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It drives fine, the engine light disappeared and has not been on atm but I don’t want it to get proper bad.

I contacted the garage and they are suppose to get in touch with me. this is stressful.

DPF and or EGR Cooler. It can get expensive depending on individual circumstances. I would contact the garage, irrespective if it’s 2 hours away. The part-exchange shouldn’t affect anything.

It has come to that time of year when I sit in my office at home for hours on end looking for the best deal to insure my E-Tron G.T. Dead line is June 28th, still waiting for Admiral's renewal quote, but the online figures are coming out at about £2700+. It is a good job I like the G.T. Especially as in March it will need to be taxed which will be £195 plus £415 luxury car tax. These insurance companies just don't like us older chaps. Who don't drive at excessive speed, and are not going to wrap it round the nearest lamp post. Tony

Has anybody tried or using a pedal tune on a A7 55tfsi? I've seen that they remove the lag from the accelerator, just wondering if I should take the plunge and get one. Maybe APR or Burger Motorsport, but there seems to be lots more to choose from. I would be good if anyone could recommend one if they are using it.

I decided to order a new TCM. installed it and NOTHING. really am stumped. Out of desperation i remembered one ground i pulled out with the old head unit which i didn't plug back in as the unit turned on without it. it was located close to the CAN bus so thought there might be so correlation. Sadly nothing still. Currently i have the glove box out in an effort to find anything that i may have touched when fiddling with the head unit. the one thing that pops out is a stray plug which i have no recollection pulling out and doesn't fit any of the head unit wiring. Ill attach a photo in a separate reply.

Hey, did you ever find out what the issue was? i have the exact same issue currently. installed a new pioneer head unit. couldnt get it to work. re installed the old one and got the issue. Iv gone so far as to install a new TCM, after finding power at the TCM and no blown fuses. If you found a solution id really appreciate some help Cheers

Hello all, I have the same issue since a while now. Initially it was an single time issue then it became an intermittent issue. Then I figured out while pressing the brake before even touching the start button, it bypass the error. However, I decided to solve the issue and ran a diagnostic where the main error was P0C2900 - Auxiliary transmission fluid pump driver circuit , Performance After this, we ordered a new coolant with the following reference (0CK325583J upgraded version, 2019 -) initial version is H but vendor recommended J). https://www.oemvwshop.com/0ck325583h-engine-p546436/ So upon installing this with a new oil and gasket kit, and upgrading the software from v0002 to v0008 the error is back, yet different. This time the error show when turning on the car (one click and engine off) but goes away once the turning the engine and error disappears. Any ideas? Is there a error memory or an adaptation procedure? Thanks

It was bought from the dealer. Quiet far away as 2 hour drive. I did do a part exchange so idk how this would work. I do love the car already just wonder what could be wrong with it really.

If bought from a dealer you can return it for a full refund or free repair in the first 30 days after sale.

Purchased an Audi SQ5 (2016) with 47k miles back in Dec 24. Prior to purchase had a full RAC check carried out on it, but always noticed a slight smell coming from underneath, had exhaust checked and emissions tested all clear. Roll on 6 months and 12k miles, DPF light cam on after a long motorway drive, carried out manual regen (drive at 2500 rev etc etc) all fine 2 weeks later engine light appeared, fault code was for blocked DPF (never went into limp mode, or lost performance). Mobile DPF came out tested and said no pressure in DPF and with the smell said it must be cracked. Took to a local Audi specialist who said DPF could not be regenerated and new one required. £3700 later car back after having DPF replaced, engine and turbo checked, injectors checked, EGR Checked, Air Breather replaced along with Air Mass sensor, but I still have a foul smell coming from exhaust/underneath the near side, now I am no mechanic, and car is going back in to be checked after 2k miles with the new DPF, but that smell cannot be right, and hoping that someone else may have had the same issue, or provide some guidance. The smell is not all the time, but you can smell it in the cabin and not just outside when it occurs Many Thanks

I have recently purchased an Audi. It has 54k miles on it and engine light came on today. Readings showed code p200200. What could be causing this and how much would the repair be?

Would I be able to code myself using obdeleven? Local VAG specialist wants £100+ which is a joke and another independent reckons it doesn’t need doing.

It's a diesel, I have tried the cardboard underneath both when hot and cold and left overnight but there is nothing on it to suggest a leak.

Yeah the mechanic did mention the EGR cooler but said its an expensive part to replace if it's not that, he did mention something about the only way to find out was by-passing it to eliminate it before buying the part...can I ask where does the coolant go if its internal? Does it not have to come out somewhere? (Forgive me if that is a silly Q but I really don't know that much about it). Thankyou for your reply 😊

Like a '70s hot rod mate!

A common culprit for invisible coolant losses is the EGR cooler, They have been known to leak internally yet still pass a pressure test.

Remove the engine under-tray. Check coolant level first and top up, then get car to operating temperature and park over cardboard. Shouldn’t be too difficult to trace the leak. Even determining which side of the engine is useful. Have decent LED torch handy. Difficult to pinpoint, petrol and diesel version have different characteristics. Suggest you change your mechanic too. Three trips and no resolution? https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/14457-coolant-loss/ https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/384742/

No idea about those roof lining buttons, but I’ll bet it will look horrendous by the time you’re finished. The only way to fix properly is to remove, strip off the old headlining, and use new OE VAG roof lining with a suitable contact adhesive. Tools wise, long handled torx screwdrivers, and this special tool for interior grab handles. https://vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDetail.aspx?itemId=38730184 There’s curtain airbags in there, so disconnect battery and leave for 30 mins. If this is a B6 Avant, headlining can come out via the tailgate. Usual electric connections as sun-visors, central convenience lighting, etc. If there’s a sunroof, then the panel detaches around it with metal clips.

Sadly no. I've part ex'd them with another set, ironically a set I dont need so they may appear here.

no never got it sorted I'm still driving it and it has got no better or worse

Thanks Gareth i am going to buy the full section this is how they are usually sold on eBay it also seems to be the cheapest option, the part number i am using for a comparison is from the driveshaft difficult to use part number from hub, no barcode or sticker part number. So I am buying the same part number driveshaft with the hub attached, I have now sourced and purchased one I’m hoping this will be the one. Fingers crossed. Thanks again for your response I appreciate it. Yes you would think that but no I am doing the hunting for the parts. Mine have been removed now so I am comparing parts via images and numbers but none seem to be exact.

Does anyone have any idea where my A1 could be leaking coolant from?, it's had a new reservoir, I've had it pressure tested and that was fine, nothing on the floor when left overnight but then it just empties when on a drive, I can't see any obvious leaks from hoses...took it to a mechanic 3 times and each time they just can't find where it's coming from. The car is not overheating at all, I'm just fed up of not being able to get to the bottom of it. Any advice welcome.

Has anyone used these repair 'buttons' (see link below) to fix a saging roof lining. I just need to know if it works on an Audi of any description. https://www.fruugo.qa/headliner-repair-button-universal-car-roof-fabrics-nylon-fit-compatible-for-all-carscheck-clothbeige/p-255109155-554160885?language=en