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Hello, I am a new member from Dublin. While I have driven Audi rentals in the past, I have put a deposit down on a 2020 Audi A3 Sportback, which I believe is a Japanese import. I've been going through the forums and hoping not to ask same old questions that may have been answered in the past. Thanks, A

WIll start the online research and let you know once I have a solution. Just wathcing a youtube video of a guy doing it through obdeleven, and will give it a go myself tomorrow and see how it goes. Thanks

You don't need a remap just re-pinning for headlights on the can-bus

No problems Sebastian, Halfords wouldn't have a clue where to start, you would be better speaking to an indi VAG specialist, they may know what to do, or an ECU remap company

You need to be able to find which wires go to which pin on the ecu, there are some specialists who can do it for you (which I would recommend doing) as they know what has to go where and how to do it, I don't know about OBD11, never used it but have heard some good reviews on it

this issue ended up to be a failed clutch slave cylinder leaking inside the gearbox, gearbox off, clean like hell and clean some more and replace the part. sadly it would be ver hard to inspect this issue with the gearbox on 😕

Hi you mentioned yours is auto yes it has a DMF and yes you can get the mechatronics unit refurbished for not to much money at ECU testing.

Gareth, Thank you for your reply, much appreciated. Last oil change was in June 2023 at 19,000 miles. I have taken your comments onboard and will do a bit more research with my 'non main dealer' to see if he is capable of accessing the VAG system. Regards Alun

Hello Alan, Could you let us know when the oil was last changed? In terms of getting this done away from the main dealer:- You can, if the garage is VAT registered, genuine, or acceptable parts are used, and ideally, the garage is capable of recording this service information onto the VAG computerised service system. It is unlikely that an ‘ordinary’ garage would have access to this system, but a VAG independent probably would - so that maybe an alternative. Most garages should be able to reset the ‘Service due’ alert. Kind regards, Gareth.

welcome to the forum AB regards stephen😁

A first place to start would be to see the condition of your battery. Also, is this a problem you see?

For the record too it won't regenerate (clean out the DPF) if the car doesn't think it is warm - a lot of stars must align for that to happen and engine temperature is one of them at least according to VW bulletins which have above either 50°C (stationary forced regen) or 70°C driven with the particulate load below 40 grams above 40mph and 2000 rpm in top gear. There are measurement blocks visible in a diagnostic tool that will indicate what the car thinks the temperature is vs the instrument cluster display. You need to get a number of measurables checked - water temperature is one, the current DPF ash level, particulate load and differential pressure are others - though if clogged it should set a check light your mechanic hopefully knew enough to look for this stuff. The diesels need at least an hour I believe above 2000rpm or a forced regen, a 38 mile trip around town won't cut it for sure - I really don't know what the star alignment needs to be for Audi but I doubt it is massively different to the 2013 2.0 Passat we have. If the regeneration cycles are occuring then the DPF should be fine, but if they aren't then for sure it is when not if that DPF chokes and a DPF can make a diesel run really poorly. You may want to ask your mechanic to check the intake also, our Passat needs all the crud from the EGR cleaning out at least every two years, first sign of this is usually an intake air flap intermittent fault. Diesels for short around town stuff are a liability but they never tell people this when they sell them, if all that you do is short around town stuff do yourself a favour and get out of the diesel into a petrol.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

Cracked it! Stupidly I was overlooking the fact that multiple modules were reporting 0 volts at terminal 15 when the ingnition was switched ON (which is pretty obvious if I looked at the VCDS logs properly). Terminal 15 relay 2 (under the steering column dash panel) must’ve got stuck which was preventing it from closing and giving ingnition power. I removed and tested the relay on the bench and it worked 100 times out of 100. I will order a new one so that I have a spare on hand. Moral of the story, read the damn VCDS logs fully!!! Hopefully this helps someone else out in future!

Hi sorry to be the bearer of bad tidings but it does rather look as though it may well be Arson, I have driven over a million miles in twenty years and only ever seen two cabs spontaneously combust but those were moving at the time, in thirty years plus of working on cars I have never seen a car thats standing for a couple of days flame up, chocolate bars melting on the seats during the summer, dash cams cooked but this is new and sounds like its had a healthy dose of accelerant, I wish you luck. Steve.

Hi here are the pics of my box out, the driveshaft seal goes in hole in the gearbox diff housing I also included a picture of the reciprocating part of the diff, the exploded diagram shows the other possible contender marked in yellow that fits between radius shaft and the inner bore of the slave cylinder, the pressure plate and driven plate are industrial quality with regard too gripping there are only three things that cause slip, clutch master, contamination or just good old wear

Hi its the clutch master cylinder holding off, I had it on my car they are Cr@p plastic thing and the seals swell if the brake fluid is a bit past its change date, mine went about 3 months after I had my clutch changed the reason the symptoms are random is because it is all regulated by the torque bite depending which gear you are in say 3rd at 1500 rpm as soon as you push the throttle as the torque increases the the thing will briefly slip then grip, do that for too long and it does wonders for the driven plate wear, quite a bit of stripping down under the plastic scuttle to get at the cylinder and about two hours graft in all, did mine and used an O.E. cylinder from TPS as my mechanic told me the Febi units were failing quite frequently, bled everything with fresh fluid and not had a problem since, BTW Ford are having a real problem with this with Transits and now insist you change the clutch master when you put in a new clutch.

Morning all.... so, to update all to my recent issues, I am now happy to say I have my car back and shes running perfectly 🥰 All in all its cost me approx £2250 which im not happy about but "aye ho" it had to be done. The bitter pill to swallow was it went to three garages and the £700 bill from the first garage could of been avoided so please make sure you do youre research on garages before hand... Changes to car: 1st garage - timing belt, waterpump camshaft pully seal - £720 2nd garage - dpf removal, economy remap with dpf delete, ad blue delete - £350 3rd garage - Turbo replacement (I sourced for £200), egr cooler replacement (I sourced for £40), egr clean, 16 crank arms, new oil filter, new air filter, new oil, new breather pipe - £900 (price is high, but this version of audi has the most awkward engine, making it hard to work on) £40 - tow recovery charge Before I conclude this thread, I have a few more questions. 1. Should I have the swirl flaps deleted (programmed to stay open all the time)? And what are the benefits of this? (Dpf specialist recommended this) 2. Should I get the power remap which would take it from 190bhp to 240bhp