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19th May 2024 We have in the last few months been receiving spam posts on the community. These were not new members, but compromised accounts from members accounts that were set up in the past. However, these were not compromised by our security but from email and password lists bought by spammers to access various accounts across the internet. This is mainly due to users using the same email and password throughout all of their accounts they have. So to iterate that the club has not been compromised / hacked. I have seen this on many forums, blogs, email accounts etc. This even happens on login accounts for companies such as Subway, Costa, Starbucks etc. as well. Many companies now require 2 factor authentication these days to get round this issue. So we have decided to request everyone with accounts that have not logged in for more than 180 days to reset their password. We have not done it for recent regular members yet, however, we will be requiring 2 factor authentication with a question to log in so we can secure your account from spammers posting junk on your behalf. All this is done as a precaution and to prevent annoyance to the community, and of course your security. Thanks

Hi everyone, I own Audi Q8 2018 and have an issue with air coming in the front of the vehicle when AC is on. As soon as i stopped the A/C the air starts coming from the front too. The A/C is working fine but the air is blowing only from the rear. Has anyone experienced this ? Thanks

Hi Club Members, I am new to the club having just bought my first Audi. Its a 2013 S7 with full service history including its original bill of sale from Audi in Newbury, and its finished in ice (I think I've got that right) silver with a black interior. It has a sunroof and I am chuffed with it so far. I am living in Swansea and really don't know where to have it serviced, although my preference is to maintain its main dealer service history which has been in Newbury and Reading - bit of a trip for servicing, although I would probably enjoy the journey!!. I have the same issue with a Mercedes SL which I have had since 2021, although I have decided to take that to the Mercedes specialist in Bridgend about 30 miles from me. If anyone knows and could recommend any Audi trustworthy independent specialists or main dealers, please let me know. I have attached a couple of pici's for you to see the car. I would like to get some 21"x 9J alloys for it and have been looking on e-bay for style options, but haven't seen any yet. I do quite like the Audi Rotor wheel in the grey/silver, but I also like an Audi 15 spoke 19" x 8.5J wheel (part number 8TO-071-499-1ZL in silver) which is being advertised as fitting the A5 model, however its size and offset (ET33) suggests to me that it would also fit the S7? Anyway, enough blurb from me and I'll let you know how I get on. Many thanks Chris

Loos great 👍 🙂

I thought sat nabs had to be added by dealer only?

Only one way to find out I guess.

CAB Matty - as soon as possible.

Thanks Tony, There’s an awful lot of information there that we don’t need, but…. You bought the latest battery because it was the cheapest you could get at the time-? Did you get it on-line or locally. It’s likely the battery should have been coded to the car, but not absolutely certain of that for your age car. Hopefully we will get some more experienced opinion on that. If it does need coding, then failure to code it can ( I believe) lead to over- charging, since the car will treat it as if it’s still the old one. Over charging can result in toasting the battery. Pulling terminals off should be totally unnecessary and should not be done. Let us know how you get on Tony, and give us an answer as to why you bought the brand you have now. Good batteries are an investment.

