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Sorry lads - it was my first post and I couldn't edit it. I hope next one will be better 😉 I am not sure at the moment I explained it correctly. The best way is to go to the car and check: If everything is OK and foglights are off FOUR brake lights bulbs are activated while braking. When fog lights are on ONLY TWO brake light bulbs are activated. And imagine the situation: two brake lights are broken (bulbs blown) and two are disconnected (because fog lights are on) You have no brake lights on the back. Regards - Peter

Steve, I could see all of Piotr's message by scrolling left. Not that it matters because Kelly has not bothered to respond to the thread.

93k miles, two previous owners, FSH. Usual S Line features including parking sensors front and rear, heated electric seats, cruise control. Extras include Xenon headlights, Apple Car Play, Bang & Olufsen sound. Recent expenditure includes new battery, suspension arms, injectors and fuel pump. FSH with last service Aug 2023. Michelin Cross Climate tyres all round. Located in Devon £6995 Tel 01404 871699

Hi its probably a built in function as most oils only give maximum protection when at optimum temp, some of the new Bentlys, Alfa Romeos and Feraris have stickers in the car telling you to warm the engine at idle for at least ten mins before driving, I would get that drive system light checked its yellow so not urgent but the gearbox has nothing to do with the engine temp, in saying that the oldest saying in the car world is NEVER REV A COLD ENGINE, thats because of the damage it causes to internal revolving surfaces which have yet to heat up to operating tollerences, cold oil at high rpm is as bad as no oil only in reverse, I found that out a few years ago in the eighties when at massive cost I built a go faster Mini engine, billet steel crank lightened con rods, super Hepolite pistons the works, my only downfall was jacking the oil pressure relief valve so it ran at 95psi when warm, two months later I had big end knock where the oil cold ran at over 100psi and had washed the coating off of the end shells, moral of the story most cars are quite happy with oil pressure of around 40psi as long as the oil temp is at optimum. Steve.

Hi you should never put a kink in any part of the washer pipe as this will cause all sorts of problems the pipes are routed with gentle bends and you will never lose pressure because both circuits from the pump have anti drain-back valves so when the pump is not being used the valves shut to maintain the pressure, example, last summer one of my cab colleagues could only get his washers to work at the front with the bonnet up, turns out he had replaced all the feed tubes with silicone hoses but forgotten to do each section against the old pipe so the one that went to the tank was about 10mm to short and kinked when he closed the bonnet, thats how critical it is.

If I remember correctly both washers are supplied by the same pump, so I suspect the pipe to the rear has not been plugged and pressure is being lost that way.