the job is not trivial so it would be worth renewing the water pump at the same time while the engine is apart. The pump life is similar to the belt and requires the same effort for access, hence the recommendation to do both at once. We have noted before problems with forum access when done through Google. I don't know the details or whether a solution was found.

Yes the squeal is most likely to be the release bearing. Adding that to the high bite point confirms that the clutch is defective and needs to be renewed. Others here may be able to recommend a source for a new clutch.

Was the reply of any help Gerry?

I definitely think you need to be asking the importer to contact VW Japan as they clearly can communicate in the language. If you owned it less than 30 days you can return it for a full refund

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 It's definitely not an old man car. Regarding forums you'll find most of them will show the horror stories, as people don't come onto them when everything is working and good.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

Hi guys I know it not a vw but I have audi a1 66 plate I bought the car last year before I bought the car the left headlight there was an issue which they repaired it was ballast costing 410 after 3 months i had the same warning light come up head light malfunction dipped beam, so scanned it with obd2 nothing came up so we bought a cheap ballast for 25 and it worked then failed after 2 days so as the orginal part was from audi we put that back in the car and it worked perfect which is weird as it had failed it worked fine for 5 months solid and tonight it decides to fail has any one experience this? I replaced the bulb too still same also also done a check on the other headlight to make sure if not electrical but nope that worked perfect it a total mystery...I'm trying to look solutions as I can't think what it could be I mean every post I looked at they said they taken cars to audi and they don't see a problem or they say it the ballast if it the ballast it failed twice the part is under warranty for 2 years and I think if I take it there and they put a new one what saying that won't fail too... If any one can suggest or had this experience and fixed it I would love to know... So here what we done so far Scanned for codes and run test on obd2 No errors Check fuses all fine It has new ballast Check wiring all looks fine New xenon bulb