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Fault code p0102 and P0104 for MAF. Changed MAF Sensor twice and issue remains. Is there a second air temp sensor. Help please.

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8 hours ago, DonG59 said:

Fault code p0102 and P0104 for MAF. Changed MAF Sensor twice and issue remains. Is there a second air temp sensor. Help please.

Hi this sounds a bit far fetched, but the two code given are for MAF and MAP Sensors from experience I have found its the MAP that is the problem its information is not correlating with the information given to the ECU by the MAF sensor I.E. MAF equals air pressure and ambient temperature of the air going into the engine,

MAP equals the air pressure and ambient temperature of the air taken in when it reaches the inlet manifold if these figures do not agree closely it will throw up high readings on the MAF as this is reading correctly but the MAP is probably full of grunge and cant read the MAF readings correctly so it sends a message to the ECU telling it that the MAF readings are implausible therefore it must be defective.

Regards Steve.

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17 hours ago, DonG59 said:

Thanks Steve for your info, greatly appreciated. Where do I find the MAP Sensor?

Hi sorry for the late reply, the MAP is on the right hand rear of the engine it is quite easy to spot as it sits up on its own little bracket with a rubber pipe running up to it, your car has the same engine as mine so have a look on eBay for Audi part no 04L 906 051, that will give you an idea what to look for in the engine bay and if the part numbers match happy days.

Steve.  PS right hand rear when standing at front of car.

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Hi Steve, thanks for the advice and info. Parts ordered and on their way. Will let you know result. TVM.

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Hi, no worries but once you have fitted the new MAP I would recommend doing the relearn on the MAF so they get to know each other again, wish you luck and success.

Steve.

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Hi Steve. Part came, fitted and cleared all the codes. Car felt much smoother. Ran it for about 100 miles then faults came back. This time for MAF DPF and EGR. Do you think it's a possibility other sensors are also faulty?

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6 hours ago, DonG59 said:

Hi Steve. Part came, fitted and cleared all the codes. Car felt much smoother. Ran it for about 100 miles then faults came back. This time for MAF DPF and EGR. Do you think it's a possibility other sensors are also faulty?

Hi Don if you can give me your milage and the codes that came up this time, I suspect that where the MAP/MAF situation was ongoing the car probably needed a regeneration which would be declined as the MAP/MAF not communicating would be classed as a major fault so the whole lot goes into default until the problem is cured I personally would give the car a forced regeneration after first clearing the codes [otherwise it won't do it] and see what occurs after that, did you do the adaption of the new MAF, I don't know what diagnostics platform you are using so am flying a bit blind.

Regards Steve.

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Hi Steve, codes were the same P0102 and P0104. YesbI think it's best give it a forced regeneration as it's always coming up.

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19 hours ago, DonG59 said:

Hi Steve, codes were the same P0102 and P0104. YesbI think it's best give it a forced regeneration as it's always coming up.

Hi Don, also check that the rubber hose between the MAP and the manifold is not blocked as I am informed that it is wise to change the hose with the MAP I will try and get you the part number for the hose.

Steve.

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22 hours ago, DonG59 said:

Thanks Steve, that'll be great. 

Hi Don, I had a look on my system but dear Audi only list the sensor as one part which includes the bracket and the pipe they don't list them separately, the pipe only has clips on either end so logic says measure the inside diameter of the pipe and if need be replace it with the same gauge silicon pipe, thats what I did on the boost sensor pipes on my last Ford, the only place you could get the pipes from was Ford for £104.00 the pair so I used aftermarket silicon pipe £13.00 they outlasted my ownership of the car and 160,000 miles.

Steve.

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Hi Steve, we have success at last. After changing that sensor car was ok for a bit then I got it remapped. However issue came back and the dpf was a common factor. So I've put dpf, egr and injector cleaner and car is now running great. 

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Hi Don I am really pleased for you with a bit of persistence and using the right equipment you have saved yourself ££££££ and not had the discomfort of listening to the teeth sucking build up of a dealership technician winding the bill up.

It makes me laugh when I am told that diagnostics can be the route to buying unnecessary parts, not if you know A how it works B why it works in this case you removed the dodgy sensors which dug up the root cause the DPF, I can thoroughly recommend an additive to use every fill up which not only gives better MPG and power, its called Hydra Maximus I get through about a litre every two months but as a private car owner one litre will probably last a year or so, it keeps everything clean and makes the soot particles smaller therefore less regeneration. Keep up the good work and save yourself money these vehicles are the same as any other diesel but much better built.

