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Will keep you posted as mine is still at the early stages of reset and adaption too ........ it may well glitch out on me as yet !

I need to replace both left side upper dash AC vents. Don’t know how to get them out. Help plz?

Hello Alex. I believe so. If you enter your registration number into on-line factor sites such as Parts in Motion, GSF etc. and search ‘ bake pad warning sensor’ then you should get confirmation via. the part being listed. Are you depending on such sensors to alert you to the need to renew the pads Alex? If so, not good practice. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Bruno, Apologies, I don’t know if it is possible to modify the oil suction pipe to take a conventional dipstick, but hopefully someone will come along on here to help you with this. Re. Oil consumption:- I can see your Q5 is 2023, and so it can be expected that it’s early oil consumption will be higher than it will be when it has some mileage under its belt. To give you a better idea, we would need to know what mileage the vehicle has now covered, how much oil has it consumed during that mileage - assuming it hasn’t yet had its first oil change. Perhaps you can comeback to us on these points. Kind regards, Gareth.

Yup - that is a constant thread when the LED discussions come up; some cars don't "mind" them. I will start with the ONB 200 and report back.

Hi Q5 has any one purchased a oil dipstick ? 60k and have to buy oil dipstick to check manually yes can be done via mmi but there nothing like being able to carry out physicaL Any idea on the actual oil consumption per 1000 miles ? THANKS

I have a 2010 a6 sline le mans, when I press the button to open the glove box I can here the mechanism working but the compartment doesn't open has anyone any ideas

An alternative to washing up liquid could be ATF (auto transmission fluid). Sorry, I’ll bow to Steve’s three sizes. I know there’s a choice of two on the back, because it cost me to have bought the wrong size in the first place! Hope all goes well with it Miley. Kind regards, Gareth.

‘Trading Standards are dealing with it now’. Possibly pessimistic, but they will take all the details, give you a case number, and you probably won’t hear anything more. Meanwhile, your time limit for rejecting the car could well be exceeded. Would I depend on TS actually doing anything to aid your case?? No I wouldn’t.

Hi, looking for some help regarding my S6 5.2 v10, been in the garage since January with epc and esp light on, car runs rough and won't go by 4k rpm, I've replaced battery, Alternator, long cable from engine bay to control module, thermostat, coils, spark plugs throttle bodies, removed Inlet manifold (all flaps intact and working as should), carbon cleaned whilst off, rebuilt it all then changed both maf sensors and still it runs like a burst a**e. The car ran great up until January however every so often these lights would come on when cold starting, they would go off after a couple of attempts at starting whilst holding throttle down and turning key off and back on mid rev, makes no sense but it worked. The car has had a replacement engine (40k miles on it), it's been decatted with powerflow exhaust, 2x ramair cone filters, stage 2 remap. Really struggling to get to the bottom of this issue so if anyone has any advice I would really appreciate it, thanks in advance

Hi know I've gt a written report to go with it now thanks trading standards are dealing with it now

I've managed to find some new top halves. So I'll have another go at it when they arrive. Appreciate everyone's input.

Hi if you take the bar off and run the holes through with an oversize drill bit the two parts should come apart as the top and bottom plates are held together around the bolt holes, but before doing this measure the roll bar itself with a vernier caliper to see which size bush you need as there are three different sizes, also pay attention to the other shape of the new bush so its the same, they are going to be murder to fit but do not lubricate the inner part of the bush and use washing up liquid on the outer part, once on the bar the new bushes can be coaxed into the upper part of the metal mounting using a piece of wood either side and a large G clamp this should get it far enough in so when you put the base plate on bolting it up should pull it in the rest of the way, unless you have the facilities to grind off the old captive nuts you will need longer bolts and new nuts. Steve.

What I think Matty, is just the same - get yourself to the CAB, as I keep saying and now even boring myself. The clock is ticking!

My fan keeps coming on too, even a 10 minute drive can put the fan on for 5 minutes or so, doesn't do it everytime though

Many thanks Steve for clarifying this for the benefit of others. Hello Tony, I’m not sure what you now want to believe, but you have a battery of dubious origins, and I believe until you replace it with a reputable branded one, and get it coded to the car, you stand little chance of getting anywhere with this, but it must be your choice. From my side, and apologies if this appears critical, but you seem to be bombarding us with unnecessary detail. Anyway, back to your battery and charging check:- A couple of observations - the charging voltage measured at 13.8v at best, is below par, and I would be expecting around 14.5 volts. I’m not sure what he told you about CCA measurements, but surely Cold Cranking Current would be measured in what it is - amps. not volts. If you are going to decide on fitting a reputable branded battery, you won’t go far wrong with a correct-for-car Exide from Tayna Batteries. Give them your reg. no., and they will advise on the correct one. You will need to further investigate the alternator output.

I've had my car in an audi garage today they say it's been remapped and the exhaust front flexi is blowing which part of the dpf what do you thinknof that everyone thanks

Hi yes it will remove the light as the map fools it into thinking the adblu tank is always full, the cars will run perfectly well without it just don't get talked into having the EGR and DPF deleted at the same time as that will definitely cause problems, have you tried the tank level reset as this can be done with VCDS or OBD Eleven and often sorts the problem. Steve.

Hi Cliff how long has this been under discussion and for the benefit of anyone who wants to know, since 2007 most of the major manufacturers installed some sort of battery energy monitor, Fords use a battery counter system as do Vauxhall, Audi and Mercedes use a monitor system which is attached to the earth lead, both systems need reseting when a new battery is installed this informs the ECU and the Alternator to learn new values about charging, what is painfully clear having studied the brand of this battery it comes from no definitive source, even the company website only mentions the batteries are developed by them and their partners who are their partners are is anyones guess, basically its a cheap range of European parts that are being flooded in from Europe a bit like the NAPA parts from America, from what I can gather EUROREPAR have been going for twenty years if you lodge that against Bosch and Yuasa who have well over a Hundred years between them you can see where your extra money goes, I have recently had to change the battery on my wife's Alfa which does about fifteen hundred miles a year the last Yuasa unit has lasted five years so I bought a new Yuasa which has a four year guarantee, so yes you are right the battery probably is defective. Steve.

Thanks for a quick reply Steve - i had heard of this but wasn't sure on the effect of it and whether or not it would flag up in future diagnosis', also would that then also remove the fault warning and engine light?

With any odd electrical gremlins I look at the battery as the first port of call. As a failing battery can cause the electrical systems to play up.

Hi Dan the cheapest option is to have a remap that ksps out the adblue system. That way you won't have a problem with the system again. The remap should cost between £200-500

I think if you fit lled ones you'll.enf up throwing up a bulb out warning as LEDs draw less power than normal bulbs.

Hi there, I'm heading overseas and now selling my Black 2014 Q5 . Automatic. S line Plus . 2.0 Diesel. 92,500 miles. 2 private owners. I purchased last August and previous owner before the dealer had it since new. I've only done 4k miles in it. This car is in very good condition for its age. Some scratches on the wheels and small 10cm dent in the right rear quarter panel. Tyres are getting low. Drives well and an Independent Audi mechanic said its a very good example. Looking for £10,800 - make me an offer. Contact me for viewing/questions. Cheers. IMG_4269.HEIC IMG_4273.HEIC IMG_4270.HEIC IMG_4272.HEIC IMG_4274.HEIC

Believe what you want Tony, but I can assure you that coding is a neccesity for things other than stop/start. The car's electronics are sensitive and require a stable power supply from a battery with no internal faults in order to function properly. I wish you luck with your problem, but it seems I am wasting my time trying to convince you so I am withdrawing from this discussion.