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When you say greater offset do you mean less? My originals i have on are 15s but they look lost in the wheel arches, ive looked at numerous pics of c4s with what ranges from 17s to 19s. Like you say I dont really want to go down the spacer route and with them being on the front aswell.

Good evening gentlemen, upon replacing my pcv I have taken my car down the motorway and a large amount of blue smoke came from the back when overtaking, I had continued for another 3 miles and pulled over and there was some smoke coming from exhaust, I turned car off for about 10 mins and drove the 15 miles home and not a single bit of smoke, gave it proper acceleration all the way through 3rd and 4th to about 110mph and nothing so belive this has fixed my issue

Hi guys, I have a 2008 audi a5 coupe 3.0 tdi on about 138k miles, the ac was blowing ice cold on 1 side and slightly warmer on the other, it was like this for a couple weeks but then eventually stopped blowing cold at all so I thought it was just a case of getting it regassed, I took it to 2 different places to get it regassed but both said that no matter what they couldn't get the compressor to engage/kick in.. they said it could be a sensor, a switch or the compressor itself.. so I've now taken it to a 3rd place for a diagnosis and they said they think it's the compressor but to test the compressor they have to basically get to a point where they start taking it off to get to the plug so I might aswell just replace it while they're at it since they think that's the problem anyway.. what do u guys think? I've scanned the car using obdeleven and got the car scanned by them and it's got no codes at all

Yes u are right, cleaned it off and inspected it properly and its pointing towards front crankshaft seal. I keep getting a persistent P0341 error for camshaft sensor, which I’ve replaced but still appears. Im thinking it could be related. Once again thank you for your input 🙏

Tyres that rub on the suspension leg will certainly cause problems, to put it mildly. While spacers might solve the problem they are bodge. You would do better to buy wheels with a greater offset.

Hi, im after some advice/help? I purchased a set of oem audi wheels, there 17s ET45. I went to have them fitted yesterday, the rear looks perfect but the front the tyres sit on the suspension leg. Ive searched and asked questions, im told 10mm spacers on the front will sort the problem but im a little concerned overtime it could cause problems? All the pics ive searched/seen the c4s range from 17s to 19s all round Thank you 🙂

Gauze missing from cam-bridge...... Removed pcv, hpfp, vacuum pump and of course the cam-bridge and valve parts. Had the inlet manifold off to fit another seal so been check there also (I know not likely) Any rare sightings welcomed 🤔

Into the garage on Monday

Hi guys New to the Audi forum, even though I've had my car for about 8 years. Had a lot of work done on it lately, including crank pulley, drive belt, water pump, coolant valve, etc. Car is in otherwise good working order and has clocked up 108k miles. Last few days, I've noticed that when I accelerate (and ONLY when I accelerate), car is making an audible sound when I go past 20mph. Its not going into limp mode. It still pulls well and the revs go up as they should. The more I accelerate, the more this noise gets louder. The clutch doesn't feel too spongey or too firm. At a push, the accelerator pedal may be giving off a very subtle vibration - nothing major. The best way I can describe the sound is like that of a sporty car with a loud exhaust when it is being driven fast. Like a loud whining sound? I have attached a clip that will hopefully be able to help. My possible thoughts are either something to do with the turbo or the wheel bearing. Many thanks in advance for anyone that recognises the issue. Cheers, Oz20260702_121029.mp4

guys ive put a deposit down on a RS6 C7.5 2018, just wondering what are the biggest issues to look out for and anything you guys would give a heads up to a new owner? The last RS i had was a RS4 B7 the 20067 4.2

mis understanding steve he said its a pig to do

Hi I don't know what you are on about, changing the sensor is a joy, the bolt holding it in is nearly always seized and then you have the fabulous prospect of getting the new one in at the right angle without disturbing the reluctor ring on the crank seal, take in to account the swear box bill, buy the mechanic a beer. Steve.

Hi the oil sensor is common I had two on my car the oil is probably coming from the sump seal mine did that too, they also delight in leaking from the front crank seal and the cam shaft seals, they also leak from the oil cooler and the rear crank seal thats why there's a hole where the gearbox meets the engine to let it run out and spray down the under tray and cross member for the gearbox, you will always be playing chase the ace with leaks, rocker cover injector seals are another source of oil buying habits, I swear Audi have shares in Quantum Steve

Hi. Please feel free to give us a try for insurance if you wish. We give discounts of up to 15% of car insurance for members. Regards, Dan.

