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I have an A6 C6 2008 Allroad. Suddenly while driving I got a long bleep and the ESP, ABS and suspension pump lights came on. I was driving back from Spain at the time so couldn't do very much but it didn't seem to affect anything. The ESP off switch does nothing now. I don't know if ESP and/or ABS are working but the suspension pump is still working even though the light is on. The only thing I have noticed different is that when using cruise control it no longer automatically brakes to maintain the set speed. It accelerates fine but does not slow the car down on a hill. When you first start the car sometimes there is a delay of up to 10 minutes before the lights come on and sometimes they come on immediately. I have visually checked all the fuses for the ABS and ESP and they are fine. I can't find any other posts which mention these 3 lights. Has anyone any ideas? All help appreciated, thanks.

I took the car to a local mechanic. He was not concerned with what I thought might be a low voltage at the battery terminals whilst the engine was running as he said the car has smart charging which involves varying voltages. He ran a diagnostic and could see some warnings relating to something along the lines of an electronic turbo control unit (can't remember the exact name. I have the diagnostic report printout but not with me right now). He reckons it would be £300-£400 fitted incl VAT. He cleared the warning light from the dash and suggested I see how it goes before making a decision on what to do. Unfortunately I have been getting the drive system fault dash warnings since. But interestingly it has been manifesting a little differently. Previously the warning would tend to come on part way through a journey. But recently it has tended to be when turning on the engine ignition whilst the engine was already warm from a recent drive. I haven't yet had the warning whilst starting the ignition from cold.

I agree Richard and Clifford. Unfortunately in today’s society so many people rely upon technology that they can’t think outside the box. Take for instance, buying shopping. The shop assistant puts through your shopping, tells you a price, for example £14.89 and you hand them £20. But then you find the 89p in the back of your purse and offer that. Many people can’t figure out the change without the machine telling them! However, this luxury SUV has every warning lights and sensor you could imagine so you think it would flag something on the dash. I’ve asked for a breakdown of the work and what’s been eliminated so far. I will not be authorising stripping out carpets, seats and pipes until I’m satisfied that they have checked the common leak points and the self levelling system first. The car 5 is years old and 28k miles. I don’t drive like a racer and it’s been serviced and maintained every year. So I don’t imagine there is anything major and it’s purely down to wear and tear. I just hope that I get to the bottom of it, without having to shell out more money for the incompetence of the franchises IMG_0080.mov

Have some patience Guy. Your question was only posted 24 hours ago. If there is no response in a week it's safe to assume that nobody here knows or is willing to respond.

Anybody ?

Thank you Steve. I've got a thread up asking how to remove the spoiler, to get at the third brake light. Do you know of anyone who might know how?

Could be anything, turbo, fuel pump, etc. Scan with VCDS, that will reveal the error, if it’s existed before plus any other anomalies.

In respect of original question to Colin, If brand new hardware, especially Audi, then I would look at the brake lines and put on genuine VAG. In addition, use VCDS to open the electronic parking brake and close. They are a funny old set up, but that’s my experience. I’ve also seen rear brake pads sticking on the carrier. The carrier will corrode and the shims force the pads to tighten and they don’t move. You can use a metal file on the carrier and wire brush, if it’s original stock. Had a similar issue with new Zimmermann discs and pads in an Audi Allroad B8. I also stripped the EPB. On rebuilding, use a smear of ceramic brake grease on pad shoulders, on carrier shims and piston face.

how I said, after reversing polarity I change the alternator and I was luky and I change 4 or 5 fuses for MMI and something else , but afer that the car was start and drive very good, like before. My problem is now with this no start , no lights on dashbord and no power for OBD. Maybe with someone was in this problem.

Hi, New here and recently purchased a 2016 (66) A6. Is there anyway I can update any of the versions I have. I have attached a photo with them on. Or could I replace the unit with an aftermarket one that uses android auto etc, if this is the case what would people recommend and how easy is the process ?

Dumitru. Considering the potential for damage to delicate electronics by reversing the polarity it will be a miracle if the car can be restored without help from an auto electrician.

The fact that there is a dashboard warning means an electronic problem. Get it scanned as a first step to diagnosis.

I don’t recognise the code. When you say you fixed the mechatronics, what exactly did you do? A scan with VCDS will reveal more than generic OBD scan.

It's inevitable that the more complex one makes a machine, and modern cars are extremely complex, the more prone it is to failure unless built and maintained with levels of quality assurance that are unaffordable to individuals. That is why airliners cost many millions of pounds to buy and to maintain. There's a lot to be said for simplicity when it comes to reliability. Like Richard, I stopped going to Audi dealers for maintenance and repairs years ago because they were too expensive and too incompetant. Their electronic diagnoses are all very well when they work, but the technicians do not seem to have the practical experience and rational thought processes to fall back on when the computers don't work. Independant VAG specialists were my choice. They combined the intimate knowledge of a specialist with a level of service long lost by the large corporate dealers. If you can find one make him your best friend.

Just to add a thought; it sounds as though the mechanics are trying to find a leak. Just as in a house, the 'pipework' almost never gives trouble because there is no wear or movement. If it does owing to poor fitment or a manufacturing fault, it's usually very early on its life. (The brake fluid pipes on my 45yr old TR7 are original). Just make sure the mechanics have thoroughly eliminated a leak at the strut airbag, especially its top O ring. You cannot detect this unless you remove the rubber bits under the bonnet on top of the strut as described in my long post above, pour in Fairy Liquid water and look for bubbles. Pointless to examine the pipes unless this has been done and a strut leak confidently eliminated.

