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From the admin team we would like to wish a Happy New Year to all our members 🎉✨🎊 Thank you for your ongoing support and contributions over the last year, it's greatly appreciated 😊 May your 2025 be prosperous happy and healthy!!

I'll look forward to seeing pics of it out on the road 🙂

Happy new year all, well iv kept the audi can't sell her she too nice, took her for a m.o.t and she failed on a stering arm bush it had a split in it, don't ask why but I didn't tighten 2 wheel nuts properly 🤷‍♂️, rear plate light went off, esp light but that needs calibration done, so got new plates for her to go on

You definitely need deep pockets to run a q7. Happy new year 🎊 🙂

Currently running a Golf R. Having issues with headlights. Think I'll keep it lol. Seems minor compared to the Q7. Maybe go back to when cars were easy to maintain.

Hi its a factory setting which only can be changed by the dealer, they wont do it as it wont comply with European law, the cars you buy in Europe have this feature but theirs actually slow the car down when the thing starts beeping, the only reason we dont get that feature as well is because we are not in the European Union, everyone else just gets what have the annoying beep, I have no doubt soon some clever guy on YouTube will have found a way to program it out. Steve.

mine is only a b8 2011 diesel manual.i have currently 205,000 miles on the clock and still going strong.had to have the clutch done recently but thats normal wear and tear.i change the oil and filter regular.never had a problem with the turbo since owning it for 5 years.regards stephen

As mentioned, history is key, but turbos can fail regardless. Failed on my 2012 A4 Allroad under 70k miles. That car was well-cared for, with oil and filter changes every 8-10k miles. The actuator potentially failed can be tested with vacuum), it can be purchased separately, but in order to set up with the turbo it needs to be balanced on a bench with specialist tools. Easier just to replace the turbo and actuator as one unit. On the 2.0TDI (177PS) which is Garrett unit, then you can buy new rather than reconditioned unit from turbo-diesel.co.uk You can pick up turbo for around £600. Audi will charge you double that just for the same part plus labour. I stripped the turbo down and there was carbon build-up, and one of the vanes on the turbine was damaged so I opted to swap it out. Importantly the oil feed line needs to be renewed too. If not you run the risk of a leak. You need to factor in an oil and filter change as a matter of course. There are plenty diesel B8 Avants on the market. My suggestion, narrow your list down on extras as it’s expensive to retro-fit, colour of course, and mileage. Last B8.5 would have been around 2015, so set your budget accordingly.

Happy New Year to you John. Kind regards, Gareth.

True think it was the drive down the m.o.t Station that made the decision, ordered the 2 wishbone arms as I'll change both, jobs for today will change the plates over, and put the dash camera on

Happy new year 🎊🎉🥳 Glad you decided to keep it 🙂 would have been a shame you getting rid of it after all the hard work you'd put in. At least the fail sheet is minor 🙂

Good man. I wish others were as obliging as you.

Not been on for a while, so engine now done sounds lovely just headlights to put on changed the interior and gearstick knob and gator, still got the rear lights and front and rear discs too do with front and rear dust shield

Hi as per my conversation with the tec he reckons that VAG changed their seal compound back in 2010 as they were getting too many warranty issues, the seals are a mixed compound using Neoprene to aid longevity but this is prone to a reaction with the other types of fluid on the market which is why they always demand you use manufacturer brake fluid, it wont cause the degradation, I did think at first that I was the only victim of this but then my daughters Q3 had the same problem within a year of having a new clutch both clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder were knackered, had a chat with the garage that had fitted the clutch and just slipped in what brake fluid do they use and they showed me a bottle of silver hook fluid, just about the cheapest universal yo can buy, got it back to mine and changed the master and slave cylinders, no small effort at my age even with the aid of the son in law, we bled the brake circuits as well with ESP4 and touch wood no problems for the last six months, gravity bleed in g is the best method once you have a pedal allow it to settle and just crack the slave cylinder bleed off with no pedal pressure and watch all the little bubbles come out they tend to congregate in the slave cylinder and then as air rises try and go back up the pipe towards the reservoir, I also got caught out by the radial seal in the slave cylinder and had gear oil leaking out of the bell housing which contaminated the driven plate so I had to buy a new plate Driven and Pressure, their other favourite leak is engine oil from the seal behind the ring gear, rear crank seal and thats a real mission as it has the crank sensor pick up attached to it. Steve.