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Hi, can anyone tell me if I am missing something here. Small pipe coming from under front air intake not connected to anything else.

Hi, after a few weeks I'd had enough of the excessive noise and decided to cut my losses. I traded the car in for a 6 month old BMW 320i Sport. The BMW is so much quieter. Audi ought to be ashamed of the A3. I did read reviews that mentioned excess noise but I didn't expect what I experienced. Admittedly, my previous car was an A6 Avant but the A3 was still much noisier than I think is acceptable.

Hello, Just wondering if you resolved your noise issue? My other half has recently got herself a 2021 A3 35 tfsi s-line with 18" wheels and I'm amazed at how much road noise there is, it's really bad. The tyres are Hanhook ventus S1 evo3, which appear to get a decent reviews. There's a little bit of chatter online about the A3 being noisy but I still can't believe it can be this bad. So other than the tyres, which I've tried at various pressures, what else could it be? Is it possible the car has insulation missing? Any advice welcome. Thanks

Before having a full service recently the car had a bit of an erratic idol at tick over. Had the service done, all filters, fuel filter, oils, spark plugs etc etc replaced. erratic idol still existed, after a couple of fuel injector cleaner solutions added to the fuel at full tanks, the engine management light came on. I have plugged the car in to a reader, only two codes came up one for a clutch sensor which was green but a lean fuel code came up, nothing else, no mass air flow sensor codes, or anything else, my mechanic wasn’t too worried and reset the E/M light. Half way home of a 200mile journey it come back on again. now the start up is really laboured, 3 to 4 long turn overs be fore it fires up, and stop start journeys the car starts up straight away, but after an hour of non use the car goes back to the start up issues. There is no smoke discharge at all, although now does smell a bit rich at first turn over. MPG Is way down as well from 32mpg to 22mpg. no miss fire codes or any other fault code available . can any one shed some light its the 1.8 turbo petrol engine

Thanks Gareth, will do. Always had a spare of some sort, doesn't feel right without .

I mean it’s just a question . Always thought Castro and shell is what Audi use anyway . Buying 5 litres seems quite cost effective. I haven’t bought it yet I was asking if this one is shortest . Anyway thanks for your input !

Why on earth Costco for oil for this very, very expensive car that you are investing many tens of thousands on pounds on? Sorry to say it as it is, but it’s a rather confusing set of economics! Also why buy 5 ltrs of oil, which you question is correct or not, rather than simply going to your local Audi dealer and buying a litre ( probably all you need) cheaper? Your warranty depends on using the guaranteed correct ( in caps) oil, and any subsequent claim and evidence of using perhaps questionable oil, will not be a good place to be. Kind regards, Gareth.

Space savers are usually of a lower profile, so just check the rolling diameter of your 18 inch wheel and tyre, and compare it with the figure you will be given for the same dimension of a 19 inch spacesaver. You will also need to check if it will fit in its compartment. Let us know how you get on Jeremy. Kind regards, Gareth.

Assume these are heater water jets? At £30 each or so, it is what it is. EBay, then you’ve no idea, possibly cheap Chinese made and boxed as authentic. Link here, there’s a left and right part number. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/AQ5/751/9/955/955010

Hi all. Quick question, I have 18" on my Allroad yet the Wheelshop recommended a 19" spacesaver ?

The car needs to be scanned with VCDS. The fact the fault is intermittent will still register the error, and time it happens. Given it’s the gearbox, then act sooner rather than later to have it checked. This gearbox needs an oil and filter service every 38k miles.

Does anyone know where I can source quality left and right hand replacement windscreen spray nozzles made for a RH drive vehicle? Audi Dealers are way overpriced.

If the oil complies with the following specification then yes. Applies to diesel engines: Standards: VW 507 00, ACEA C3, ACEA C4 or API CK-4. All viscosity classes of these standards are allowed. 5w-30 and 0w-30 VW507 00 (low ash) oils are fine. 5w is slightly higher viscosity then 0w but both are acceptable. Audi dealerships tend to use 5w-30 for servicing as it’s cheaper per barrel. I tend to prefer oil changes being down with 5w-30 and top us 1ltr with 0w-30. Whilst it’s probably negligible difference in reality. I believe as the synthetic oil breaks down due to heat and carbon deposits etc. adding low viscosity oil during top ups in between servicing I find improves overall efficiency. It’s normally towards the end of the service period where I see a drop off of mpg where it’s normally 50-56mpg I used to get around 42-47mpg with my oil top ups it’s now between 45-51mpg for the same journey/time.

I have answered my own question, but thought providing the answer may save some one else looking to deeply. The connection part was a "user error" (mine) not realising not to respond to the screen message on first entering the car with "continue", should have responded "select"... Ho hum. As to the music source. The system on our model (Q5 TFSI e 50) 2025 model does play music directly from a USB stick. The file structure should be formatted "FAT32". I have music files stored as FLAC and Apple AAC, the FLAC files are both 16 bit and 24 bit, and up to 192khz. All play perfectly well. To. a lot of people, the above might not one important, to me it is. Far easier to upload files to a USB stick than my I phone and then playing it through the I phone system. Hope this might help others. Andy

Hello everyone, I thought I’ll share something here with people that might experience same problem as I did. Recently I’ve got a message on my MMI saying I have to enter my user login details again for some reason and I was not been able to do that. Every time I was putting in my email address and password, a message would come, saying: You could not be logged in at this moment, try again later. Or something like that. I’ve tried everything, log out from My Audi app, log back in, clear catch on my storage for Audi app, delete the Audi app, add new user, remove user key, literally everything I thought would help. Nothing worked, and I was driving my car under guest user for a while until today when I had enough of it and sat down again and started from the beginning, determined to crack this issue and I succeeded. What I did was: 1. Delete the app on the IPhone. 2. Reinstall the app back on the phone. 3. Reset the password via forgot my password after you type in your username. 4.. Remove the vehicle on My Audi app and add the vehicle back in, remember you need the vehicle identification code to do this. follow the steps from the app to add your car. 5.Factory reset your MMI or reboot to normal mode, you know, two fingers on RH on top of the screen. 6. When reset has been successful, log in with select user, or add new user, login in using your username and the password which you have reset earlier. This is what I did and it helped me to login and my Audi app is working normal too. I hope this will help other people with the same issue I had. all the best

Audi A3 2017 with an automatic S tronic gear box. Sometimes when I get in the car it’ll throw up a fault saying I no longer have reverse gear and then also takes away 2nd 4th and 6th gear. This is an intermittent fault that sometimes just goes away with keying the car on and off but the engine management light stays on permanently. Then other times I’ll get in and start up and it’ll throw up a different fault code. All really confusing because I never know if the cars safe to drive. I took it to a garage to have the faults diagnosed but because the faults keep coming back then clearing by themselves it’s almost impossible to get them diagnosed because it’s always random. If anyone could point me in the right direction or has suffered from this issue themselves any information would be greatly appreciated. I’ll attach the faults in images below. As I said both of these faults are intermittent so they come on and off all the time but the engine management light is constantly on.