Just bought an A4 35TFSI after getting fed up with replacing sensors on my Gen10 Civic. Brilliant car, love it. Certainly a bit firmer than my Civic and its my first Automatic car. Love the fact that the Handbrake comes off automatically, compared to having to do it every time with the Civic, and the brake hold doesn't reset to "Off" too. Anyone know what is the Colour name/code? Think i'm going to go down the remap route. Anyone have suggestions for this in Scotland? Anyway nice to see an active forum, as those facebook pages are terrible.

Unfortunately this is a bit of a laborious fix. Water can only gain access through the light fixings, rear washer pipe connection, wiper aperture, or electrics grommet near the hinge. Others have potentially fixed by stripping out and reinstalling, possibly even use a little mastic on reinstalling. I’ve used Teroson MS930 made by Henkel before on a leaking panoramic which I can recommend. Alcohol wipe first. Before you get to that stage, interior trim out and run constant supply of water over tailgate to observe. You’ll need a decent light source.

You’re in a bit of a predicament Nicola. The trouble with main franchise dealers, and this isn’t exclusive to Audi, is that their technicians aren’t experienced enough. As mentioned earlier, if anything like BMW, then they will log onto a computer terminal and follow as prescribed route to fix and don’t use old fashioned intuition. That’s fine if they actually fix it, but as a customer you take the hit with exorbitant labour and parts. Personally, I’d take the car back from Audi dealer and continue with your route to Audi UK to see if they can address it. This is a luxury SUV, 5 years old, and shouldn’t have something that’s unfixable. There must be some sort of monitoring system for air suspension that provides live data. The fact the car self levels on start up tells you the compressor is doing its job. I’d want all the self levelling height sensors checked. That should have been done as a matter of course, and with live feed to VCDS to see functionality. Airbags, as mentioned by John, inspected properly. Whether it’s the airbag, ‘o’ ring or line feed union. Audi won’t repair, I will tell you that now. If there’s a fault then they’ll opt to replace. The air lines traced to see if there’s a break along the length of the car from the compressor. That’s why they want the seats out. I think at that point, then this repair should be goodwill, as stripping out interiors is time intensive. I gave up on main dealers years ago and do my own work. VCDS is useful, but Audi will use systems such as ODIS with component security protection which is dealer level software that your average mechanic won’t have access to. On the latest Golf MK8, you can’t even change the rear pads without ODIS is my understanding. Anyway I hope you get a resolution to this.

Hi there. Have you managed to resolve this issue at the service repair shop? Have observed the same issue on my Avant B9.5 that water somehow manages to get inside the boot lid (inside the trunk everything is dry). Have popped out one of those rubbery bungs and I can observe brownish water coming out of it after pressure washing the car.

Clifford, I tried to avoid going to the dealership. However, as the issue has been ongoing for so long without a resolution. I decided to contact Audi UK as it makes me think it could be a manufacturing fault. Audi UK informed me they wouldn’t look into it until I got one of their Audi technicians to investigate. So I’ve been I touch with Audi again and I’ve let them know their ‘technicians’ are investigating the problem but do they think it’s fair or reasonable to expect a customer to keep paying thousands of pounds just for the technician to say ‘I think it could be’ at this rate I’ll be selling my house to pay for the repair!

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Thanks John. I’m no mechanic but I feel like I’ve looked at the components that much and read what checks are suggested that I could fix it myself 😂 however, when they say the master mechanics are on the job you would expect them to carry out these checks as Part of the elimination process. I have asked for a detailed report of what the master mechanic has worked on so far. Surely, a master doesn’t need 4 hours to identify the problem. Now they are asking me to approve another 2 hours and they want to strip out my carpets, seats and check the rest of pipes. I honestly can’t believe this issue has been ongoing since January and not one garage can’t get to the bottom of it.

Thanks man, for sure! I think that can be the injectors... the glow plugs looks fine to me. Anyway, we can put some new glow plugs and some new injectors seals just to be careful and peaceful, no probs: I want to use this car for (minimum) 5-7 years before decommisioning, so it has to be perfect! Any advices/hints for the "BDH" engine code? Thanks! P.s. can I ask here regarding the bluetooth dongle or is it better to create a new thread? Thanks!

Hi all, i have a problem with my 2011 Audi a5 2.0 tfsi quattro auto. Engine will not rev as normal. After losing throttle response i managed to limp car home. It pulses with power. Start engine. Put foot on the throttle could be right down. And car just revs to 2000 revs then drops to around 1200 revs then back to 2000 and so on. Not brings up any codes. On dash says stabilisation fault. Any ideas appreciated. Thanks

I suspect that it may be caused by the seal inside the caliper. The rear calipers are made differently than the front ones. I couldn't do it and when I took it apart and wanted to put it back together, the seal is supposed to be put inside the caliper first and then the roller is supposed to be put there, but the seal is like it's too narrow and the roller doesn't have the clearance it should have so it can't pull in that much. I read on one forum that a guy had a problem with it that it was doing exactly this to him and he replaced about 10 repair kits on the calipers and then it stopped working. Therefore, I assume that it will probably be the seal in the caliper, since I had a really hard time pushing the roller through the seal and I had to exert more force to push the roller in (I mean before disassembling but also after reassembling), for comparison, when I disassembled the front and repaired it, I had to exert significantly less force to push the roller in (after reassembling the caliper).