Right I am going try and write this again, the first session disappeared when I tried to “copy and paste” some text, so this time I writing it all in a word document. What I previously wrote was something like this. My vehicle was purchased 16th January 2020 I think it only fair I give you a full rundown of what I have done and had done to the car up to date, what will be missing are the dates, sorry. These are not in any order but just as I remembered them New battery (1) New driver’s door lock Bonnet resprayed ( I know it has nothing to do with starting or electrical problems ) Replaced the wiring harness driver’s door New key and chip programmed at my home Installed LED lighting all round (no capacitor’s needed) Removed Audi Chorus New clutch with “Dual mass flywheel” New battery (2) which was returned due to buckled plates New battery(3) purchased 15th January 2024 The data for this battery is 72Ah 650CCA which is way more than advertised. I had been removing the positive lead when new battery (2) was on the car, I don’t do it now, BUT I still get the crackle when I am putting on either negative or positive lead. As the text from Cliff, “PS. Don't forget to have the new battery coded to the car or it won't work,” On the internet [www.htsaves.com ] I find the following text How Long Does it Take to Leave the Battery Disconnected to Reset the Car’s Computer? To reset your car’s computer, you should disconnect the battery and allow time for the residual energy in the electrical circuits to dissipate completely. Typically, this process can take anywhere from 15 minutes to an hour. This ensures that all the stored electricity is cleared out of the system. Old battery (2) off new battery (3) on changeover was minutes nowhere near 15 minutes, the battery ( 3) had already been charged up awaiting my arrival. I have just had a thought with battery (2) it was left off overnight and sometimes more than a day But when I reconnected the battery I got the crackle but the engine would start and run without a problem. With battery (3) I do not disconnect either lead, I’ll just jump in the car go to the roundabout and back total maybe 2 miles, pull it up onto the drive switch off and go inside. I am now booked in @ Halfords for a “battery efficiency” check 09:30 Monday morning. I will appraise you of the results and I will upload any documentation should I get it. Till tomorrow then Tony P.S I know that I have included certain items that are not electrical related

I have had my Q5 3L diesel for over 10 years now, and it is approaching 200,000 miles (320,000 km currently). I just had a gearbox failure which thankfully was just a broken fluid pipe and a replacement/ fluid change fixed the problem. I also have spluttering at idle, and when I just start moving, I am thinking this could be the fuel injectors. I have never used the additive. It is worth trying it, does it work? I have been looking at a replacement Q5, but all the diesel and even the most of the petrols seems to be slower than my current car - my car has 240BHP/ 500 torque and does 0-60 in 6.4s. Only the top of the range Q5 50 TDI manages this now!

First time i took it in they said mechanic said nothing wrong with it second time they said I put petrol in it 3 time one guy said its a fuel starvation problem but the manager said noting wrong with it so stuck what to do there just ignoring the issue

here we go, just one side

afternoon all, so i wanted to try the google maps on my s1 mmi i get the error as per pic , so after a quick youtube look i went into the green menu, removed the cache, rebooted the MMI and tried again and it stays for about 5 mins on loading ( please wait ) and then goes back to the error Do i need to drive about? for it to start loading? It connected to my phone so must get data from somewhere ideas?

Yeah that's why I'm thinking mine can fit as mines a Quattro A3

Can't speak for the A3 but I know on the A6 C5 the exhaust was different depending on if you had quattro or not. The S3 will have quattro

I have read some articles and they mention it's fine as long as it keeps the diesel Cat. The reason for this exhaust is because I want a Quad exit exhaust and this seems cheapest.

Hey did you get this sorted? If not go to ISpeed and find Audi then find the correct model and door.

I have also read that an S3 exhaust would fit my car as it's the same piping for the most part. Anyone know more about this and if it'd be ok fitting a petrol exhaust to diesel engine? Pretty sure that parts fine if it's from the cat back

Ok thank you will have a look.

I heard it hard to do the discs and pads if I’m honest, it’s just I haven’t done them before and I’ve seen you need an odb11 reader for the rear. I’ll have a look at parts in motion 🙂 thank you very much Gareth

Hello Richard, Can we take it you aren’t including discs and pads in your quest to find secondhand parts? Worth trying Parts in Motion for these - there are many more on-line factors, but I’ve always had good service at competitive prices from this company. Kind regards, Gareth.

Or indeed a broken-near-end spring, which maybe difficult to see without close examination. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tony, With any persisting electrical issue, it’s always worth getting the battery efficiency measured to establish whether it’s a contributory cause or not. Perhaps you could let us know whether you acquired the car with that battery, or if you bought it during your (how long?) ownership. Way forward:- take the car to an Halfords store and ask them to check the battery’s efficiency for you. Get the alternator output checked at the same time. If the battery is found to be sub standard, you may want to come back to us, before you buy a replacement from Halfords. My take on it, for what it’s worth:- It wouldn’t surprise me that the battery you have is ‘reconditioned reject’ bought because it was cheap. Please come back with the outcome - as Cliff says.

Sounds like a suspension top mount bearing I had the same on my A2.