All Activity

Did anyone get to the bottom of this problem as we are now experiencing the same thing?

Luckily it's going into gear ok so don't think it's the gearbox , it's seems to be when I start to move while in drive or reverse, so it feels to me like something lose and knocking, im starting to think about lose driveshaft bolt .

Take it back. Transmission issues rarely resolve themselves. Assuming this is 7-speed S tronic. It needs serviced every 38k miles. If gearbox was serviced, I’d want written notification of that. It could be a firmware issue of course, so would need need a scan to check what’s what, but first thing the dealer is likely to do is drop the oil, new filter, etc. If there any contamination in the gearbox, then that’s on them.

You’re right to flag it. Something isn’t sitting right once the suspension or brakes were reassembled A single clunk could be pads moving in the brake carrier. Were the garage lazy and simply buzzed it back on? A strip down, blow out with compressed air and light smear of ceramic grease would bed everything in. The final torque on the hub bolt is with the wheel still raised, and there’s a sequence. Any other associated suspension links that were dismantled should be checked too.

Often a battery on its way out will trigger faults. Don’t put yourself in the position by trying to kick it down the line, it will let you down. If money is tight, then any AGM battery, VARTA, Yuasa, etc, same cold cranking amps as the original. In terms of coding VCDS if you know someone or OBDeleven. Fitting is straight forward. If you have scan software, then don’t bother hooking up battery trickle charge to points in engine, just take it out, importantly remembering to photograph the code and connect the vent tube. Code it in and forget out it.

Was your problem ever resolved Cooper? We have found ourselves with the exact same fault with our A1 (68 reg) and the car was sold to us by Audi used dealer with a ‘makeshift earth repair’ on one side which has now burnt out again and the other side is heading in the same direction. We’ve only had the car six months and have an Audi extended warranty for another 6 months. Not sure if it can be fixed under that. But if the fault reoccurs it leaves me nervous.

Try speaking to these people about what you want to do and what you'll need Car Stereo Car Audio | Dynamic Sounds | Car Stereo System ... They seem to be very good and not too expensive.

had the battery changed a few months back,and halfords said it never needed coding.but it was a halfords battery i bought from ebay.they said it was new and i trusted ebay and halfords lol

i had the rear calipers changed by the garage 3 months ago at a cost of around £500.i tried ringing the garage i know they are quite busy they have been good to me so i will try them first and let you know.....i tried clearing the faults ,but come straight back on...AA gave me a quote online at 285 fitted.....but left that for now until i know what the garage comes up with....but strangely enough the cd player showing its faulty too.....hence i thought battery....i mentioned about the battery a while ago but never come back to you all as everything was going ok....so sorry. regards stephen

Hey all I have an 2015 audi a6 c7 auto s tronic 7 speed , yesterday I got the passenger side outer cv joint replaced, it sorted out the usual cv joint symptom of clicking when turning. Today I noticed something strange , when I put the car and reverse and accelerate the is a clunk noise only once , it then does it when I stop and go into drive , again one singal clunk . The car is driving perfect it's just the signal clunk on initial take off either in drive or reverse. Have to wait to go back to garage . Could it be backlash. It's only come since the cv joint was replaced . Sounds harmless but nervous that it's doing damage . Has anybody experienced this before ? it's like a singal metallic clunk in drive and reverse , nothing while driving after initial acceleration . Thanks

hi,gareth thanks for your imput will upload pics soon of faults

I will wait for the Vid..

I routed my hardwire kit on the wrong side of the air bag so need to go back in the nearside A pillar and move it very soon. When I do I'll take a video of the route and the fuse box. It's pretty easy with a hardwire kit and straight to the fuse box and overall might be less fuss than trying to get power from the mirror set up.

If anyone is looking for a solution below is the link, I might give it a go as I don't like taking panels off. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dashcam-Suitable-Volkswagen-Rearview-D3-021-Black/dp/B0DG1QN43H/ref=sr_1_10?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Qw4lndYoDqb7LseAEj2CXfkOvJTNfvPsmW_jfEbdQopXlifm6TdcQW7B3T2Gk0G0pGT7eZIilE5LiAGZk8kELa-tr_jxgvavyiaTsJIpSzZmYakPdE1Y7KFdEBdHr3XaTHeSWF11KBsknTCi57HaZYma--dsikBAxTtdOM5JogZf_flP_sQxPtNUCfcoGjNJ9HHD25Ay8gDeNWDuvPyYyGbPwyXbcU9un9X0HAD0U2h9AZkzeqpdTxnLowEowExHP6FXVMiWoUsmdjh_NhKjvhGuikS3MlOlGzYVny8uAAg.uCr_u5vcyG9EecN6wLIEXSs4zvAO6rWVAOztqwecM10&dib_tag=se&keywords=FitDVR&qid=1748376589&s=electronics&search-type=ss&sr=1-10 https://dongar.tech/collections/adapters but Audi is not available on this link but is on Amazon.

The passenger footwear fuse box (RHD) is helpful separated in to live and switched fuse banks. There are loads of switched live options free but from my experience, the hardwire kit I got from NextBase had a 'large' piggy back fuse kit. The switched live fuse bank are all 'small' fuses. I chatted up my local Halfords person person and got the small fuse adapter which works perfectly. As above, I've previously had a problem with the rear camera affecting the DAB signal so I ran the cables through the handles on the headlining as a test for a few days. Didn't seem to have much effect so I've now got the cable in through the A/B pillars ready to take the boot lining out and fit to the rear window properly.

Hi I believe that it needs to be wired to a Fuse box. But I'm not a sparky so better to ask

Last bit :- vital that you do in my book Andy, before committing. Please do not be mislead into thinking low mileage is any assurance from potential issues, since if you consider such low mileage is usually as a result of short journey use, with numerous gear changes etc. along with stops and starts, and braking. Always worth reviewing the broader picture of pros and cons of low mileage compared with the same car covering high motorway miles at optimum operating conditions. Regards, Gareth.

So you have the ABS and traction control lights showing Stephen-? If it were mine, I would be getting confirmation of the fault via. and independent. It wont be a sensor on the rear caliper, but the ABS sensor monitoring the rear hub. It could also be a weak ‘sender’ built into the rear hub, necessitating a new hub and bearing assembly. I’ve used Febi parts for these to good effect. Please let us know what you find out. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Did you get ‘for comparison’ battery quotes from the suggested suppliers?

Is there a method to get power from the mirror using an adaptor, I have seen several clips on YouTube but didn't know if anyone had tried on a Audi?

The car is now sold

Gonna get it checked by a VW specialist first, the dealer will likely try to bodge/cover it up etc. I'm sure a pro will just drive it for 5 mins to see the issues. I'm kicking myself, British roads so bumpy I couldn't tell in the test drive so many potholes I want to be armed when I go back, main dealer I got it from,17k with warranty.

Nevertheless if it is the original battery it is long overdue to be changed irrespective of any sensor fault.

No, the car is faulty and is likely to be an expensive repair. Take it back to the dealer before the 30 day limit expires.

I have to agree with Cliff I suspect it's the amplifier. I'd recommend a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up

Yep a c8.