Leaderboard

You might find that paying someone to helicoil and fit a new sump plug might not be much more or less money than changing the sump itself. A second hand sump will be the cheapest option, I bet you could get one for £25 from a breakers. However, sump removal is not always that straight forward. There are many cars that require a lot of things taken off to allow the sump to come away from the block. Bare that in mind, it might not be a driveway DIY thing. Has anyone got experience with sump removal while engine is in situ? Out of interest, not everyone knows but you should really always have a new sump plug each time you have the oil changed, the compression washer is the reason why. However, I generally change one every 3 oil changes. To avoid the weeping of oil and the net result of overtightening, as has happened here.

This is what Audi say on their website The start-stop system automatically switches off the engine when the car is moving at a low speed or is stopped, for example at traffic lights, and starts it automatically when the speed increases or the journey continues As the car is braking to a standstill, the system switches off the engine and signals this via a symbol on the dashboard. When you release the brake pedal to continue on your journey, the engine starts and the symbol on the dashboard is removed.

For me if the system is working normally then it clearly is daft! For Audi to tell you not to use start stop defeats the point of trying to be more eco friendly. If you use dash cams it might be worth you recording so that you have evidence of the issue. Dont worry about writing a long message, as it is clearly worrying you. I'm wondering though if your car were manual whether this issue would be there at all? At which point it could be the s tronic box not liking gen 2 start stop. If this is the case then potentially the issue may not just be related to the Q3. It might be worth you researching these issues in similar models. Or check what recalls Audi have had this yeat. Please keep us posted :) Cheers Steve

The centre console is different too.

They want 450 excess spoke to them so gonna do it myself no hassle

Oh dont worry my a6 is being rebuilt, love the car too much!

I know what your going through. I'm in the same boat with my a6 currently. It is both frustrating and upsetting! I can't say too much on mine currently due to the ongoing sarga but once it's done I'll do a whole topic of my story. Needless to say it's caused chaos ATM for me. So I can fully sympathise with you. Let's hope it gets sorted quickly Cheers Steve

I'd always want a spare wheel as let's face it, if you buckle your wheel when you puncture the Tyre, no amount of foam can fix that! But then again is £175 for a spare wheel cheaper than your break down cover? This would need to weighed up against how long you keep your car if you see what I mean? Cheers Steve

You can fit a Helicoil to the sump...find a garage that has the kit for this or it is available to buy at Engineering supply stores as a kit (tap and Helicoil)

Another stripped thread Will? Perhaps your mechanic should stick to tractors. <g> I agree with others that forcing on oversized bolt, (even one that has been grooved with a flute or two,) into the hole is a bodge more suited to your mechanic, and would in any case push swarf into the sump, but unlike Gareth I would happily use a proper tap. However to do the job I would want the sump removed and mounted on a drill or mill table to get the correct angle, then cleaned thoroughly of swarf before fitting to the engine. I doubt that would be easier or even necessarily cheaper than buying a secondhand sump from a breakers yard.

Hi Rob, iv found this on youtube. Apologies it's American but it may help Iv also found this website with some info that might help http://www.jltechno.com/en/alignment_specs.php?brand=AUDI(EUR)&ModelName=A7,(PR=1BS),HD+A/S&ModelID=105255 Cheers :) Steve

Hi Phil welcome to the forum :) You'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch :) For me something doesn't sound quite right. I'm questioning whether start stop should even kick in when the car is still in motion? And it failing to reengage is clearly an issue. Am i right in thinking that when you go to pull away and accelerate (try to) the hill hold disengages and the engine does not start? If so I would say there is something clearly wrong and the car should go back to Audi. I suspect they have only had the car a day? If so they may need it longer (5 days?) So that it can be road tested alot more by them. Keep us posted on how you get on. Cheers Steve

Lol yeah the combo isn't too good on neither pallet or stomach lol 😁

Here how to dissasemble a mirrior. Its from tt but it will be the same in your Check with audi for the part price or https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Audi-A3-LED-Wing-Mirror-Indicator-Repeater-Right-Driver-off-Side-O-s/1051619367

Thank you very much steve and gareth, i will get in touch with these contacts.

Could be the combination of the auto box and the diesel engine. Mine’s a petrol.

Hello Will, Sorry to hear of your problem, but you are at least lucky that the oil has remained in the sump. Would I try using an oversize bolt to cut a 'new' thread in this critical application? No, I wouldn't. Would I use a genuine thread tap to cut a new thread? Again no, since a good quality new tap would be fairly expensive to buy, you wouldn't have any guarantee of tapping it at right angles to the plug face (with the possibility of having weeps), and you would likely to be able to guarantee you are going to get swarf in the sump! Sorry Will, but your action would be a classic from the Bodge-it and Leg-it handbook, and is likely to stand a risk of depositing 5litres of oil on the highway. Solution:- Buy a new aftermarket sump. Available from Europarts and others? Now that's a proper job. Kind regards, Gareth.

I can't either...but where do I sign?

HIya Jay I currently use a 'Blackvue' which covers both front and back and have no problems, I used the services of a Guy in Cranleigh, Surrey to wire mine in very discreetly and they both operate on ignition. if interested I'll give you there details. David of Guildford

Hi Hugo, Just out of curiosity when you checked the front pads did you take them out to inspect them? The reason I ask is that the ware indicator will come on while there is what you would think is still significant material left on the pads. The only way to tell is to take the pads out and if there worn down enough you'll see the indicator contacts in the suface of the pad. Another possibility could be that the contact is severly corroded or the wire can sometimes snap right next to the caliper. I may be wrong but it's possible your number plate warning light may actually be related to the brake ware warning! (Did they happen to occur at the same time?). I've come accross strange issues like this before! Like on both my old 2003 A3 and A4 you could have the glow plug warning light come on for a rear brake light out, figure that one out! Apparently some warning systems can be on the same electrical circuit. So if you haven't already I say it'll be worth taking out the front pads to phyically inspect them. Hope this helps.

Hi Hugo There is no sensors on the back

I think you have answered your own question Patrick. If you are happy to take your freiend's advice, and he is happy with the repairers, then that must be fine with you I guess.

Hello Patrick, Very sorry to hear about this. Life is strange and levelling at times. You are having good fortune regarding minimum outlay to get the mechanical bits done, then you find yourself in a situation of having to pay for something which was certainly not your fault. ".... u think it will be OK after repair?? OK in what respect Patrick? Structurally, it's minor damage, so problem there. If you are questioning the quality of the repair, then I would think it highly unlikely that anyone on here would be able to answer that unless someone happens to have experience of the particular body shop you are going to use -around Margate? As much as £500 is, I would have thought that this price is certainly not expensive in relation to the work and materials involved - I would be surprised if they don't end up spraying the whole side of the car. As I see it, what is important to you is the standard of the repair, so it would probably be more helpful if you posted a new thread with a title "Anyone know of a good body shop in the Margate area?" It is often useful to visit the used car sales sites in your area and ask them for recommendations on good body shops. These chaps know who is good and not so good and who are competitive. I would advise that you take this somewhere where you have had recommendations from someone else with regard to the quality of their repairs. Good luck, Gareth.