Steve.

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Hi Steve, yes all good now and thanks for the heads up, will definitely be getting the Hydra Maximus, well tell you the truth, I've just ordered some. In the past I've always used Forte, but willing to try and improve. What's your thoughts on EGR blanking plates, lots of pros and cons. Don

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17 minutes ago, DonG59 said:

Hi Steve, yes all good now and thanks for the heads up, will definitely be getting the Hydra Maximus, well tell you the truth, I've just ordered some. In the past I've always used Forte, but willing to try and improve. What's your thoughts on EGR blanking plates, lots of pros and cons. Don

Hi Don to be totally honest if it was an old Euro4 engine I would say buy a blanking plate but with the amount of gas flow monitoring going on with the system on the Euro6 engines you may well end up with lots of lights up, the VAG replacement valves are not that pricey compared with most other car manufacturers such as Ford or Vauxhall, last one I bought for my old Ford was £450.00 and that was cheap compared with the dealer price.

Yes they are a pain but when you consider the valve is only open a fraction when going slowly around town and shut when accelerating and cruising at speed you wonder what the point actually is, the biggest villain is the crank case ventilation as this feeds engine oil vapour into the system which when it mixes with the gas from the EGR forms that black tar like crud that blocks everything up, worse still because of direct injection the crud sticks on the back of the valves where as the old system injecting via the inlet manifold would always keep the inlet valves cleaner as they were always in a cloud of hot diesel vapour.

Steve.

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Thanks Steve, that's given me more to think about. Car still going great and running real smooth. Just waiting for the Hydra to come.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Steve, thanks for your help on previous issue. Can I please hug you some more. What's your knowledge like on Aux Transmission Fluid Pump Motor Control Module. I've resetted the gearbox and car runs fine for couple hundred miles or so then malfunction comes back. Is it a module in fusebox or something on the gearbox. Thanks in advance. Don

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17 hours ago, DonG59 said:

Hi Steve, thanks for your help on previous issue. Can I please hug you some more. What's your knowledge like on Aux Transmission Fluid Pump Motor Control Module. I've resetted the gearbox and car runs fine for couple hundred miles or so then malfunction comes back. Is it a module in fusebox or something on the gearbox. Thanks in advance. Don

Hi Don my knowledge of DSG/Mechatronic boxes is pretty limited but if you can bear with me and give me the fault code for your problem I will do some digging amongst the finer brains I have access to, but if we start with the basics like when was the box last serviced, have you checked all wiring connections to the box for corrosion as in my experience I would guess its intermittent nature would suggest its something as simple as bad gear oil or corrosion otherwise it would be an embedded fault.

Steve.

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Hi Don I think I may have found it but can you describe the symptoms that go with the fault and if I am right its a module in the car of which I have yet to find where its hidden.

Steve.

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Hi Steve, when it happens, notice comes up saying, gearbox malfunction, shift lever to P, and there is no drive. Car has done 106k, I've had it a year and and no gearbox service as yet. I thought it was a lifetime oil, or am I just hoping 🙂. As you suggest, gearbox oil change and service maybe the best starting point.

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4 minutes ago, DonG59 said:

Hi Steve, when it happens, notice comes up saying, gearbox malfunction, shift lever to P, and there is no drive. Car has done 106k, I've had it a year and and no gearbox service as yet. I thought it was a lifetime oil, or am I just hoping 🙂. As you suggest, gearbox oil change and service maybe the best starting point.

Hi Don no such thing as lifetime oil they only made a limited number of sealed for life boxes which their definition is 100k game over, having done a bit of research it looks as if it could be the ECU on the box which looks like it mounts on the side of the box and has a big fat wiring connector, apparently these frequently go up the wall [starts slowly and gets worse] they are a fortune to buy from everybody friend but there is a place that repairs your unit for £155 with a two day turn round and its plug in and play.

Steve. 

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Hi Don judging by the symptoms you describe it fits the criteria for what you have try phoning these guys and have word Control Units in Devon your problem is definitely on their list and the advice is friendly and free, contact details: 01884798090/07706445537, they may well be able to tell you where the unit is located.

Steve

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