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The Project


AnIdiotAboard
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And so it will begin, first and foremost the clue is in the name folks.

 

So i've picked up a mapped A3 2006 2.0 Tdi, "APARANTLY" producing 190 Bhp and as near as makes no difference 400 Nm.

 

I picked the car up for scrap, a friend had it pending passing a driving test, when he failed for the millionth time, he just wanted rid, and got on a push bike, cars stood for 18 months or so (well less than 1000 miles between last 3 MOT's) and as a project it does have some faults and rattles im guessing you guys can answer for me, as i said the cars a project i need something to do with my weekends afterall.

 

So the problems: If you have any solutions to them feel free to chip in.

 

  • Over boosting to 2 bar 31.7 PSI, in second and third, you stamp on the gas, and it just launches, but the boost climbs to just over 2 bar, before dropping back to 1.5 where its pritty solid, i presume this would be normal behavor thanks to its map?
  • Low RPM Whine, 100% sure its not the flywheel, it had a new clutch and flywheel 5 months ago, it has that kinda sound though, might just been turbo at low RPM turbo has done like 1000 miles and is brand new was installed with the map
  • Passenger window only, will not rise from drivers side switch
  • Rear child locks seemingly don't work
  • Bonnet catch refuses to latch, unless you place a packet of rizzla in there and slam it that is
  • Pulls right under harsh acceleration / big power climbs (i like in a valey, the only way out is up, 1 mile long road, you rise about 500 feet, if i maintain the speed but with say 3000rpm on the clock it pulls right, and in second and 3rd gears. Torque steer? 
  • Suspect hand break on one side is binding up, 1 disk is scored to absolute snot, and there Bembo's so not really sure what that about, ive never scored breaks like this in 20 years
  • Traction control is seeminly useless, 2nd 3rd and 4th will all produce wheel spin under harsh acceleration, normal for a 2.0 TDi? or possible TC Failure?
  • Driver information display, so the warning lights in it, they all work, but it dont light up and the bottom half is completely missing, i seem to be under impression i should have some data like MPG there etc, possible fuse? Knackered module?

So theres all the problems, now to quell some other questions comming.


Car has 182k on the clock, a FULL Audi service history every 9000 miles, a major service was done at 172k including turbo, clutch flywheel, HP Pump lift pump, timing belt and water pump.

Beside the above issues and a bad drivers door (corroded seals) shes been a pleasure, she drives and pulls cleanly, and when you do poke it, you just ride that huge tourque curve.

Hoping i can fix all the issues relatively cheaply, it is an 18 year old car after all, and possibly move her along, sorry Audi but im a Ford Diesel man 🙂

 

Thanks all, and i look forward to getting to know some of you

 

Cheers

The Idiot Aboard

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Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 

Could the whine be the turbo? 

I would look at changing the drivers door electric window switch. 

Bonnet catch should just need to be adjusted. Or might need replacing. 

The LCD screen area known to fail, this could be the reason you're not seeing mpg etc. They can be replaced for around £250. 

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Could it be turbo, well i guess so, just because i have papers here to say its new dont make it so, i had some pipes off, theres no end float to note (yeah i know turbo needs to come out to check) and spins freely, blades themselves feel fairly smooth, no nicks or anything, but it is only at low RPM, as soon as you get over like 1100 rpm, its gone.

 

WIndow switch in door, is there an wiring diagram for that? Some simple testing with jumpers? i got VAG Cable and software coming, wont be here till Monday though, but i should be able to confirm the switch with nothing more than jumper and a multi meter. At least i hope.

 

Bonnet catch wont adjust UP anymore, its up as high as it will come, never really noticed before but do they wear out aswell? could it be theres enough wear on the eye to warrent replacement? Scrap yard? New.

 

The LCD is good news, i would like that to work, i might pull that out and have a look myself (as an electrical engineer right up my ally)

 

Thanks for the inputs, one more question for folks if at all possible, best places for Audi Parts be it new, referb, recon or second hand.

 

 

Thanks folks and thank you Steve Q for youre input.

 

I might try get some audio of the whine at low RPM im willing to bet someone will hear it and go aha i know what that is hehe

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Some of these cheap turbos are known to last no more than a year. 

I'm finding getting some new genuine parts is becoming hard to come by especially some Interior trim and mechanical components 

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15 hours ago, Steve Q said:

Some of these cheap turbos are known to last no more than a year. 

I'm finding getting some new genuine parts is becoming hard to come by especially some Interior trim and mechanical components 

Had turbo off found cause of whine, no end float but exhaust side is pitted to buggery and inlet side has some nasty nasty knicks in the blades, turbo condemned and on order, along with intercooler and rest of inlet site (FULL OF OIL, cause to be investigated but we all know its shaft seals leaking, all on order total damage £600 in parts no labor costs (my time to waste)

Windows fixed, broken wire on switch probably poor solder joints but all fixed none the less no parts needed.

Rear child locks and door locks replaced - Scrap yard £50 for pair.

Bonnet Catch - BIG HAMMER and BAR a few smacks followed by some prying and now she drops and locks.

Service break binding, replaced cables and lubricated all involved parts, new rear Brembo disks and pads, callipers serviced along the way.

 

Currently working on the dash, lots of missing signals to console, the display isnt gone, inject 12volts it all lights up, so im yet to trace the cause will report back when i work out what signals are missing or are partial (This is gonna be a fuse somewhere i think)

Not sure if it has a Gearbox computer yet but scan tool fails to locate or communicate with it (Possible cause of missing signals to dash, will update with more another day

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Can anyone recommend a good set of tyres for her?

I know its subjective, but i aint purchased tyres in years, and black circles has give me a headache. I got a budget of £500 (Not to include a spare, it actually brand new], and my PRIMARY concern is wet road performance, i live in the bottom of a valley where its invariably damp and wet, dont mind if there a bit noisy thats what the radio is for. 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update Time. Shes all back together took her on a drive all went well till it didnt, no codes set.

 

So why i had it apart we did a few other bits, oil and water pumps cos why not im in here, new timing kit, new injector seals etc etc, spent a little over £1200.

 

Anyways, driving along, and i felt the power just go, cant explain it,, but the car was gutless like totally gutless, a quick flick of the ignition, normal service resumed.

Following day under hard breaking i notice the pedal lost its feel, it worked as it should it was just hard no feel like before 2 mins later, powers gone, no boost, but oddly manifold pressure increased according to the data logger at the time the "fault" happened again no codes.

Again today, twice its done it, ignition flicks on the move reset it and all is well no drama, but again the breaks were hard before the fault....

Now im guessing this isnt a boost problem, i dont believe its a map sensor or anything like that, as soon as it resets, it pulls like a freight train again, im thinking this is vacume side, somewhere, anyone care to enlighten me on likely suspects and any why im in there parts. Ive set the total budget for this at £3000, im at £1200 with £600 to spend on rubber.

 

Cheer

 

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