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Hi, I'm looking for a engine/injector wiring loom that goes from the ECU (8P0 907 115 T Med 9.1) to the injectors (06F906036A) for a Audi A3 2008 2.0L TFSI Quattro due to an intermittent misfire issue on cylinder no. 4. Cost from TPS for genuine replacement is astronomical, any help would be appreciated (e.g. where to source a replacement, correct part no., etc)

I have pointed you in one possible direction, so it is now time to do your own research. There is endless information available if you are really interested, but somehow I don't believe you are. I am withdrawing from this discussion.

I should have also added - Faith in someone or something is paramount. Consistency is important. Going to your house and never knowing if the door lock will work, or the alarm will go off, or the smoke alarm will be activated. These are important things. And the same applies to the second most important thing after a house, a car, that people buy. Audi has failed me - but I doubt they are any different from other car manufacturers. Mercedes is on its last legs as a company, along with Porsche, and all the premium brands are losing money or market share. Too cheap Chinese cars - that seems to just work. Premium brands are time-limited, in my opinion. But - seems that's the short-term future of large organisations now.

There is 1 charging point where I work, but it is only allowed to be used by managers who have electric cars leased through the company, so I am not sure I would get chance to use it, and even then presumably I would have to pay if it was my car? Is it a lot more expensive to charge electric cars in public charging places? I am guessing you pay extra for the service etc? I like some electric cars, like the Audi e-tron GT or the Porsche Taycan, but they aren't exactly in my price range.😵

Sorry what is a self charging hybrid?🫣

Well - now completed 500 miles. The car in driving mode is fantastic. Nippy, comfortable, quiet, and a pleasure to drive - a real pleasure. The downside - It would not start last week - the alarm also went off - and woke up the whole street. It stopped without intervention after around 2 minutes. Then, trying to get it into drive mode took at least 20 minutes. Turning ignition on and off, and all the usual tyre kicking. It eventually worked. Apple CarPlay - I am sick to death of having to reconnect the phone, and I have tried 2 others and all the same problem. Every time the car is started, having to tap a confirmation on the screen - or the app's MMI is unavailable. It's not my wording - that is what is displayed on the screen. The annoying routine of having to go through every safety feature to turn off all the nanny prompts. The worry of going towards the car, wondering what is going to go wrong next. If I want to go to Tesco with the wife, I make sure I get to the car first - hoping to sort any problem and turn off all the nanny prompts before she gets in. Then the worry is what problems are going to be thrown up when we leave the store. So - The best car to drive - but the one I don't want to drive - fearing what will go wrong next......

Hi I’ve just joined and I want running boards on my 2024 Q5 petrol standard. I live in Edinburgh does anyone know where I can go other than the main dealer as they are extremely expensive. I require them to supply and fit for a good price.

Charge it daily at work. Charge it once per week at a public charge point. Charge it at a supermarket while shopping. Charge it at a garage en route from work. Those options may not be as convenient as home charging, but are entirely possible.

Thanks I will have a look at the coilovers and make a decision, I believe the brand is mts techniq and just a coilover replacement for the original drc setup. I'm looking at swapping them for a set of bilsteins at some point. As for the arms and suspension bushes everything is either new oem or poly bushed. Apart from the strut tops which need replacing. Many thanks Pete

What about a self charging hybrid? Steve.

Hi if the strut is the same as standard but with a coil over set up instead of the spring and pan set up they should be fine but you may be better served just using stiffer dampers and standard heavy duty springs otherwise the coil over option may well lead to a harsh ride which will give all the link arms a hard time unless you are prepared to change the arms as well. Steve.

Steve firstly thankyou for your reply. Will this mean they will be umcompatable with the normal road set up of coil overs then?

I had thought about an electric car but I live in a first floor flat, and my car is parked quite a few metres from the building. Also, the lease prevents me from making modifications to the building so I wouldn't be able to install a charger at home, so I am not sure how I would charge it up even if it was parked near the building. I don't really know anything about electric cars at all to be honest.

Hi the top mounts are solid because they don't have to rotate in the same way as a McPherson strut assembly where the shock turns with the steering, the strut never moves and the hub orbits the strut via the link arms. Steve.

I know you have seen the above two questions Kian, so I can only assume you are unwilling to help other members of the forum by replying. One warning coming up.

Well if you don't know what aspects of a car appeal to you how can I possibly suggest something you might like? From a purely practical point of view of using the car for a daily commute of eighteen miles with minimal wear and cost a battery electric car would be most suitable.

Its the pressing of the lock or unlock on the key fob.

Need to turn the hill hold setting off and hold the car with the footpedal while turning the engine off.

What's a plip?

Is it petrol, diesel, or hybrid?

Coil packs do fail. Odd the cats gone at the same time.

A common problem with Audis of that era is damage to the wires within the rubber bellows between door and frame. It is worth checking all doors and the boot lid.

As the gearbox oil was changed recently it makes me think it's sensor related. I think it needs an Audi independent specialist.

On multi-link suspension, start with the cheap stuff first and then progress. The lower arms are likely hydrabushes, so they leak when they fail. I changed mine at 65k on a 17 plate A4 Allroad. Lemforder is OE specification. Also check the ARB bushes on the sway bar. Next the ARB link, then finally the top arms. Top arms when they go, will knock. They are usually visible if you hold and 10-2 position and try lateral movement. The only thing left is the top mounts and the bump stops on the suspension shock. If you're changing anything, then always do both sides. Lemforder and Meyle HD, that's all I'd fit. Given the state of our roads - also look at the coil springs too. you can drop an inch and not even know about it. Not sure with A5, but on A4 Avant, the rear spring seat/bush corrodes from inside out, so although cheap from Audi, you're looking at labour to fit unless you're spanner handy. I did it myself so as not to disturb eccentric bolt. If I was doing it again, I would just mark then remove that bolt. This is complicated further if its quattro drive. Car will need alignment check afterwards.