Oil leak☹️- A6 2015 2.0tdi ultra Mmi oil sensor was reading off, telling me to Reduce oil, while diagnostic machine was showing extremely low oil (value should be around 80mm but was 33mm!) so ordered sensor and oil. And when took tray off, sump and tray all covered in oil. For now ive cleaned it all off and gonna have a look at where the oil might be leaking from. Any ideas? 1756e869-11f7-4ed4-bc9a-937a17fdad75.mov

update car cranked over but would not start,so called th AA out.he connected his computer to the car and it came up with crankshaft sensor.he suggested changing the battery as when he connected his battery pack the car started.so we tried a brand new battery(see pics) but it would not start so he took it off.so he said its probably the crankshaft sensor.so left the car overnight so the engine was cold and it started so took it to the garage and 2 days later and a new crankshaft sensor all is good.....the cost at the garage was £47.50 for the sensor and £200 labour....the guy said it was a pig to get to at the back of the engine.so i would suggest leaving this one to a garage.thanks all

Was the above response helpful to you Suheel? I know you have seen it and the responses to your other question.

Hey there Kieran, I've got an '85 Quattro B2 and was just looking for a wing mounted arial myself. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/aerial-10795/audi/80/80-81-85-b2 Entering the reg. on their site and filtering to what you want seems easy enough. Good Luck Dean

Fair enough as long as it was coded.

Thanks, Steve. /Chris

Many thanks, Richard. I will look into this. I have seen many people offering cheaper kits for sale, but assume they're all cloned software, and liable to missing functionality etc. I think, if we are running expensive SQ5 or higher-end cars, it's not a big deal to pay for the VCDS, as the cost of some repairs will way exceed that - DIY now becomes a viable option. /Chris

Hey everyone, hunting a bizarre wiring short on a 2015 Audi A4 2.0 tdi 190ps . and wanted to see if anyone has encountered this specific failure point before I strip the entire loom back. The Core Symptoms: The car was doing an excessive amount of DPF regenerations. On vcds calculated soot mass was always quite high measured 90% of the time is in the negatives which is impossible oil ash at 30g Checking live data showed a permanent 5.7V on the 5V sensor reference line. I got new dpf sensor.after unplugging lots of sensors i Swapped in a second-hand ECU, and the constant 5.7V remains, ruling out a blown internal ECU voltage regulator or bad remap / adblue delete If the reference pin at the back of the DPF pressure sensor is physically depinned/isolated, the operations of the pressure sensor return to normal functions (or pretty much normal functions). The Breakthrough: While troubleshooting, I moved/wiggled the main wiring harness inside the static plenum/cowl chamber (roughly 4 to 8 inches away from where it exits the ECU box). Moving this specific section instantly triggers clicking relays, flashes the glow plug light on the dash, and throws "overvoltage to glow plugs Current Conclusion: It appears a constant 12V supply wire (ignition feed or relay trigger) has chafed, melted, or cross-shorted directly into the 5V reference wire inside that wrapped plenum chamber bundle, back-feeding and overpowering the circuit. My Questions for the Forum: Has anyone seen this bundle short out inside the static plenum chamber before? Is there a sharp factory clip or edge inside there known for slicing the tape? Does anyone happen to know which specific 12V feed runs parallel to the 5V reference line in this exact stretch so I know what color wires to hunt for? Any wiring diagrams for a 2.0 tdi a4 190ps or past experiences with this specific bundle would be massively appreciated!

Not having confidence in main dealers is terrible, although I feel I was dealt with ok this time I would avoid main dealer like the plague..😅

Thanks for your input. The jobs will get done over the next 6 months before winter kicks in..I can do most of the jobs my self and I have a good mechanic I can rely on..👍

Audi main dealers do car health-checks as a matter of course when you're car is in. Think of it as cash extraction. Absolutely no reason to get them to touch the car. You're paying £200 an hour for a tech, not a mechanic, so seek out a VAG independent. For brakes, personally I rate Zimmermann. If there's a lip front and rear then replace discs and pads and do a brake bleed at the same time. Timing belt, I'm surprised Audi picked up on this as their service reception quote all kind of nonsense and VAG continually change interval times. Rule of thumb is usually 5 year or 60k miles on diesel cars up to 2 litres. Change the water-pump and auxilliary belts at the same time. No issue if the engine tray is scratched. If it's broken that's a different story. You can probably buy second hand part as new it will be expensive. Other than that - just service items such as diesel fuel filter every 20k miles. Rear spring mounts on Avants are known to corrode, so check out. Part is inexpensive, but you're probably looking at £300+ labour cost unless you're spanner handy.