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Added a genuine S3 Lip Spoiler to the boot lid. I love it. Such a small, subtle mod but makes so much difference. Next will be rear window tints. Just to smoke them out a little.

It is just 62000 miles.

Hi Cliff, I have stuck the number of studs and the pcd in the title of my post, thanks.

That sounds about normal for a couple of hours work.

A new transmission on a six year old car is surprising. How many miles has it done?

It might help if you told folk what PCD and number of holes you are looking for.

I trust my local mechanic far more than I do Halfords

As suggested - just take it to Halfords and get the alternator output checked.

NOW SOLD

I had an issue with the air conditioning in my 2019 e-tron 55, so I took it to Audi Milton Keynes. The problem was that I couldn’t activate the AC either through the mobile app or directly from the car. It was showing a fault code, but the code only indicated that the AC wasn’t working—without explaining the cause. After checking several forums, I found that it could be a pressure sensor issue. I shared this with the service team, but they insisted it was a wiring problem and said they needed to perform wiring diagnostics. In the end, it turned out there was no wiring issue at all—the problem was caused by a £100 pressure sensor. However, I still had to pay an extra £400 for the unnecessary wiring work.

Scan the car with VCDS. Normally when the dash lights up like a Christmas tree it’s a wheel speed sensor.

Hi everyone, I have a 2019 e-tron 55, and a few days ago I started noticing a noise coming from the rear when starting to move and braking. At first, I suspected that something might have gotten stuck in the brake pads, as it sounded like a scraping noise. Then I tried braking while the car was in neutral, and interestingly, the noise didn’t occur. I took the car to Audi Milton Keynes, but they told me there were no fault codes detected. However, when they took a sample from the transmission oil, they found metal particles and said the transmission needs to be replaced. I called several places for repair, but it’s nearly impossible to find a specialist. Considering the average repair cost for most cars is around £3000, the £4600 quote I got from the dealership actually seemed reasonable. They said the part will take 3–4 days to arrive, and the removal and installation should take another 2 days.

Hi everyone, i'm wondering if anyone can help. I need a set of cheap wheels to put on a 100 coupe so i can move it around. I'm having trouble finding some as it appears to be an unusual bolt pattern, I've found some trailer wheels and subaru ones in that pcd but thats about all. Is there anything else that shared that pattern? Thanks!

I have an A6 C6 2008 Allroad. Suddenly while driving I got a long bleep and the ESP, ABS and suspension pump lights came on. I was driving back from Spain at the time so couldn't do very much but it didn't seem to affect anything. The ESP off switch does nothing now. I don't know if ESP and/or ABS are working but the suspension pump is still working even though the light is on. The only thing I have noticed different is that when using cruise control it no longer automatically brakes to maintain the set speed. It accelerates fine but does not slow the car down on a hill. When you first start the car sometimes there is a delay of up to 10 minutes before the lights come on and sometimes they come on immediately. I have visually checked all the fuses for the ABS and ESP and they are fine. I can't find any other posts which mention these 3 lights. Has anyone any ideas? All help appreciated, thanks.

I took the car to a local mechanic. He was not concerned with what I thought might be a low voltage at the battery terminals whilst the engine was running as he said the car has smart charging which involves varying voltages. He ran a diagnostic and could see some warnings relating to something along the lines of an electronic turbo control unit (can't remember the exact name. I have the diagnostic report printout but not with me right now). He reckons it would be £300-£400 fitted incl VAT. He cleared the warning light from the dash and suggested I see how it goes before making a decision on what to do. Unfortunately I have been getting the drive system fault dash warnings since. But interestingly it has been manifesting a little differently. Previously the warning would tend to come on part way through a journey. But recently it has tended to be when turning on the engine ignition whilst the engine was already warm from a recent drive. I haven't yet had the warning whilst starting the ignition from cold.

I agree Richard and Clifford. Unfortunately in today’s society so many people rely upon technology that they can’t think outside the box. Take for instance, buying shopping. The shop assistant puts through your shopping, tells you a price, for example £14.89 and you hand them £20. But then you find the 89p in the back of your purse and offer that. Many people can’t figure out the change without the machine telling them! However, this luxury SUV has every warning lights and sensor you could imagine so you think it would flag something on the dash. I’ve asked for a breakdown of the work and what’s been eliminated so far. I will not be authorising stripping out carpets, seats and pipes until I’m satisfied that they have checked the common leak points and the self levelling system first. The car 5 is years old and 28k miles. I don’t drive like a racer and it’s been serviced and maintained every year. So I don’t imagine there is anything major and it’s purely down to wear and tear. I just hope that I get to the bottom of it, without having to shell out more money for the incompetence of the franchises IMG_0080.mov

Have some patience Guy. Your question was only posted 24 hours ago. If there is no response in a week it's safe to assume that nobody here knows or is willing to respond.

Anybody ?

Thank you Steve. I've got a thread up asking how to remove the spoiler, to get at the third brake light. Do you know of anyone who might know how?

Could be anything, turbo, fuel pump, etc. Scan with VCDS, that will reveal the error, if it’s existed before plus any other anomalies.

In respect of original question to Colin, If brand new hardware, especially Audi, then I would look at the brake lines and put on genuine VAG. In addition, use VCDS to open the electronic parking brake and close. They are a funny old set up, but that’s my experience. I’ve also seen rear brake pads sticking on the carrier. The carrier will corrode and the shims force the pads to tighten and they don’t move. You can use a metal file on the carrier and wire brush, if it’s original stock. Had a similar issue with new Zimmermann discs and pads in an Audi Allroad B8. I also stripped the EPB. On rebuilding, use a smear of ceramic brake grease on pad shoulders, on carrier shims and piston face.

how I said, after reversing polarity I change the alternator and I was luky and I change 4 or 5 fuses for MMI and something else , but afer that the car was start and drive very good, like before. My problem is now with this no start , no lights on dashbord and no power for OBD. Maybe with someone was in this problem.

Hi, New here and recently purchased a 2016 (66) A6. Is there anyway I can update any of the versions I have. I have attached a photo with them on. Or could I replace the unit with an aftermarket one that uses android auto etc, if this is the case what would people recommend and how easy is the process ?

Dumitru. Considering the potential for damage to delicate electronics by reversing the polarity it will be a miracle if the car can be restored without help from an auto electrician.

The fact that there is a dashboard warning means an electronic problem. Get it scanned as a first step to diagnosis.