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They can code and retrofit. Other members have used them and been happy with the results

It'll need to be coded. I'd recommend you speak to autologics or Audi retrofits to give you an idea of costs of retrofitting.

So far I think it is good value. Superficially in great condition but in places it reminds me it is soon to be 37 years old. I love detail so I’ll be attending to all the areas that show its age so it bears closer inspection and doesn’t show its age. 12 owners and many years of variable skill repairs (let’s be honest, some bodging) will need care to put right but that’s what I enjoy.

Hello Wayne, I too would want to eliminate the battery as being the culprit, but to charge you £51 to check it is extortionate, and I certainly would be returning to them to check it again. If it were mine, I would take to a Halford’s store and ask them to test it for you. They usually do this FOC. If it does test as below par, then it would generally be to your advantage not to buy one from there, but to come back to us for some recommendations of what brands to buy, and where to buy at competitive prices. Kind regards, Gareth.

5 years is kind of average for a battery. That said cars now are very susceptible to weak or worn batteries and your dash will light up like a Christmas tree. Especially with start/stop, air conditioning, heated seats, etc. Better to replace than risk being stranded. Cold weather adds another factor so cold cranking amps are reduced and you’ll find the car may not have the power to start it. You can check with a multimeter at cold before a run. I’d expect 12.6v or so. At running, this can go up to 14.7v, but that’s important because it shows how it’s handling load. Most modern batteries are AGM, so I assume that’s what has been fitted as it handles start stop.

Thankyou. That's helpful info.

Just the Haynes manual for the Audi 80 that also covers the GT Coupé variations

Hi, I'm new to this site. I have had problems with my DPF for 4 months, no DPF warning light just engine warning light and flashing coil which put me into limp mode. I was told on 3 occasions that the filter was blocked and couldn't carry out a regen. I took it to Lookers in Guildford (Audi) they had it for a day (£800), they said that they tried 2 times to regen,they couldn't do it so said the only option was a new DPF (£3500). The cars only worth £5000. I booked it in for a DPF clean but while I waiting for the date to arrive I tried a regen with my £220 diagnostic tool (Launch).........It worked, cleared engine light and coil back to full power. It's been a week now. It's only done 85000 miles but I only drive short trips but now I'm doing a longer trip a once a week and using DPF cleaner/Regenerator. I will say that the car worked well just in limp mode. I hope this may help others having the same problem.

Well, first off happy new year to everyone. Hope Christmas was good. For the sake of tidying up this thread with a conclusion, I've since gone ahead with the brake line repair. I cut the steel line just past the corroded end section, chamfered and reamed the end of the line, made it all neat and tidy, threaded on a union nut and flared the line. Corroded section of steel brake line has now been replaced with a new piece of cupronickel line with a flared union to the steel one. To the end of that I've replaced the old flexi hose with a new Brembo one. The bracket itself was solid, it has a quick tidy up but I may return to that and give it some better protection. Brakes re-bled to finish off. So far no leaks at the union, no fluid loss from the reservoir and more importantly no hot wheel or smell of brake pads. It's early days so I won't say problem solved yet. A short motorway run to my nearest services will give me a better idea. But so far, so good.

You have not answered the question, which was " what brand is it, and ideally where did you buy it?"

If you want to replace this before putting it into Audi for a service the following should be correct for the varies b9 variants . We replace a lot when repairing rear damaged vehicles, there often installed to soon after cavity wax is injected into the tailgate or boot when new and it seals them.